Am on a high volume monarch. I thought I was being picky but it does blow through the travel too easily. Anyone know if you can get volume reducers for rockshox like these fox ones?

Hmm, but why make the shock a grey colour instead of the same gold as the fork?

“I’m stuck with 27.2. Seems It’s this or a Hilo”
Or a gravity dropper
Or a KindShock i7
Or a Rase Black Mamba

a 110mm drop plus a 25mm setting would be very tempting. Under £100?

“317s are 440 grams
719 are 460 grams
521 are 520 grams”
Plus whatever the spoke eyelets weigh? Seem to think Ive read XM719s are actually the other side fo 500g once supplied with spoke eyelets?

I thought EN521s were 540g which would add 400g (+64 spoke eyelets) to the bike over crests

“many suspension frames have too much chain growth for just 2 extra links or even 4”
Maybe from unsagged, but if you can work out where the effective chainstay length is at its longest and then hold it there then biggest-biggest + inner+outer links length overlap will work?

“on a hardtail chainstay length variance “
Eh?

“One chainlink is an inner and an outer link”
“big / big plus two links “
I see, Ive been thinking your 2 links are one inner and one outer
So youre setting up with 4 chain pins worth of length, when you could also use 2 chain pins of length (one of your chainlinks, rather than 2)

“one link shorter and it would not go into first without straining the mech”
I do with mine, they all seem alright

“MAY leave you with too short a chain. This is because on a 2×9 or 3×9 etc you should never actually use the biggest chain wheel to biggest sprocket, whereas on a 1×9 you obviously will do”
For 3×9 I wouldnt for crossed chain innefficiencies, but for (bash)2×9 I do go big-big. On short sharp up/down/up down type trails I leave the front mech alone and shift only with the rear
1×9 I go that short too?
How MAY it leave too short a chain?
“so mech length does make a slight difference too”
IF you set it up with excess chain like you describe, but if as short as will go with biggest-biggest + 2pins/rivets length, no?

“complain the suspension isn’t working correctly so need a PUSH tune or a CCDB because the chain length is too short not taking into account the chain growth on a full sus”
the biggest-biggest + inner+outer chain length overlap rule does work on a full suss, you just have to measure where the effective chainstay length is at its longest (wherever that point maybe within the suspension movement)
Its what the shimano instructions that come with chains/casettes/mechs/shifters show on them

” rule is NOT even always possible never mind giving optimum chain length”
When is it not possible?
With a lower roller front chain device youd have to loop through that to ‘measure’ I guess?

If you’d consider other stans , then youd be better off with 21mm archEX over 19mm arch. Unless the older BST of the arch suits better for tyres on/off? ArchEX I would imagine would be similar to Crests for tyres on/off as they’re both the newer lower BST/rim height?

“pre-2011 Schwalbe and Bontrager tyres”
well maybe immediately pre-2011, but upto ~’09 ACX TLR bontys were a real PITA to fit to normally slack mavic rims. Bizarrely MudX TLRs of the same age were a doddle

Why?
I dont get why cage length makes a difference to how short you can get your chain
Somebody tell me what Im missing here, I could be missing something, but I dont see?

A2Z blue organic/kevlar are quite good, better than semi-metallic/organic superstar. Can be had for £7/8 pair. Cant say theyre as good as original avid, but Ive not ridden them enough to work that out yet

Hmm, I think what Ive written will read quite confusingly

I get the impression there is some confusion through this thread (other than whether cage length makes a difference to minium chain length) as describing length of chain regarding length
It seems 2 links means 4 chain pins worth of lenght to some, 1pair of links means 1 chainpins worth of length to others and 1 pair of links is 2 chainpins worth of length to some more ..

This is my about 0.5 link length(~0.2 pair of links length) overlapped SS
If it had a proper at least 1pair of links length/ 2 links length(inner+outer) overlap it would run properly with no tightness
Being Singlespeed its in biggest-biggest, so mech is almost flat. The cage length would make no difference to what length the chain should be:

(mech is too worn for geared use, and actually its a 2×1 .. but 22T ring is only for ’emergencies’)

“+3 then add a powerlink”
?
I see, then you only need overlap ‘+1’ and add a powerlink, as these 2 makes up your 1pair links length/2links length(inner+outer)

“brought about by using the 3×9 method on a 2×9 set-up..”
So?

TJ is right no?

If you were setting up 3×9, ignoring full suss extensions for the minute, youd go big big (not through r.mech) and overlap 1pair/2links(inner+outer) and chop chain, to make sure it shifts properly (sometimes youll get away with 1.5links or so overlap (3/4pair)

If you were setting up (bash+)2×9 or 1×9, you still go biggest-biggest (not through r.mech) + 1pair/2links(inner+outer) overlap and then chop chain

Cage length makes no difference to chain length
No you shouldnt ride big-big for cross chain inefficienencies, but setup right you can ride big-big
With 1×9 and/or short cage mech as it wont slap around the same as a long cage on a 1×9 setup you want the chain as short as possible but still want all your 1×9 gears
In biggest-biggest in both 3×9 and 1×9 the mech will be almost flat/parallel with the chainstay. The 1pair of links/2links(inner+outer) makes up for this almost straight bit

North of hadrians wall?
Not the scottish border?

“on average a mountain biker has one day off work each year as a result of a biking injury”
8O 6 years of MTBing and no time off, am I due 6 days off due to injury then?

I cant think of many incidents that even cut a ride short of people I know either. One that ended up on crutches for a while and one that got a quick look at in a&e

EDIT: actually, I can think of somebody else who had a cage built up around his leg for some time

“Protective body armour, clip-in pedals and the use of a full-suspension bicycle may confer a protective effect”
Awesome, Ill be sticking with SPDs then!
or are they comparing to toe-straps? ..

V graphics North Yorkshire Moors Guide book has a few bits in it nearer than dalby to fileym, or at least nearer to scarboro’
That ‘Good Mountain Biking’ Book england/wales has some areas covered also nearer
IIRC issue 36ish of SingleTrack magazine has a route guide for surrounding areas to dalby including some stuff to the east of it. I rode a couple of bits after coming round to the north from filingdales direction from that route guide. A couple more bits I keep meaning to go back and ride one day, combine it with dalby downhill and dalby black and park just to east of the toll booth I reckon would make for a good ride

“if you set it up the normal way i.e. put your chain around big chainring and big sprocket without the mech then add 2 links, rather than trashing the mech if you go big-big, you’ll be left with some slack chain if you go small-small “
+1

with the numbers youve put up I think Id be right in saying that would let you run down to 34-17 before the mech went too slack in small-small combos
On an 11-32T 9spd? casette thats in between gears 5 and 6 (where 1 is the 32T)

Having checked it wasnt specced wrong the specialized website archive spec shows a(n ’08) Saphire (Stumpjumper FSR ‘WSD’) is ‘correct’ in coming supplied with a medium cage sram mech and 3×9 [22-32-44, 11-34T] transmission. Its set up so you can use big-big but means once you’re down to about 1-7 the mechs gone slack and the chain runs against itself. For a bike sold to women who are maybe largely ‘newer’ to MTBing that husbands/sons/friends/parents/etc who introduced them to it, Id have thought big-big and small-small combos (though technically wrong) would be quite likely used, so a long cage mech would make far more sense with 3×9 gearing. Guessing there must be a few more 3×9 (or 3×10) speshs that came with medium cage mechs?

“riding in the general area that isn’t Dalby: Rosedale”
I might be getting mixed up but isnt Rosedale a bit even further west of dalby?

25.4mm is 2 ‘standards’ out of date:
http://singletrackworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/sea-otter-2012-eastons-new-35mm-standard/
35mm is where its at ..

What length stem are you after? If you look hard enough theres usually been something to buy? Havent looked for a while though
Are bontrager still doing 25.4mm (though 2bolt clamp) stems?

Presumably 10 bikes, youll have 10 ppl, so presuming all in 1 vehicle, not possible to mount them on a van/minibus or inside?
or is a hire vehicle and not allowed?
else 2/3cars with ‘normal’ roof/boot/towball carriers?

“license issues if you passed your test after ’97 though”
Other than 750kg max for trailer + load, what other limitations are there?
even 10 45lb (DH) bikes is only about 200kg, so plenty of weight for the trailer?

“a hint of GT to it”
The shock positioning isnt, I think its the seat tube brace and shape of the swingarm that made me think of GT sanction/force

I can see that its obviously quite different, but on first appearance it looks like an ugly(ier?) GT?
imo of course ..

SLX 9spd triple complete is 889g claimed
XT 9spd triple complete is 853g claimed
So 36g difference (and usually around £36 sort of figure difference)

Bottom bracket is the same between them

IIRC
SLX inner chainring is steel
XT inner chainring is aluminium
SLX middle chainring is steel teeth/’composite’ ring
XT middle chainring is steel teeth/’carbon’? ring
SLX outer is aluminium (as is XT) but SLX appears much chunkier

I always suspected there would be little between the arms. 6grams seems about right

[SLX double bash is ~1000g complete, same BB, but as above steel inserts, I seem to think its steel axle? has all steel rings (incl. 104BCD 36T) and as above (104BCD 36T) bashring not light]

” XTR trail versus the XC pedals (for FS XC bike”
First off, what shoes are you to run, why and would you consider anything else?
race style shoes – cageless SPD pedals
something easier to walk in, shimano trail (M530,XT,XTR) pedals are a little better than with cageless SPD pedals for the ‘hot spot’, but the cage bit is useless IMO, its the slight extra area around the axle.
DX,545,424 have a useable cage to pressure relieve if your shoes arent stiff enough to use a cageless pedal like M520,M540,XT,XTR

Am now on M520 and M530, spesh experts (will go back to sports once the experts fall to bits) and tahoes (very flexy, but have chunky tread and spesh 48s fit my feet)

Dropper post. I bought mine because my FS frame with a post chopped to give maximum saddle drop and proper pedalling height/saddle insertion for frame had about 3″ of drop. I knew this before buying but never realised how much my riuding would ‘advance’. Now on a new frame with loads of post/saddle slammable so a dropper post would actually restrict max saddle drop (which I rarely do). Places I ‘know’ its no real biggie as I know where to set my saddle. Its places new to me Ive found Im wanting a dropper again.

“m540 are a chunk lighter than 520s”
IIRC M520 are 280/282g, M540 254g, M770 XT 252g, last gen. XTR were ~320g, latest gen. XTR are ~310g
Wellgo do some for 300g, RRP is £30. I think they’re in the reviews section on mbr, a bit flexy, but if you’re not ‘bulky’, powering out the saddle or through the rough all the time they might suit. Though there are some others for about the same money/weight that have been reviewed terribly. Cant remember which is which

I was sold on M540s (in a shop .. ) when I first went to SPDs for their longer last cartridge bearings. I dont doubt this, but the body wore out before any play developed. M520s have developed play (Ive not serviced them) but the bodies are also going. the ‘body’ play is bvetter with new cleats but its not all that long before the play is back, and yes I keep on upping the tensioning up the springs attempting to compensate for wear. Its obvious wear on the body of the pedal

IME its okay for cross referencing to OS maps as most areas dont have masses of bridleways together to confuse with

For areas that are missed out of the ‘national park’ influenced guide book series it can be useful for a bit of inspiration, the few comments/notes on a couple of tracks can be useful but for the most part it can have a feel, maybe more the areas less well visited, as though there is bit of include all the bridleways regardless of how ‘good’ they might be for MTBing or cycling at all

A few bits have had me questioning whether you are allowed where the book shows (including commented tracks), as I cant find any mapping (or read anything else) to suggest they’re permissive
Then again Ive come across a few bits Id never across on OS mapping, V graphics guidebooks (a couple of other guidebooks) or enaywhere else that have been great permissive bridleways and other ‘proper’ bridleways Id never come across as recomended before

IIRC the guy on ebay I bought from for my 08 dual air revs, he only reccomends for 05-09?(mk1) Rebas as thats what he had, the reccomendations from purchasers saying revs, pikes etc work are all dual-air and not dual-air-U-turn models

“but require the fitting tool to get them installed correctly”
Hmm, dont agree. Ive fitted most of mine with a hammer and screwdriver (that fits through the threaded hole), one with an (ice toolz) setting tool. The faffiest bit is getting it started in the tube, which youve still got to do with the fitting tool?

I dunno, houndkirk is still sort of okay if you stick to the right and go between the boulders?
Okay so not really, its nothing on what it once was. At least Jumble Road (below Xroads) is still untouched, for now?

Look at the pics, they dont look the same

IMO, the only thing that looks similar is that the downtubes are swoopy, like loads of other bikes are

105mm

105mm

cant find pics of a 120mm stem on the hardtail up there

Though both of those above were in their ‘long’ setting with a 105, rest of the time I had a 90mm’s on them, before keeping the 90mm’s on all the time. Shorter and the reach wasnt really long enough for decent climbing

“F-Series WAS available in 140mm”
I thought F series only went upto an F120? maybe not then

Pike @ 140mm = 518mm
I think they’ll be 528mm, but Im going off 150mm 20mm axle rev’s. QR perhaps* could be 3mm longer, not idea on QR15, youd need to check RS website, there ought to be an axle-crown fork chart somewhere, there has been in previous years

*2009 140mm RVL QR were 521mm, where 2009 pike lowered 20mm 140mm were 518mm
Though 2006-8 RVL QR 130mm were 508mm

You’re not measuring from the ‘top centre’ to the bar clamp centre while the stem is flipped upside down?

Do you know the Reign and Reign X are 2 different bikes (as trance and trance x are 2). They’re sort of similar but not the same
Which Reign did you ride, there are least 3 significant variants which are different to one another?

Pitch similar to the 3 reigns, but all a model lesser to the Reign X which is more like an SX trail, enduro evo, trek scratch etc

Reign X is 170mm rear sus, 160+mm forks IIRC, both shock through downtube and shock with swoopy downtube. I think first one (shock through downtube) might have been 67deg HA w.160mm fork, so middling angles
Reigns are all 152?mm travel, mk1 (shock through downtube) came with 130,140 and 160mm forks
mk2 (shock and swoopy downtube) came with 140mm forks w.69deg HA (so steep), will probably take 160mm forks, there was a framset avail for £800
mk2/3 still swoopy but 150mm forks w.67deg HA (so slack). Will also probably take 160mm forks

the now discontinued pitch was 150mm(152?) rear, came with 140/150 forks,67deg HA, will take 160mm forks

“chain on (98.8 pc efficient)bit of lube”
But isnt that when lubed and without it beihng worn?
So muddy it up and your lubes is gone and wears out so over time you’ve got a worn dry chain, which is not going to be 98.8% efficient?

I like the look of the mk2 over the mk4. Not sure how much is that its clean and has no mudguards

Jubilee clip?

Superstar told me the switch evo hub was only* 24 rotation ‘click’s per freehub rotation.
On One told me they didnt know how fast their £40 hub was

*better than basic 16point shimano, but SLX/XT are 32 and 36point
Hope Pro II 8/9/10spd freehub is 24point

Spesh BG gloves

Also are you able to post a pic that shows the handlebar angle on your bike. Likely not but Ive seen/ridden one or two handlebars rotated at perculaliar uncomfortable looking angles?