Yes, I checked out both the vidoes(Keaeau & other) and they say two threads and wheel fully out.I may try again but the lever feels good at the moment.
BD Are you replying to my thread? Surely inanimate objects cannot bring forth such feelings?

I am building up a 14" Trek frame and the cable holder on the seat tube is pointing the cable down & towards the non-drive side so I need a low clamp one to keep the cable running straight out of the outer.It would be a real sharp turn to get the cable on to a high clamp due in part to the close proximity of the components(short seat tube)

On my 16" Handsome dog I have a high clamp SRAM unit but looking at it it looks like it should have been a low clamp but the angle is not quite so acute due to the extra length of seat tube &/or the cable holder angle.

Andy.
Aces. Good job I wasn,t drinking.

+1 for finishing the tyre on rim at the valve.
Make sure you get the bead into the rim's well as it goes on.
Also leave the tyre in the sun to warm up.

I had a second hand ACX that I bust the bead on trying to get it on my bonty rims so there is some variation. I'm usually good with tyres on rims.

My 2007 Meta(small) cam with a layback, I'm sure, which promptly bent.
It was replace with an Easton layback and I put a slightly longer stem(15mm?) on too as I found the steering a bit sharp.
My other bike(HT) has the short stem and I am used to that now.

By "grabby" I mean they are difficult to regulate the amount of braking power you are applying. They are like an on/off switch.
Its nothing to do with the amount of power that is available(loads)its just difficult to brake gently.

A little bit of air in the system sounds like it would work but also sounds dead wrong to me.

What would be on the disc or rotor that would INCREASE the friction to such an extent?

Surely its a mechanical problem?

So basically anything other than Scott skinny hand-pummelling sh1t.

Thanks guys.

I don't mind a bit fatter. I don't have "P0rn star hands".

I am quite a fan of tubeless and have tried the ghetto method which worked but was a faff but have now settled for the Bontrager rim strips/valves. These have worked really well on Bonti wheels(obviously) and on WTB laserthings (both 19mm width – My 17mm wheels would not take the strip others might)
They give your rim the UST profile that makes inflation V easy and sopports the bead against the rim – even when fully deflated.
Bonti and Conti tyres were used.

Oil is not old or mashed.
Can't see new oil taking up this amount of slack.
Fettling required, I reckon.

Sprint RS
Cheap, run by older blokes so less thrashed(Me),50-55mpg, 220m/tank, 150mph.
Capable of high mileage.Good lights, good brakes,Fun

I've got X7s and this happened. Had them apart while on the bars but found that the return spring, if that was the problem, was pretty inaccessable. Bought some newer ones off here and put them on the bike.

I then had a fiddle with the allan screw head on the underside of the old unit and hey presto – fully returning lever.

Don't know what I did but it might be worth a go.

My two girl's bikes have got std forks on that I have reduced the travel and spring rate on. They work fine.
Its the spring rate change that is the most difficult to acheive unless you can get an air-sprung fork.

I ride a motorbike to work most days and in the past have experienced that "Ahhh I just waved to a Scooter!" moment.
I wave to everyone now – though it does feel a bit….. well, you know – odd – with a scooter!

Muddy
That was Mrs imp's idea too.

Phi & Onza
They are the ones Mrs imp has her eye on! Vibram soles FFS!!

Its a Staffy by the looks of it on the advert – just before he rips them off and eats them! And that's my worry.

Just to reitterate we will be bimbling along at my daughters SLOW pace, stopping for a swim, icecream, dinner, cream tea etc and doing 20 miles in a whole day. I now believe that she will NOT do double as she will be on the lead when we are on the roads and the cycle tracks will not allow her free roaming.

Thanks for the input – especially from those who have real experience on the subject.

Just had a look on t'web and plenty of people have walked the Wainwright C2C(200 miles) with their dogs so I am quite confident it won't hurt her – tire her yes.
They do mention sore paws towards the end of the trip.
They do not mention death by exhaustion.

Just checked and the vet told my wife today(who explained the whole trip to him while he examined the dog) that the distance was no problem and that boots would be a good idea to have in reserve or for occasional use.

I might get some panniers for her, now I know that.

I think people are assuming I am driving a Husky team here.
It will be VERY gentle! 20 miles/day and not in one hit.And not in five hits, probably.
Anyone done anything like this before?(The holliday not the getting slammed as cruel Bastid)

One vet says "yes" to shoes and so does Mrs imp(she's dying to get them AND a waterproof!)
Dog is used to riding with Mrs imp every day.

The hydration and cooling is a good point. The kids are not racers and we will be doing the speed of the slowest so I think she will be OK on that front.
Training up for her (and the kids(and me with the ruddy trailer)) has commenced!

My mate had weeping Shimanos and they would clean up with some fierce use but be contaminated again for the next ride. Leek was between the two caliper halves – somthing wrong with the o ring recession one/both halves.

I love loud burping – when its me doing it.
I can dispense with my bell when on top form.
Slight change in the public's reaction to my audible warning, though.

I don't know Hope hubs but might it be that the axle is bent along with the QR and so its not releasing?
Pics would help.

The corrosion might be from water that has been taken into the fluid past the piston seals. Regular bleeding might be the solution – not just when they feel a bit spongey. Most automotive systems say change the fluid every year or two. Maybe our stuff needs changing even more regularly.

First time I went to Egypt I thought they might be a good candidate – but was there for only a day.
Having just spent two weeks there I have quite an admiration for them.

Very varied vehicular types – cars, lories, busses, donkeys, traps, m/bikes. People milling about all over the pavements AND roads. No road markings that I could see and it all seemed to work really well with just a load of tooting of horns-"I am here" not "F off" and a flash of headlamps. And the roads were reall full in the cities.
I saw no bad tempered stuff at all and the only hold ups were when a dignatory of some sort was in town.

Not Absolutely sure but Hammerite thinners might be it.

They are playing at the assembly in Leamington quite soon and I've been umming and ahing whether to go and see them.
Will it ruin my memories of them from when we were both young?
Will I be allowed to strip to the waist(top half) and leap and chicken about?
Will I be ABLE to strip to the waist(top half) and leap and chicken about?

There are only two of the original outfit left isn't there?

If they are 19mm rims, as I believe, then you could probably use Bontrager rim strips and valves.
I've used these successfuly on Bonti rims(obviuosly) and WTB Lazerlite Trail.
Very easy and the strip shape helps support the bead.

My bearings that I knocked out of my Shimano BB were only 6mm wide.
Has anyone seen any of these for sale?
Are the 6mm ones in the lower spec'd BBs or older models?

Cheers.

Ben Kingsley.
Christ, I backed away from the telly when I first saw him in Sexy Beast!

Proper actor – Same bloke is Ghandi one day and that thing the next.

I have had sealant dry up into a ball and roll about in my tubeless tyres but it wasn't a rattle really.
And I have had a swarf off the rim tinkling in my road bike's rim for years.

I will do everything in my power to stop them(With a half size pencil in a small wooden cubicle)but I think you might be correct.

Our only chance is if They wheel out the Thatcher to make a special guest appearance somewhere and it reminds the man in the street what fuels these….. these ….people?

Stickey cables are a big favourite for this sort of stuff.
Adjust down to first then, without moving the cranks, up to top.
With the slack available pop out the cable outers from the frame lugs and lube with a spray. The one down by the mech is the most likely to be gritty.
Put it back together, pull on the inner to settle everything down again and set up your gear change.

Sorry if I am teaching ou to suck eggs!

Good luck.

M6
That was pretty helpful, thanks.
With a bit of look that should work.

Cheers.

Ooo Mr Gaz I like that!

These "Horrid" people who drive these machines keep me and 5000 others in a job at Solihull so I thank them and hope they enjoy their Sports. Very few of us are big bosses rolling in dosh.

Bad drivers are bad driver's – its not the car's fault that some nobs have got hold of them or are affected by them in a way that increases their nobishness.

They are great motors if a bit thirsty and I am quite proud that I have had abit to do with them and the Discovery over the years.

That bit at Llandegla where you suddenly find yourself 100ft in the air on a long wooden pallet makes my palms sweat – even now as I am typing!
And you can't see where the end goes till you're on it.

I am just glad there isn't a corner up there – I am sh.. at the corners.

I would be wary of using WD40 on anything with rubber seals as I believe it causes them to swell and degrade.
Years ago a tech buletin went around Rover/Landrover saying do not use WD40 to lube suspension bushes when fitting due to this effect.
I used to clean my old Honda's caliper up using it and when I stripped it all the rubber stuff looked like it came out of a caliper twice the size!
Recently I have stripped a couple of sets of Juicies and found the O ring on the piston in the lever to be swollen and I suspect WD40/GT85 contamination.

Be wary of setting them with too much damping like I did on my Meta.
I got to hate that bike.
I managed to interperate bouncing/pinging off obsticals as needing more damping when it needed less because it was packing down into the higher spring rate areas of the stroke.
Don't forget the obvious one that upping the pre load affects the ammount of damping you need.
If you are an average size/weight bloke then start in the middle settings and adjust one thing at a time a little bit at a time.
It was a reverlation when I backed the damping off the Meta and upped the rear preload and I started to like the ol' gal again.

I am at work now and logged into Latitude on the work's PC and it has pinpointed me a treat.

Not sure how turned on the mobile needs to be, though. Off, Standby, on, Google maps on, Google Lattitude on.

Needs a bit of experimenting but looks quite good.

Simpler might be to drill and tap with next size up if there is enough meat around the holes and you can get a bolt.

180 on the front gives you better braking for a very small weight/cost penalty.
I have to admit that 160 only felt inadequate on a couple of occasions with my style of riding. When I went to the lakes I think.(Meta5 with Formula 18s)
I use 180 on the front of both my bikes now.