I can’t quite work out if you’re taking the p**s?

I’d guess the spesh site is confused and you’re not. So long as I’ve not had it wrong for years it is as top swing swings over the top, bottom swing swings underneath

“apparently they’ve bought up the rest of the UK stock and are the only place likely to put them on offer.
Ordered myself a shiny new 2011 ASR-5 for £1249!”

Rocky Mountain Cyles have (a white/large) ASR-5 on offer at £1200?
here

I’m assuming you’re asking about an alloy frameset? (The carbon one won’t take a bottom swing mech)
I’d guess both material models will have the chainstays meet the frame at the same point? If so a top swing mech should work also
Just the top swing mech is a pain to setup, requiring a hex sided pinchbolt to get a spanner on to clamp the cable while in inner ring position (Mine came with one), If it wasn’t for the tube getting fatter on the carbon one as it goes to meet the ‘ladies legs’ around the shock I’d have had a bottom swing mech on by now

Though not a DH tyre, nor run tubeless, I patched a 2.25″ Advantage folder with inner tube patches (admitely they weren’t out of a cycle repair kit). One inside, one out. A bit of a bulge (I didn’t stitch it) but it seemed to work

There must be an on-one inbred with dropouts to suit you
Genesis iO?

“OT but just to let you know, the brain does not lock the shock”
Mine definetly doesn’t because I leave it as turned off as it will allow
It tends to deteriate quite quickly to feel quite knotchy and lumpy over bumps when switched on. Even when it briefly does work properly its still noticable that there is a slight lag between hitting the bump and the shock opening up, (though this could be that it needs the riders wieght/reaction force for the shock to ‘know’ the bike has hit a bump?)
Its an ’07 Stumpjumper (so nothing like as ‘locked’ feeling as an epic), but I believe newer versions are much better

I’m under the impression that:
FSR is supposed to be active all the time (pedalling, braking), the problem being nobody pedals in perfect circles and the majority of FSR/Horst bikes having derraileur gears meaning the front lower pivot isn’t always inline with the chainring chainline, people move their body around on the bike and the back of seatstay brakemount isn’t 100% active like treks concentric ABP

Would I be right in thinking if you had a singlespeed/hub geared single pivot like a brooklyn (I assume this gets round the chaingrowth/bob/chainring inline with pivot issue?) with a Kona Style DOPEsystem floating brake mount you would get a decent result?

Not impossible that its a trek. I’d avoid as its an elderly frame thats been ‘blasted back to aluminium’ though

I would like to do as they do on the 36″er riding up lots of stairs video too

Saw this thread title the other day on the forum and (mistakenly) assumed someone would have linked you to one by now

Assuming you want QR* dropouts I believe these are what you are after:
Edinburgh Bicycle Coop
Winstanleys-drive side
Winstanleys-non drive side

*the text on EBC indicates they also have the maxle ones too

Try to avoid CRC since the card detail fiasco (though end up using a fair bit with paypal), merlin, on-one, wiggle, ukbikestore, edinburgh bike coop, evans cycles, cyclestore, cyclesurgery, leisure lakes, swinnerton cycles, winstanleys, SJS, JustRidingAlong and have used a few others (off the top of my head, Farnham cycles, Rocky mountain cycles and others from google shopping)

I stopped using Tredz after they sent the wrong thing on my first and second orders from them

Any chance of a (flat) picture of the side of the bike? To judge your seatpost height/bar height. I asusme the forks are 100mm? In which case 30mm spacers, a 6-8deg? rise stem and 1″? (low rise) bar isn’t exactly high when you’re 5’11”. Could maybe be lower, but then if you want to ride all day long then a bar-to-saddle drop could get to your lower back. I know my XC HT does over about 4hours out riding
The amount of seatpost showing would suggest it might be a bit small though, what size is the frame? I’m guessing not large?

Could maybe setup the brakes so you only need 1 finger so you have the rest of your fingers to hold on with. XT shifters should be able to be setup the other side of your brakes what with being able to adjust the clamp position relative to the shifter unit. Having said that you do have hopes so things could be limited. Personally I’d ditch the shifter windows anyway (as I find glancing down tells me 100% of the time exactly which gear I’m in) and replace with the blanking plates they should have come with, this might give you more positioning options if the hopes are troublesome

What rims are they?

The low swing front mech helps to break up the length of the downtube nicely. Also ought to reduce mud build up around the chainstay/seattube/BB area and hopefully not wear out the front mech asx quickly, or at least this was my thinking with my hardtail bikes

Personally I don’t think I’d have ever thought about Panaracer CG’s for an XC hardtail, though I’ve also never ridden them ..

It does look like a bike crying out to be finished off with some SPD pedals though. Even if it were M520’s

How many gears on the rear?

Are your shifters sperate from your brake levers or are they combined into one unit?

I’d guess it should be possible for under £250 fairly easily new with handbuilt wheels. Obviously used it’d be less
Have a look on merlin cycles, looks like it might be possible for around £212+ plus postage

What do the frame/fork mounts look like?

IS mount or post mount (your frame I’d guess will be IS mount?)

I thought minions were a dry DH tyre? Given the largish (for a knobbly) surface area of the knobbles and fairly close tread spacing (for a knobbly)
High Rollers being the indermediate tyre, and Swampthings/Wet Screams being the wet (DH) tyre?

What jimw said, but in the 4-30Nm range .. (4-30nm being just a tad smaller value)
Sorry being overly picky

I suppose they must think If you’ll pay the £800* ‘upgrade’ for the wavy LED strip then you’ll pay what the person you know did to have it fixed

*At least thats what my mum said they wanted for it on an A4. She opted for the normal (non christmas tree light) headlights btw

Elfin, is that your full saddle height? (with the bars up like that)

Go ride around, try following some other paths

apologies for likely needing to know the areas a bit better than what below shows

25.4m

16.4m
Both made of bits of V graphics routes and ‘the good mountain biking guide’

My brothers ’08 and ’10 Mount Visions* go in a Thule like this one:

The thule site would suggest this one (maybe a 530?) is no longer made, the Freeride 532 appears to be pretty similar

*I don’t know how a whyte differs exactly with the tube shapes however

My brothers marin has been on the roof a lot including to/from the alps at 130kmph with no issues

“JAMES: YGM”
Thank you very much

EDIT: Hmm, it seems my computer can’t read it beyond displaying some sort of coding ..

More than 4 climbs? The last one I went on only had 3 full/proper hills, the one before 4? ..
Local riding is better you say?

“more later… including THE ROUTE!!!!! “

When is this later you speak of?

Can I at least ask (I appreciate given the time I may well not get an answer .. ) for an idea of what the route may entail? Are we talking 2 hills or 6? Are you going for including as many best bits as possible or more of a loop that includes whatever it may encounter?
Just that I want to work out whether to come, and maybe more importantly (And can’t quite believe if true noone has mentioned) try to work out what tyres I should have fitted? ..

“led me to believe it was llandegla and it turns out to be coedy brenin which is possibly as far apart in Wales as possible!!!”
No they’re not? They are fairly near one another in terms of waymarked route trail centres?
Brechfa and Marin might* be the most far apart (in driving time) but Llandegla and Coed y Brenin ought to be something like 1hour between them?

*I’m guessing

What Pimpmaster said, only I’ve not used trailrakers but have used the rather excellent all round mud tyres that are Spesh Storm (S-works) in the older dual compound version. As far as I can work out the newer (2011 onward) storm is now only single compound

“However I did notice on some newer ones I bought that the sidewalls have been strengthened…you’ll see a slight pattern to the sidewalls unlike the older version”
You’re older versions aren’t 1.8″ are they?
I know it used to be that the 1.8″ was available in standard and an extra puncture resistant version and the 2.0″ only available in puncture resistant? I’ve not had a problem with my 2.0″ versions, they’ve been ridden in peak rocky terrain, though I realise thats not like riding on flint

“Spesh Storm control is seemingly a copy of the Mud-X, but can be found cheaper!”
Please where?, I can find MudX’s advertised from £20, but storms (control or s-works) for £25-30?

“Is the general consensus on these that the Deore are much better?”
I thought a load of the magazines were saying deores had no power not so long ago? Unless they’ve updated them recently?
Personally I’d go avid juicy 3 or elixir, but I know not everyone likes them, I get on with mine fine

I’ll see if I’m not working, I’ve not been on one of these for a long while

Its not just not the same now though this thread. No fluctuating register of planned attendees, no route to merely suggest little tweaks of refinement (though no bikehike makes this harder admitedly) ..

“First part of Cavedale beats all of pindale hands down. Second part awakens you and makes you laugh”
what hora said

Not mine (though I’ve briefly ridden it once or twice), not a new one and no longer blue:

“as it’s not painfully steep”
Most of the Llanveris path is less steep IIRC? And hence around half the distance (not vertical gain) is ridable for most IMO/IME/IIRC, crucially IIRC most of it is more stable under foot than the rangers for pushing/carrying
I could be remembering wrong of course

I’d definetly include going up Llanberis and down the rangers just before the zig zags for the sake of including the very fast and long jumps of telegraph valley, you can add on the rangers zigzags up/down as mentioned above if you so wish (if you park at the ranger station)

Along similar ish lines, R853, slightly heavier (0.2-0.3lbs claimed) would be the sanderson life (cromo breath being claimed at 0.4-0.5lb heavier also)

Mine are fine too, though I tend to be fairly careful with them

Or scotland, or ..

From the Singletrack vimeo video stream, this one makes me want to try night techy riding, the ‘commentary’ makes it sound scary but fun:

Only really done local stuff at night, one or two ‘techy’ish bits but I did know them fairly well, only used very poor lights, I ought to get some proper ones and get riding a night really

“there are chaps that ride a fixie mtb in the peakdistrict”

There was a guy on a snowy/icy STW ride round the jacobs ladder loop, not pansying out on the ladder either:

Seems thats a bit fuzzier than is ideal
Rigid fork and 26″ wheels too ..

All of europe? It’ll be a long road trip, just the driving
Are you including/remembering Scandinavia for one?

I’d guess you (or your friend) will have to invest in some sort of literature on the topic such as this
Though beyond listing the resorts, it isn’t all that amazing as a resource IMO. Plenty of googling (forums, video, photo hosting sites, etc etc) will probably still be needed

“even if there is such a thing as a 0.7mm shim”

There are such things as 25.0-25.4mm, 25.0-25.6mm, 27.2-27.8mm shims though which surely shows a 30.9mm-31.6mm would be possible to produce. I’d like one too

why maxxis?

apart from the ‘IIRC more expensive than schwalbe’ 3C maxxis, the rest of the maxxis range is fairly expensive for the tyre you get

You’ll struggle to drop rolling resistance and have the same grip IMO, Depending on the tyre/compounds/riding a dual compound tyre might help (stickier on the sides for cornering, harder in the middle for rolling)

If you keep the front tyre for front grip but switch to a more of a semi slick tyre on the rear (where much of your weight will be) you can reduce rolling resistance a bit, though at the expense of some climbing/braking grip, and as its getting wetter I’d maybe err away from slicker tyres unless you’ll only be riding at trail centres

IIRC in sub zero temperatures they have a tendency to break. Can’t remember if its the saddle or the post