Probably something like:
Ibis Mojo SL (with lopes link), though having less aluminium inserts than the standard mojo would get me worried. Maybe swap the shock for a PUSHed Fox RP23 High Volume
CK Aheadset
Salsa seat QR
A RS RVL Team (Blackbox) Air U-turn, 120-150mm and a Fox 36 Van RC2 FIT for alpine playing
Easton EC90 seatpost and a KS i950R seatpost
Specialized Rival Saddle or a Gobi if it were comfortable
CK Hollowtech BB (plus the grease tool)
Shimano XTR cranks/rings, shifters, F/R mechs, chain, casette
Those £676 Edge Carbon rims
CK Hubs or DT 190s (or 240s) if CKs can't be adapted for a 10mm rear DT RWS thru-bolt?
Some kind of tubeless kit
A set of pretty much every vaguely applicable tyre from every manufacturer
Magura Marta SL 210mm F/R and maybe a set of Avid Codes for Alps
Bontrager Race X Lite 17deg stem
Easton Monkeylite DH 711mm Carbon bar
ODI Rogue Grips
Shimano XTR SPD pedals

Theres one called a choob or chube or something like that. Similar, I assume they're less expensive

Just to confuse you further, how about a softail? For that little bit of give at the rear, with a 'full size' travel fork

Have you considered an on-one inbred (not an inbred 456). They'll take 130mm forks but be lighter than a 456

I was suprised to see the large frame virtue wieghs in at 5.5lbs. Though virtually nobody else pubslishes weights other than small or medium frames so maybe I shouldn't have been

Also consider a dialled bikes prince albert. £240 (I think), 5.2lbs, designed for 120-140mm forks so should 'work' better than the kinesis with your 130mm fork. The head angle on the kinesis is a little steep compared too. Wierdly they've specced a 71deg HA on the large, and a 70.5 on the Medum and small sizes?

What makes you think it couldn't take it? Especially when you feel the coil (327, 335, 351) one (same chassis) would be fine?

As a guide, the Solo Air Recons (327, 335, 351) fall under the 'Trail' Category on rockshox's site. They used to fall under the 'All mountain' Category (before they added a 'trail' classification)

The Recon SL, XC and Race (all 100mm) fall under the XC category

If you're getting confused:
327 = no lockout (OE only)
335 = turnkey lockout (OE only)
351 = motion control damping + lockout
There maybe other differences in eg steerer tube material (steel or alu.)

EDIT: Just followed your link. Its a Race model, so Rockshox call it an XC fork. Chain Reaction and Merlin have some recons for £175 (not sure which models]
Go on rockshox's website and see what you can decifer

"Kinesis maxlight XC120 would be another good place to look"
An XC2 would be lighter and cheaper as well as being designed around a 100mm fork. The XC120 would give a slightly slacker head angle If you wanted it?

The Kinesis XC Pro 2 looks a good bet. Sub £400 (I think?) and carbon seat stays

"completely FORGOT i had these pedals on! "
Theres your problem ..

You're probably paranoid enough of them not to forget you're using them in order to get used to them before they become second nature

Try building up the technicality of your rides as you get used to them and try to keep pushing yourself at what you'll ride clipped in.

If you decide to try and ride unclipped with one foot as you ride technical bits you'll be in a worse (foot) position than with flats and you'll not learn to ride the technical bits clipped in. Don't let yourself chicken out of riding those bits clipped in. Keep building it up and it'll become second nature

You'd be running approx 60mm sag on a 130mm fork, compared to 30mm sag on a 100mm fork. You'd be bottoming out the fork about half as easily. Because of the silly amount of sag it would slop all over the place, especially under braking would it not?

"At the time that was the RS Revolution, but now it would be the Reba, which is 130mm ..
.. but keeps the head angle constant"
Its a Revelation. Rebas only go upto 120mm even now
It wouldn't keep the head angle constant, not even bottomed out as Fox 36s are more than 30mm taller than 130mm Rev's. A shorter stroke shock may well do though?

"expect to pay around £1 per gram lost"
But bear in mind that can be a pretty poor exchange and you should find a fair few weight savings a fair bit better value than that

"why mines so heavy??"
How clean is it? There could be a few pounds of mud covering it. Try washing your frame out as best you can too. Some frames collect mud quite well

"difference between my 36 rc2 talas and your forks"
100g tops. They're both 36 Talas which are 2.5kg(ish)
(A 36 Float R is about 2.1kg, A 36 Van R is 2.3kg btw)

It looks as if you could drop weight off almost every component, but you'd have to replace just about everything. Unless you replace everything only after you break it, it might make sense

Aside from not having to do loads more shovelwork to fill in a double to make a tabletop, fewer riders will ride doubles than tabletops meaning the lips/takeoffs stay in better shape. Any pictures will look more impressive too, so all win win for someone building there own doubles who can competently ride them. Unfortuanetly this doesn't include me

"up a seal skin in very large size to fit over the top! Just cut the cleat hole out the bottom and away you go"

wtf? Whats wrong with overshoes?

"it'll be too wet to ride until maybe sometime middle of next year"
It was fine last march, (And spetember)

As above, wait for a really cold (sub zero) day when its frozen for your best chance anytime soon

"Sounds a shame really as it will now end up f'ked like most of these routes"
"A great route about to be ruined by idiots in 4x4s"
But garburn pass is worn down to bedrock/rock along its whole length is it not? (My memory of it has faded somewhat, so I could do with an update)
Surely they won't manage to put passive boggy ruts it in as its reasonably well established.
If there is, you'd think they'd manage to erode to the bedrock making it a bit more interesting for MTBing?

"believe that the noise and speed of offroading is not acceptable in a National Park"
Motorbikes I sort of agree, but 4x4s seem to travel at about 2mph everywhere. Or does mean being a boat both are automatically allowed (and that being your point ..)

"i would vote to ban cars from travelling up to fairholmes"
Where would they park if they didn't? Its nicer up beyond fairholmes up toward the packhorse bridge (slippery stones) anyway (regardless of traffic)

The High Volume version of the RP23 would be worth having

I think RP2s have propedal adjustment (ok, so not lockout), but wouldn't set you back as much (if you can them aftermarket?)

In the meantime you could try to improve your smoothness of your pedal stroke and increase you typical pedalling speed. IME 4-bars don't bob anywhere near as much with fast and smooth pedalling. This would obviously be harder if you have flat pedals and not clip-in pedals/shoes though

It'd be cheaper (and about half a pound lighter) to have your lowers swapped to the 15mm bolt thru (QR15) lowers. Assuming you were going to buy new pikes that is

If you're going to wait until everything wears out, then you'll need to replace everything at once, else the new stuff will have to wear (out) to the same degree as the most worn out component for it to engage properly

If you keep track of the stretch (get one of those little chain stretch things) then you can replace the chain at about 0.75% stretch. When I've done this the new chain has gone on without slipping. Granted you won't be able to do it forever as the drivetrain is going to wear, but it will save you money in the long run. At 1% Stretch its taken me about 2 rides for the chain to stop slipping

Another way (thats probably the best value for money) is to rotate a set of chains. Something like 3 chains and keep swapping them on a set rotation every couple of rides. Not only will you lilkely clean your chain more often (as the chain is already off (its easier if you use powerlinks, even if using a shimano chain)) but you have a casette, 3 chains and chainrings all about at the same level of wear right from 0% stretch through to worn out
It just depends if you think you can be bothered enough to keep swapping them over

"It looks like scafolding get a lapierre instead"
I didn't like the really steep seat angle on the spicy. i know the effective seat angle is completely normal, but once you stick the saddle down a little to descend the saddle 'shoots' forward and as the saddle (as with all bikes) offers a point of reference/to guide the bike side-to-side for your legs, it pulls you forward too. I then ended up 'crouching' further back to compensate, but all this does is put more stress/load on your legs. I wanted the saddle pretty high on (large size) in 'proper' pedalling postion, this forcing the saddle further back than a 'normal' angled seat tube, further pushing my weight over the rear wheel
I know the enduro is similar, but its not as bad (looking at the numbers)

"because the reviews are rubish "
I need to read more reviews, but I've read the MBUK one (for the £3k one). Yes the bars are a little narrow, but thats fixable. The IS damping was notchy (the £2k one comes with a lesser R version) so I'd want to get Mission control damping fitted (I saw something on here recently where someone from freeborn said they did exactly this on this bike for a customer)
Who else has reviewed the 2010 Enduros?

I quite like the look of it. Its a little different from many other rather generic looking FSers

"Spesh bikes are often a little bit lacking on mud clearance!"
Really?
The 2.5" HRs 'belong' to my '07 SJer FSR as used in the Alps. Loads of room in there. They're about the same size as 2.3" Specialized (I think?) which the Enduro comes with

I have some 2.5" High Rollers kicking about ..

You cut me out of riding the beast!
Or at least I thought you were videoing when I when past? Perhaps not

If you 'need' to run your saddle at the angle, and fully forward on an inline post, I'd guess your shock is set up too soft. Yes the rear shock should sag when you sit on it, but your fork should by about the same amount (given they're so similar in travel)
It looks slightly odd as it is IMO

"helmets can look good. If you do it right"
Dirt Jump and Full face helmets perhaps, but XC or road helmets?

I wouldn't. The components already have their names on, they don't need them duplicated on the downtube or wherever
I stick bike related stickers on my toolbox

I thought XT (6-bolt) is 17 & 13mm front, 17 and 15mm rear?

Get to a specialized dealer and get them to measure your sit bone width with the 'memory'-foam pad thing they have. Even if you don't fancy buying a specialized, you'll have an idea of how well different saddles fit you?

5" FS
Maxxis High Roller 2.35" (a big 2.1") 60a folding
I wanted to keep some volume. The deep paddles make up for being too fat to cut through slop for the mostpart. Climbing traction on the ramps is fine the vast majority of the time too
I'm happy enough with them for the peak, not great on sloppy grassy stuff, but fine in the rocks (I can't seem to tell whats not good though?)
Seemed alright at Whinlatter/Lakes, though I think I might prefer Nevegals when theres not as much slop to deal with

XC HT
Bontrager Mud X 2.0" (55/62a)(folding)
The 'checked' pattern on the knobbles has just worn away, so the tread height is now more like a new ACX. Not as great as they were new/unworn but still pretty good. Suprisingly quick for a mud tyre, probably due to not running low pressures. Narrow enough to cut through slop, feel (to me) to be small but otherwise I get on with them
Can't really fault them on XC stuff, (eg Sherwood Pines)

play bike (small HT)
Maxxis Crossmark 2.1" (a decent 2.1") 70a
Block up in slop really very quickly, but they're meant to be my summer tyre for my XC Hardtail. Seem quick and grippy enough to have a muck about on BMX tracks and stuff

Did you buy it from superstar?

Just email them. They were quick and helpful with the replies with me. They wanted £20 for the standard lever unit posted and £35 for the new ODI grip lockring style one. You use the magic pound coins bit and ask for the part in the comments box
Okay its a little steep when you only need part of it

You really should have mounted the lever below the handlebar though. Running on top was just asking for trouble. If you wanted to run it on the right and below, you undo one bolt and swap the lever to the other side

"The worst is people who commit the god-awful practice of wearing lycra tights but then baggy shorts OVER them – awful – just what is the actual point of those shorts? They don't provide any additional warming .. "
They do provide additional warming
More importantly, especially with shorts with a little water resistance (or waterproof), they reduce the cold/wetness of the undershorts

"they don't provide any protection"
They do, especially thicker DH type ones. Theres always a chance you might rip the lycra open at far end of your ride?

"the only possible practical reason is pockets – well just use your camelbak."
They're good for that. I don't want to have to keep taking my camelbak on and off whenever I want to get at my gloves or camera (waits to be told my camera should be in my camelbak)

Sometimes I just wear the lycra, but sometimes its easier with baggies

I also bailed on the pub, so sorry, I needed to get back early

Good ride though, well apart from the SPD clate attachment plate part of my shoe ripping out on the last descent. Maybe carbon soles aren't upto the peak after all ..

I look forward to the video pook, I want to see just how slow I look to have gone down the beast

James – (Black/Gold Stumpjumper)

"Will me and my 12 year old son be disappointed"
I suspect your 12 year old son will. Whether you will depends on what you expect should constitue a black trail (which it just isn't). As above if you go open minded and prepare to push yourself trying to go faster and faster you'll probably enjoy it.

"we always try to give something back as this trail is free to ride"
There is an honesty box wuth a suggested donation on the gate at the top of the car park?
Visiting the pub etc in penmachno village is good too though

The Joplin on CRC is only 75mm drop though. Depends on what you are after but its not exactly a lot

"also spotted this with a 7" drop "
I think thats a misprint, I'm pretty sure KindShock i950s are 125mm drop (same as i900s)

That'll be since the 'credit crunch'
'Quantitive Easing' didn't exactly help making the pound worth a lot less

So 1.5 rides out of Goodridge Organics is looking pretty good then. Especially when it was pretty wet at wharncliffe and on the N.Y.Moors
(They were all I had, and I expected much better)

Superstar seem to last the longest for me

It would seem anyway, that if a pad goes very quickly is not bedded in properly and/or not suitable for the slop?
I wonder how much (excessive) rotor size affects bedding in ability especially with lighter riders without any proper hills (eg some/many XC races?) to get a decent amount of heat to the pads?

to the relevant thread in your list of threads you posted on

"We'll stick the beast in and have a road spin to Rowlee farm….unless people want the hagg farm climb too?"

There is another way to go (all the way) down the beast, go up Rowlee Farm, not use the A57 or go back up to the top of the hill and get a sort of wall ride to have a quick muck about on:

Probably this view toward Hope Cross, Lose Hill, Mam Tor, Rushop Edge:

Though as above, Whinstone Lee Tor is probably a close second:

I hadn't even thought if the hub wasn't laced upto a rim. If so, I think you may need to get a rim laced upto it

2.5" Contis? I thought they were one of the smallest volume for stated size about

A 2.5" Kenda (eg Nevegal), 2.4 or 2.6" Maxxis (eg Ardent) I think will be much bigger.

(A 2.5" maxxis should be only slightly bigger)

"Where do you get the mixed 1.125 and 1.25 headsets from"

Do you mean 1.125" to 1.5" headsets?