"U-bend section in your power lead. Traps sticky electrons from dodgy mains supplies so they don't clog up your power amp. Need to purge or replace it every week though."

love it, will keep me chuckling on my ride home today!!!

http://tafkac.org/misc/cd/marking_cds.html

If you can get to Wales it may be worth going to get the frame, sometimes you do find great deals on ebay; sounds like this is one! Call Orange monday too and good luck!!

nobby nics on mine. Ace.

We have a Vizsla puppy who I hope will be able to ride with me when he's older (bumped into someone in Afan who was riding with his and he said the dog goes all day long) Like a smaller Weimaraner – he's brilliant! Very cuddly and family orientated too!

I’ve got a 7’2″ magic carpet from gulfstream surfboards – fantastic for british conditions and it really picks up even on small waves. I’ve also just swapped my 6’8″ channel islands M13 which I’d tried as a british conditions short board for a progressive mini-mal. Convinced bigger is better!!

roger that. will try this evening! thanks all.

drinking wine and preparing to get wrathful……..

[applauds] marvelous. wound me in! Thanks for making my on call over this weekend a little less painful!

wingnut. awesome. nuff said.

I’m with guitarmanjon, MTT and Olly – if this is real then you are a total toss$r. Your poor poor wife would be better off leaving you and your ‘big salary/house’.

2nd hand pace fighter forks and new wheels… loverly

I went for 4.2 in the end after much the same though process as you. I ride a 5 inch travel bike, mostly XC but with some trips to Afan etc with bigger rides. I’ve had no problems at all. I went with Aireal hubs, which are not made any more, but the importer still has some in stic and offers a 2 year warranty with them. They are fantastic. Front and rear hand built wheels with DT spokes, 4.2 rims and the hubs (20mm front with QR adaptor) and QR rear with 12mm adaptor £250 all in. They also do a lighter XC hub. I cant reccomend them more highly. Evolution cycles in Eastbourne.

FWIW I love my 575. Hamazing.

Thanks guys. Just ordered a pair from eveolution cycles in Eastbourne. They used to be the distibutor and have some left. Van Halen – give them a call as I can’t remember what colours they have left, and the prices are good!!

Ta,
Mark

I thought I was about to have an awesome photo taken and…..

..amusing in retrospect. Hurt at the time!

gottit. So not a south downs bike then?!!! So how do the frame angles relate to trail steepness (is steepness a real word?)

P.S. EDIT for handbag content re: above:
I think Harry the Spider has them – he can post if you like?!
If out of stock, please contact an alternative supplier such as RudeBoy or Molgrips.

Tongue firmly in cheek.

Sorry if this is a silly question but I don’t really understand bike geometry in relation to bike use; for example this bike being a steep uphill and steep downhill bike – can someone please explain? Also, what does Calderdale new school mean?!

Bike looks nice. I actually like the seat stay and chain stay thingies!

Ta

give fork english a call – they do service more recent forks than stated on the Pace site and the guy (whose name escapes me at the moment) used to work for Pace. He’s a good bloke and knows his stuff.

Did it last year. Had never raced before and did the 4 hour combined services race. Fantastic and I can highly recommend it. I will be back this year and faster (I hope!!).

just log into wiggle, goto your account details and update them then they’ll send you a new code for a week.

I’m heading there tomorrow – in fact cinnamon, I’ll bring my wingnut along if you want a look at it. Aiming to be there about 1145 ish, I’ve got a white Yeti 575 with black revelations.

To clean and lubricate the freehub body on a current Mavic freehub you need 5mm and 10mm hex keys:
– remove the axel-end cap on the non-drive side by pulling it out
– insert the 10mm hex key in the nondrive side and the 5mm key in the drive side. Unscrew in a counterclockwise direction and remove the axel.
– lay the wheel on its side, cog side up
– carefully, while watching for the flying pawl springs, rotate the freehub body counterclockwise and pull up, removing the freehub body
– clean bits, then reassemble putting 10-20 drops of lightweight oil into the freehun.

hope that helps – extract from Zinn and the art of mountainbike maintenance which I can highly recommend!!

I posted a question about their hubs a couple of days ago and got no replies, just a ‘Troll’ tag. I agree 100% with the comments that if you have no experience of something then a forum with experience is a good place to ask which is why I did and I suspect why Smee did. Fair enough there have been endless threads about brake pads in the past and some on bb’s but they do sell other stuff and it’d be nice to hear views from people who have actually used the kit – thanks to those that have, it has been useful in deciding what to buy.

Wow Gus, thanks for your lesson on swallowing there. Also the quotation marks… a ‘nice’ touch.

‘Chances are, that he din’t swallow it at all, and that you’ve missed it. A piece of glass that big would probably cause problems had he tried to swallow it. If he has somehow swallowed it, such a big piece would be easy to locate with a CT scan, and remove, if necessary.’
I’m afraid I have to disagree – the visibility of glass on x-ray imagaing (which is also what CT is) depends on the lead content of the glass itself. Lead crystal glass is seen more easily because it has a higher density so attenuates x-rays better.

‘Chances are he’s not swallowed it 2 years olds have tiny gullets a piece that size would harm him straight away and he’s be in pain.’

Again, sorry to be alarmist, but he’d easily be able to swallow it.

I suspect that nothing would however be done other than watch and wait unless he has clinical symptoms but this is not something that should be or can be advised without examining him so I would reccomend you take him to accident and emergency and have him formally assessed.

Thanks for the info – things are alright with 130mm, I was just toying with buying longer forks just because more bike stuff is no bad thing (!) and wondered about reliability and the like and comparison of old but originally expensive vs. newer but cheaper.

anyone??!!!

I’ve got revelations (lasy years – 130mm) on mine and it works just fine though TBH I’ve often wondered if I should go a little longer. It was a case of right price at the right time when I bought them….

tomzo – thank you!!!

the only one that me me chuckle:

I am not a number I am 32:16 – Mr sparkle

9 miles each way. In the summer I pretty much ride it 4 out of 5 days (1 day a week on call so need the car) Winter is when weather allows!

There is/was a company who made a rack that sat in your boot which had a mount your fork clamped to and you then strapped your downtube to. Had to take the front wheel off of course. I can’ remember their name/website so this is limited in value to you unless someone else can remember the company?

No worries – then you may well bump into a group of us on Whites tomorrow! Have a good ride.

any2 – are you riding with a guy called Ed?

PS – does anyone know how wet it is there at the moment?!

I am an idiot. Mystery – you are a legend. Thank you indeed!!! Solution:
look closer at caliper. Remove post to IS adaptor already there. Voila, a caliper that post mounts directly and a stupid me.

sorry – that should be BR-M465 front brake. Anyone know a solution?

currently – Shimano BR-M465 Mechanical Disc rear brakes with Avid FR-5 levers…

I’ve not had a problem with mine – I’ve got an X9 front mech with 08 xt crankset on a medium 07 575.

I love my wingnut and can heartily reccomend it.