160/95, UK wasn’t worried by that for as long as I can remember but first annual checkup in the US got me a prescription of Nadalol.

I bought 6 Hope hubs last year rebuilding some of the fleet, now I want all new ones, despite the ones I have probably lasting until I am needing an ebike.

Nice update, basically catching up on some details but overall package will be great.

No fat bike ones yet, a bit of weight saving would help there and the larger bearings should last longer in the cold grim conditions.

Good looking bikes.   Doesn’t seem to be a scam but a chain of events leading to here.

Any form of business must have been really tough recently but relying on investors for what is likely a small amount in their portfolio must be even more difficult.

Last year I would have said 5.  This year I can now say 6.

120mm full sus

fat bike

gravel

xc

road

pub/steel flat bar

Plenty of gaps there still  it all of this see fairly regular outings at the moment.

The new stuff for sure.

Slack forks with steep seat angle, very few look good.

Then offenders like Marin add some crazy suspension layout.

-25C at the moment in Chicago with 35mph gusts which really finds the gaps in clothes/stupid wooden houses/etc

It’s not going to be for long this time.

I have a 10-52 on my fat bike running shimano XT 12sp.

Works fine.

But I want AXS now…

Agreed, I was only pondering this problem as a took the last full lid pie from the tub.

Given enough to drink, one evening I think I may have a little experiment with the cheese/alcohol/cream options.
Probably using one of the star shaped tops as a victim.

Do it on my gravel bike with gravel/road wheels and fat bike with studded/non studded.

Same hub is a good idea, I also found out not all shimano brake discs are equal and had to shift a few around with other bikes to get a set that lined up for the gravel bike.

I let the chain go to 0.5mm and haven’t had any issues with slipping etc so don’t swap the chain over.

I don’t have many pubs around me since moving to the US but my 2008 Roadrat is now the pub bike.

Occasion steel only club runs, rides with the kids, runs to the shops etc..

Bought for about 450 out of the classifieds around 2011, plenty of commuting done and only put on grips, chains, gears and new balls in the rear hub.

Rust, cables outers are split, grips worn through and a brand no one knows.
Old XT group set and made out of old pipe, it should outlast me.

My youngest loves his Roscoe. I ride my Farley with him and he feels invincible on his mini fat bike.

It works for us.

He has some mega heavy/treaded Kenda El Capos on it.
I guess they were emptying every warehouse they could find in time for last Christmas.

Trek Checkpoint and set the wheelbase short. 2 sets of wheels.

I have a Crockett too which delivers but feels a bit short in the frame for long road blasts.

As long as it’s not a crazy plastic clad lump of iron, a bike they want to get on is important.
Think spec, generally avoid suspension and 1x is usefully light/simple. (Providing it’s a wide range cassette)

I just got a Trek Roscoe 24 for my 7 year old as he loves having a small fat bike.

Others will love the speed of a crossover.

I try and limit risk on this.
With tyres that sit well on the rim I use tape. Stan/Sun Ringle etc.

If the tyres are a little loose or start to leak I now tend to take the easy option and use fatty strippers.
They really are fit and ride with confidence.

Mine gets more miles year round than my full sus.

As an only bike I expect I would need suspension forks to swap in for the summer.

I expected the battery to be better on my 130 due to the screen, but it started to drop off after a year.
It dropped out after about 70miles on a century.

Bought a 530.
The battery is incredible, I charge it occasionally and that’s with riding most days.

Read a few reports about people being disappointed with the Solaris max. This is heavier and more downhill focussed but gets praise for its climbing.

The Yeti, the Fat Chance and those Adroits!!!!!

Golden era, probably only due to my impressionable age at the time.

I am going to order some purple Hopes now.

Guilty. Although I am living in the US so it may not count….

I bought a new Farley this year as it seemed most options were being discontinued.
Definitely bikes that add some fun to any ride. Wouldn’t be too upset if it was my only mountain bike, although I would likely add some front suspension at that point.

We are in the US and just got the Mini as a second car and it seems great so far.
It’s a bit of fun but probably compromised for most people though.
Still will do more miles on a tiny tank than my Wrangler.

Also out of budget. I guess the Toyota’s and Mitsubishi are the ones most available?

My Roadrat is running a 2006 XT groupset.

Not sure on the miles and not too much mud but plenty of winters.

1 set of chainrings, a number of cassettes and chains.

Bb is original and although the cranks are a bit creaky it will do a few miles yet.

I went XD. Couldn’t wait and wasn’t swapping out my Hope!!

Shimano should have opened the standard right away.

I can’t see it being problematic due to the spline size/shape. The noose is likely from something else.

Just got into the races, and have crossed into C. Cant believe I will ever get to B, but it’s a long winter….

Starting to run out of ratio, running my Roadrat with 46/11 on a wheel on smart trainer.

Would going direct drive and rigid road frame get me some free watts?

I went with a 130 as I like the simple display and small size.
It’s has done everything I expected. A little compromised for screen size if you want to connect lights or track tons of performance data.

Plus
Buttons are good for when it’s wet or using while moving. Display has always been clear.
Never really had any software or connection issues.

Minus
Battery indicator appears to do what it wants(although did do most of a day while navigating so total batt life is good), the mapping is tough to follow with a number of roads or turns in the same area as it only shows the one to take.

Fully bought into garmin now with a watch and scale.
Lots of people on the last big team ride I did were using wahoo. If you can get full maps and keep buttons for control At a good price it’s probably a good thing.

08 Roadrat. doesn’t seem old, just need to use it for the right kind of riding.
09 Five. still feel at home on it, but when up against newer fs the lack of dropper, stability and stiffness sometimes make it feel old. Fox sent me a newer model shock when I sent mine in for service last year as they didn’t carry the parts for the original any more.
Now it’s 10yo, like Essel I was tempting myself with a four as a more modern replacement. taper steerer, large seat tube, 34/6mm forks and boltthrough. (Jury is out on wheelsize)

Fat and CX bikes are both 2016 and likely to still around for a long time unless I win the lottery.

Compatibility with some of the new toys particularly the lack of 27.2 droppers for XL frames will likely see me swap the five out.
(Despite the pleasure of still gapping carbon wonder steeds on some rides)

Hmm, but will it end up as decoration rather than selling it on.

It think a lot of us have the same thought.

I use my fatbike quite a lot and if it’s a good ride I want a hard tail. Otherwise I remember the pain and want a FS.

What about the spider?

Super strange to be looking for pain but I did 3 races here in Chicago last year.
Bunch of very serious people riding but spectating its a different story.

Usually cold enough to be frozen ground here or at least fairly hard. I did last year on my 2009 Roadrat commuter. The amount of bacon I got offered because the locals thought I was riding with my forks were on backwards was incredible. Thanks to Cy front caliper design.

Got a cross bike off eBay for this year, will probably be slower. It’s a 2x so I can use as a road/gravel bike too without fiddling.

Good thing here other that not incredible mud everywhere, the cat5 I have been doing was 25mins and finish the lap. Almost manageable.

Enjoying using mine.
Screen is clear and works in the rain, 820 with touchscreen isn’t quite as good in sun or rain.

Thinking about the comments, the battery indicator on mine is all over the place, turning it on after a full charge may only give 2 blobs sometimes. but I have done 3x 30miles rides on separate days with segments, HR and cadence sensors connected without running out of power.

I just did mine, cut the end off the hose and use the new fittings.

Has to be tightened up fairly well to stop it weeping.

Bursitis?

I find using a roller on my IT band the only way to help it.

Had endless joy with Shimano brakes and now think this is happening on my cx bike. Oily rear disc.

The Hope looks soooooooooo nice.

I am the same height and have a 21.5 Farley which fits great.

I prefer riding a bigger bike which goes against the trend but it works for me.

Best time to swap is when you need forks which are now tough to get hold of for straight steerer.

Also do a few test rides to see if you notice the difference of a new bike.
Through axles and more rigid forks are nice to have as is new suspension tech.

Lower and longer sometimes not so much if you don’t want to keep hitting pedals.

That’s it, just tighten the cone slightly loose.

Try it with the correct number of balls and see if the cone can tighten onto the balls.
Hub assembly on my recent few islabikes has been poor.
Also just bought a used 16 and they are way too tight and I am sure then have never been roughed.

I have an 09 which flexes quite a bit.

Later ones have a few modifications in the dropouts and the tubes are large.
Carbon fork will save weight too.
Never had trouble with the sks mudguard running 32mm tyres.

Again, it’s done many 000’s of miles and still looks good. Finish is a few steps above the mainstream brands.

Chevy made no MOPARs.  Just poor copies.

Have just built some Hope Fatsno and Nextie 65mm rims for my 2015 Trek Farley.  Stuck with a 4” tyre with the frame so made sense to save some weight on the rim.

Along with a Trek Haru carbon fork off a later model it’s transformed the steering and eliminated any self steering which I got once below about 8psi.

Conditions aren’t good at the moment but expect it’s quite a bit faster too.  Atleast 1.5lb off rotating mass, and another lb from the fork

Fat is alive here in the Midwest.

Infact my Orange has sat in the house and the fat has done more miles over the summer.  Now there is snow it’s fat all the way.

Makes dull trails interesting and passing over invested Americans fun.

Cant see myself wanting to bring it back and ride it in the peaks though.

Like I said, bit of a gamble, but would be a good price if ok.  Ok price if well used as the bones of it are high quality.  Looks fine in the pics and he had 40mm tyres on it for bumbling around.

Hoping the cards are stacked in my favour.

Either way, it’s going to feel fast compared to my 2009 Roadrat.

I think there’s probably a value people are willing to pay for a used bike.  Either to try a new discipline or for something to commute or ride with friends.   Mid spec bikes with brand, drop to just below or around that price and top spec end up dropping to just above that price where a few are willing to stretch too it.

I did well on my fat bike last year too, ended up showing me fat bikers aren’t just freaks but normal guys having fun.