I recently swapped from 2.5 Exo Maxxgrip DHF to 2.6 Apex Soft MM on the front. Echoing the stuff above, the MM is a lot better on soft surfaces, but I’ve had some surprise slips on off-camber rock. It also seems to handle roots better, but I don’t know if that’s due to the taller knobs being able to dig in to the ground around small ones, where the DHF rises up to only have contact with wood.

They are almost excactly the same size on my 30 mm internal rims by the way.

Same here, Velo Orange guards have thicker stays than the SKS’s I have on other bikes.

I recently swapped out a 2.5 Aggressor. It was slippery on most wet things, hard or soft. I guess it’s down to whether you prefer the hot sweaty feeling of working too hard, or the cold sweaty feeling of fearing for your life.

Color coordination done right. I’d put a green to yellow fade for the fork lowers. Crown might benefit from some extra hue too.

HVDC converters

I for one welcome our new machine overlords. The guy who designed these would probably be kicked out of a special effects studio for doing stuff that’s too far out.

How much the one in the lower pic costs? In case I decide to start up a really hip techno club in the future.

We had some similar problems transitioning to pedalling. I started out with taking the pedals out and using the new bike as a balance bike for a while. One evening I was just told: “Let’s go practice pedalling!” I pushed the kid down a gentle slope and off they were.

Here’s an another way of enjoying pylons:

Electricity Pylon, Adelaide Hills.

@Onzadog I have high arches, so might not be qualified, but the stock insoles are fairly mellow. I just went and measured the highest point of the arch to be 3 cm up when the insole is laid on a table. The material is also softish foam, so there’s nothing rigid under the arch.

The actual footbed of the shoe is lower still, I’d estimate that there’s about a centimeter of space between the (removable) insole (at 3cm above the ball of the feet to bottom of heel -line) and the bottom of the shoe.

Quite confusing, but I hope it makes some sense, not my first language and all that.

160 to 203 adaptor in a fork with 180 mm minimum rotor size?

EDIT: 41 seconds…

Can’t see myself seeking wilderness in Denmark, to be honest 🙂

I guess more sparse a resource is, the tighter it tends to be regulated. Up around here solitude is ample, but closer to Central Europe it tends to become a luxury, and therefore not available to the masses.

Vittoria Terreno XC?

https://www.vittoria.com/us/terreno-cross-country.html

Scandenavia does not have right to roam in the scottish sense

I think it does…?

Not Scandinavia, but Finland definitely has a very open right to roam. It states that anywhere not dedicated to some activity, such as fields for farming, pastures for grazing, yards for living, factories for factoring, etc., is open to traversing on non-motorised vehicles (including horses and e-bikes), temporary camping and foraging stuff from the ground, such as berries, mushrooms and confier cones, as long as no damage is caused. Fishing and fires require landowner permission.

So basically it means that owning land does not allow one to control access to it.

I believe Sweden and Norway have very similar situations, but in Denmark access is more restricted.

The 45NRTH Gravdal seems to be available in 27, but it’s only 38 mm. From what I’ve heard, it rolls a bit nicer than a Mara Winter with similar amounts of grip.

These are from Friday, as I had a day off and the Sun made it’s first appearance in a couple of weeks.

I was out exploring an area I know lot of people ride in, but hadn’t visited myself. I had also just fitted more autumnal tyres, which proved out to be a lot more appropriate than the DHF/Aggressor -combo they replaced.

It had rained non-stop from Tuesday evening to midday Thursday, and it showed in places. The night before was below zero, and in some microclimates the mud had a crunchy crust on top.

All the moisture meant that there was plenty of God-light to go around, but unfortunately I only had a fairly mediocre point-and-shoot with me.

I’ve been looking for a one too, except for fixed gear use, and the If money wasn’t an object -choice, discounting custom options, is

Niner RLT 9 Steel

I’m currently rolling on a Pompino and dreaming on.

I found the Gravel Kings a bit fragile. Had them with tubes for a time, and when setting up tubeless I found that the whole tread had little nicks where moist patches of sealant would form, ant continued to do so for the lifetime of the tyre. It ended up consuming about 50 ml of sealant every two months.

This was on the 40 mm version, the narrower ones might have different construction. But in 32 mm I see no reason not run GP5000 TL’s, except for

also skinwall

*high five*

I got Leatt’s 3DF 5.0 for knees. Comfy and still in good shape after about 18 months. The Airflexes I have for my elbows are comfier still, but might not survive contact with anything abrasive as they are just tubes of lycra with the pads glues on vs. neoprene and aramid on the 3DF’s.

I remember Singletrack giving them both good reviews recently too.

And since this thread was about road shoes, the CX models are the same as MX, but without rubber outsole and three holes for the cleat.

My Lake mx237 wides are one of the widest shoes I’ve owned in general. I ride a lot on a fixed gear, so plenty of mashing standing up, and I’ve never noticed any flex. I did Lake’s “stand on a piece of paper and draw the outline of your feet” -thing and got a good fit on the first try.

Well over 130, though.

oh the waxes!

This! Especially with classic. Wrong wax will make it hell. But the rental shop will hopefully sort you out.

And yes DEET is recommended for non-pregnant over 3-year olds, but in 50% concentration vs. the 10-15% in mosquito repellent. IR3535 for the young ones.

And I don’t want to sound too alarmist. If only 10% of ticks carry the virus (varies by area), 10-30% of people contracting it show symptoms, and of those only 20-30% get the actual encelaphitis, that’s 0.1 * 0.3 * 0.3 = 0.009, so about 1% chance of significant effects per bite.

Long trousers with socks pulled up over them will be the next MTB fashion craze.

I don’t have it myself, but Googled, it’s around 60 euros a shot and you need three total for a long-term immunity. First booster 1-3 and second 9-12 months after the initial injection.

The virus is a lot less common in ticks than Lyme’s disease (I think recent research has it around 10%), and I know of people who have spent their lives in nature in high-risk zones without problems, but there is a statistically significant increase in deaths in these areas.

We’ve had it for a while (in Finland), and apparently unlike Lyme’s disease the encelaphalitis is contracted immediately upon the bite, so a vaccination is the only reliable protection. If the tick has fastened itself, you already have the virus.

EDIT: Pants work okay too, assuming you don’t crash…

So it’s the fender mounting you’re going to use? I guess a narrow L-bracket as per Rat above, and then screw the Edelux’s own mount on the vertical part.

If you’re ready to DIY a bit more, you could screw 2 cm long bit of 31.8 mm tubing on one of the side cage mounts and attach a handlebar mount there. Light would be fairly low, but no problems clearing bags.

I’ve got Mavic Crossmax SL Thermos for the wet season. The soles are good on rock and mud/snow too. Waterproof and lightly insulated. I’m comfortable in them between 10 and -3 or so.

Style is more Batman than hiking boot, though.

https://www.marzocchi.com/support/forks/2019/2019-bomber-z1-29-140.aspx?idC=62354&idM=30187-1756-1645&idMy=30174&idP=30184-835&idS=30178

Lists this:

820-02-549-KIT
Service Set: Air Shaft Assy, 2019, 36 Rhythm, 140mm, 1.275″ Bore, No Spacer

EDIT: The same parts for 2020 too.

I got my first tubeless blisters on a Terreno Dry. Good memories. The 33’s were also oversized, by the way.

Lupine sell their Rotlicht in Germany and it has flashing modes…

I have no experience on the matter, but I’ve seen flashing lights with handlebar mounts sold as “safety lights” on German online retailers’ pages, but all the lights in the “bike lights” -category have seemed to be steady only. So perhaps it’s jsut a question of labeling.

Unless it *only* has a flashing mode.

That I did not know.

The STVzÖ regulation might be part of the problem for availability, as I believe flash modes are not allowed by it. Anything sold as a bike light in Germany can only emit steady light.

I already did grease my post, but was thinking if it was needed, as I’ve thought that aluminium and steel have some sort of chemical way of bonding with each other and if the coating was going to stop this from happening, as it pretty much does the same as a film of copper paste or grease in between.

If you want to go cheap, Deore M6000 has a 11-42 10-speed cassette. Mech+cassette+chain is about 80 euros from Germany.

I have a MET Roam. It’s officially up to 62, but my head measures 64 cm, and it’s perfect. Not sure about my forehead shape though. Encouraged by the fit I tried a couple of their road models, but they would all press down on my fore- or afthead, so at least the Roam is not terrible in that regard.

I’ve been riding them for about two months now. It took about twenty minutes and some rotor truing (with new discs) to get them running silently. The gap between the pads is really small, so doing the bolts a bit too eagerly will twist the caliper enough to close it.

Apart from that they are wonderful brakes, although I don’t have much to compare them against, as my disc brake experience comprises of BB7’s and Shimano M3xx’s. Really good control and enough power. Also zero squals with the stock semi-metallic pads, even though it’s been quite muddy around here lately.

It’s only complicated here,

Will give it a few more rides before deciding what to do next

is how it works in the real world.

You can also ask the village blacksmith to braze on disc mounts to your current frame. I know of several Surlys, Steamrollers mostly, that have been converted and ridden without problems, as they don’t skimp on the metal.

@thisisnotaspoon

Fresh enough to commute in at least… Wouldn’t wear it for a formal occasion. When I think about it, I don’t think I’ve washed it since buying it last spring. I’ve been told my sense of smell is not the most sensitive, so your experince might vary. I tend to wash my wool things (apart from underwear) when they start to stiffen up noticeably.

I like wool and for me the biggest point is not having to wash it constantly. I’ve been commuting in the same long sleeve jersey for a few weeks now, and it’s still fresh. I just hang it to dry at work and in the evening, and it stays fresh. Not having to run my washer and having wet clothes steaming up my home every night is great.

I’ll add some anecdotage, since I was thinking of this while riding back home yesterday. My commute is mostly dirt road, and I alternate between two bikes on different days, one of which has 37 mm tyres and the other 31 mm. I realized that I feel a significant difference between how they react to deeper and looser sand and gravel. The thinner-tyred bike feels like it slows down when riding through the softer stuff, which I hypothesized is due to plowing into it, while wider tyre rides on the top and isn’t affected as much. So, as said above, what you consider a road has a lot to do in what kind of tyres are faster.

As an another example, not from me, a local ultracyclist experimented with a 90’s ATB and some wide, around 50 mm, Compass tyres a year or two back, but came back to 32 mm’s because they were faster and comfortable enough for him.