Just for clarification Canyon have replied (again swiftly) to my follow up message
Its a 3pawl hub, (not a 2). and 18 points of engagement. Not 24 as mark90 has said above

Think I’ll have to price up rehubbing the bike from new ..

I read the 54T bontrager ratchet upgrade is almost certain to eat itself?

Yes I can notice it. Having spent time on 60 and 72poe hubs, I find 16poe basic shimano nearly unridable when things are really slow and testing. Maybe that’s a relection on my riding ability ..
I’m on a 36poe upgraded DT 350 atm, and while its good, I can notice the little bit of slack in pickup compared

I’ve just found canyons swift response in my junk. thanks Hotmail

Canyon are saying that’s a 2 pawl (not 3 pawl as per the dt swiss website) hub. and only 18points of engagement.

Now I’m left puzzled

you can gain more clearance under bottom out by taking a half round file to the top edge of the hugger where it meets the back of the seattube. File out the stiffening brace on the inside of the hugger where the tyre meets at this point and also the moulding pip on the inside edge of the hugger

I think it was most likely down to partially casing a double with the front wheel. Nothing ridiculously harsh, just enough to send me the rider forward in the riding position with a jolt.
On False teeth, mbr, Coed-y-brenin

Ah ffs. STW forum has told me this didn’t post, hence the Other thread that’s pretty much identical .. but betterer

Got some TL28 26″ for my mum. They’re still true (on sale superstar build on switch hubs), but as the interwebs hinted, they are a little soft. She’s managed to put a small dent in the rim. Running 2.25″ NN’s Pacestar Snakeskin tubed so no problem, but probably an issue tubeless, even with careful bending/filing as best back to shape

It is what it is

@cheifgrooveguru: narrow bars?

“Do people really have frames that are that small to require so much seat post?”
that’s my thought – surely the reach is tiny to get the seat tube short enough”

19.5″/Large frame V3 (the longer top tubed/slacker one) El Guapo:
I’m 6’2, 32″ inseam trousers. I think I’m relatively longer backed than legged

150mm KS i950, not measured, but might just/nearly be room for a 200mm?
Its pointed downhill btw, hence the saddle-bar drop. And no I don’t ride with dropped toes.

I’m interested. Reckon I could get a 190mm in my current frame theoretically. Maybe a 200mm
I quite often drop my (dropped) 150mm i950 in the frame for more clearance. I’ve used a conventional post uplifted in the alps before for the extra drop ..

For the little I’ve looked into it, it looks like both the 170mm reverb and 175mm LEV are both stealth routing only? No good for me atm

The turnoff to cross the railway track to get onto the ranger path
The turnoff from the ranger path to climb back up over the shoulder to drop down telegraph is hard to spot
If you haven’t punctured on the water bars down telegraph theres a bit of sharp pointy bedrock section of trail that pinchflats me every time. Even running tubeless

£3 each posted? Specialized with removable cores
Granted you may have to trim the square bases for some rims to get the tyre into the well pre-seating
Still, cheapest I’ve seen and the valve heads themselves don’t seize like some can

Another other tyres do it too
2.3 Spesh Ground Control Grid
Though in fairness having several very poor true ups post Fort Bill coupled with a fair sideways landing it also buckled the rim beyond truing

Not sure if it bothers you but T129’s have (or had?) quite limited rear tyre clearance
A friend of mine bought one late 2014, Came with a 2.2″ WTB front, 2.0″ WTB rear. Wanted a 2.2″ WTB rear, but it wouldn’t fit in the frame when he tried

Someone else I know has 2.3″ Spesh Butchers front/rear in a 2015 T130, so no hassle there

” i25 are 25mm inner width. The Arch ex is 21mm inner “
True but not all rims are the same
Stans claim the lower (much more than most) sidewalls of the BST2 rims (FlowEX, ArchEX, Crest, etc) make them equivalently wider. They claim the 21mm ArchEX/Crest are equivalent to ‘normal’ 25mm rims

Comparing tyres mounted on my ArchEX’s to other rims (Mavic,DT,others) the same tyres do sit a lot rounder (rather than droplet shaped) and have much more volume because of the shape). They do so by grabbing the tyre lower down the sidewall, much closet to the bead hook rim of the tyre
Pacenti (TL28) are similarly low walled, haven’t really checked if they are quite as low walled

I don’t know what the rim/ty0re profile is of the WTBs

My brother has a tube taped under the saddle, one bottle cage/bottle and the little else he carries on shorter rides (including another bottle and CO2 inflator) goes in his specialized bib shorts, the ones with pockets in the back of them. I forget what they’re called

I think this hangs on your wheel size
A 29″ wheel is about a gear harder than a 26″ wheel
At that size of sprocket, a 42t is around a gear harder than a 36t. So 22-42 as you describe on a 29″ wheel will be about equal to a 22-36 gear on a 26″ wheel
For years 22-34 on a 26″ wheel was the low gear most MTBs were sold, built and ridden with, and it isn’t all that low. A 22-36 on a 26″ wheel is still a useful gear for difficult climbing
Though any lower than that may be getting a little too slow, depends on your balance and your willingness to stay on the bike, or instead to get off and push, albeit slightly faster with a lower gear than that

As above though (36-22=14) + (42-11=31) = 45t, which is a lot of capacity for a mech to deal with. Though because you’re ‘only’ using a 36t chainring, some long cage mechs are rated as upto 45t capacity so should just do it. Its the 42t sprocket you’ll have to adapt the mech to handle

I guess Rogate is too far?
Other side of hampshire

Ah didn’t know they’d revised the 36star ratchet. Good to know, shouldn’t have to worry about mine now
I think Ill have read it on somewhere like mtbr. One of those monster threads that goes on for years

350 is only 18point pickup on the freehub as standard. You have to buy the 36 star star ratchet seperatly and for some reason its about twice the price of a replacement 18star ratchet pair. Browsing for reviews it seems the 18star is bombproof whereas the 36star can fail, the 54star bontrager* special version reads as though it will definetly break. Eeven more pricey as a spare also
*to fit DT RWS

I think Hope aren’t as noisy as they were since the Pro2 24point and early Pro2 Evo 24point. The newer Pro2 Evo 40point and Pro4? 44point are faster so the noise is buzzier and smoother
I’d like to see how they fair before I’d buy one as the 44 has only really just come out and the 40point hasn’t been out all that long

Superstar Switch is hard to fault, it just not super light or massively fast freehub pickup (27point), nor is it pricey
Superstar Tesla has improved since its initial 60point versions. The Tesla Evo 72point is faster and more reliable but can still fail. ime Warranty is excellent though

[pedant] I think you mean E91 325i manual [/pedant]

I had an E46 touring 330d. Unfortunately it had to go to the breakers prematurely. I miss that car

I was looking at the E91 and V50 as you are
From what I could find out the V50s are prone to electrical problems after a few years
I decided I’d be paying another £1.5-2k on top for BMW E91, plus parts might cost more

I ended up with a mk6 Golf estate (while my insurance goes down)
Massive boot for a hatchback derived estate. Bigger than a V50 or E91 I’d say. Not miles off an A4 avant. Full size spare below the ‘lower boot space’ too (lid of which can be folded back flat out the way for more space)
Decided the mk5 (which the mk6 estate is closer to than the mk6 hatch) front was going to look dated, though have now fallen into the emissions thing, I thought a 59 plate non-blue-motion would be okay, but no.
In estate there is only one petrol though, the ~100hp 1.6. Tested and not bad but not powerful
Went for the 2.0 diesel
There were plenty of sportline mk5’s about but very few mk6’s. I think because the alloys on the mk6 SE were nicer than the mk5 SE’s. S on steel wheels and no silver trim iirc, nor cruise control
Didn’t come across any (even sportline) with leather either

Octavia I think only look good in ambulance livery, the earlier one is only 4* euro ncap where both golf mk5/6 are 5*. Later Octavia (dame edna-ish headlights) don’t like look of either and wasn’t cheap
VRS logos on white patches of leather turned me right off also

“What tyres?”
Front – Albert (S/S) 2.25″ Dual Compound
Rear – Rocket Ron 2.35″ SS Pacestar
Rear – RR ^^^ again
Rear – Hans Damph 2.35″ SS Pacestar

Doesn’t count but tens of holes in Specialized Storm 2″ S-works …

A SS HD is around 760g I think, as heavy a tyre as I’ve ever (DH bike aside and apart from stuff I’ve popped on to kill for the alps) used, the RR is lighter
Going super Gravity makes a HD the wrong side of a kilo. plus about 300g. DD another 100g again

What makes it more annoying is brother on his DH bike uses SS (not SG or DD) 2.4 Bettys and now Marys in SS, doesn’t puncture (including antur uplift) and rides a bit faster than me ..
Though he is running tubes

“would come with the 36T ratchet “
My 350 came with the 18t ratchet. Bought a 36t ratchet for it and installed before using it. Not cheap, but couldn’t have run the 18t without first breaking a 36t. Its not broken yet, the internet said its possible

“pushed the saddle back as far as it will go”
This doesn’t sound right. I know people do it, but it seems like the frame is too small/short. The angle your are then placed between your saddle and cranks is a bit slack. Plus ime you tend to break saddle rails when its set all the way back

Find out the dimensions of your tapered head tube (there are different versions)
Look on works components website
Its a little fiddly as you have to select angle before headset dimensions, but check them all (1, 1.5, 2degrees) and you’ll see what options you have

There may or may not be other options from other manufacturers, but I’ve only ever checked works

“I’m confused relative newbie to mountain biking! No mad downhills just trails “

Where do you live?
Where do you currently ride, what do you want to ride?

No point getting a 160mm+ full suss if you’ve no difficult trails to test it out on. When you say you won’t be riding Downhill tracks too

The £33 Tenn ones (through themselves, amazon.co.uk, some online bike shops) are especially good for the money. Mesh lined too so you’ve not got waterproof material rubbing on your legs
May only be 5k/5k waterproof/breathability but leagues ahead of my £70 in 2008 ‘boil in a bag make you feel ill’ Alturas that fit worse than my £15 army goretex’s
I think they’re from the UK, far east made obviously

Who is the last song by?

As above Pro FRS 50mm £24 all very nice. A stiff enough lump with rounded corners and backside. Once built up the graphics get lost and blend into many bar/frame colour schemes well:
£24 posted

thank you

Hmm SuperGravitys have the snakeskin all the way around which looks like what I want, its the extra lower sidewall bit seems to be the thick bit making them nearly as heavy as double defences ..

That’s the one

Just beware with the mudhugger if your seatstays/swingarm is flatter than it is steep. Even a 26″ Titus El Gaupo which isn’t particularly flat on the seatstays, it wants the 29″wheel version to give enough coverage
You’ll want to check under bottom out that there is enough room for your big(gest) tyres plus mudhugger up against the seattube. I had to file a seattube shape indent into mine to make room.
Also that your saddle when down can’t catch under bottom out

“The rear mudguard experiment was not successful”
Its not long enough
I’d like to say mudhugger, but they’ll be narrow for fat tyres

The stuff I’ve had from bike tart applies well enough, but after a few of rock strikes and a little time it shatters/crumbles away. Okay for cable rub but not a lot more ime

I quite like the drop from the west onto monsal viaduct:
http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?x=418009&y=371710&z=120&sv=418009,371710&st=4&ar=y&mapp=map.srf&searchp=ids.srf&dn=604&ax=418009&ay=371710&lm=0
The upper section (land rover track) has been levelled in recent years which is a bummer), but the bridleway to the viaduct and the bridleway straight down over the railway is still a good combo

“one in particular that’s just a huge boulder in the ground”
This bit? or another?

tbf, I think last time I went down there, even with a bigger bike, it had eroded out more at the bottom to be more of a wheel trapper from memory

Ah, servicing might not actually fix it then

After constant leakage issues with my 2010* Dual Air U-turn revs, they eventually gave up completely this last Christmas. They required a complete new assembly to fix as there’s a non serviceable upper part to them on later* Air U-turns which were worn on mine
I decided to convert them to Dual-Air only. Tf tuned/Loco advised this might not be possible as some u-turns the inside of the station tube isn’t made smooth like the inside/outside of a dual-air, Mine appear to be, so £67 or so (I think) got me a dual air assembly from tftuned (loco was shut for relocation/xmas). I needed an air top cap also, which I had from some scrap recons

*in the rockshox service instructons there is a section (not relevant to my 2010 120-150mm) to service all of the air U-turn assembly. I can’t remember if this is just for reba air U-turn or earlier revs also (if so probably 100-130mm I would guess. 110-140 were late-ish)

theres a guy on ebay selling seal kits he’s made up for a few pounds. I think the listing is for Rebas, but it works for revs ime and reportedly others

Download the service guide from sram/rockshox site, and though its a little slow making sure you’re following the instructions for the first time, its not actually difficult

I think its this guy:
Dual-Air
Dual Air U-turn

the faster ones have been mentioned previously but a few off the top of head I’ve used or considered

all points of engagement within 360deg of the freehub:
15 – Octane One, basic Formula (the OE hub lot, not the brake lot)
16 – Shimano M475/495, Alivio, Deore, XT 6-bolt(2004) and many other 6-bolt, earlier and lower shimano
18 – DT Swiss Ratchet, with original ratchets
21 – Hope XC
24 – Hope Pro II, early Pro II Evo, WTB* (actually American classic?**)
27 – Superstar Switch Evo
30 – DMR 6 pawl? American Classic***? Stans 3.30***?
32 – Shimano SLX (M529/629 etc on crc aren’t SLX)
36 – DT Swiss Ratchet with 36 ratchet in, Shimano XT/Zee/Saint/XTR since aroud 2007?, Stans Neo Team
40 – Later/current Hope Pro II Evo
48 – Hope Pro II SS/trials
54 – Trek/Bonty Ratchet upgrade for DT Swiss. interweb indicates they die much faster and pricier than 36 star ratchets
60 – Superstar Tesla i/ii
72 – Superstar Tesla Evo, Stans Neo Ultimate, Chris King
120 – Superstar Trizoid/Superleggera, Halo, OE on some charge bikes?, patchy lifespans?

*WTB are 24, but the way it ‘gathers’ all pawls together before engaging them all perfectly together (unlike many pawl hubs) slows its engagement significantly, when i finally build mine up, I wouldn’t be surprised for it to feel as slow as a 12 point hub would at its slowest
**Not sure why I think I’ve read something suggesting so
***one of these might be 32 not 30