Surfboard.
Surprisingly nice for the money and my first Bulova.

Technicalities of the brakes aside, yes biketart are good.
Had a bike off them last year, best customer service I’ve experienced for a long time when ordering mail order, even with a fault that wasn’t their doing.

That Seiko LX SNR041J1 is gorgeous and probably my favourite in that line up.

Doesn’t bother me that it has Seiko/Prospex on the dial rather than GS. It doesn’t need to be from the GS range does it, it’s a very good quality seiko in its own right with a great movement.
Guess some people need to have more higher end branding on their watches to justify to others how much it cost.

At the price its going for I dont think its a bad buy at all. If I had the spare cash I’d be thinking about it too, would definitely love to try a springdrive someday.

Looks smart kimbers, will check out the lights.

For those that have run battens on the aluminium glazing supports, which way have you run the second (inner) set, perpendicular to the first or screwed directly in line?
If I do them perpendicular I’m thinking this may send the soffit boards in the wrong direction im wanting, unless I do the second set of battens at 300mm centres to catch the edge of each board. 300mm centres seems like overkill and too much wood though?

That last question may seem harder to understand than what I’m actually trying to describe :-) I’ll try and get some pics up.

Interesting re. the superquilt @matt_outandabout I thought it was reasonably well regarded and efficient for its thickness. I guess I could use Kingspan sheets and fasten to the battens. Just seems most conversion companies use the superquilt type insulation, it’s not exactly cheap stuff either is it?

Yes, thanks @DaveP I think I saw your photos/info on another thread? Did you do the roof too? Any issues long term?

I’m currently looking to try and insulate the roof (internally) on my conservatory.
Found a few threads (been a great help and some nice inspiration too) on here where folk have done it.

I did want to reply to @Damascus original thread as that is similar to what I want to do albeit with upvc cladding/hollow soffit boards instead of plasterboard/skim, but it’s locked as a few years old now…

So for those that have insulated internally how has it faired over the years? Any issues at all, particularly with condensation?

Mine is a full glass roof, not polycarbonate (ultraframe, so decent quality). I’d be looking to batten out (treated 2×1) on the underside of the aluminium glazing bars, insulate with YBS superquilt (they do a conservatory specific one which is white on one side now) seal with foil tape to create a vapour barrier, batten out again and cover with the 300mm wide upvc hollow soffit lengths (the t&g type). I think this would be the lightest in weight method of doing it.

In addition to this has anyone vented the void between the underside of glass and insulation, I found one company that does this (looks like on the plastic bars/strips that the end on the glass is supported on nearest the guttering), but no real info found? If a proper vapour barrier is created though to prevent warm air getting above is it necessary?

Also I’m thinking of applying film to the internal side of the glass before doing the insulation work, mainly so the insulation can’t be seen from above (maybe not as critical if I get the insulation which is white on one side) and also I believe if it’s the correct stuff it will help reflect uv/prevent as much heat build (my glass is coated already coated though).

Main reason is so it’s more usable in summer. If it helps in winter too then that would be great but we do have a log burner in there (and rad but it’s valved off a lot of the time). I’d been thinking of getting a proper lightweight warm roof on there but costs are quite high and reluctant to spend that on it at the minute.

Will also be adding some form of lighting in there, I like the led strip idea and also the led panels as per @kimbers , where’s the best place to source this sort of kit from (ie. reliable well made stuff)?

Thanks and pics always appreciated.

Also to add the most comfiest wheel/tyre combo I’ve had on my van (and are back on now) are the 18″ sportlines with 255/45r18 (standard factory size). This is after having 2 sets of 20’s (tried both 265/40 and 275/35), 2 different sets/widths of 17’s and 16’s over last winter.

When you asked originally I did recommend to avoid the Devonports with the commercial rated tyres (ie. anything with 215/65) and find a set fitted with 235/55 (factory fit on certain vans/cali’s).
Anything with commercial rated tyres will ride hard compared to a normal tyre hence why you aren’t really seeing much improvement over the 19’s.
I wouldn’t bother looking into heavier duty rims, those Devonports are ideal. I’d look at sticking a slightly oversize 225 or 235/65r17 all terrain style (don’t go too extreme, general grabber or something) on there if you want a bit more cushioning and grip on fields etc. Just be careful with clearance if going 235/65r17…

They’ve been that price for a while now, I’m still tempted tho! Think the kidz call them wheelie bikes…

Anyone had any issues with the Fox kit on there? Rear shocks failing or creaking 36’s??

How about a Cotic Jeht?

Their bronze build went online the other day and comes in at £3049 with Hunt wheels. I’d rather deal with them than a lot of the big mail order brands.

T160 is on sale and currently in budget at Leisure Lakes with no fee to pay when using cyclescheme.
Balfes bikes don’t charge a fee on their sales bikes either when using cyclescheme and they had some T160’s in at a similar price the other day (or even a G-180 of you’re considering a Sommet).

A lot will charge 5% or 10% on top of the sale price so bear that in mind.

Yes I always tend to tape chainstays up. It looks a simple frame with no frills to me, but you can’t argue with the spec and geo.

Got a new SLX mech in the garage that I may drop on yet with the shifter off my hardtail and move the new nx stuff on to that…

Much appreciated @weeksy I’m up north (ish) and looking at an S4, but cheers anyway!

Can’t see anything else that touches it for the money (and trying to limit myself to sub 3k). Weight wise other comparable stuff seems in the same ball park too.

Cheers all.

Yes @chapaking I agree. I may have worded it wrong, I meant looking at the geo of the Status(other than short rear end/small wheel) it should climb similar to my old aluminium E29 which I thought climbed well for it’s travel, I did some reasonably big rides on that.

It’s the Float X rear shock on the new ones @weeksy think this has a 2 pos climb switch??
Do you run yours in the high or low setting?

We all know what they are designed for and it’s dh ability/playfulness isn’t in question. Wouldn’t want one as full on enduro bike where all out speed is required due to the short rear but for injecting a bit of fun and playfulness back into my riding i think it looks ideal.

Just want to make sure it’s usable for 3 hr rides from the front door too.
Can’t see it being worse than my old Enduro 29er, just not sure how the smaller rear wheel affects it.

Also do all 38’s (fox) suffer from creaking issues?

Guess it’s a combination of new regs and tec Pro barriers, but yes didn’t look like a huge impact did it (again maybe because of tec pro).

Bulkhead definitely not compatible with your requirements.
I wouldn’t worry about noise. Sound deaden and insulate behind the panels and carpet line, either the whole lot or just panels. Can sound deaden cab and rear floor too under standard rubber cab mats/flooring of your choice (or both in my case).

On the T6 the airbag is specific for the double seat so perfectly safe enough.

They are one of the most uncomfortable things you will ever sit on though. Brackets are available to give more lean on the backrest and fold it flat, but if you can get away with a single passenger up front then 100% do that.

If you went down the rear seat on rails approach you can have the rear seat pushed up towards the front seats so that your young one will not be any further away than they would be in a normal car, then when you park up for the day slide it all the way back – it’s a 2 second job with the caravelle/california type seats/rails. They also have isofix if that’s reqd too.

As said may have to build, can’t think of anything factory with rear seats on rails.
VW T5/t6/t6.1 panel van with caravelle/california rails and caravelle 3 seater installed, put some cheapo non opening windows in the required positions.

Or find a Kombi with a double passenger up front and add one of the many types of Kombi beds for the rear when seats folded. Obviously that won’t get you the space you require in the ‘living area’ due to not being able to slide the rear seats.

@chapaking

Don’t think it’s the super deluxe on the Slash 7, this is what the spec sheet says;

RockShox Deluxe Select+, DebonAir spring, Select+ RL damper, 230×62.5 mm

Super deluxe on the next model up (8) I think, but I believe that one is thru shaft (the 7 isn’t) which I’m not fussed about.

Good timing.
The Trek slash 7 I’m looking at has this rear shock I believe.
Is the megneg suitable for the ‘custom tuned for Trek’ ones too?

Yes looked at the Slash 8. Definitely better on the front and rear shock specs but unfortunately it’s out of budget and it’s sram, ideally was after shimano drivetrain/brakes.

Cheers all. Will look at the damper upgrades.

Anyone got any comments on how the new Slash rides, ideally the aluminium version?

@silasgreenback how did you get on with regard to chainline on your 1x set ups? Do any of the chainrings have offset in them to help?

Cheers.

Think I’ve found all the bits.
I can get a Hope chainring for a fiver more than than a superstar one, or some cheapo ones on ebay for about 18 quid…

Which 10spd chain would you recommend, anything, or stick with shimano?

Awesome, cheers @silasgreenback
Re. The mech, it seems fine other than a bit of play around the main bolt where it mounts on the frame so will just go with it for now as shifts ok on the turbo at the minute.

Apologies for the thread hijack (and looks like you’re now sorted Kuco) but what are my options for going 1x on 10spd Road stuff?

Got an old cannondale caad8 that needs an overhaul and I’m wanting to go 1×10 on it, currently got 105 on it (other than cranks).

It may need a new rear mech at some point so with the 1×10 in mind what’s the best mech to go for so I can run a 40 or 42 cassette? Or failing that what cassette and other mods would I need to make the 105 work?

Cheers.

Somewhat of a ‘bitsa’ but overall nice vintage feel, especially with the US z199.
Birth year/month serial too.

Continuing the white dial seamaster theme:

Not particularly common though :-)

Haha, definitely not Devenport either. It’s amazing how many different ways people can spell Devonport.

Re. The 215 vs 235 comfort wise, you prob missed my point. It’s not the tyre size specifically, it’s the type/load rating of those two specific tyres that I was talking about. The 215’s being commercial rated and the 235’s being a more car/suv based tyre….

I’ve had both, prefer the Devonports with 235 tyres, you do see more sets that come with the 215’s though. Not sure what determines which vans came with what from the factory? Maybe panel vans came with the commercial tyres and Caravelles, Cali’s (maybe kombi’s) etc with the 235’s…?

Its Devonport NOT Davenport, just incase you are searching for a set :-)

They come with 2 different tyre sizes from the factory. 215/60 on a commercial tyre (goodyear or conti, goodyear being the best but hard to come by) and 235/55 on a 103 rated tyre (ie. non-commercial car tyre, Bridgestones only iirc).
The 235’s ride better than the 215’s as the commercial ones can be a bit hard/stiff sidewall (but should last longer)…

Bargain for around 500 a set with delivery mileage.

I’m a big fan of the GP steels (17″), look good, especially banded, but need to be low(ish)….

Yes, from your questions I think you’d be happier on an oem set. I’m a big fan of devonports, currently running some sportlines (18″) on mine but maybe looking to change.

I think the big brakes clear (on a t6 anyway) on the 17″ devonports.

What width (wheels I mean) are the rears by the way?

What’s your biggest concern with them? Load ratings, stretched tyres or cost of tyres?

I think they look good and black wheels always suit a red van.

You sure that’s a 45 profile on the rear?? Remember the 45 is a percentage of the width and even for allowing for the stretch (which makes the sidewall look less) it’s a lot smaller sidewall than the fronts look.
Be odd to run a bigger rear tyre dia. usually you’d go wider width and lower profile for the rear on a staggered set…

Do you like the wheels is the first question?

Staggered do look good on transporters (as the rear track is narrower and it helps fill the arches), but if you want fit and forget with cheap tyres get some oem 17’s, devonports or something. They can be had for £500 with delivery mileage on them and you can go as low as you want.

@Scienceofficer has it spot on with his first lengthy ramblings ;-)

This thing is nuts, you just got to know how to ride it..

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Johnson’s top to toe :-) seemed like the most ‘normal’ shampoo-like, so it’ll all of probably fell off by the morning :-)

I just followed the invisiframe video. Make sure everything is spotless (there is a few fibres in mine I couldn’t get rid of, no idea how they got there, it seems to happen when I had to re-position a couple of bits). Wet everything, hands, both sides of the helitape and the frame and then squeegee squeegee squeegee. It will stick at some point just keep at it.

Excuse the mess, I had to move into the conservatory (which is full of kids toys and clothes drying of course) as the garage was a bit dark and cold.
Had a few hours at it, quite a satisfying job really. Still got the seatstays, BB and l/h chainstay to do.

Cheers all. I’ve used 5ml to 800ml water as per the instructions.