Thanks!

I suggested to him to take the hub apart and examine spinning of each to see if that is indeed just seals or anything else, like missing spacer.

@dc1988, same result in the frame and outside of the frame hand held only.

Cheers!
I.

Cheers!

He already started fiddling with the hub, so far no luck.

Any other ideas please?

Cheers!
I.

Thanks paton!

For these that are not in mood for reading key piece below:

If a chain has seen a wet ride, thoroughly wipe dry with a microfiber cloth, then wrap in a
second dry microfiber cloth. This will keep chain from exposure to air and oxidation for
sufficient time until next weekly re wax.
DO NOT put in plastic bag – plastic traps moisture and acts as a humidifier / rust catalyst.

Cheers!
I.

Hullo,

A bit of a resurrection of a thread but that is probably best, as per title, place to ask about.

So yeah, just tried my first hot waxing of the chain and I’m happy like a pig in the muck.

Might even try 2 or 3 chains rotation method, however I have my very technical doubt…

So say, chain no 1 is good for cleaning, chains no 2 and no 3 ready to roll from batch waxing.

All good and nice but hey… What are you doing with chain no 1 It is good chain, in rotation, it is not going to the bin but… yeah… What do you do? Store it dirty/dry until batch clean/batch waxing? Store it clean before next batch waxing? If so how do you prevent corrosion?

Cheers!
I.

… just need to repeat myself :D

Top people, top customers service, especially that Trace seal was sent to me FOC.

Fantastic, high-prize worthy Company.

Cheers!
I.

Cheers!

Just awaiting now word from CRC/Wiggle what cartridge model will be suitable for my dropper.

I.

Hullo,

A bit of a hijack as I do not want to multiply Brand X dropper threads.

Mine, 150mm, J20D2 model, internal, decided not to stay up anymore. Though it would be cable or actuator blocked by cable. Nope. Took it out, no cable attached still not staying up.
Even pulled out actuator rod from the bottom, still not staying up.

Would I need new cartridge because old is now kaput?

Cheers!
I.

I tend to ride on the flat part of the drops

No point struggling to install them near stem then?

Use extended bar-end terminator, reduce it’s outside diameter and us it as a sort of bar end grip shifter? Or use one of these accessories mounts that you can screw onto stem or bars, with little space for whatever you want.

Might be just right diameter for grip shift…

Cheers!
I.

Still no links to L03A in the UK……

Seriously? I wasn’t even trying…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/5032301213

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353671666831?hash=item5258795c8f:g:aikAAOSwmJFhPu5y

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165128586033?hash=item26726e4331:g:NpwAAOSwG8BhaEoR

Cheers!
I.

Thanks!

Looks like dilemma sorted itself somehow :) My co-worker heard me talking about it and will be donating 2, almost new WTB Weirwolves LT to my build.
Happy days, got very fond memories of that tyre.

Cheers!
I.

Very happy with my BeerBabe Phonehugger :)

Additional kudos for re-using old inner tubes for that.

Cheers!
I.

Mastodon EXT is certified up to 5.15″.

Bluto is going to be too much of a squeeze and it is too noodly anyways.

These AliExpress contraptions just avoid at all cost…

Cheers!
I.

That might actually get even cheaper than I though, as I think, I have QR Hope end caps somewhere in spare parts bin xD

Cheers!
I.

Hi,

My Ti is flexing around BB area and I’m probably 1/3 of your size/weight xD

I also suggest steel. Also try sandwiched/composite BB/stays yoke. Much stiffer than simple plate.

Cheers!
I.

Cheers!

Very useful link. Forgot to add that my hub is Pro2 Evo.

So actually looks like that’s one for me —> Pro 2 Evo Fatsno 170
And I need HUB238 part.

Case, probably solved :D

Thanks!
I.

I’m pretty sure the wheels / tyres on my fat bike won’t play nicely as tubeless

Have you actually tried it @rockandrollmark ? My DT BR-710 and Surly Nate all holding ghetto very nicely. No issues down to 4-5psi…
Cheers!
I.

Maybe I should go tubeless but that would mean new wheels, doubt if the cheapie un-named things that came with the bike are compatible!

You don’t need new wheels. Try ghetto tubeless with split BMX inner tube. To be honest I had more problems with proper tubeless setups than with ghetto.

Certain combos of tyres/rims might not work, but I haven’t meet one like that with ghetto till this date after ghettoing for last 15 or so years.

Cheers!
I.

won’t be the rim joint

It was rim joint in my case me thinks. Tried several different tapes, including extra wide one, that went all way up to rim bead and above. It was always leaking on the rim joint.

I even tried epoxy rim joint. Made it slightly better but it was still leaking.

Tested it in bathtube.

Cheers!
I.

In my case it was just in certain speeds/conditions.
Added bolt fixed problem.

No other changes happened to that bike since, apart of new brake pads.

Cheers!
I.

Not sure if I get you right, but I had terrible, howling resonance on my rear brake, on Ti HT if not pulling it down to the bars.

Ended up taping very tightly, with electric tape, about inch long M8 bolt into brake side seatstay. From the top of the stay.

Quiet and no resonance anymore. Friend of mine had the same on his FS bike. Same solution, same result.

Cheers!
I.

possibly rim joint.

Had one like that with Halo Vapour 50 rim. Ended up with split inner tube ghetto version, that works perfect.

Actually when I’m thinking about it, I have never had any issues with ghetto, but several instances of problems/fails with proper stuff xD

Cheers!
I.

👍👍👍
Happy to by of some use to you mate.
Cheers!
I.

Just about to send one off to them for repairs, so that’s great news, can I ask who you used as a courier?

I used Hermes. In what must be about 200 parcels I’ve sent with them only had 2 bad ones.
Exposure is using RM 1st Class to send stuff back.

Cheers!
I.

Right… Any chainrings with correct BCD/PCD will do. If they have pins and ramps that aid shifting it is a bonus, if they don’t, shifting will be that little bit slower.
Been there, done that. I’m not a racer type so not an issue for me.

Pre-pandemic time there was loads of various chainrings on ebay kicking around, now probably not so much.

Especially if you are treating your bike as a secondary and you are not fussed I would use Stronglight you bought. They are OK. Had decent millage from them.

Personally I would look for steel 2200/Claris grade (or corresponding FSA/Sram/Others) chainrings to have best possible millage for money.

And of course your 30T wont be BCD 130 as it will not physically cover such diameter. It would be probably 78BCD. The smallest 130 BCD chainring possible is 38T, 110 33T and so on…

If you can source 11 or 12 speed chainrings with correct BCD won’t make any difference. Going opposite way might do. From 7speed to 12 probably might experience some issues with shifting or chain jamming.

But in the areas of 9-11 speed no issues whatsoever.

Cheers!
I.

You don’t need to “instagram” to see the post, by the way. Just click on it like any other web page.

not exactly 100% true. if you are on mobile or tablet it is working, if on PC or laptop it kicks you straight into Instagram log-on page.

Cheers!
I.

Soma Lauterwasser.

Looks stylish and crazy enough for me. Bonus if used with reversed, bar end levers.

Cheers!
I.

That is great!!!
Cheers!
I.

Ritchey Beacon.

46cm on the hoods, nice flare and very shallow drop so lever can be reached from the drops even by someone with such a small hands like me.

Venture MAX also good call, but less flare and bigger drop.

Cheers!
I.

Surely Ribble CGR must be high on this list?

Thanks Chaps!

Very helpful snaps.

Cheers!
I.

Cheers RichBowman! Top man.

If you happen to have rear end picture with similar, or chunkier rubber I won’t mind…

Cheers!
I.

Thanks!

The level of non-bikenes of that person best describes set of requirements:

wanna speedo on my bike, you know, that looks like car one…

So playing with Garmin and stuff is rather not an option :D

Seen that CatEye myself, but that doesn’t look like “car one” so sadly not an option.

Cheers!
I.

Uuuu, very handy thread… Question to CGR owners. What is actual, rear and front forks clearance? Can you stick anything bigger than declared 46c in 700 flavour?
Actual, caliper checked 46c?

Cheers!
I.

I have various front mechs kicking around. 9 speed Sora, 10 speed Tiagra, 10 speed CX70, probably even some 10 speed triple 105. Need to have rummage.
It will be paired with vintage 7700 STIs that I bought years and years ago on the whim…

If the worse coms to the worst I’ll but both 108 and 113. I would rather not, to minimize cost and base myself on held parts only, but sometimes must is a must.

Cheers!
I.

Cheers!
I.

Sure thing, what flows your way, but stating pigeons are harmless is not true.

Cheers!
I.

want to start potting at pigeons, who are fairly harmless.

Not really harmless. Pigeon have ticks, loads of ticks and their dry poop tend to turn into dust. Dust that caries really bad stuff straight into your orifices and lungs.

Cheers!
I.

Your house?

SWMBO might beg to differ on such option I’m afraid :D

garage space in Walkley.

Much appreciated sturmeyarcher!!! Will keep it as an ace in the sleeve.

Not sure when he is planning that though, need to ask probably.

Cheers!
I.

Bike Rehab

Thanks! I’ll throw it as an option for him to check.

They will be driving to the destinations anyways, so whatever place they can store bikes will do probably.

That would be really like family bimbling. Around Upper Derwent/Howden and Monsal on day 2. So all very, very tame and bimbly…

Cheers!
I.

Russell’s Bike Shed at the station?

Yeah, that was the one I was talking about as on railway station.

Neither me I would not be leavening bikes on the actual station racks.

Not sure what was his priorities of hotel selection, but also sounds a bit odd for me, that they can’t offer any storage for bikes…

Cheers!
I.