Not specific enough, eh?

Push-scooters, I am talking about.
Slamm?
Madd?
Razor?

I’ve got an Apollo XC24 Disc,too, but the aluminium one with a Manitou fork & combi brake/shifter upgrade.
Based in Leamington spa area if interested.

Email in profile.

My worry with the ghetto method using tape is that the tyre is sealing against the rim but the standard tyre bead system does not hold well enough to prevent burping (so UST was invented). Ghetto with a split tube makes this a non-issue as the tyre is sealing against the split tube so if the bead moves the tube goes with it.
I have gone for the Bontrager rim-strips as these are shaped to mimic UST rims and are cheap. Never had a burp.
I use Joe’s sealant but would rally like to start making some home-brew.

Sea Town – just out of Chideock.
Great pub(The Anchor)
Walk up Golden Cap.
Fossils on the beach.
Beachcasting.
Car park.

I serviced a pair of RS Psylos which have a few gubbins and springs in and you have to bleed them. But these are Space age compared to the Marzocchi MX comps I did last night! What, four component in the damper leg and three in the other?
Christ, no wonder they go on and on!

We ride out of Upper Brailes(good pub) round and up the hill and it is quite good fun. Get the OS out.

The imp family and dog did it last year and it was a nice ride.
I had each day routed on Memory map then on to a simple Garmin but it was well signed.
We B&B’d it with 30 miles per day – too long for youngest(10) as it meant we were getting in, eating and going to bed on a couple of occasions.

+1 for the Bonties.
And WTB do a couple – Lazer disc trail (Bit heavy) and a speed disc one I know nothing about but they crop up now and again and at a good price.

I find that the Avid method of having the caliper slightly loose, sqeezing the lever gently and tightening the bolts a tiny bit at a time alternating from one to the other……..sometimes works.

The problem can be that the pistons are not moving equally so you have to press the caliper hard onto the disc to restrict the free-er piston’s movement as you tighten the bolts a bit at a time.

Day the Earth stood still.
And every Sunday afternoon – The Invaders!

Last bike build I could only find Shimanos so got an XT but am dissapointed. A lot more effort required than on my old build with the X9 and it is a very similar set-up – Hardtail top clamp, top pull X7 lever.
Keeping an eye open for an X9.

We bought those Ruff wear ones for our dog when we did the Devon C2C.
They wouldn’t stay on. We did not persist for too long with them. She didn’t mind them, but perhaps her long hair had something to do with their failure to stay put.

Her feet stayed pretty healthy but it wasn’t sharp flints she was on.

It has to be The Good, The Bad & The Ugly “I’m innocent of anything!”

The Treasure of The Sierre Madre is class, too – “We don’t need no stinking badges!”

I had a Halfords 12″ Al frame bike (24″ wheels) they did for £100 and put a cheap but propper fork on with reduced travel, spring & damping.
It worked really well and should sell OK too.

Next up was a Rockadile 13″(24″ wheels). This is a much nicer, lighter frame amd I have put a similar fork on it again.

Both my girls have used these up to age 12.
I think they should sell on quite easily as there are not that many good small bikes out there.

I was riding a Comencal FS and built a HandsomeDog HT frame up for Mrs imp but it turned out too big for her but just right for me!
The Commi never turned a wheel in anger again.

For the riding I do (And the FoD is in that) a HT is dead-on.

As long as there is nothing too shonky on your build to spoil things I reckon you will really like the difference.

i had this and it was the O ring that protects the piston seal. it had swollen due to WD40 type lube getting on it.
I managed to “fix” it by flushing it out with silicon spray.
The O ring is a 2 x 10mm od if you need to replace.
Good luck.

Fuligin – The colour darker than black.

I have put a lizardskins headset protector around the non-drive beaaring housing to stop the shit getting in as it is always this side of my Shimano BBs that die. The neoprene flexes quite well with the arm to maintain a shield as it rotates.
I take it off to dry after a wet ride or when I wash the bike.

Sorry to poo-poo the grease port idea a bit but squeezing more grease in will not neccessarilly squeeze contaminated grease out, I would have thought.

Teva Terra-fi for me every summer.
Which ever you get, when they start to stink, wash em and soak em in white vinegar.

Bloke in the trap next to me was making a “nest”, the other day, before the main event (Crimping :D.)

I have got the Flying “something” mudlovers full lengthers and they work well.
They have a full length small diameter outer running in standard lengths of brake cable outer from frame lug to frame lug .

Few years ago I made a valve spring compressor for our W123 Merc 280TE.
A mate bought the original home and I photo’d it and made copy out of all mannor of tat I had lying about(couldn’t borrow it as his foreman was a tossa).
It allowed me to change all the valve stem seals – smoking into non-smoking without taking the head off.
Only just, though, as it collapsed on the last one in a Hollywood suspense film stylee.

And yes – great sense of acheivement.

We went to some dog enthusiasts show down London where they had loads of dog breeds and their enthusiastic owners. We had a short list and after the show had whittled it down to….

Tibetan Terrier.

Super clean, no hair-dropping, great with kids(Thinks she is one), agillity of a cat(really), very loving.

And just had 8 pups!

What are the pros & cons of single/double action and gravity/syphon?

I’ll be using it for plastic kits.

And that is a nice tank destroyer model, Geek.

Good selection on Ebay – if I knew what I was looking for!

Another vote for Handsome Dog.
Ridden a 16″ for a couple of years now with 120 Marz’s.
Lad has got it now.

Got an Etrex Summit and it worked really well with a couple of tracks loaded from Memory-Map when we did a couple of days riding round the North york moors.
I was following the breadcrum/stick man and only went wrong the once where I missed a turn when travelling at high speed on some rough stuff.
I think the simple screen graphics without a background map works really well for when you are on the bike.
Only gets used on these sort of outings, though, as I am not interested how slowly I am going on my local runs.

Not wanting to teach egg sucking but you can play around with the lacing to allow ankle flex on the bike and invest in some agressive pedals or longer pedal-pins. They might damage the shoe’s sole, though.
Long pins ate into my TNF hedgehogs but not my Hi-tech cheapy boots.

I use a Park tool with Muc-off in.
Hose off and then drive out the water and any dirt left arround with WD40 fired onto the chain held in a rag. Followed by rub with kitchen roll to draw out the remainder. Passes the crunchy-chain test.
I have another chain in jam-jar in white spirit to swap over every month or so.

I found a Specialized bulletin saying that one of there bikes fitted with Avid Something-higher-in-the-range-than-7s needed to have the rotors changed to solid ones due to noise issues. They were changing them for free.

I have just bought one second hand so will report back when it turns up and I’ve had it on a while.

My 7s squeel like hell and I can usually fix them temperarily by cleaning the pads(sintered) off on wet’n’dry and applying copper grease to their backs.

I reckon it is something to do with the damp getting into the pad matl at this time of the year and then not getting warm enough to dry out and keep the contact surface of the pad in the correct condition.

Just a guess though.

For anyone interested the lower bushes pushed down PAST the step-down in diameter and quite easily with a washer on top and a bit of tapping.

The top bushes were a tighter fit but still tapped in the same way.

The seals went in OK too.

On reflection the play in these forks may have been caused by the lower bushes moving up out of place and so a simple fix would be to have tapped them back down again into the smaller diameter part of the bore – saving me 30 plus quid!

Cheers LoCo.
I was going to compare the gap in the bush with it round the stancheon and then when inserted ON the step inside the leg. it should be the same I am thinking.

Size the bushes??!!
There was no mention of that in the Marz instructions!

I can see getting them in being a “Carefull” job to get them going in straight but the sizing bit has got me rattled!

Do the lower bushes sit ON the step down in diameter or just past it?
The ones I renoved were ON but were not well retained and fell out with little persuasion.

Its the frame angles that worry me when I am changing, building stuff up – components can be changed.
I can’t stand that feeling of the front wheel tucked back behind the bars that you used to get with older bikes – even with a shorter stem( un-slack head angle?).

Ive just posted about the rubber band on the brake lever technique and this might be apropriate.
When you bleed you might be flexing the master cylinder seal into a good shape which then gradually deteriorates and lets fluid past.

Doesn’t help much, I am afraid, as I doubt the seals are available – like everything else in the Shimano brake section of their catalogue.

When you press the lever you are SHUTTING the resevoir port!

I think what happens is that the seal in the master cylinder takes a set in the bore(full diameter)over night due to the pressure and the seals V section shape and so when you next use the brake it is pushing fluid right from the off where it had been passing down the bore a way before the pressure built up enough to make the seal open up to full diameter and so seal 100%.
Result is a much better brake but I don’t know if any air is removed.

Never tried it but I have heared of someone making a seal from a pair of Marigold gloves cut so that they seal against the leg and overlap the absorbant top bit.

Sorry for the hijack but any tips on changing the press-in bushes & seals on thes forks as Mrs imp’s need doing?

Ta.

Contact lenses and then glasses on top for close up / reading stuff aswell!
Surely that only happens to old B’stards!
Along with grey pubes and nasel hairs, both of which have forgotten what length to stop growing at.
No cords, though.

Put an advert out for the rear triangle – you might be lucky.
I thought they mostly went on the main frame(If you mean the swing-arm assy out back by “rear triangle”).

Yep, thats the Bunny.
Carefull of the widths, though, and you dont HAVE to use their super juice.