well yes, but its not a stane

Deffo Kirroughtree black

Glentress and Innerliethen are one stane, although even if they were 2 they’d each have more than any of the other stanes.
Easy enough even in late december to fit in for eg inners xc, GT red with black bits and a play on the freeride park as the light goes
You’d still have GT black/inners DH runs for abnother visit to mix/match into

If north shore style skinnies and whatnot then if its still standing then Mabies Kona Dark Side plus the XC and a play on the 4X

If you want to mix in some DH runs with a 7stane XC trail, then Ae?

Else Dalbaettie for the 3rd

Seomthing like that. Glentrool/Newcastleton(even with Kielder) I’d maybe save for another time If you’re trying to do a 3 best of type trip

If you’ve to fit travel into the 3 days timing can start to make things harder IMO/IME. Also depending how far you’ve to come from
Kirroughtree/Dalbaettie/Mabie/Ae aren’t thaaat far from one abother with GT//inners that much further over Scotland.

“the Mojo HD is lighter and has DW link”
Simply having a DW link surely doesn’t mean it will ride the same though no?
I was at an IMechE lecture with Cy (Cotic) where he showed with many a graph how a DW turner 5spot was very different to a DW mojo

“will have a commensurably longer axle to crown too”
I thought they were the same (relative to travel)? ie 180mm Fox 36 A2C was 565mm? as per RS Domain/Totem

From the pics above, it doens’t look like there is masses of seatpost drop. Obviously better than spesh SJer and Enduros of old, but still not amazing for a 170mm bike?

“really slack headangle to work”

Could be wrong but thought it was still 68deg with 140mm fork, so pretty middleground angles? Just really long top tube

I’d have thought for most people trying to fake it would be very difficult finding a 60mm longer ETT bike than they’re used to. Roughly if a medium ‘trail’ frame has a ETT around 590mm ish, or that kind of ballpark, then finding anything with an ETT of 650mm on anything less than a 23″ frame would be pretty rare bike?

Ouch

Would/could you still have the small stone problem if it wasn’t a centretrack type belt?

cheap, wellgo V8 copies. Around £10-12 online. Try merlin/crc/others

Superstar/etc are nice being thinner but for one weekend, they’re a touch pricey?

If its flat and for one weekend though have you no old random plastic/metal cage somethings lying about?

Ii beleive most SS hubs allow ‘better’ angles for the spokes not having to fit a 8/9/10spd casette within the 135mm width

The pickup speed of the hope (48* point/revolution iirc) appeals to me, but the weight (450g ish?) less so

*twice standard pro II

Also, iirc from previous ss hub stuff on here, the superstar (rebranded something else) one is good for the money. I think the WTB SS hub got rated well on here (forum, not magazine) too.

Do on-one do one with micro-casette style freehub for about £40/300g?

“top end of the mech is bumping against the bottom edge of the chain stay”

I’ve had this on hardtails and four-bars

Shadow solved it (not tried shadow plus). It would seem shadow takes a different swing-path sort of thing and it doesn’t hit the bike like non-shadow did

Why don’t people like shadow mechs?
Chop the cable to 30mm excess as per instructions and mine have been great

“you will struggle to find a torque wrench that goes low enough for many bike bits”

I can only think of one torque recomendation (think it was 0.9Nm) that was too low for my BBB torque wrench (2-24Nm). Ive come across a 27Nm on a frame (24Nm is pretty tight) and the 50?Nm for HTII bottom brackets, the high torque for casette lockrings and (at least crank brothers) pedals but I figure If I torque those correctly Ill never get them undone again
BBB one comes with 3,4,5,6,8,10,T25 bits too. Only drawback could be that its 1/4″ drive not 3/8″ so other bits are less readily available, but 1/4″-3/8″ adapters are avaialble

“Titus racer x ….. likes weight but not the angles but with a 120 fork it will slacken off”
Not really thgough. They’re pretty steep at 71deg with a 100mm fork, so a 120mm fork is only going to take to about 70deg.
Durins aren’t especialy tall either IIRC
If you could get an angleset of some sort to fit then you could get to 69deg or less?

try filling +ve, then -ve, then +ve again (and maybe -ve again) especially if you’re going from much lower pressures, then see if they’re still not working properly

What rims are they to go on?
Fat tyres on narrowish rims aren’t good

@ brant

any update from neil?

Not sure if its an issue with plasma’s but I seem to think I’ve read some guides require filing off the granny ring tab off the crankarm
Also, chopping sections out the backplate to fit around the frame chainstays, bolts and other protrusions?

Of course it might just go straight on

“A Mavic 319 rim with a 2.25 Advantage, and 321 rim with 2.35 High Roller/Minion, where is the issue there? “

A 719 and 2.25″ advantage is just about pushing it IMO/IME, but I’ve not complaint for that

going by orange website specs:
321 is on the FiveAM (with the smaller 2.35″ tyres)
319 on the Five black/gold and 819 on the top model okay fine
Its the 317s on the other models that just seems crazy. These are perhaps the 2 that most people buy as well? (the S and Pro)

Also £££ Hope Pro II’s laced onto 321 and 317’s?
521s, 719s and maybe 319s on the S model would be more fitting?

Spesh QR forks yes, but would I be right in thinking they (all?) come with 9mm thru bolt DT RWS’s? IIRC stumpjumpers (even entry level) have done for a while now. Stiffer and safer than a 5mm QR?

Ragley Piglet?

Toras (same height as recons) ought to be able to be made to 130mm. assuming they’re air? Then they’d e 510mm, 1mm shorter than a Fox 32 QR @ 140mm

They may be all maxle rear, but the base model is QR fork up front ..
Also, a load of the 5s are still coming with far too narrow rims/too fat tyre combos IMO

“The camera angle works well”
I’d have to disagree

Bike + legs taking up too much of the shot IMO
Not as bad as on seattube (inside front triangle

If the bike must be included I probably prefer upside down chest mount like this:
http://vimeo.com/24348154
(though that is pointed touch too far down for my liking, and may even be normal way up, but still chest mount)

I thought this thread was going to be to do with how they hang the bikes off the lift (are they seatpost mounted?)

what frame, what cranks etc?

I’d guess there’s a chance you might need a dremel, file, grinder or similar

Even so, do all the other manufacturers (that sell in the USA) have an other ‘extra’ features such as the bendy backplate washers or locking wire?

Not to say shimano isn’t onto something, but how come nobody else does the same?
Or have they been busy patenting?

Threadlock + torque wrench here

Once had some 3mm headed (not T25) hope rotor bolts fall out once, though hadn’t tightended them up properly in a new hub, and no threadlock or torque wrench

What 130mm fork does the bike normally come with?
What 120mm fork do you have?

In certain cases different forks could be within a few mm of axle-crown length
eg Fox 32 @ 130mm QR* = 501mm
Rockshox Tora/Recon QR @ 120mm = 500mm
Revelation (not 2009 QR)/Pike @ 120mm = 498mm
Sector should be similar

*IIRC Fox 32 QR15 @ 130mm = 505mm

What frame is it?
It might be that you can get a taller/fatter lower headset cup to make up the extra height

Dependant on what the fork is you might be able to increase the travel on it also.

685mm isn’t all that wide ‘these days’. Depends on your preference/shoulder width/trail width of course as to how appropriate it may be
350g (or so) isn’t light for 685mm either, though thats why they do EA50, EA70, EA90, more ££ of course

Looking at the wall thickness (at the ends) my EA30s are a lot thicker than EA70s. Not sure how that affects the ‘feel’ of them I couldn’t say

Anything on Pauls cycles?

new guide with upper plate, you mean single ring it?
I have done on the XC bike, but for this bike no can do, for longer rides up big(ger) rockier hills and trying (more often than not failing) for no dabs (at least between gates) granny ring is where its at for me
I’ve not really had a problem with chain dropping in the UK, Im due to be headed for a more switchback infested region, previous experience (different bike) of backpedalling into turn after turn got me onto attempting ro reduce chain dropping this time around

1 2.5mm/shimano BB spacer yes

Granny bolts do catch stinger mounting bolts yes, but I can take a file to those

It looks as if I might get away with taking a little off the back of the backplate nearly to where the base of the conical/countersunk bit goes to, hopefully without interferring with the centring/tighteness with the countersunk bolts
Don’t think that’ll be enough, not sure I want to start grinding the frame. Hacking at a £22 chain device I can live with, but a frame (albeit one of the lowest priced, more so now) I not so sure about.
Plus I couldn’t just grind it all flat as it’d take it off the BB shell too, I guess it’d need an ISCG(05) facing tool of some sort and take a lot (relative to facing) off. Not sure I can be bothered with trying to find a shop with one of those atm

noted, Ill pass on the seat tube mounted XCR then
Any insight on the ‘chainkeeper’ style one they do? ie the really minimal one

Its a 73mm shell though, so an extra BB spacer would reduce the nDS crankarm/axle overlap, and so that the plastic preload cap wouldn’t really have enough threads to work properly would it not?

stinger backplate I could try to grind/file flat or something
I guess it shouldn’t need to be all that thick as it oughten get smashed into stuff, nor is it supporting a taco bash or something?
Though even if I did, I’d reckon the chain is still going to catch the backplate a bit

I ended up putting a granny (with worn teeth ground off) on the inside to stop it jamming between the crankarm and XCR backpl0ate and spacing out the XCR (68mm BB shell) to just miss the granny ring bolts
Maybe the seattube mounted one might be better in that it couldn’t get stuck if/when the chain comes off

As above the chain comes off after back pedalling or carrying, though without a lower roller or clutch mech I can really see how it won’t?
It rubs at either end of the casette and the cage has snapped on mine

Hmm, on balance it does seem a bit cack

bump

Sanderson curiously omit the seat tube angle off the website

My life is ‘well slack’. Even with a 100mm fork, a 5mm layback post reversed and saddle moved forward of middle I still find Im too far behind the pedals for good pedalling power
Head angle is pretty slack too, unlike a duster?

Id size up or at least make sure the effictive top tube length is on the long side for waht you’re used to, so you’ve room to bring the saddle forward.

Cotic do a green (with wrap graphic) now, me want

Stem is hurtung my eyes a bit, kind of hoping it wasn’t also on the Stumpy
Not sure I’d have a 31.6? thomson in a hardtail. IMO Id have shimmed a 27.2 carbon something in it

Any idea where you might head in the alps. Even just which country(/ies)?

Though I think it could be better* the Mountain bike Europe book is probably a useful start to getting an idea what is where:

*a few resorts are marked wrong in the wrong places on country overviews (eg pila)
Pictures can be a bit useless and generally it doesn’t inspire, though more of a go to resource for a few bits and bobs
Also IIRC doesn’t mention or detail enough resorts that are linked with others and/or tickets that cover other resorts, apart from port d’soleil. Detail on BikeParkAustria or BikeParkAlpi (NW italy) could be better

If you’ve got a day and its nearly on the way to where you’re going, Id say go. Play on the 2 main DH runs. Top half of the red I really liked, ‘even’ on a 5″ FS
The black I liked too, though I didn’tquite fit trying the north shore option on the black DH.

No saddle/seatpost, flat tyres, cageless SPDs and SS didn’t stop mine being ridden off. Managed to follow the tracks over january muddy/clayey fields to the back before they stopped where some 4×4 marks started

Zip ties and old (ideally DH or FR) inner tube to rig up a ‘beef flap’ fork mounted spray guard. Else an RRP or MuckyNutz

Spare bolts of various sizes/lengths for your bike

Take apart your bike and clean/loctite/copperslip/torque everything as appropriate in the hope it’ll help reduce the chance of rattling your bike to bits

Powerlinks

Tick removal tool(s). IIRC European ticks carry lime disease. At least check yourself over after your shower. You’ll want the proper removal tool to reduce chance of getting limes

I read on here a while back greasing the back of your rotors (where it meets your hub) is supposed to help transfer heat away from the rotor a bit to deal with high heat in the rotors
Just be careful not to get any on the rotor bolt threads as IIRC loctite won’t work/set as well/not at all

If big rotors, check what your frame/fork are warrantied to
I was suprised to be told my 155mm FS frame is only warrantied to a 185mm rear rotor
Most rockshox forks are upto 210mm

Sintered pads only if its sopping wet IME, else they’ll build up heat much quicker

5mm of conical washers?
If they made up the 5mm to run a 185mm rotor onto a 180mm lyrik, then you’d have to run a 165mm rotor on a post mount 160mm fork?

Have a look on superstar for an idea on some types of chain devices to fit non ISCG tabbed bikes

Unless you’re ‘just’ riding on the road or smooth trails you’ll need some sort of chain device IME

If you don’t back pedal much at all then you’ll probably get away for the mostpart with just a top chaindevice, ie no lower roller/lower guide

Loads of different types of device

Whats actually wrong with this XTR mech?
Having removed it from the cabling does it not move freely any longer?

IME of shadow’s I’ve not broken a mech or a hanger since starting to use them. They also don’t keep knocking the chainstay as you rattle your way down rocky stuff like normal/old style mechs can

I bought a shadow on the basis I was bashing a normal mech and taking out hangers every 6months or so

What rims are these tyres for? And maybe what frame and fork for clearance?
Could be some suggestions are too fat to fit, or too fat that they’ll sit too round on your rims if they’re a bit narrow

Also what have you ridden before and which version? How do you get on with them?

Any maximum budget?

as above 160mm

If Rockshox(SRAM) had made it direct 180mm post mount it’d have been a PITA to fit 185mm Avid(SRAM) rotors