“No id much rather leave it but riding through a boggy mess just isnt much fun either”
I don’t have big issue with boggy messes, I can see the drainage/surface need sorting. But many non boggy tracks get levelled too

Why do they all have to be 2 or 3m or whatever? Plenty of bridleways are not that wide
I find the surface they put down after they’ve done is often worse or a lot worse to walk/ride/horse ride on. Fist sized loose limestone or similar it not upto scatch IMO
Though I prefer it before, the work they’ve done up on Houndkirk Moor (nr. Ringinglow/Foxhouse nr. Sheffield) isn’t huge stone and they’ve at least tried to bed it in. some sections they’ve left what their 3m wide ‘new’ path 1ft above the old one won’t stretch wide enough to cover, so some of the old rocky path is still there. It has ~1m^3 sized boulders ever so often presumable to discourage 4x4s form veering off the new path.
Could they leave the ‘best’ bits of path alone somehow? At least leave the exposed bedrock, fill in the ruts and bogs, put in drainage ditches/gullies etc if it HAS to be done

Are there illegal bridleways?
Sorry stupid question, (some) peak park rangers think so, like stanage edge as told me in as many words

Hope they are okay

SirJonLordofBike
‘in your defence’? I questionthe doubling up of so many same bikes and so so many unbuilt, 2 VP frees a Ti Holeshot, 4X 2:1 .. all unbuilt
I’m so very jealous

Trail/AM-ish Full Wuss
XC Hardtail
Playbike, 4Xish hardtail
Rigid MTB as commuter/rollers bike – currently in storage
XC Hardtail SS – almost completely worn out/scrap bits

As above average gears is 10.2 per bike (18,9,2,21,1)

Thinking about another FS frame though ..

In the house, this many, though 2 more but 1 less since this:

“here’s one of my days work”
I think you cleaned the number plate too well

Kind of wasted it really. Though got an hour locally on a SS made up of parts too worn out for other bikes. I think I got the gear wrong as there was a lot of spinning out and saddle bouncing, but no grinding away out the saddle

“SDG Bel Air is definitely a good option to try if you don’t get on with a Spoon”

I don’t get on with either. Spoon is much more bearable for me, but the front bit is too narrow (like the SDG which seemed to be worse)

Currently on a Specialized Format which is a bit too hard and too small area. Thinking a henge might be better but I don’t want to be spending £50 just to find out

“The only known way to chain induced kick back is a drive shaft based design with gear boxes at either end, not ideal. And yes, the only way to remove pedalling induced kick back is to have lock out, but that, in my opinion, is just another switch on a cluttered handlebar. Plus they work purely as an on/off switch”

What about the felt equilink? That doesn’t bob under pedalling (while seated)
What about if you have a (remote lockout) on a RS motion control fork with a floodgate adjust? You can set the level of lockout/compression when you turn on the lockout switch/dial
Blackbox Motion Control units have ‘dented’ compression dials giving you 6 levels of compression from ‘off’ to ‘full lockout’
Other maufacturers have similar things, I’m just not 100% clued up on them
You don’t have to have a remote lockout lever on the handlebar, a switch on the fork/shock is barely any further if you’re going to have to manually switch it
Why is gearbox-shaft-gearbox the only way?

“The ideal, in my opinion, would be a suspension system which gained resistance as you put pressure on the pedal. When you stop pedalling it lowers in resistance”
What about when you’re pedalling over bumps/lumps/rocks? I don’t want my suspension locking itself up. I want it to be keeping the wheel in contact with the ground, trying to maintain traction and let the bike move over the bumps/etc

I think its more to do with the size of your knees than your height

You’ll probably only really know my trying a pair or two on. If you can’t get to a shop with them in or try somebody elses, you could always buy some, try them, send them back for another size if they’re not right. (Distance selling regulations will allow you do so)

“55 mph in 40 zone. In a lorry all non dual carriageways are 40 mph”
IIRC (could be wrong though) HGVs are supposed to do 30 in 40 zones (like 40 in 60 single carriageways)

EDIT: Reading around the links etc, was it a 60 zone (and 40 for lorries)

“Do you mean the singlespeed hub mods above?? Surely its because you want gears but either don’t need the full range, or want less dish in the rear wheel (for more strength).
Like conventional builds aren’t strong enough, and missing a few sprockets will make all the difference in weight.

then how about “because they want to…””

If its a Hope SS hub then you’d also get twice the pickup speed over a pro II as well?

IMO if you have a choice on your bike as to which will fit, I’d go with a bottom swing as it won’t collect mud like a top swing will and hopefully last a touch longer. On a hardtail I think they look better too, especially on larger frames
On many full suss bikes for eg only a top swing will fit though (or an E-type, or a direct mount, or .. )

I use a superstar BB mount on the XC bike
If you don’t plan to backpedal then its fine
(Thorn unramped chainring btw, no bash)

“You’re doing it wrong”
+1

A fair number of these I really quite like. Granted some have some pointless and dull bits, some are overly rough and/or hold mud/water a touch too well for too much of them but negative bits seem to overuling all the good bits

I question what people think trail centre trails should be exactly? (or what they shouldn’t be/consist of) granted I’m not a fan of fireroad downs either

You missed X7, X9 ..

Though with almost nothing to back it up, I was under the impression that R, CR might be being replaced with 7 and 9?

It used to be that Elixir R had toolless reach adjust, CR also had a toolless contact adjust, CR carbon had carbon levers (though IIRC the brake was no lighter), any mag one had magnesium lever/caliper bodies. 5 were a fair bit heavier than Rs and lost the toolless lever reach adjust (requiring an allen key in an awkward position). If they’re anyhthing like juicy’s of old they’ll also keep the ability for the lever to click forward about 1cm from the normal rest position. Not 100% sure what this is for
Elixir 3 was a tuny bit heavier than a 5, if they’re like juicy’s they’ll probably loose the 2 bolt lever clamp and loose the lever going forward thing
No idea about 1’s, lesser somehow probably

X7 etc appear to be a different colour (And pricier)
Also, original R’s didn’t have adjustable caliper entry hose’s. Later ones did (and claimed weighed 8g more)

They all seem to have changed a bit now 1,3,5,7, etc etc. with 6 sided rotors (I quite liked the G2(juicy) and G3 (original elixir) rotors tbh) and maybe different shaped parts?

I’ll be even less use as I’ve no used them nor have a heckler

From what I read between the lines on here, it depends what bolt size you have running through your shockas to how much offset you can achieve and it depends how much slacker you are hoping to achieve as to wether it will work for you, as it won’t give you loads.
That said a 160mm fork won’t give you all that much more over a 150mm fork (though noticable)
IIRC for eg:
Fox 36/RS Lyrik/Domain @ 160mm A-C = 545mm
Fox 32 QR15 @ 150mm A-C = 525mm
RS Revelation/Sector* @ 150mm A-C = 528mm
*(unless its 530mm for a sector like the recon was 2mm higher than revs)
Which will give you upto 20mm higher axle-crown height. Which most likly will be a bit less than 1degree slacker, but also raise your bottom bracket, reduce you front centre/effective top tube length, slackern your seat angle etc etc where the shock bushes should do the opposite

Depends on the season
Anything from 45-100+hrs a week
Start at 6 or 7 if busy, normally 8
Finish at 5 when quiet, can be anything upto gone 2, Past 12 is common when busy
Lunch is 30mins if I’ve time

Sealskinz socks – though not hugely happy with them, never warm when really cold, nor ever really warm up if/when water goes over the top IME, though doesn’t help that (SPD’d) feet don’t do all that much when riding
Fleecy Knee Warmers as a milder temp/wetter conditions set in
Water Resistant (but still fairly thin) gloves for wet/windy/above 0degC (Specialized something or other)
3/4 Fleecy Endura Thermolite bibknickers if I think it’ll be cold, often if goign for an XC/road ride sans baggies
Fleecy Knee/Shin warmers with normal bibs under baggies for colder/darker months
Waterproof/resistant shorts for wetter rides
(polar) buff/choob. The trekmates ‘choob’ can be found cheaper than ‘genuine’ buff models
Less than 0degC I use some pretty thick gloves (Specialized something) that have air pockets on the ends of each finger (fingers stuck up against the ends of gloves get cold very easily). These are very bulky though. Will rarely ride with them all ride, even when its around -10
I am another ‘hot runner’ though

Re: Altura Attack, where can you get them for £30?

Yes and No

The pink and green clash horribly

Yet if you removed only the stem and handlebar with something more normal (even white might go) then I think it would like fine, maybe even dull if you put black bars/stem on

I’d check the bushings aren’t worn down to the metal. One of mine did for about 1/4 of the way around, making the stantion silver and rough. A bushing swap stopped it getting much worse, though I think running it for ages obviously dry of oil having never dropped the lowers was what caused it in the first place

I’d echo what has been said above

“just to prove the issue existed!”
What is the issue exaclty?

This may turn into ramblings but ..

“route of “smart” suspension (electrical sensors and adaptive damping) with the emergence of the “Specialized Brain”, or stay physical”
Unless they’ve drastically changed it recently, the specialized brain isn’t as you describe ‘smart’.
As I understand it, it is a pressurised valve in the compression circuit that opens given a big enough jolt/bump from below. The pressure (and sensivity) is adjusted by an external dial
I’ve a set (or maybe 2) of brain/shock internals somewhere from service/warranty replacement. I could put up a pic If you want

You don’t appear to have mentioned fork/shock lockouts, either of the fairly heavy compression (eg rockshox) or stiff until blow-off (Eg Fox IIRC) type, nor propedal or low speed compression settings

You mention the kona magic link. As I understood it was (primarily) about steeping the angles and firming up (by reducing travel) under pedalling
Along similar lines, what about fork/shock travel adjustment or lockdown (ETA, launch control?) either by external dial or swapping rocker plates/shock bolt positions or scott or cannondales remote travel adjust/lockout shocks
Also bionicons travel/angle adjustent ‘on the fly’ system

A quick google search shows giants claims about their NRS bikes:
“Rising rate suspension + “zero-SAG” result in “no bobbing” and “no power loss”

Felts equilink system is supposed to have no bob (whilst seated)

What about hub gear/gearbox bikes with pivots positioned to eliminate problems

Though not dual-suspenion, outside the box what about ‘fat bikes’ (~4″ suspension in the tyres), suspension seatposts (and stems .. )

I’m not familiar with many suspension designs but what do all the other designs out there do as regards your problem?

Many of the above, upgraditus a fair bit recently

Having ridden ‘properly’ for ~5 years I thought uphills might have become easier by now. They seems just as painful, admitedly I might be spinning a lot more in SPDs and a gear or two higher but ..

Cycling not doing anything about my michelin man tyre

Not really being upto singlespeeding

Riding solo, too often recently

Not knowing anybody with offroad lights

Riding with my brother for more than a day or two at a time – the level of incessant faffing gets to me

Other riding mates who at the merest hint of a cold, a chance of rain or temperatures less than ~10degC aren’t interested at all

The winter bogginess of many ROWs

My job having loads of overtime when the weather is good for going biking

Wanting to find/ride new (to me) trails all too often

Snow, when its deep enough that its just in the way

Ice, and all too often on the best bits .. I give them a good go, but my falling reactions are getting slower

Breaking things

Awesome
Thats one bashring I don’t think will be getting bent any time soon

“their rear hubs cost £120!”
RRP is around £145

“A Superstar one is about £120”
More like £60 for the the like-for-like (ish*) hub. Its the 120point one thats £120, though from what I’ve read it can start to become a very free hub ..

*Alirght, not UK made, nor priced for the middleman/LBS route to market

“I think Hope hubs are ace, and I’m trying to call Alan about a project at the moment“
“Can you get them to add some decent form of sealing to their next hubs please?”
Could you ask him if they could double the pickup speed to that of the SS/trials hub? I think I could probably live with the noise then to the point I think I would bring myself to buy one. 48point pickup with an easily serviced freehub would be awesome

“Santa Cruz sell the Heckler for £999 (or £899). The Five is £4-500 more”
“a Five (£1395 with RP23)”
I was going to say comparing the £899 Float R heckler with the £1400 RP23 Five isn’t exactly fair, but it seems you no longer get an RP23 for £1400, its now £1500 for an RP23. £1400 gets you an ‘evolution’? RL
The 2012 Heckler would seem to have an RL for £1100 now
Having said that Santa Cruz I’m guessing are a much bigger company and I’m guessing manufacture in Asia?

Hmm, I was going to suggest along the lines of what you’ve already done but ..

“I already have uncut steerer/45 degree stem/riser bars”
Any pics?

How tall are you?
And how long/what size is the frame?
Also what length stem, how much layback in your seatpost and how far back is the saddle on the rails/saddle angle?

Lackof stem clamp bolts on the back gives a pretty good chance its a thomson elite? (25.4mm)

The tyres ruin it IMO (wants something without a stripe and a touch bigger)

Also, to make the most of your Maxle fork, I’d have 31.8mm oversize stem/handlebar on there too

Hmm, there seems to be something missing from hat blindside ..

Would dropping the stem down the steerer tube against the headset (as with the pink bike) help with dirt jumping?

Is that the side of kielder with the 1.2km raised wooden bit (thats plenty wide enough to ride side-by-side (and had quad bike tyre tracks along it when I went). A fair few sections were really quite rough, and there was a far too long fireroad descent early on?
I’d echo your comments

The east hillside (up/over, deadwater? trails) I like very much though. The end (after the turnoff for the black) didn’t leave me amazed, but I really liked the black section. I found the trek up onto deadwater dell interesting, but probably only because it was covered in snow when I went, so the descent down again had some speedy suprise lumps and bumps in it

I know its not popular but I quite liked the XC trail at newcastleton (20mins (by car) around the other side of the west hill). The black north shore stuff there was very wet and I wasn’t feeling upto falling off that day, though I’d very much like to go back now I’m a bit better with raised wooden stuff

I’m curious as to how you’ve narrowed it down to an i900 over an i950, when an i950 is lighter, is better sealed, has a better clamp, has a 6″ drop option and when you’re also considering a reverb, the extra ££ between them can’t be that high up your priorities?

I’ve got a KS i900r. It no longer works properly. Its out of warranty. Before it stopped staying down, the side-to-side and fore-aft play was getting pretty unbearable (apparantly the ‘no-slop’ system is/was patented .. )

Quite a bit at the start for a 10?km loop, though if you skip out the 2nd and 3rd sections (both uphill) and stick on the fireroad (as it was when it first opened) it doesn’t take all that long to get 90/95% of the climbing out the way

EDIT: Just looked at the OS map. (If I’ve not looked at it wrong), its about a 200m climb to start, I thought it woul’ve been more than that tbh

I was only aware of a 2.25″ and 2.4″ NN?
The 2.25″ NN will be bigger than a 2.35″ HR. A 2.25″ NN will probably be a bit smaller (but not by much) than a 2.5″ HR. (I’m going by a 2.25″ schwalbe albert vs. a 2.5″ HR)
On XC717 rims I personally wouldn’t go bigger than 2.35″ HR’s, the extra big side knobs just about keeping them okay
If you’ve no rocks no split non snakeskin NN’s, then they also do a 2.1″? though I’d guess it’d be smaller than a 2.35″ HR?

I’d have liked to have had a scale to ride up there, (though admitedly If I did have a scale, I would still have taken my FS (Assuming I still had it if I had a scale?))
I spent most of that climb trying in vein to wipe sweat out of my eyes. It stung quite a lot, ran out of water at the top. Refilled the camelbak in bozel at the bottom and had drunk 3l halfway to moutiers
Good times
Just looking over the IGNs now attempting to retrace it

Is there any possibility to take a bike that will also ride uphill?

No though its been a few years since I tried
I now go down that way, taking the bridleway on the hairpin-ish bend down to monsal viaduct and then bridleway down and left a bit. Much better ..

But 0mm on the rear is enough?

Not on a bike legally, so long as its mostly dry edale cross (top bit above jacobs) to south head makes for a decent shortcut if you must cut it out

“Why would you chose an arch over a flow? Just for the 50g saving?”
That and a more reasonable tyre profile when running narrow mud tyres, though the (flexier) crests being wider has held me off buying any so far

“I’d be inclined to wait for the replacement for the Arch next year”
Really? Any idea on further detail? If they can get it as wide as the crest and maybe closer to 400g I’ll be buying some

“44:22 32:16 22:11 which ever is available”
Personally I’d be avoiding 22:11 (small:small) as the chain crossing and the small casette sprocket I wouldn’t have thought would be upto grinding away out the saddle

For 27spd, 3*9:
If you have an 11-32T 9spd casette (11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32*) for 2:1 ratio you will want 32T middle ring up front and gear 6 (16T), (4th smallest, 6th biggest)
If you have an 11-32T 9spd casette (11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34*) with a 32T middle ring 32:15 and 32:17 will be you closest to a 2:1 ratio obviously. You could also try the 44 up front (unless you have a 42T outer?) with the 23T out back should be a bit closer (but a tiny bit easier) than 2:1

12-36T I think will be gear 7 (16T) if its 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36

12-34T, 11-30T, 11-27T or others I have no idea. You’ll have to look at your casette

*If I remember rightly