sc-xc
Can I have the Mikey M address, please.

My Email ad is in my profile.

Cheers.

I’ve done 20″innertube Ghetto and also used Bonti rim strips.
My thinking is that the tube strips seal against the tyre so that if the bead leaves the rim there is still a seal.
The Bonti strips give the wheel a pseudo UST profile that fills in the area below the rim hook.
My tyre’s beads “pinged” into place very positively when I inflated them. The down side was that I could not get them to fit my 17mm rims only my 19mm rims.
However, never done taped rims.

Just Kampers do some good ones. We’ve got a Hamburg(or some other German city name). Two double airbeds on one side, same space on the other for other stuff.

Yes, pop the bearings out and use a knife to pry out the shields, wash out with spray lube, dry and fill with waterproof grease. Mine came from the factory bone dry.

Its prety easy to do the little ones, still haven’t done the main pivot.

Bloke on the Commi owner’s website has posted pics of the whole back end stripped.

Hein Gerricke(?) stuff is really good. I have a Gortex armoured jacket and wear it year-round. It has a zip-out lining and a load of zip open vents for the “Summer”. I always wear my HG Tuareg(?)boots and some old Triumph leather trews. When its really hot I zip open the trouser bottoms and bunch the iner bit open to make a wind scoop – fantastic. And I soak the bottom half of my balaclava(in summer? yes in summer) in cold water.

Cheers, Coatesy.
That sounds like an idea.

I pulled out a thorn to show off the super healing qualities of the tubeless set up. Of course the tyre went down. Too low on sealant.

My Contis seeped sealant through the side walls for a while then stopped.

The top hat inside Dia matches the crank shaft and the outside Dia matches the Shimano bearing’s inner Dia. So, how does your crank shaft fit into your new bearings? If tight then you cannot use the top hat (so Shimano seals are also redundant) if loose then you need the top hat.
Because of the extra 1mm it is difficult to know where the bearings will be loaded when you tighten up the non drive crank arm with the shimano seal in place. You might have to leave it out. I think you will have to try it and see.
Correct width bearings with seals would have been better, if they exist.

Thanks, Guys.

My experience of “modulation” differences was when I went from standard to sintered pads on Shimano brakes. Suddenly there was very little lever movement/effort for my braking. I don’t mean taking up the slack I am talking about after pad/disc contact. Quite grabby but it did wear off.
So I recon that the pad friction properties must have a large effect on the modulation. If a pad needed a fair bit of pressure on the disc to get some heat and start stopping then these would give good modulation. If the pads gripped at cold then they would be grabby. Someone on here was describing these two types of friction related to – you guessed it – pad bedding in.
So, does pad bedding in affect modulation?

If you don’t leave a bit of a flap then second use is really difficult – keeping the “strip” cented on the rim.

I like the Bonty rim strips as they try to mimic the UST shoulders that you have on a UST rim. Worked well on my (19mm)WTB rims too wide for my (17mm)Alex rims (other sizes available?). £20 for a pair with sealant from LBS J Atkins Leamington.
No flaps either!

I have re-used the rim strip(snipped inner tube) when I changed tyres. It was a real fiddle, though, to get the edges lined up with the rim edges as I had cut them very close and they kept sinking into the rim as I was trying to inflate the tyre. The second set I did I left more of an overlap- Not as pretty but I think I will be able to guarantee coverage.
Did you have any sealant in the tyre? If you did then I would imagine the damage must be quite bad. I would use a std patch on the inside of the tyre if I thought the damage wasn’t too bad but I have not had to do this yet. Someone said super glue worked well too.

I wonder if non bedded in pads absorb water more than “cooked” ones?
I have noticed extra drag after wet rides that disappears next day after drying out.
This could mean wear throughout the ride even when not braking and perhaps a softening of the pads.

Just an idea.

I seem to remember a study that said the bloke in front gets a small advantage. Obviously the bigger advantage of the draughter should be shared.

I took a look at the EBC web site ref bedding in pads and then went to the MTB section and spotted a Warning about no warranty when their pads are used with some fancy saw-type rotors. Another possible factor?

Another Disc brake fan here.

Farticus
Have you actually ridden the things yet? I wonder if the pads are not parralel and need bedding in before you even start all the setting malarky.

You don’t need a huge rotor clearance if the rotor is true and the caliper centred on it.
Is the pad touching the rotor all the way round? no= rotor needs tweeking.
yes, one pad contact,=caliper needs centring. Undo mounting bolts, squeeze lever, tighten bolts alternatly small amount at a time to prevent caliper twisting.
Sometimes one piston can move more than the other and this means that the other hits the rotor first and deflects the rotor. Try to free off any stickyness or compensate for the piston that is not retracting fully by biasing the caliper as you tighten(3 hands needed)

Good luck.

I had this on my Trek. The Freehub is an oddball (It gets a mention on Sheldon, I think). The stops at the end of the splines are too far inboard.
I made a spacer to cure it. A bought part might be available.

Exactly what I fancy doing but with 3 NIMH batteries per torch to keep the voltage/lumins up or utilising a 7.2v R/C pack I have.
I have seen quite some variation in the beam shape with these. 1st one very tight, 2nd tight but with a nice corrona and 3rd one much more spread!
Which component/s cause the variation I don’t know,yet.

I have been using Ghetto tubeless for a year now and the only puncture I had was when I removed a thorn in front of an audience to show off the sealing properties of the system. Down she went – sealant had dried out(V porous Conti tyres).Alex dp17s/ACX & Pan TR.

I got some Bonty strips,valves and sealant recently and these went on and pumped up ridiculously easy with some reasuring “pings” as the beads located into the rims. WTB Laser trails/ACX & Pan TR.

Try these cheapskate methods first before buying the expensive kit.

I use the dis-used railway lines from Radford Sem out to Long Itch and back on the canal( This afternoon ) for a local. A bit straight but OK. Get there quick before it goes the same sanitised way as the Cubbington stretch of the RW line.
Done at night its good fun too.

I tried the Bontrager strips but couldn’t get them into my Alex DP17s rims.
I thought they must be for the specific Bonty rims.

I might dig them out and try again when I get some new wheels (719s anybody?)