Smorgasbords with bar ends?
Thomson post in an aluminium frame?

Maybe, depends on where you mean by the bombhole?

That sounds like the section I was thinking of, thanks

Forgot about patio doors, they nearly always open outward?
But they’re only intended to be used when its not windy rainy or snowy?

Rose have them from £1.26 each
Granted theres £7.60 P&P on top of that but if you’re after a load and/or a load of shimano/other stuff then it might be worthwhile

Having run an FSA 32-34T with a 32t chainring, Im not a big fan of bashes bigger than chainrings, a 4t difference would look ridiculous imo
I think you’ll struggle to find a 30t one, so a 32t (not a 32-34t) will be your best bet. I think the reaceface one is flush with a 32t, and so is the on-one one at £10 posted
You could always hide the on-one logo behind your crankarm if you feel the need

You forgot Muddy Marys and Halo’s Mary bike

Its all about mary

or KSi950 if you can still find one. I saw one (the 150mm one) showing in stock the other say in 30.9mm

Is the black north shore still standing at Newcastleton? I know the reds not that technical but its not terrible, just short

As far as 2.1″ tyres go, fire XCs are sensibly* about as small as you’ll find a 2.1″ and an advantage 2.1″ about as big as you’ll sensibly* find. imo there’s a fair bit between them

as far as I remember a fire XC is nearly as small as a high roller (XC) 2.1″ and the advantage nearly as big (mostly the tread is lower) than a 2.35″ high roller mk1 for eg

mudhugger ftw:

I drop the dropper into the frame so a seatpost mounted mudguard is a no for me
With the seattube being so low down, the 29er version would work better on that bike though, a few splashes do get past, but nothing to get your shorts wet

Which coast to coast route?

St.Bees-Robin Hoods Bay through lakes,dales and moors is quite different to Whitehaven to Sunderland/Newcastle MTBing vs. back roads and surfaced railway tracks

You might not need any tread at all, or just a dry condition XC race tyre

“Cassette is an SLX “
Its not. Its Deore
SLX is HG81, and biggest 3 on a carrier, about 25g heavier than XT

Oooh, wire bead tyres ….

whats e2?

My brother has been running a 2x10spd XT front mech for a while now with a 2×9 setup without problems, just doesn’t use stupid gear combinations like small-small.
afaik the cable pull is the same?
I assume a 10spd cage is just a fraction narrower?

Last time I got some a few months ago, got a set of silver ones from evans posted for £5

afaik 55CR’s will save you a load of damping internals too. But won’t save you any weight

a 60a Minion DHF wouldn’t be a bad start for a middleground

I’d guess black chilli continental or something else about £50 will get recomended

“Cwmcarn is ONE word, i have no idea why people split it into two”
the ordnance survey have?
The town appears as one word, up the valley where the trailhead is appears as two words?

in the woods behind the nationwide surely?

Semi-retired in an XC build given I’ve found 2 cracks in it

Since swapped to slightly wider bars, slightly shorter stem and some other bits

maybe useful: 30/41 = 0.732, 30/42 = 0.714
So about 1.5teeth difference, around 3/8 to 1/4 of a gear in it at that end of the cassette. Less than half a gear difference

“you tell me if all of it in the video is footpath or is any of it bridleway? “
None of it is a public footpath
Its on open access land, but that only applies to walkers

the last bit is legal on a bike, but is legally accessed by the other half its of length

The best bit is massively cut up as numpties have staightlined all the tight corners anyway. then the very last bit has been wrecked by groundwork for I think telegraph poles or something
And then iirc* the traversy bits have been boggyied up by motorbikes
*maybe im making this up, but I half remember it being right?

what slowoldman said
The quality or complete and utter lack of of the ‘repair’ work (dumping of road planings) is a disgrace imo
Across from frogatt past stoney middleton, eyam and across that hillside most of the bridleways seem to have been subjected to the same fate. Dump a load of same grade plannings down the steep sloped track and hope for the best it would seem. Result ends up as the rain gauging a deep zig zagging rut down the path, the rest of the surface gets more lose as you descend. Then right at the bottom all that the rain has washed down gets swept on further down the road below

Loose rutted and dangerous for all users. Great job

ruts like this zig zagging its way through all the loose piling up of planings:

Yep, the price

I’m assuming here that Hope Hoops are still on the go with other peoples (ie stans) rims, iirc theyd be closer to £300 than the £400 above?

But otherwise exactly the same build as I’d go for, so long as the rear Hope Evo, is the (brand?) new 40point pickup one, not the first Evo 24point freehub

except that your current worn chainrings will cause your new 10spd chain to wear into the worn chainring, causing the new 10spd cassette to wear to the newly worn chain

Road from Buttermere over to Newlands isn’t that bad really. The only trouble is unless you go cheeky its road own the other side, then push up on cat bells and down the other side to grange, though the switchbacky steppy bits near the top are pretty tricky going
Cross the river at grange, nip off the road briefly past Bowder Stone, carry on the road through Rosthwaite onto Seatoller and up Honister (opening sections aren’t great but it eases off as you climb)
At the top head up through the quarry and up and over the bridleway into Wharnscale bottom. This has plenty of very testing sections too though.
If the visibility is bad, it may well be easier to navigate by cutting actross to the old tramway once you’re on the tops as the main track disappears into the piles of slate spoil

it would seem in bike terms 4inches is 100mm

How many bikes are claimed to be 6 inches travel but turn out they’re 150mm not 152mm?

Mine stopped staying down. Think I got a quote (was out of warranty) from superstar to fix that bit, but because I also asked how much all the wearing parts would cost too because the slop was ridiculous by that point), the total figure put me off restoring the post. Its sat in my scrap spares box still. Put the money well on the way toward an i950 150mm. So far its lasting better though the i900 I had was the very first gen, with the poor sealing

“use a shim to fit to 31.6”
Yep, then you’ve all the 30.9mm options to go for too, ie giant contact switch and spesh (going to be pricey) are I think 30.9mm only
Also, if you buy a 30.9mm post (of any type) then if you swap frames in the future and get something in 30.9mm, you won’t have to buy a new droppr post

Winstanleys sell the USE 30.9mm-31.6mm shim if you’re looking for one

“I run a 34t single ring on my 26″ orange. What would be the equivalent size ring for a 29er”

30t I should think
with singlespeed people always say 32:16 on a 26″ is the same (or about) as 32:18 on a 29er, a ratio change of 8:9, so similar to a 36t chainring to a 32t. so 34 to 30t seems about right to me

obviously as alluded to above, it depends on what tyres

It depends on how compact or leggy your current frame fits you.
Also on how broad your shoulders are?
If you go too wide your arms may be so outstretched that you can’t push against the bars to stop you going over them

You’ve 2 (or 3) reasons to go shorter when going wider (or vice versa)
1 – Wider bars ‘splay’ your arms out that bit further, forcing your body that little bit further forward/down*, a shorter stem sets you back again, by quite how much you need to remain as you were I don’t know, it’ll depend partly on your body dimensions
2 – A wider bar will have a slower steering response, ie you have to move your arms further to make the wheel move the same angle. A shorter stem will offset this, less arm movement for the same steering angle with a shorter stem, the ratio again I don’t know, but the maths won’t be too taxing to work out the ratio’s between the width/length changes
3 – a wider bar is typically built that much beefier toward the middle to keep the stiffness, so it’ll weigh more, a shorter stem (unless its beefier than the longer one) will weigh less …

*dragging your body downward, you may well want to raise your stem and/or bars to try replicating your previous body position

I’m currently on a 50mm stem and 777mm bars, was previously on a 70mm stem with 710mm’s on a 10mm shorter frame. on another frame was on 85mm and 710mm, 90 or 105 with 685

s/h Cotic hemlock would work

also, any frame with a 44mm headtube, 44mm at both ends and all the way through
see here[/url]

+1
Ordered 26″ 1.95-2.125″ Geax MTB ultralite, instead get* boggo 700c DURO tube that weighs loads
*at least I think that’s what I got, would need to double check in the garage to be sure

Ordered mid-decemeber, not got round to doing anything about it

I think I’d try hone what sort of travel/angles/general level of gnarness you want, you might need to ride a few
An Anthem as I understood is very much at the XCrace end of the spectrum, whereas the horsethief is more like the other end of the trail spectrum erring toward allmountain/endure
Of course confusingly I’d reckon both would suit Cannock/llandegla etc, just giving differing emphasis’ to out and out pedalling or toward riding with more flair on the descenty bits

“Jacobs ladder being a famous exception”
Its suprising just quite how much of it IS rideable though, just keep getting back on and trying to get through it. Similar to the upper sections of Coldwell clough it’ll try damn hard to make you dab.
Really its only the really steep steppy part near the top of Jacobs that its properly properly difficult imo. The rest will go with a chunk of manic pedalling and a load of luck to panic-steer yourself through the rubble

Also nearly at the very top theres a double step up out of the gully bit that I’ve always get the weighting wrong and my rear tyre spins out on.

I’ve only ever ridden a 10mm thru rear axle (DT RWS), never a front 9mm thru-axle, and its noticeably (though not that often) stiffer than a standard 5mm QR

I’d advise against superstars own 9mm front thru-axle though, they’re pretty heavy with the steel axle. The American Classic ones appear to be the same, but with an aluminium axle making them I think £18 and 80g. Iif you want to throw more money (£30-45 or so) and go lighter again then the DT Swiss RWS thru-axles are very nice and secure. Supposed to be stiffer than one with a QR lever because you can properly crank them up tight, can stand on them if you wish. The newer (metal?) version is supposed to (not had mine ages) last better than the old plastic one which strips the plastic ratchet teeth off itself

Your fox talas (are they QR15 or QR?) may be on the noodly side for a pitch, but a Pike 327 will be on the underdamped side given a 327 has no compression circuitary at all, just a rebound damper.
They’ll be coil U-turn so fine tuning (compared to air) will be a bit hit and miss, compromising between the different weighted springs (I assume the seller will only have one in it?)
The 150mm sector with no damper I rode in the alps last summer was definitely in need of a damper. Being air I could set it just so that I didn’t lose too much when it came to the small bumps without it diving too much under braking and on the steep stuff

I think:
335 had a lockout, 351 had motion control compression damper (no floodgate), 409 had moco (internal floodgate adjust), 426 had moco (external floodgate adjust), 454 had an aluminium steerer tube (426 also perhaps?)

a 2.5″ minion is I reckon ever so slightly smaller than a 2.25″* maxxis/on-one

*new** tread maxxis (advantage, crossmark, ardent, others)
**apart from newest high roller 2, minion dhr2**** which have gone smaller, but not as small as old*** tread maxxis?
***high roller, minion dhf/dhr, others
****haven’t actually seen one of these, but am assuming will be the same as the HR2, given released at the same time and the lineage with the original smaller older tread versions

Dunno how big a chunky monkey comes up, but a 2.4″ Schwalbe seems alright for me. Going by the size of a 2.25″ maxxis/on-one and how much bigger they come up than a 2.25″ Schwalbe, I’d guess a 2.4″ maxxis/on-one would come up a bit bigger again
Oh and if they’re still there and you come across them, don’t buy the 2.4″ Schwalbe Fat Albert TLready’s on on-one. I fell for them and they’re the older 2012 ones that don’t fit onto stans rims.
Newer 2013 onward (what crc has) fit fine

Remember stans claim the 21mm internal archEX has an ‘effective’ internal width of more like 25mm because of the BST2 way the rim holds the bead, ie it doesn’t hold very much of it so its not pinching it in anything like the same way say a mavic does

surely this is rather pointless given there is no ‘average’ mtb or road bike ride?

road biking around Boston compared to the back roads passes of the lakes must be very different?
Same goes for fireroading (not mtbing imo) around thetford vs. doing laps of stainburns double black warren boulder trail?

Then work in factors of how muddy it is or how much headwind you’re working against and what bike setup you’re riding and it all becomes a mish mash?