maybe something to do with the gearing being higher? ie if he was in bottom gear and tried to keep the same cadence, then he’d go faster than you if you also in bottom gear (Assuming bottom gear is the same) due to the wheel size?

Along with other factors of course

unlikely unless your definition of straight 1 1/8″ head tube encompasses some of the newer, still straight, but a bit bigger, but not as big as most* 1.5″ headtubes, eg 44/44mm?

*I believe (not sure) a 44mm headtube will accept a straight 1.5″ steerer fork with the right (external) headset cups?

“Eh – avid bleed process is pretty easy”
+1
Just read the instructions as you go along step by step, and it’ll go alright

“telegraph trail is also known as snakebite alley”
I thought I’d staved off the worst of my botched takeoffs on the slates, then got to the last rock cobbled bit (around a LH corner?) with a few too many drainage bars in quick succession for my tired arms/legs. cue puncture

Its fine, he says its a replica ..

“actually a dengfu FM098 frameset which is very similar to the s works venge (same geometry)”
Guessing its not exactly the same

“conti tubes – what would you recommend instead?”
Spesh 1.5-2.2″ (Around 150g) I got on okay with 2.35″ maxxis, could still pinch on occasion/stupid enough, but not like conti’s

Kenda upto 2.125″ Ive got onb better than contis, but still not great as far as I remember
bontrager upto 2.35″ similarly disapointing to conti. Both being quite small a tube before strething and thin walled

For bigger tyres (maxxis 2.25″/2.5″, michelin 2.15″ etc) on Mavic XM719s I’ve tried raliegh upto 2.125″ just because they’re thicker, and a bit bigger volume before stretching (also heavier (about 210g) and cheaper feeling, ie dont feel quite as stretchy). They do okay, up front it takes quite a high speed rock pinch (think mount famine on jacobs loop) at 35ish psi to pinch, on the rear anywhere decently rocky and ridden with enough gusto they’ll pinch (eg last bit of rushop edge before road)*
*Unless they were in Schwalbe Snakeskin tyres (2.25″ alberts) which seem to do a good job at warding off pinches much better than folding maxxis/michelin

In the end I’ve given in and gone to FR/DHlite tubes. Maxxis Freeride (2.2-2.5″) are okay and fit the tyre without stretching so much but are over 300g (about £9) and I reckon pinch more often than specialized 2.3-3″ DH tubes (~280g) which are also cheaper. (£5-6 some places)
*all weights I’m only going off kitchen spring balance scales, so by no means accurate, just ball-park figures

Thick tubes not the best solution, I too would like to go tubeless, just no got round to looking into it properly yet

“Uber stiff hardtails are bloody great, until you’re about 30

Odd, 34 now and they’re more appealing than ever”

Hmm, 24 now and they’re less appealing than ever, whats wrong with me?

I thought a C456 would have been suggested (bar a hint above) by now?
Or are they not stiff? Are they hughly?

“diameter of the dropout wouldn’t be sufficient to fit a 10mm axle”
If it wasn’t, what would it fit?
rear QR use 10mm axles

Iif it bothers you, afaik, the superstar 10mm thru axle is steel and heavyish. JustRidingAlong has the DT swiss 10mm for £30 atm and 49g

21mm internal rim with 2.35″? HR should be miles from problematic in terms of pinching ime. XC717s around the limit for 2.35″ (old tread) maxxis I reckon

What tubes though?
Not continental (upto 2.5″) or bontrager (upto 2.35″) were they? Both been a bit thin/small for me in the past

And what bike?
Hardtail and accidental heavy rear wheel weighting?
Full suss that doesn’t ramp up much (or ramps up a lot very quickly) and not quite enough air that it could pinch partially due to the way the suspension ‘works’

“unlucky and blown the damper twice in quick succession?”
What shock? you know, so I don’t buy one as I’m thinking of replacing my monarch RT3 (not for damping blowing up)

“should mojo repair the shock for a second time as it’s gone in a similar way?”
Did you buy the shock new from mojo?
Subject to being serviced within the sheduled, it should last the full warranty period?
It’d harly be right if you bought something with eg a 2year warrannty, it break in month 1, and replacement break in month 3 and it not be warrantied?

Not that relevcant but I’ve had a 2nd warrany set of spesh shoes after they broke around the cleat twice. Not the same but had a shock/brain, front triangle and rockers (reluctant) inside 3 years on a ‘lifetime’ spesh SJer FSR. Every time had the shock/brain serviced they sent a bag back with waht looked like all the internals ..

“air shocks in the Peaks/Lakes/Warncliffe with this much trouble?”
Not damping failures. I’ve got a leaking shock and fork atm though (both RS) which are annoying me

“What costs less? Upgrade people to RP23s or give them new frames? “
But do they have an account with fox?

dont think you’ll get a 10spd mech to work. Something different in the way the shifters pull, or something
Not sure a 10spd shifter and mech would work either as a 10spd mech fits onto the same width freehub as a 9 and 8

My SLX GS is fine to get wheel in/out. Not used a saint

“you’d think that these bikes would be tested for this kind of stuff!”
Guessing titus did, but with different/fox shocks?

So you had no notification that your road was to be closed?
Seems a bit off that

They’re some slack seat angles going on there

Extra 29″ bodge crown looks a lot less worrying than some of the cutaway crown pics I’ve seen before. Didn’t think they’d be room between it and the crown under bottom out

DS timing chain AND twin ring setup looks interesting too

SLX GS (short/medium cage) I think the cheapest, unless theres a short cage deore I never found when I looked
I’ve got one on my 2×9 main bike. A bit heavier than an XT but I’m not worried about bending an aluminium cage on an XT with a steel SLX
I’ve heard of others and myself bent an alu. cage XT on a hire bike before, but never my own XT one.

For my XC 1×9 I used a long cage (thats what I had) and chopped the chain to suit chainring/casette combo, such that the mech cage is nearly flat when in biggest sprocker and about straight down when in smallest sprocket
Isn’t too bad on chainslap though as I use it for less ‘agro’ trails (main FS is for that) it doesn’t get a fair test
Up front using only a top guide is more of a problem, how much of that is because its a superstar one I don’t know. A front mech with the low stop wound right in ime has worked better for the short time I used it

depends

a long cage (shimano or sram) should cover any chainring/casette combo

some mediums might cover certain (closer) chainring/casette combos
eg 42-32-22 with a 12-27T casette

check the tooth capacity of the rear mech. An slx GS 9spd is 35T iirc, whereas an XT 9spd GS is only 33T (not max casette sprocket, difference between small-small and big-big combo)
Not sure about sram

if you never want to use ‘wrong’ combinations like big ring-big sprocket and small ring-small sprocket and set the chain length to suit, then you could use a mech with a smaller tooth capactity

At one point (2008) Specialized were selling at least the ‘WSD’ Stumpjumper FSR with 44-32-22/11-34T chainring/casettes with medium cage (Sram) rear mechs. (website lists so too). So small-small combos meant the mech wasn’t taking the slack

+1 to northwind. older Maxxis come up small. 1.5-2.2 spesh tubes ive used fine in 2.35″ maxxis folders

a 2.25″ (new) maxxis however (as big as a 2.5″ old maxxis) I haven’t got to work welll with 1.5-2.2 tubes. They’re just too stretched

Something in my head is telling me it’d be usefull for commuting, for when its all snowy (but not icy .. )
Only trouble is I think I need to move also as I live within easy peazy walking distance from work
And I already have a slick tyred rigid bike that I used to commute by bike

I can barely justify my current bikes to myself even though apart from the main FS the others are either cast off, 2nd hand or too broken to sell parts

“just need the frame widening at the rear “

err

Bit more to it than that to get 4″ or so tyres into the back of a 26″ wheel HT. Wouldn’t it need all sorts of chopping up and rewelding new tubes into it

Be better to sell that frame and buy a fat bike frame?

started with WD40, since then they’ve changed the size of the red spray pipe and it doesn’t fit into the cable oiler

Since been using ‘maintenence spray’ by a couple of different makes (viking?). cant remember the names, its whatever work has

mine did this from new, the lockout did nothing also

sent back, got another one (around 6weeks later after, contact within that time before a thread on here)
afaik it ‘works’ as it should. Though rebond range could be wider to allow for a faster setting imo and the compression range is limited also, nothing like a lockout

Oh and mine leaks air. Serviced (air sleeve) with the stuff rockshox reccomend. Stays up over the course of a ride, but its not all there when I come to ride it next

“pretty dull riding IMO”
The red, I can see that, the black I couldn’t agree, the old black has some pretty good bits in it, though the signage isn’t all there. I’m not completely sure If I’ve never ridden some sections of it

“Pretty smooth and fast”
I can see its supposed to be. Some sections can feel a bit washed out and rough/rubbly that makes flattish bits of trail a bit of a pointless chore than a fast pedally bit

Red is pretty long, add in some messing about in dixons hollow and you can be pretty tired near the end

Michelin dry2’s spring to mind

Feel confident to lean them over and crank upto speed on them on dryish trails. Not draggy feeling so putting in that extra pedalling effort doesn’t feel like its going to be wasted by the next corner, and much more confident feeling to lean into turns unlike my last 70a crossmarks ..
^must also apply to other fast/non draggy but grippy tyres

going 1×9. 34: 11-32. (on the XC bike( No choice but to crank it uphill when they’re no more gears left. spinny up top. Not faffing about with the front mech. Just click away and pedal. Not really used for (m)any sustained ‘proper’ hilly and rough rides however

from up there:
http://singletrackworld.com/reviews/genesis-io

I know there are no bar ends, but it looked that way, sort of

Thats a big stem change?
Very long especially with a 36?
If anything looks like the frame could be longer on the SC too?

Ii s’pose the long stem is in keeping with the bar ends ..

“really hard to justify anything but Pro2’s though if you can afford them”
I dont’ think I could live with the level of noise they make. I know I could pedal more, but then I could get a fixed hub if I wanted to do that
Also, the freehub pickup speed could be better on a pro2. Yes they’re faster than a 2004 XT, deore or standard DTswiss, but SLX, 2008/2012 XT, upgraded DT and more (dmr? stans? amclassic?) are bit faster pickup again
If they could double the pickup speed to 48points like the pro2 singlespeed then I might consider one, though maybe buy some earplugs with the wheelbuild ..

won’t clear the horst link?
You’re doing something wrong ..
The rocker link on the other hand

I asked tftuned about something to fit my 193.7/41.3mm ’07 SJer FSR carbon and in the end opted to have the afr serviced again ..
(the options they suggested would have meant the rockers smashing the back of the seattube or losing/gaining something like 1/2″ travel/BB height). Since I reckon if they’d suggested offset bushes it might have been possible to make something work

(on paper) you ought to be able to get a 200x50mm shock internally spaced down to 44.5mm** stroke and then an offset bushing* or two** to offset 3mm to get the i2i to 197mm

*as above there could be issues around the rocker link mounting?

**The thing with SJer FSR’s (pre 2008) will be making sure the rockers bottom out at the right point, making sure they can’t hit the back of the seattube/’ladies legs’. Might take a couple of calculations just to be sure you’re don’t go buying something that not fit properly

has on one still got £40 hubs? having only seen them on their site I’ve no idea if they’re cup/cone or cartridge thohgh. Guessgin cartridge going by 10mm thru-axle but not impossible they’re not cup/cone?

“our lovely climate and local sticky stuff”

and where is that?

A 2.4″ Schwalbe Big Betty on an Alex FR rim (ie wide) will fit under a ‘power bulge’ Revelation, though not much room for claggy mud nor an RRP spray guard

Guessing Revs/sektor use the same lowers, though rebas are different?

A 2.4″ BB I’ve not seen side-by-side with a 2.4″ advantage. A 2.4″ BB dwarfs a 2.25″ advantage (only on an XM719), so guessing your combo will work

arch on switch weigh 1900g?
(arch or arch ex? and black or white?)

what spokes/nipples are they built with?

Not that I have anything proper to go by, but that seems heavy?
Seem to think I read pro 2’s on flows were ~ 1900g? Switch rear should be about the same, front only ~20g more?

Not me/my socks

A friend of mines ‘solution’ to trousers vs. a big chainring ..

actually a (budget) mtb. my slicked up 21.5″ gate:

and post showing aplenty:


When my last FS frame broke last, I opted to put the bits onto this ‘play’ bike instead of my XC hardtail. Was fun downhill, though with blurred vision at speed, it was so slack it still felt completely stable despite saddle fully up
Uphill it was very cramped, even with 90mm stem ..

“Upgrades will bring the weight down over time”
upgrades like the frame?

I seem to think I’ve saw a weight of the X5/£800 29er build in one of the mags and said it was 32lbs

Frame size will make a difference too. Won’t neccessary be 2.495kg or whatever

Im not in the pics (bike in one), I cant/didnt ride most of them. My brother (As per pics) can ..

Ruts in line with the trail? Try riding some rutted downs in the peak district

“Third drop on cadon bank at inners”
Was so chuffed when Ii did that, never thought I would
2nd time to inners, bottled the first one 2 or 3 times, managed to make myself, then bottled 2nd, managed it, bottled 3rd a couple of times and then did it. Felt big (to me)
Probably couldn’t do it now, despite ‘bigger’ bike

Though if I hadn’t managed to make myself do ladder #3 at gt bikepark and off the end of the box at the end the day before, I’d probably not have done #2 at caddon bank

this, though i think everyone will struggle since they tore it down ..

this:

though the boarded angled thing at GT bikepark (after the 3 raised skinnies by the tables) I can clear

since this happened (gained too much speed, too much for the corner here), scree’s:

doubles, however small:

though given I’m not confident on most tables* that’ll have something to do with it. *the new ones (left/easy side) at dalby Im good with, not many others

I panic braked at the last second on this one and had an off. I had the speed to clear easily but something in my head said braking at the last minute was the better option

couldn’t make myself do this corner:

this:

though I think that one needs to hop the back end round

this i fluke rode and then fell off, so avoided after

angled jumps, of the same size a normal not too ramped jump I could do

and as per here, when there is something to jump over. I guess the commitment/speed to clear the tree scares me

the run out on this I didn’t like the look of, very narrow, not straight in line with the steep. Plus surrounded by rocks:

“”benefits from less diesel emissions”
Do you mean because the diesel trains + container hub construction/operation would make less emissions than all the door-door trucks? Rather than electric freight trains? AFAIK there aren’t a lot of electric freighters in use, nor more importantly many electric routes for freight trains to use? Also requires more complex container hubs as overhead eclectrics cant go under cranes/container fork trucks

“Ban all truck from anything other than the inside lane, yup that means no overtaking, anywhere
..
Ban caravans from overtaking”

Eeven with your 1/4 mile slip roads, at busy periods will the car traffic actually be able to get on/off the motorway? Or will they be using the lorries braking space they ought to leaving between one another?

When people go slower than 56mph (lorry speed), ie cars with trailers/caravans who dont realise they can do 60mph* on the motorway, 40mph cranes, the army at 50mph, heavily loaded lorries uphill, are not going to be able to be overtaken
given the way UK drivers dont seem to be able to work out/second guess how fast other vehicles are travelling (try following a tractor) its likley you’re going to have a stop/start or slow down/speed up brake effect whenever the train of lorries hit anything slower? Which would make getting on/off the sliproads harder?

“Then make truck drive through the night so they are not on public roads between the hours 0630 – 2030 (trucks over 7.5tons)”
So all trucks will have to parked up for 14hours on private land/laybys? as they’re not allowed on public roads whatsoever. So industry will have to somehow make space for all lorries to be parked up for these 14hours
For anything on continuous short runs and/or time sensitive loads (eg concrete)
have to run at night and so too the to and from sites?
eg cement mixers to building sites? Building projects have to be at night? Tarmac and other loads thbat ‘go off’?
eg grain lorries doing runs from nearish farms to ports have to loaded at night?
many more egs, not coming to the too of my head atm
Recovery lorries cant recover lorries that break down at 6am? nor busses in the day time?

Essentially either industry either has to then work at night, or you require loads more lorries and lorry parking while they get to load OR unload once in the day and drive onto the next place in the nght?”