Lets hope she hangs……period.

Rutland were doing a cheap copy a while back and the Formula kit works too(UK Bike Store) except you need a pair of clamps(Ikea bag closures). I think the connectors can be bought off CRC – Magura barbs – check they are M5.

I've got 5s & 3s on my bikes but with 180/160 rotas.
Heres my twopen'th.
When you have got them bled work the pistons in and out a few times with some brake fluid on them(pads removed!). If one piston sticks block the other and work the stuck one till it is free.
Align the caliper by loosening the two bolts, a bit of lube on the top & bottom faces of the caliper where the bolts go through. Sqeeze lever GENTLY and tighten the caliper bolts a tiny bit at a time alternating between the two to ensure that no twist is put on the caliper.
Even if there is a bit of rubbing at this point use the bike.Then re-align the caliper again.
This has worked well for me two or three times, now – Good luck (especially with the bleeding!)

I don't know about the others but I have a Mk1 Phantom and it is rediculously warm and almost a waterproof!
Its the best piece of kit I have.

They were designed and most of the engineering done at Gaydon but BMW hung on to it and Cowley when they split from Rover. Thet knew a good thing when they saw it! We got the Range Rover which they had a large part in so swings and roundabouts.
Still a bit bitter, though, when I see one.

Smaller daughter uses a Halfords XC 24* (The alum one) with some reduced sprung Manitou Axels. Its not bad, either. Has the benefit of coming with one cable disc & disc wheel, Small(11"?) frame and cheap if you can drop on one on ebay.
It was £100 new and has served the three of my kids well.

My daughter(11) rides a Mongoose Rockadile and it has a real nice frame but no rear disc mount but it looks like it would take one of them A2Z jobbies.
26" forks(RS Dart with weak springs and lowered travel) jack the front up a bit but it still seems to ride very well.

Halfords silicon spray here with the ocasional dribble of fork oil down past the dust seals by pinching them.
Marz bombers X4 and Fox shock.
However I do get the feeling that if I poured grit down the bombers they'd still be alright.

As an apprentice I was cyling home when a GT6 overtook me.
I didn't know what it was but I liked it so sped up to catch it in traffic.
I couldn't beleive it when I read "Triumph", I was a Triumph apprentice, for Christ's sake.
These were out of production by a couple of years but I saw the last Spitfire and the last TR7 roll off the lines at Canley( Now a Tescos/Muckdonalds/KFC/warehouse kind of place).
Got a Herald convertible on the garage for restoring if anyone's interested?

I've got an old Summit and use it with Memory-map and it works real well.
Another programme is the freebee Where's the path( OS & GoogleEarth side by side) which looks good but I am having difficulty with it talking to my Summit at the mo.

AA for me every time.
When I have had to have them out they really seem to know what they are doing (and I'm no mug with cars myself) and are keen to get you going again.
RAC just want to put your car on a local garage's transporter, in my experience.

I am a waver/saluter, me, and seem to have got most of the Bikes I see of a work day waving back.
I just can't seem to acknowledge scooters, though I have been fooled by some giant Honda thing on several occasions and it didn't actually hurt me.

My mate has exactly the same problem on exactly the same brakes.
Strange trombone like noises as he tooled gently around the carpark last Friday.
It looks like Shimano don't do a service kit so its a new caliper from CRC for £30(includes new pads,though).

Gore Phantom here and looking forward to getting it out for its third winter.
I don't think I've ever had anything on under it, either!

There is a medium MKII for sale on RADAR now – brand new.

On my commencal I cannot get rid of all the slack in my chain when on small front and about 6 at the back due to the slack needed for sus movement.
You should NOT be able to lower your front mech to avoid chain contact if currently set correctly or it will crash into your big front ring(should be 2mm gap).

Has the rear mech jockey cage rotated backwards so much that the lower wheel is higher than the top wheel before a usable gear at the back is reached(in conjunction with your granny front)
You might have a short or medium cage mech where you need a long one.

The bite point is unaffected by the grub screw, it just positions the lever at rest on mine.
The 7s allow this ajustment.

Does anyone know a way to change the bite point by over filling or such like?

I was thinking of putting a washer on the pushrod on the inboard side of the circlip to stop the rod retracting so far from the poston.

Have you got the correct chain length?
Are your jockey wheels worn out?
Have you had the rear mech off and fiddled with the return spring and/or the position on the hanger?

I had this but thought the Spesh footbeds were expensive so made some out of a cork floor tile I had kicking around.
Cut the shape out then sanded it down to give a wedge and it worked a treat(Under the original footbed).

– Yes, I am a cheapskate.

When I have used discs from different systems with my Avids I checked the disc thickness and then did a bit of tuning of the pad/caliper position with some washers under the caliper mounts.

Commenting on tyres is difficult because of the many variables but….
Nahhh, especially for the winter.

I will mostly be on Trailraker and ACXs when the weather breaks.

Hammerite is NOT thinned with white spirit!!
You have to use Hammereite thinners.

The brush on stuff is really difficult to get a nice job done with – use the spray can stuff – If you have to have Hammerite.
I prefer the smoothrite paint but to be honest I would go with the powdercoating too.

Not meaning to be cheaky,Woodsman, but you're not over-tightening and killing them are you?

I'm a fan of the lizard skin covers for the bottom bearing – velcro at the front and remove after wet ride or bike wash.

Me and the lad had a play on a free-bee called Monkeyjam.

My front brake has a lot of travel but as soon as that has been taken up it is good and hard like my 5s. I haven't touched this yet.

I think the rubber band on the lever puts a "set" on the master cylinder seals so rejouvenating(?) them giving instant pumping untill they relax again.

I'll try the lever sroking while filling from the caliper then, Boblo.

Cheers, guys.
According to the SRAM website the 5s are able to cope with something called "All Mountain" where the 3s cannot."Why" is not explained.

The also get something called indexed lever adjustment – on 09 split clamp lever assy. But mine is the older type so probably doesn't have that.

I think I am having them on my bike.

Bikes are really very quiet and its the making people jump that upsets them IMO. But sometimes you just can't help it.
Me and a mate were riding towards a group of three old walkers stood in the middle of a bridleway and I was ringing my bell constantly as we approached. As I got near I slowed and was about to stop as I couldn't get past and I knew they were oblivious.
The three finaly registered us.
The two blokes did a comedy bimble into each other-each one trying to get to the other's side of the lane.
And the woman turned to us with such a look of hatred that gradually disolved as she realised what that irritating ringing noise was that she had been hearing for the last 5 minutes!
"Thank-you" she said.
And I said thanks and rode on laughing my head off.

I had a ball of solid sealant rolling around in one of my tyres and wondered if it was bought on by my use of CO2 to inflate it when I did the tubeless conversion.
By the way – I was using JRA wheel milk.

I now let a lot of the "air" out of my seated tyre and re inflate several times to purge the CO2 from the tyre. Or use my mate's compressor.

Some other guy on here had a similar re-occuring brake failure and it was fluid seeping past a seal and onto the disc while the bike was standing. He would then run the bike, burn off the contamination and have good brakes until he got the bike out of his shed for his next ride.

Good luck!

I planned two routes on Memory map and put them on my old Summit as Tracklogs for our trip up to the NY moors and was really impressed with how easy it was to follow.
Went wrong twice – once when I had the scale(zoom) wrong and once where I was unable to see a turn was required due to the scarry speed I was doing on some rough stuff.
Got the Summit mounted on my bars and can read it easily.
I had nice big prints of our route from MM to hand round our group too, which was handy.

I run with my brake lever assys inside my gear change assys so that I can get my index fingers on the brake lever ends. Could this help?

The brake levers that you have, can you adjust where they are at rest as well as the bite point?

I made the mistake of trying to tame the rear end of my Meta 5 by increasing the damping up to 2 clicks away from full. The bike used to ping off rocks etc and I took it as being uncontrolled bouncing.
How wrong can you be?
After reading something on here about "bracketing" to optimise settings I could not believe the improvement when I backed the damping right off and upped the pressure a bit.
What was happening of course was packing down, not neccessaraly to fully down but into the area where the spring rate did not allow the sus to cope with the next hit.
I really had a downer on the Meta and had gone back to a Hard tail but I love it now.

Don’t forget that there are standard ACXs and Gum-bi TRs to choose from. I stuck a 2.3 TR on the front of my hardtail and am very impressed (19mil WTB rim).I’ve put these wheels/tyres on my Meta now and they did well XCing on the N York Moors.Got an XR on the back.
All these run tubeless at c30psi.

After sifting through this lot I fixed my climbing problem.
Saddle forward c10mm, body position/shape.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/wandering-all-over-the-shop-when-climging

I am usually in 22/32 up real steep stuff so legs going pretty slow.
I have toyed with the idea of going up one and standing but on a long one I suspect I will die.
A low gear winching technique whilst sat seems best but is it the right thing to do?

It seems very marginal as the front wheel is not waving in the air it is just not steering me.

I push and the pedals go round!
Not bad I THINK. I don’t slip the back wheel much.Is that a clue?

HD is designed for 100mm. I think. Commi is standard with a 15mm longer stem (it was damned short before).
I have moved the commi saddle forward by 10mm but haven’t tried it yet(Friday I will).

I bought my road bike off them some years back. It wasn’t quite right so they had it back and put everything right with no fuss or argument.
They seemed a pretty good outfit to me, too.

I never think to shop there, though, for my MTB stuff.

TomB
If Gymaint doesn’t take you up on the Marz MXs can I have them (if the steerer is suitabe)?

Sorry for the Hijack
Email in profile.

Cheers.

We use Just Kampers – The VW Camper parts people.

They just killed our three chickens.
One missing, one headless and one throatless.

Got to explain things to the kids, now.