Never too old. My grandpa started violin at 60 odds. In addition to being pretty good on the guitar, piano, trumpet and a couple of other instruments. I think he was aiming for the one man band type. 🙂

If its in gear and reving rapidly without gaining speed then something is slipping. If its not the tyres and its not the gears, as they would be crunching, then surely its the clutch.
My mates focus has started doing the same thing in 5th as his clutch is on the way out. It will get worse, possibly rapidly depending on how aggressively you drive.

There's just something about it that doesn't sit right. I'm not sure if its the Nissan headlights if the mishmash grill/spoiler – too many grills. The Whole car looks dated to me already.
IMHO of course. 😉

The 'endurance' events that we do in Scotland can feel like and endurance enduro depending how much you enjoy the downs. AFAIK 900ft per lap at the Strathpuffer for 24 hours. 😉

It seems that some people are talking about hobs.
A separate oven and hob is a good idea and ideally(for me) an electric fan assist oven and gas hob.
The built in option is much nicer looking IMHO but if you go for that insist that the installer puts a remote switch and method to access the Oven fixings so that it can be maintain/repaired/replaced. You would think this obvious but builders will cut corners.

I can see this enduro/endurance think becoming common. 🙂

I'm entered for Ae.
Looking to do Stramash if it goes ahead this year and I'm considering The Kona Mash up at Glentress and Afan.
I'd definitely be interested in any others getting arranged. I'll need to save my pennies and enter a proper Euro one.

Wonderful trail. Was there on Saturday.

'the return just never really flows for me'

I disagree. The return is like a rollercoaster ride. Granted if your tired it can feel difficult but if you have enough energy then its brilliant.
I recommend starting at McMoab and doing it from half way. Then you get to stop at the cafe half way round and you are fully charged for the best part of the trail. The first climb may hurt though. 🙂

Great looking bike. Original and uncommon. There was a seller with medium 09 frame for £500 in the classifieds a couple of weeks ago, I was very tempted but they look to size up quite big. 🙁 I I'd have one if I could justify the spend.
Value wise I would say they are particularly good. You can get a new Specialised enduro for £2000.
Still, lovely bikes!

I find that a proper stretch after hard work out, ie, a warm down does wonders for my muscles the next day. I suppose the idea of compression wear is that you don't have to do as much warm down as they squeeze all the excess lactate out.

Out last night on almost frozen solid ground. Loads of grip. Nice and fast.

Winter is better than spring and Autumn when its properly wet.

+1 Scruff.
Many architects will scale the drawing when sending or work in meters so when you import to ACAD working in mm it is tiny.

I just leave the mount on all winter, twisting under the bar on day rides.
take it off for summer. Got two extra bar mounts and extra ties with the kit. I've still not used up the extra zipties that I got with the kit. I've had the kit 3 winters now. Maybe a bit different if you are swapping between bikes.
I did one see a pic where someone had cut the ends off the standard mount and bolted it to a cateye type QR mount.

I was under the impression that the new line would follow/replace the existing power lines, granted with larger pylons. The ground works to bury that much capacity would take decades and be as much of an eyesore for that time.
Also, from the Diagram above much of the Cairngorm power lines will be downscaled or removed.
I'm not totally up to speed on this but it seams a sensible and considered decision.

I appreciate your honesty. So how long have I got now? 😕

PP. I am the one committed to buying the Pikes. I said I would pay and you said you were not in a rush when I explained that very day that I was setting up my Bank account to put money into pay pal to pay you by this method.
I'm sorry If this is longer than you would like but did say you were not in a rush. I'm surprised that in two days you are already feeling impatient.

Was trying to remember as I don't have my bike to hand but I think I remember the same thing when I first put them on my bike. When I looked closely at the axle it is slightly wider at the drive side end, stopping it inserting right into the BB. So there is couple of mm visible. Seams to be the way it is. My BBs have lasted a year each so far. Not great but not bad considering some of the bad reviews ext BBs get.

+1 Crazy legs. Sounds the right idea(s)

Coming from Switzerland? Unless you specifically like DH runs I'd do Kirroughtree and Mabie first in the area then Ae. GT and Inners are also worth the extra journey.

Also, Why does the Maxle version of everything cost so much more? Is it just fashion inflated prices?

Have you considered this years 20mm recon 351s? ~£325
Solo air just and non U-turn but basically a Pike air 426.

All the way west as well rob. Glasgow is a violently shaken snowglobe right now.

I'm currently looking to upgrade from a 130mm rev to a 140mm bolt through. I've been considering the Pike for a while but it is heavy. I'd love a new 150mm Rev but I'm loath to pay the ridiculous price and I've also heard of some early teething problems as with the lyrik when it first came out.

So what do the STW massive think of this selection instead of the coil pike?
Recon solo air 20mm

Marzocchi 55R knocked down to 140mm
Marzocchi 55 ATA

Or someone sell me a good condition Pike for £200. 😀

Very nice. Looks a bit long in the photo.
I prefer the look of the Ariel.

It would definately be better to opt for a 200×50. Then you might want to consider some longer forks to balance the front end and slacken the angle for quality trail bike (stumpy fsr 140).
muah ha ha ha…..

AS PP says. There will be no difference with the bike uncompressed. Everything will stay the same until you bottom the shock out, at which time it may hit the frame.
FSR suspension needs the minumum pro pedal setting but spesh are renowned for there specific settings so its a gamble buying anything and expecting it just to work.
In saying all that check the specs on the higher models, it may just work. at least phone TFT or like and get an opinion.

Most DH are doable on a trail type bike. I'd recommend a slack fork with about 140mm travel. DH courses are much steeper over all than any red or black trail. they are great fun if a little daunting at first. Have fun.

I've had Juicy 7's for the last three years and they have been fine. Bled twice and only cause I wanted to more than the fact I needed to.

Far too much consideration for tyres going on here but my 2 pence worth.
HR or Ignitor Front
Cross mark rear.
or even faster:
Crossmark front
Larssen Rear.

Shouldn't be a problem. I'm running 28s on my bike and there is enough clearance.
Roadracers are simple as to set up.

Definately hit and miss with the misses seaming (pun intended) to be gaining the upper hand. Shame.
Fox clothing is of a similar price to the higher end Endura clothing and probably better styling.

In the first place that frame looks a bit small for you. Your seat looks very high unless you have disproportionately long legs for your body. It may just be the photograph itself though. Perhaps not necessarily small bbut it does look very short.
On paper the stem isn't too long for your riding and fork size but the best thing to do is get yourself down to your local, respected, bike shop and ask for their opinions and to try another stem size.
If you already like or need the reach then a layback post and 20mm less stem will help while moving your centre of gravity back.

Its not really about 'lifting' the front wheel as in a wheelie. I find the best thing is to push the bike 'forward'. For me this un-weights the front, prolonging your time on the ground with your back wheel.
I think its much the same as what is described above. An appropriate speed is essential to get you rolling off the lip. Try it off larger kerbs first and try to land with both wheels together.

Liners under normal gloves or ideally windproof gloves are more than warm enough for me. I do generate a lot of heat when I'm cycling though.
Also gives you the benefit of fine tuning your insulation.

I'll welcome the end of the dérailleur when they put the unit/gears in the BB or frame intead of the wheel so that its part of the suspended weight and more centralised. Until then I'll stick to my lighter weight dérailleur – however, all in weight must be getting pretty close these days.

Endura do the Stealth lite tights and bibs. Proper water proof and non fleeced but quite pricey.

Why did you buy a freestyle? Surely a standard plug would have had all the changed items on it as oem.
Have you swapped it over to fixed yet? I felt it was the next logical step when I first went fixed 3 months ago.

Obviously Boardinbob's first time.
I've found the best thing to do re. camping is unload your car at the camp site, setting up your tent and sleeping kit then take the car down to the main carpark where it will be there with all your race kit come the morning.
Go up the Gondola for dinner then cycle back up to the campsite to Drink and sleep as you see fit.
Granted the camp site has been a bit moist in the past and a bit noisy for those that want sleep.
Also agree that much of the course feels very fireroad based to make up the distance but the single track sections are good.

I ride mainly SPD's after many years on flats and while my technique for manuals (not that I could ever properly do them) and hops has suffered I can get back to a reasonable standard after a couple of rides. Flats will allow you to abandon the bike if all is going wrong and this may give you the confidence to try bigger obstacles.
I wouldn't say they are better, but they could be safer.

Tyre I'm running is the new Bontrager XR4. Similar sizes to new Maxxis'
not too bothered on weight, but I don't see any point going heavier than the mavic. Any suggestions on other rims?