“I’m looking forward to 11 speed cassettes”
how about this? (dated june 2008)

which are these UK made bikes you speak of?

How bigger role will CEN testing now have? regardless of material?

“The Team Revs I’m looking at are .. about 1lb lighter”
I’m not sure on that one
Am I right in thinking Pike 454 have alu. steerer tubes (426/409 being steel)
The weights for revelations are for the QR models, I’m assuming you’re after 20mm?
My ’10 Team Air U-turns weigh about 1880g(ish) according to kitchen scales
Dual Air should be a bit over 100g less going by the claimed QR weights, Dual flow rebound, non-blackbox ’11 models (RL, RLT) are a few g less again

IIRC, 454 Air U-turn Pikes were around 2150g(ish)?
Or are you pikes Coil U-turn?

Is there any scope (in the calipers range of movement) to shim the rotor away from the mounts?
What caliper is it?

1 – Hollins cross – broken road, not the footpath
2 – Cut Gate, as per flyingmonkeycups video above
3,4,5 – 3 of the 5 Hollinsclough/Tenterhill (south of buxton) descents, as per the V graphics white peak book

Hmm, this post could end up a bit of a photo dump
Some recent, some not so

Be wary of greater stem rise angles and stem length, you can easily cramp your cockpit (and climbing position) without realising it

Specialized do adjustable stems, the 8-16deg one might be useful, but can be difficult to use unless right on the end of the steerer tube because of the angled steerer tube inserts

I’d reckon higher rise bars

“was tinkering with the settings of the gate”
here is your problem, turn it the other way

I use the cheaper of the Endura ones, thermolite? anyway not the FS260 ones

I find if I overlap the legwarmers with my lycra (under/bib) short maybe a couple of inches they never slip down. If the leg warmers go over the lycra they always slip down
I like the zips to zip down over my waterproof socks and stop water getting inside them

tbh, unless its raining and cold, or sub zero I don’t use them (similar goes for my 3/4 thermolite bibs), they get too hot for me and I can feel I can’t get decent pedalling power
In anythign above maybe 5deg C I use the knee warmer versions which I find don’t get anywhere near as hot, but keep my knees warm in any wind/rain and offer a teeny tiny amount of abrasion resistance in minor offs

” Look at it this way, the Broken Road by Mam Tor used to be an A-road and they don’t seem able to sort that out”
Isn’t that more to do with Mam Tor moves about so the road can’t stay together, that and they gave up with it decades ago so presumably its got worse since then?

How draggy should Chapel Gate be as a climb once they’ve flattened it? Just trying to find a tiny plus out of a massive negative, given the best bit(/side) of rushop edge is technically off limits maybe it could be a shortcut on the ‘classic’ Jacobs ladder loop to get in a bit more around Hayfield/Kinder reservior without making it as much of an ‘epic’ for some

“What’s the point of a lifetime warranty?”
I’m not sure, the shop I bought my frame from said its lifetime was probably up inside of 3 years old when the rocker link snapped. yet, the shock/brain have a 5 year warranty? Specialized replaced the rockers anyway so a non issue, for now ..

Having just looed through those of stuart’s (and reminding myself what it is actually like) as much as I’ve improved since I last went, I don’t think I’d be able to make a decent attempt at it tbh

like this:

On the other hand, the rest of us struggled to walk it ..
I reckon I could have a half decent crack at it now, but still nowhere near riding it all

“Apparently these forks were the 80/100mm variety so the spacers were already out”
Eh? that a new one (to me)
The original?/previous reba was internally adjustable from 85-115mm, the current one 90-120mm?

I know of newer air recon/toras being 100mm max, but until this I was sure rebas were 120mm max (with no spacers)

How possible is it the LBS are spouting tosh?
It would give them more chance of selling you something else and get them out of possibly damaging your forks?

Which bit of getting to the travel spacer is troubling you?

I was pretty happy last summer with Michelin Dry2 2.15″ (about as big as a 2.5″ maxxis), big but fast rolling
peak, 7stanes, elsewhere

“could never get them spinning nicely for more than one ride”
Mine have been spinning fine for ages

“Hope XC hubs run for years without requiring replacements”
Mine needs new bearings after about a years use in total

Which ‘OEM’ shimano SPDs are they?

I’ve not had a problem in mud with (current) shimano M520’s except after the odd prolonged walk, where a couple of kicks of cleat to pedal has been enough to get them to clip back in

“when u bale… “
‘when you bail’ surely?

I never found my kyle straits comfortable
I just find them irratating to wear, though I suspect I would with any knee pad

“the only way of fixing play in cup and cone wheels is to tighten them up until they dont go around”
That sounds like pitted races?
New (undamaged) hubs will tighten up without play really easily IME

“you can take cups out of shimano hubs too to replace them”
How?

tbh, I’d buy a C/C hub, simply because I wouldn’t be happy buying (m)any of the cartridge ones. An XT (or SLX) c.lock has a faster pickup speed than a lot of other hubs, and the £50 to get one doesn’t seem too riculous

Any idea which compound those disco pads are?

Hmm, the cost of the adapters pushes the price of the DT over all the others mentioned above

Struggling to find dimensions for wheelbuilding on the No Tubes ZTR atm, if I could get away with using the same spokes, It might cost comparibly to the superstar

Anyone used the Onone 456 hub? £20osh is very temting, having a heavier hub rather than lighter is offputting though

What is a ridiculous price?

IIRC Edinburgh Bike Coop were selling the one with the £2200 RRP (is that the elite?) for £1400. No idea for how long though

Just thinking deals such as that could have an effect on ebay/resale value?

google shopping only brings up A2Z for avid elixir for £12.95, CRC have avid pads for £13.99. Any idea where I might find them for less?

I’d pretty much removed the shimano hubs due to the special spanners and being fixed into one axle standard tbh

“dmr revolver .. light”
Any idea how light? Which side of 200g? I can’t find a claimed weight

I seem to (think I) remember reading something saying Hope Pro II’s had draggy bearings from new?
For £1 more (6g less) I’m leaning toward a No Tubes ZTR if I’m to spend as much as that

Mine (a front one) stripped the splines in just over a year of carefully using it
Its been replaced on warranty

You could try Halo Hex skewers for £9 a pair, though obviously they’re not realised quite as quickly needing a 5mm allen key

Where is ‘the chute’? I don’t think I’ve heard of that name before

And is mam nick the top of road across the mam tor rushop edge ridge?

Have a look on merlin, there may be some truvativ or FSA’s that might suit as an alternative to those you mention

My brother had been riding it for some time, but my first marin:

The ’08 Marin Mount Vision replacement (was offered a new front triangle for free, or newer for £180 to cover new shock) has recently had hairline cracks around the suspension linkages, so now on a ’10 Mount Vision frame

My spesh stumpjumper:

Had links replacement links on warranty
Also on 2nd front triangle after crack near the base of seattube

When trying bigger (for me) drops slowly, SPD bunny hopping off the top and clipping my rear wheel. I’ve managed fine so far ..

I would have said Shimano M520’s, £20 posted including shimano cleats
Solid all round feel in retention and pedalling (less so as they wear) adjustabel tension. 380g isn’t horrendous

I was looking through an old issue of mbr (I apologise .. ) and I came across an SPD pedal grouptest
Wellgo (very similar cleats) WAM19? (something with a 19 in the name) are 300g, which is lighter than even new XTR’s
They were reportidly a touch flexy for mbr test riders*, I think I found them online for just over £20

*But if they’re for your kids axle flex shouldn’t be as bigger issue compared to journo’s presumably doing the odd drop/jump or two?

There were also some Syncros ‘AM’ pedals with a bit of a cage (but very little) for about £40, but still as light as the previous generation xtr’s

EDIT:
“something potentailly easier to clip in mud “
I’d reckon shoe choice can have a lot to do with it. Apart from compacted snow, I only have a problem with mud (with M520’s) when I’ve been walking up a very muddy conditions, all it takes is a couple of kicks of cleat to pedal and they’ll clip back in

Probably the dark peak. I think I’m getting bored of it, though surely that cannot be?

Is that 29″?

“Im assuming it is what the riders who keep building masses of woodwork and huge jumps want though.

I was attempting to suggest a solution to eliminate the issue around these riders who tend to be the ones the landowner/public notice the most”

I know you were, I was perhaps rather pointlessly trying to add another side toward anyone seeing that idea and going with it (on this thread) as an ‘only’ type solution

If you empty the -ve chamber and then measure you’ll have better idea when measuring

I believe the axle-crown distance is not a straight line, but the vertical element (Where the horizontal element would be a combination of all the forward offsets (crown, dropouts)
I could well be wrong of course, that is merely my perception, I’ve not read anything anywhere on this

IIRC the A-C of revs should be:

06-08 Rev dual-air/dual-air U-turn/coil U-turn @ 130mm = 508mm
[dual-air min* of 115mm would be 493mm]

09 Rev dual-air/dual-air U-turn QR @ 140mm = 521mm
[dual-air min* of 125mm would be 506mm]

09 Rev dual-air/dual-air U-turn 20mm(big fat pike lowers) @ 140mm = 518mm
[dual-air min* of 125mm would be 503mm]

10/11 (bulged lowers) Rev dual-air/dual-air U-turn/dual position air? @ 150mm = 528mm
[dual-air min* of 130mm would be 508mm]

*I’m a bit confused by the stated minimum travel spacerable on dual-air Revs, after all the dual-air U-turn models all go lower. It might just be they only sell single piece travel spacers down to those travels, probably not to overlap with the reba ..

Next time I go I think I’ll be trying:
Up the road west out of torver, follow the b.way through the woods almost until the road nr. stephenson ground, instead taking the last fireroad north upto natty bridge, once out the woods turn 180deg down the b.way south to stephenson ground
Then as per the ‘classic’ ride, stephenson ground to brock barrow (NW) so long as its not sodden, N down into seathwaite, N/E up the road to the base of walna scar road, E up and over walna scar road, after the bridge on the other side there are 2 rock ‘gateways’, the first a lump on the R, a bit of a straight drop. The 2nd a lump on the R again, but the b.way turns sharp L,R and down on jagged rocks. Walna scar road ‘smoothes’ off from here on
From this point cut across nearside b.way (via quarry workings) SE into torver

I’ve not tried the other b.way (E) into bowmanstead though, so maybe I’d give that a go instead, then permissive old railway path parallel to A road/A road back to torver

Theres a guy on ebay selling a full set of seals for an older Reba, it fits my ’08 revelation and reportidly pikes as well if that could be of any help
It includes ‘genuine’ RS crush washers

Oh and posted for £8 I think

“just require a few hardcore riding spots round london. Theres aston hill in the NW. PORC in the very SE”
I might be wrong, but I don’t think that isn’t (just) want many riders would actually want
While that ‘sort’ of venue is obviously great, it seems to me, partly down to being a publicised ‘centre’ and to deliberately withstand larger volumes of users with perhaps a more spread out range of ability/riding ‘styles’ in terms of braking control, respect for trail conditions, perception of right to ride, expectation to ride at speed/on the ragged edge, bike burlyness etc etc etc .. that wider, harder, smoother, less twisty and generally more generic features appear more often than not
Where what ‘occurs naturally’ is quite different, a greater diversity of tighter, twistier, steeper, more ‘original’ and less ‘familiar’ features with many combinations which are never almost repeated elsewhere/everywhere

“im sure if there was a “proper” (as proper as you can get with 150-200mm altitude gain) downhill spot in this area it would solve alot of these problems”
I agree with you, though I think there would still be many exceptions

“36t ring I could put on to replace the middle, but I was wondering if I would spin out using this. The cassette is a 11-32t.”
My brother has his bike like this
I quite the look of it without the bashguard
He says its rare to have problems without the bash

One problem you may have is getting the front mech low enough, ideally you want it as close to the 32/36 ring as you would a 44, but many frames, especially FSers don’t have room on the seattube due to suspension gubbins

Remember to shorten the chain accordingly, big chainring, big rear sprocket + 1 pair links, accounting for the point in the rear suspension with max. chain extension (if its a FS)

Probably a Hemlock with 120mm and 150mm rockers, one with the stiffer chainstays and at least a pushed shock, maybe a coil to run with a 160mm fork
Of course I’d ‘need’ a lighter 150mm fork with travel adust as well, probably 2 sets of wheels, one tougher, one lighter and then have 2 tyres setups to suit ..