If I could get her to be my friend on anything………
Only joking!
We share the same email ad.
How about I create a dummy email account on my phone an get the PC account to look for that?

Can I have your old Avids?

HT11 bearing puller.
Dia 24mm washer cut in half and shaped at the sawn outer corners so they can be inserted behind the bearing prior to inserting a socket and whacking.

Yes, Don't overtighten the pre-load and have them apart every year for a clean and grease.
I still only got to 2.5 years before the drive side bearing rusted out.

If you replace the bearings and the original failure was due to seal failure…. well it may fail quickly again unless the new bearings have additional sealing.
New bearings might not be built for low speed/cycling type work so it might be worth having them apart and packing them full of a suitable grease too.

I was thinking that the "O" ring – 10mm OD 6mmID 2mm section – would not see that much(if any) brake fluid as it is behind the Hydraulic seal.
I have found some at simply bearings.co.uk and they are Nitrile but say nothing about DOT4 compatabillity. I'll pack between the seal and "O" ring with brake grease.

Hein Gericke stuff here, Gortex jacket & boots(second pair).
Realy waterproofand warm gear and well thought out. Triumph leather trousers and gloves which are pretty waterproof too.

My Dad used to love all things Avian especially these fellas.
And then he started racing pigeons.
Now he hates them. And the Sparrowhawk that took the head off his prize beauty as it was sitting on the tellegraph pole in his garden.
Give me the falcons/hawks any day.
Some predator prog on BBC1 tonight said they do 200mph in their stoop!

French Revolutions by Tim Moore. Humourous.Very.

I do 25 miles each way – Mway when late – almost every working day on my Triumph Sprint RS and its ace.
You will end up taking a longer slower more enjoyable route after a while, i bet.
Invest in some good kit and the weather will only take the edge off your enjoyment.
I get 50+ mpg if I keep the speeds leagal-ish, 220 miiles to the tank-full. And it is quicker than in my car.
If you get the bug you will go right off cars – very dull unless something a bit special.

Realy disliked it and would never go again.
Got food poisoning and could not wait to get away.
Just before the exit from every ride there was a shop to go through full of related merchandise and hard sell.
Kids liked it but never pleaded to go back.

Small World….Jesus Christ, on and on it went.

Hope your time there is more bearable than mine was.

I'll buy with money a 185 when all the to-ing and fro-ing is done.
Email address in profile if interested.

Cheers.

Rather than The split 20" tube method, and dependant on the wheel type, you can fit Bontrager rim strips & valves and this works very well.
I've got Conti Vert and Bonti ACX on a pair of WTB Laserdisc trails(19mm)and trailraker on actual Bonti rims(19mm again) I couldn't get the rim strips I had to fit on the 17mm rims I had.

On both wheel sets the tyre beads made a reasuring bang as they went onto the rims when inflated and even when completely deflated they are held there by the strip's shoulders.

Another tip for any method used is to fit the tyre to a wheel with a tube in for a day or two to give it shape. The inside-out method didn't work for me.

I used the green plastic washing up abrasive for pots and pans to smooth off a burr.
It didn't touch the finish on the stanchion.
Gentle rubbing and the pad kept snagging the burr till it was gone.

Bit late but..
I love my RS and ride it to work every day( missed a few this year with the snow).
There is faster and nimbler and prettier stuff out there but as a tool its ace.
220mles/tank, 100+ comfy cruising(never seen together).
And if you do keep it a while they go and go( nearly 80k).
Sometimes its the only reason I get up for work – the ride in.

I have a question too.
I knocked my bearings out using a large washer cut in half and shaped a little so that I could insert the pieces one at a time behind the bearing and then use a socket through the bearing and onto the washer. Apply hammer.
But…. Bearings are 6 mm wide not 7mm wide. (Deore BB ?)
Replacements unobtainable as far as I can see.
Any ideas? I want to use the black top hat bits, by the way.

I've got two of these from Argos.
I only use the rear and only the main part of that!( not the extender bit with the reflector or the arm that is between the guard and the clamp or the down tube front guard)
It looks a lot better than the picture and only £8.
Works a treat.
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/0363558/c_1/1%7Ccategory_root%7CSports+and+leisure%7C14419152/Trail/searchtext%3ETEERI.htm

There is a bit of track I have looked at doing that starts on the right as you go UP the road just before the left turn. It goes through the wood parallel to the road as far as the pub/castle and then turns into a foot path for 2km then back to BW again dropping into Lower Tysoe.

Not the best stuff for riding, round here, is it? Ah well…

Kits are available with varying amounts of stuff in for the levers.
I got a pair for my 5's £11 each LBS. They do/did them at CRC too – had to use their web site to identify correct kit to LBC as they got it wrong first time around as the worded descriptions are poor.

Sorry to jump in with my own related question but…
I've just bought a laptop off a mate and it still has his name in as the "owner". Everything else has been deleted off it.
There is no OS disc with it.

What is the best way to set it up as mine?

Thanks, Guys.

All you Mud-x lovers – What is the difference between these and ACX's I like running?
When I looked I could barely tell them apart.

Thanks, Ski.

Different design(simpler) than the above types – Maxxraxx.
Ours takes 5 bikes (2 x 24" 3 x 26")with the bars swivelled 90deg and some pedals removed.
http://www.maxxraxx.co.uk/?gclid=CLi-odjovJ8CFcts4wod6D740g

Don't be put off the south by the driving. We have bombed down there a couple of times through the night and, although it's a long way, the roads are very good.
We pulled in to fuel up at about 3am and the service station was heaving with famillies sitting around taking a break – Fantastic.

I love France, me.

Here are some ideas from a bloke with old 5s & 3s.

Pulsing – Are the pads overlapping onto the spokes of the disc?Pack out the caliper with washers.
Disc not centeral – To the caliper centreline? Push the pistons fully in. Pump them out with the lever with the caliper loose. If one piston has come out further than the other then try lubing them with B fluid and working them in and out. If one piston is still out further than the other then repeat but this time as you pump the lever bias the caliper to restrict the movement of the non sticking piston(pressing the pad against the disc with some support to the other side of the disc as they are quite week in this direction).
When alligning you need to pump the lever until the pads clamp the disc GENTLY and then tighten the caliper screws a tiny bit at a time alternately. Make sure the bolts have washers and that they can rotate. Clean and lube the mating surfaces.

Hope I am not teaching you to suck eggs!
Good luck!

"We're ALL gonna die."

Me, the lad(13) and his mate watched it a week or so back.
Not a peep out of them for the duration!

Nice one!
I love stuff like that. Looks better than my innertube Neoguard.
Only slight mod I would make would be holes instead of slits for the zip-ties to stop splitting.
Some of these might start appearing on the wife's/kid's bikes.

I'm too slow at the mo to set the camera up for the shot and end up forgetting one (or seven!) of the the settings or features that would make the shot.

Sat here thinking I realise that I had spot metered on the kids AND compensated for the snow all around them so have OVER compensated = blown highlights (yes?).

Histogram look-see after first shot would have shown this up. Did I look? Will I remember to look next time?

I'm not watching the shutter speed either! ISO adjustment probably needed.

Must… resist… full… auto….

Just bought a Canon 450d and am deturmined not to use the muppet auto part of the dial(Landscape, sport, portrait etc)

Aperture priority set, then, and attempting the EV compensation of around 1.5 and he snow is burnt out, my images are blurred – I just aint got it.

Mrs imp sticks it on the muppetist setting on the thing(Green square) and hey presto – Nice looking images.

Its going to take a while I reckon.

When I have done touring in the past I used a clear DVD case as a map holder held to the bars with a huge rubber O ring.
I had a printed road route off Auto-route that we folowed and it worked well.

Garmin Summit & Memory-map.
Only one I have used and it worked a treat on our two rides up on the N York moors.
Simple. No mapping just a line on a screen to follow. Easy to read as you belt along.

Take a look at the Husqvarnas.
I had a 2000 410 e and really liked it.
They do a 600 too but have to admit if I was buying again I would get something smaller for off road.
You might do better with two bikes rather than peeing about changing wheels and brakes etc for on/off road. Thats what I did.

Young men – SOD
The Tenant – Play dead
Lagarija Nick – Bauhaus
Valentine – Sisters
Tension – Killing joke

Friday night down the D & T in Cov… 25 years ago.

I thought that the front Bonti strip was symetric and the rear was asymetric?
I don't know if this is relevent but ….

It didn't matter to me as I used them on WTB Laserdiscs and they worked a treat.

I love my Sprint RS and they can be got quite cheaply.
Ive done 70k+ on mine and had very little bother from it.
108BHP, 55mpg, 220m/tankfull and scares the shit out of me(in a good way)when I give it a hand-full.
I'm 5'7" and am OK on it.

The beauty of the simple Garmins is that you can see if you are following your route or have deviated with just a quick glance down which is really usefull if you are hammering down something steep pulling "that" face!

It just gives you the shape of the whole route and your position. You just zoom down to the big scale and you can see yourself on the line you are following in line with your direction of travel. As you go along the turns appear at the top of you screen and move towards your position and when they align – voila there is your turn! Sometimes.

I use Memory map to plot my routes but Wheresthepath looks good and is free(Donation).

I was chuffed to bits with my old Summit when we used it for a couple of rides up the N York Moors.

We saw May filming in a pub in Cornwall.
The kids spotted him and came running out to tell us then went back in to the pub to stalk him from behind the fish tank and fruit machine.
Still waiting for this scene but its probably on the cutting room floor.

Kaesae,
Interested in the bearing kit amd maybe the tools For my '07 Meta 5.5 main bearing change – this will probably get me of my arse to do the job.

Please email me with some prices and tips if you can.

Email in profile.

Cheers.

Fill them bearings with waterproof grease, Don't assume the manufacturer has!
My OEM bearings were bone dry but I was in time to save them – except for the big set which now needs changing.
Trying to drum up some enthusiasm to mke a start so keep us informed.

Here we go – WD40 the bane of rubber seals.
It did for my old Honda's caliper seals.
I remember the memo doing the rounds about the effects of WD on rubber.

Thanks guys.
I wish I had a better grasp of things mobile.