"Make sure they come with full warranty"

Why wouldn't it? Its a green VIP (frame only) frame, so its not going to be split from a full bike?
Even if it somehow didn't have a commencal warranty (how long is that?), it'd still be covered by merlin under retail warranty

If you want something to put you off, they weigh 7.3lbs, if thats something you might be picky about?

The Super 4 is just as cheap too though

EDIT: Jeez, they're also doing a meta 6 frame for £688.50 INCLUDING a Crank Bros Joplin R (the remote one?)

I never notice mine. Often wear them through summer just in case I have to push through a bog or something

Try Merlin cycles

I've seen the HAMWG NV (as linked), but at 18L is a tad big for when I'm not riding all day. The price is a little high too, though £75 from merlin is bearable

"Narrowed it down to either a 575 or an orange 5"
Out of interest, how did you manage that? They're a bit different from one another (apart from taking the same fork travel, having very similar rear travel, both being single pivot). The yeti being getting on almost twice the price too frame only

"TBH I think we should stop ****ing about and build a couple of modern nuclear plants, to tide us over til we have a better idea"

Plus a few big tidal barrages should do it

"How does it differ from a P7 ?"

P7 is recommended for 140mm fork and 631, R8 is 100mm and 853

"Will i get a credit for next order if i complain? "

Send them back, they're not what you ordered, they should (by law) refund your postage

"if you ride in winter that much why aren't you using … a singlespeed?!"
Because (wheel) spinning in granny gear is far easier up a steep sloppy climb than singlespeeding up it?

"where do you fit them on the cable run as you get a pack of three"
If you've not got full length outer, eg most HTs, then put one in each of the 3 sections of outer cable
If running full length outer cables then I've got one in the front mech cable and 2 in the rear mech cable
I positioned mine such that when I turn the handlebars the front and rear mech outer cables no longer touch the frame. Instead the rubber O-ring of the cable-oiler touches the frame so they make a great frame protector/bump stop for the outer cables if positioned right

"don't see the point on running them and full length cables… where is the mud going to get in?"
Mud gets in the rear mech end eventually. Used to take about 3 months for me before decent shifting went completely to pot. Once you get mud in a full length outer it seems to bung up far worse non full length outer
The cable oilers mean you can use WD40/GT85/etc to push all the mud/grit/wet out and relube your cables. I only do it when the shofting starts to become ropey (blocking up), and every time the shifting returns to being really light and easy

"the oilers are much cheaper than fancy sealed cables"
Yep. £6 for oilers + cheap cables plus cheap full length outer cable is way less than avid/gore/XTR sealed cable sets

"is it the 4mm ones for shimano gear cable? "
Yes, though some outer cable is too fat to fit. eg the Jagwire full outer that comes supplied on some Specialized bikes

" you can wrestle with the little fiddly O-ring"
I can roll them back with my fingers just fine

"WD-40 runs outside the cable outer and drips straight on to the carpet"
You thought using WD40 indoors (over carpet) was a good idea?

"so are they worth it or not"
Yes, go for it

One final thing, you'll need to use standard outer cable ends (ones that don't have elongated cable hugging tubes on the ends of them to allow WD40/GT85 to push muck out of the cables

EDIT: and another, thats a ridiculously long post. I apologise

"is DN6 a type of tubing? ive never heard any one else quote it thats all? "

DN6 is the part of the post code of the warehouse, see here

Anyone know how to distinguish which ones are for 100-130mm, 80-100, 63-80mm forks? (I know different generations fall into rough fork reccomendations, but not exactly)

The car horn is ace

Shame its so untidy and heavy though

Currently 30mm below (with a 40mm stack stem, so 35mm with another 35mm stack stem) though I now wish I hadn't chopped it so short as I'm having to run a 25 degree 110mm stem to get the bars level with the saddle at pedalling height

Thats a bit cr*p

Thanks for educating me anyhoo

So the sprockets are part of the freehub then?

I can't get the link to work

this one then to get the freehub off?

How do I get the casette off then? Does the casette slide off the back of the removed freehub?

Coil Pikes for under £300 from eg CRC*?

*Can you use CRC for B2W?

"I bet that would pretty much spring back once he takes the weight off it!"

It looks like the rim has unpinned itself or snapped though

"surprised you can steer at all with a 100mm stem on it, the 5 now has a pretty slack head angle, its not an XC race bike. I run a 65mm stem on mine"

Surely a shorter stem would put even less weight onto the front wheel?
Aren't stems on XC race bikes more like 120mm?

"Got 3.5-4cm of spacers below the steerer.
Thats quite a lot, maybe too much… "
Unless he's tall(ish)?

"(Zesty 324),"

Lapierre do a 240mm travel Zesty?!

Firstly, what tyres are you running, and whats the biggest (eg alps) and smallest (eg mud) tyres you would like to be able to run well on them?
Also do you want to run tubeless only, tubes only or are you running tubes but want to be able to run a 'proper' tubeless system in future

Something like a Mavic XM719 disc is light but strong (460g) but only 19mm wide, wheras a DT Swiss EX5.1D is 500g but a lot wider at 28mm (but still a 'tube only' rim)

"to discourage lazy cyclists from inundating them with "can you fix my puncture" begs "

I'd bet it was simply because they seem to be able to get people to pay it. So why not?

"Maxxis High Roller (F) and Larsen TT (R) both 2.35 SPC Maxxpro 60a
Kenda Blue Groove (F) and Nevegal (R) both 2.35 DTC"

Bear in mind that a 2.35" High Roller is only ever so slightly bigger than a 2.1" Kenda Nevegal
You'd need roughly a 2.5" High Roller to get to 2.35" Nevegal volume, and it'd (the HR) probably still be smaller (I've not seen both together to compare)

Also it'd be well worth getting a folding 2.35" 60a High Roller over a single ply wire one as its 100-150g lighter
(also theres a single ply wire 2.5" 60a but no folding version)

With a boot lid/tow ball mounted rack I reckon It ought to be doable

Fold one rear seat down and try to get two frames alongside (with wheels/seatposts removed). I've done it in a laguna hatchback
Then Two (complete bikes) on the back perhaps with 2 wheels from one of the inside bikes
Luggage plus 2 wheels in the remaining boots space

Else 3 complete bikes on a rack and one frame/fork on the one folded down seat?

Hmm, maybe my subtle link was too .. subtle?

I assume you mean flat pedals?
Why M520s in particular to represent 'clipless' pedals?

I use M520s on my MTBs. Other cageless shimano pedals are lighter but the bodies do wear out so I'm not really prepared to spend loads on them. For £20 including a new set of cleats they're not really too bad

I like how my shins aren't full of holes too

Theres very little to ride round Durham. The best stuff locally is Chopwell, Hamsterley and so on

He said he wanted black

"Truvative triple Firex at the mo, want something a bit better"

How about Truvativ Stylo 2.2 then? 25g lighter than your firex's, 85g lighter than SLX double-bash. You'll have to hunt them down from elsewhere though (merlin is out of stock)

Else if you've already got a (black) bashguard buy a nicer triple something else? Like a Truvativ Stylo Team Triple

Giant used to do one

Was for a 164mm rotor (standard caliper went straight onto a 160mm IS fork normally so the caliper was the +4mm bit

So it should let you run a 160mm rotor, post mount fork (are lyriks 160mm direct fit? (or 203mm direct fit?) and standard caliper
Whether or not it will fit around a shimano caliper I don't know but Giant MPH-3 calipers are pretty big

I never bought one but when I was considering a post mount fork I asked my LBS (JeJames Rotherham) 2 years ago they had them in stock. Ring round some Giant dealers and see if they've got nay left (The MPH brake isn't made any more)

Hope (and others) do a +40mm adapter if needed

Thats great, I like the camera position just being able to see the wheel but loads of whats ahead. Seeing the brakes on/off adds to it on that really well I reckon

Where is the bit after the 'beast' where you appear to knock the camera over?

My fattest ones work with V-brakes
Take the bike in question in and ask them which ones will fit.

A few tips (I haven't read a lot of this thread)

Have you tried letting somebody else (who has experience changing avid pads) have a go?

Have you still got the metal pad retention spring thing (on the back of the caliper) attached? If so, ditch it, you don't need it, it just gets in the way [unless you try to run without a spring between the pads or the tab on the piston has snapped off]

Get a flat blade screwdriver and keep pushing the pads back. The levers should have an overflow in the cap (mine do) to release excess fluid. If its blocked, then when you really try to push the pads back fluid will come out of the seal all the way around the lever 'top' cap

My fat grips are more comfortable? (I have XXL size hands apparantly though, going by my golves that is)

"most agricultural bike .. has to work, it has to look like a tractor"

Eh?
Tractors are just as (if not more) unreliable than say, cars
How does a bike hope to look like a tractor then? Surely its just knobbly tyres?

Tractor:

Bike:
See Above/Below this post
(I think my pictured bikes are too sculpted)

I'm not keen on it being sped up and twitchy as it is. It doesn't make the descents look to flow much or convey how long it seems to take to open all the bloody gates

Have you not read the latest issue of singletrack? I thought the grouptest in there pretty much wrapped it up?

Trackstands are useful if you use flats, in which case you lack any skills anyway and your views are meaningless

EDIT: Joking

"someone with a decent bike had some skills to go with it. all the gear no idea indeed."

You're basing this on just one skill which is arguably not neccessary to go MTBing though?

I imagine a remedy would shine on faster rougher trails too and maybe they like to crash through everything (perhaps more fun than riding around everything), not just slow-techy trails where trackstanding could come in useful

"this guy has a 160mm full suss"
150mm full suss isn't it? (with 160mm forks)

"trackstanding is a more important 'on-trail' skill than either of those two"
I agree, but i don't think its neccessary/basic skill to be able to MTB.

I'd include the black bits at whinlatter for a start

Laggan Black, Kirroughtree McMoab, Black bits at Dalbaettie, Golspie Black and upper sections of the Red, Later sections of Penmachno, Innerliethen Minch Moor, The Black section on Cli-mach X, Final DH of Cwm Carn XC, Upper and Middle sections of Dunkeld DH track, Stainburn, wooden sections at grizedale (have to be permentantly frozen somehow), the rooty up/over bit at Hamsterley, Dalby Black, Kielder Black, Newcastleton Red, Final section of Ae somehow mixed together with loads more I haven't ridden ..

"3500€ and he can't trackstand….."
Your point?

People buy ferraris and porsches but can't powerslide* them?

A Remedy is supposed to be an allround MTB, not a trailsbike so why should someone who buys one 'have' to be able to do something not neccessary to ride an MTB?

*both balancing skills of sorts?