I’ve been rolling on Hutchinson Overides this spring, and they have been a pleasant experience for tarmac and dirt and gravel. File tread that roughens towards the edges, but no real cornering knobs. Bit stiff, but that can be countered by running silly low pressures, as the sidewalls don’t seem to squirm until the tyre is practically flat. Bought from Alltricks.com for slightly under 30 euros a piece.

Theoretically Hutchinson also has the Touareg with the same casing and a little bit more tread, but they don’t seem to be very available.

EDIT: And yes, there’s only one ‘r’ in the name. The French, go figure.

Just speculating, but as you mentioned, could you be pushing your feet outwards duo to the narrower Q-factor? If you are used to a wider stance your feet are trying to be where they’ve used to be when pedaling and the outboard edges getting too much pressure on them. Never had this happen to me, but the explanation sounds like it could be sensible from a mechanical standpoint.

FR560 from DT also comes in 36 holes. Bit sturdier and heavier than a 511.

EDIT: The HX-series is DT’s e-bike stuff, so probably

Bit sturdier and heavier than a 511

I remember seeing a video of Industry Nine where they said their day job is making parts for offshore fiber optic cables, and the bike stuff just happens in between.

Margaret for my Super C Audax, which has been in daily use for five years and is still in great shape.

Only thing I dislike is that the quick release mounting thingy’s plastic gets brittle in cold weather. I’ve broken three already, always in wintertime.

Positive air pressure in the negative air chamber

That will cause the fork to suck down into it’s travel when taking air out of the positive side, right? Had this on my 36, and it was rectified with removing excessive grease from around the air piston.

EDIT: If I understand correctly, the OP’s fork is doing just this, which it shouldn’t.

The new AM2’s (Wild and Force) have the same casings as the Wild Enduro front. I don’t know if they are available in 2.8 though.

EDIT: I checked, and apparently not.

A collague has recently had trouble with palpitations and he was recommended this app for getting a record of them by a doctor (a GP I believe):

https://www.cardiosignal.com/

It uses the accelerometers in your smartphone to detect heart activity. You lie down and place the phone on your chest. Free version allows two recordings, have to pay if you want more.

This was done at an old downhill spot here in Helsinki last year. The initiative was from the city government, they basically informed people that either an organization would have to take responsibility of the area, or the trails would be demolished. A club was put up, ten year lease secured and the spot fenced in and the first officially recognized bit of mountain biking infrastructure in the city was born. Anyone who pays the yearly membership free will get the code for the combination lock at the gate.

The reason was legal liability, as said above. The city delegates legal responsibility to the club, and the clubs’ rules state that members are responsible for their own safety and insurance coverage.

https://en.helsingindownhill.com/

You need something to support the puller on top of the hirth joint in the spindle without damaging it. The ready-mades are shaped to do this, but you could probably figure something out for a generic one.

You can disable route recalculation, or have it ask you for a permission, which I’ve done to save on battery. Mostly I just zoom out the map a bit to figure how to get back to the route in a reasonable manner instead of the u-turn.

There are different routing modes in the settings if I remember correctly, road biking, gravel, MTB, which will probably affect road preferences for the router. I haven’t tested much, as I tend to prebuild my routes.

The only thing that may stump you is if you need to replace the BB bearings.

Unior has a kit for this that’s 60 euros, Park Tools’ is 100.

I think they have smaller and blunter headed bullets specifically for road tubeless.

EDIT: No practical experience, mine has just sat in bags/pockets so far.

I also have wide feet. Mine just fit into Lakes and Vivobarefoot, which are the only brands I’m currently using (seems to be a consensus forming here!).

My next question would be work boots.

I used to have the Finnish army combat boots for winter use, and they were really good size wise. They are made by Jalas, and they seem to have a lot work boots too, might be worth a try if you can find them somewhere.

https://www.ejendals.com/fi/jalas/tuotteet/tuotteet/heavy-duty/

EDIT: Some here might prefer a link to their English pages….
https://www.ejendals.com/jalas/products/products/

I took a punt on the XT’s for a new build as I like silence myself. A lot less money lost if some problems appear. They should be coming in tomorrow and with luck I’ll have the wheels running on a new bike the week after.

The Julbo lenses are really good. I’ve had the Reactiv Golds on a traditional frame (Stream might be the model name) for a couple of years.

They are almost always the right darkness, with only problems in transitioning around -10 degrees or below, when they take a few minutes to go from light to max block.

They have nice contrast boost when in the lighter end, but darken to a flatter brown tint.

Cutter error at the printers. Books and magazines are actually printed on large sheets that have multiple pages on both sides. These are then folded to put the pages in right order, bound and the edges cut to let each page loose. See ‘If on a winter’s night a traveler’.

Cheapo paperbacks used to come with the pages uncut, so you had to do it yourself before reading them.

Hmm, maybe I should stockpile an another then…

I just bought a Koda with cromo rails and DNA, I think the model was Pro, but it was discounted, so maybe an outgoing model. I used to have the bottom version with normal foam padding, and while I haven’t ridden the new one yet, it feels firmer and lighter to the hand.

The slick version seems to be quite bit more fragile than the SK. I tried them when they came out, and not going to buy again. As other have said, they are just too fragile. In a month the tread was full pinholes slowly leaking sealant out, so on a dusty day, you could see the moist patches all over the tyre. Had to top up monthly with 50 ml.

I’ve also been running the SK’s for years and have nothing bad to say about them.

WTB recommends +5 mm to rim internal width, so 34 mm in your case. There’s two schools, one wants the tape to go under the rim bead, like WTB, so that the pressure from the bead pushes the tape against the rim. Others only tape the rim well to cover the holes and are happy that way too. I’ve always used wide tape without problems.

I’ve got Julbo transitions, and they do work great. They do always seem to be just right, I’ve never noticed them changing or not changing.

With tubes the width doesn’t really matter as long as it covers the nipple holes.

Fizik Tempo here. Suede-like surface that’s comfy without gloves and grippy when wet too, unlike Lizard Skins DSP.

I’m not an economist or an investor, but it is interesting how this seems to lay bare the self-referentialeness of financial markets. Values are based on expectations of other actors’ future valuations, not much on “real-world” stuff.

The thing about overshoes is that if you do any walking, they will only last one winter in my experience. So that 50 euros by five years makes about the same as buying a proper boot, and your feet will be warmer too.

I would think very carefully about using a bike in those temps, in fact I really can’t see it being fun

-29 degrees is the lowest I’ve commuted in. Bearable, and still beats waiting for the bus at the same conditions. I wouldn’t go for an endurance ride though.

There were some comments on studded tyres and slowness, but at proper low temperatures even smooth ice is pretty grippy. Studs are really only needed for the melt periods when you get rutted or wet ice.

Another fun anecdote: I was once on my way home from work in the late autumn. The temperature felt quite low so I checked grip by dragging my shoe on the road when I started out and all seemed good. At one point I came to an open section of road with a strong crosswind and noticed my bike being blown sideways across the road and realized it was covered in black ice. Fun times.

Greetings from Finland! There aren’t that many people riding in the winter either. I’ve seen a plot of cycle traffic in Helsinki vs. air temperature, and the graph is barely above zero up until zero degrees and rises fairly linearly from there up to about 25 degrees.

There are a lot more people doing it in Oulu, though. It’s the first city in Finland to have actually planned a cycling infrastructure network in the late 70’s, I believe. They also have more consistent winter, which is pretty important, as the trickiest conditions arise from seesawing around zero, which is what happens most of the winter here in the south.

I’m glad I ride in the winter too, because that’s how I started mountain biking. I remember having to turn to deep snow bank to let a walker through on a narrow beaten path after a night of heavy snow. I went to a two wheel drift, managed to right it and thought “hmm. That was fun, I bet things like that happen all the time when riding off-road.”

A bit less than 145, but a bit more than some suggestions. Stretchy and cut for moving around, but look quite respectable.

https://www.swrve.co.uk/

To me it looks like your bars have a classic bend, where you’re not supposed to get a flat ramp leading into the hoods. Like on Scotroutes’ first photo above. That way you just hook your thumbs on the lever, which really isn’t the way modern brake levers are meant to be used. It will also lower your hood position significantly.

So new bars might be in order…

About track chainrings being rounder, I’ve heard it being said that the more expensive NJS-stamped rings from Japanese manufacturers are hand picked to a tighter spec than their “normal” ones. I have no validation for the claim, but it might account for the view that track rings are rounder.

I’m of the impression that the solid lubricant bearings were actually developed for the food industry. Lots of machines that need to be kept clean, so they are made to last when regularly jet washed. So they should work in theory, but I remember Cane Creek saying that they haven’t really tested whether they are better for bottom brackets, which I find kind of lame. Basically outsourcing their product testing for paying customers. But if it works for the software industry…

Keeping my elbows well bent helps me. That way when the front end inevitably slides it won’t pull me off balance with it, as I can just extend my arms and wait for the front tire (hopefully) to catch something soft again.

I have no experience with shirts, but I have Leatt Airflex elbow pads. I’ve crashed on them thrice do far, and they’ve been where they need to be and stayed there when hit.

The last one was very instructive: I fell on a round rock forearm first and stopped with my upper arm sandwiched between torso and the rock. I had scratches on the forearm, but they stopped where the pad starts and continued after my elbow joint where it stops

I bought (heavily discounted) Rapha softshell ones couple of years ago and like them a lot. The model name might be Pro Team glove, or something similar. No padding, insulation or nose wipes but the fabric is soft enough to use any part of the glove for that.

I’ve got active circulation in my hands, and they are bit sweaty at 10 degrees and work down to about -5 in the dry, the sweetspot being 5-0.

EDIT: https://www.rapha.cc/gb/en/shop/mens-pro-team-gloves/product/PTG05XX

https://axs.sram.com/tirepressureguide

This surprisingly recommended pressures within a couple of PSI of what I’d arrived at by experimentation. Worth a try for a base line.

Lake has four different last shapes with separate wide versions, and an extra wide on some, so you need to dig about the website for a while. I can’t wear Sidi Megas, as they are much too narrow around the ball of my feet. Contrary to alanl above the Lake’s I have (MX237 Wide and MX168 Enduro Wide) are much much wider where they need to be for me.

Feet shapes are so different that claudie’s approach might be the most (only?) sensible one. I’m happy with my Lake’s and will only be buying other brands if I need something they don’t do, which basically is flat pedal shoes.

I can third the Terrenos. I had Drys on my commuter last winter and they are really nice tyres. Fast but with more grip than you’d guess from the tread. I’ve only had the smaller versions (31, 33 and 35 mm) and they all come up 1-2 mm bigger than advertised, so the 40 mm could be a bit oversized too.

I’m also using a Shimsno road bb currently (about three months and with Raceface cranks). I just left the thinnest 0,7 mm spacer in to account for the difference in the cups and everything has been going great.

SKS makes a set of full guards in 72 mm width, should be perfect with a 2.35.