Its been said before but I just love the quote:

Mr Humphreys, said: “The fine is absolutely appalling. I am 77 years of age and the last fine I had was 35 to 40 years ago.

“Other than that I have never had a fine and I have had a licence for 60 years.”

So, apart from the fine he had he’s never had a fine! I’m glad he cleared that up for us.

When people put dirty washing up in the sink for later, or worse “just to soak”. It’s now another job to empty said sink and minging cold, dirty water before you can actually wash up

No, nothing doing there except for the bridleways and maybe some of the other fire road type paths I’m afraid. Those woods aren’t massive and are under a mix of land ownership, nature trusts, shoots etc. and I think that they include scientific interest.. all in all its not fertile ground for trails.

A while back on the trainer road podcast they were talking about the development that they do to combat this. To paraphrase they do work on it but the effect is quite specific to each turbo. I imagine that the other apps also tweak it about and I don’t notice it on mine as much as I used to, using systm/sufferfest for what it’s worth.
They also said that they get loads of emails complaining about this effect of intervals finishing late, but surprisingly no emails about intervals starting late. Apparently the data shows that the two go in step to a greater or lesser degree. Any which way, I fully sympathise as falling into the ERG black hole at the end of a beasting is the worst!

My yaris were pretty fresh but I’m glad that I had a look. For the sake of 15 mins, a dab of grease and a little bit of oil its worth checking for peace of mind.

@johnx2,
That would be a fundamental issue with using any training app if you have the wrong FTP set, that’s why people have said about doing an FTP test of some sort before cracking on to training.
Having said that there are a couple of things that you can or could do:
1) use the percentage controls to nudge up the effort, you can increase it to somewhere around +20% I think.
2) change it to level mode and use your gears, and stick it on a higher level of that’s still not hard enough!

And not to get too far into it as I don’t know your training background, but HR values can be a bit variable any may not always be the best guide. IT sounds like the RPE was lower than you were expecting though.

Really silly question but does it definitely unscrew? I only ask because I had the same issue then looked closer and the collar on my 2020 LEV is not a separate part. I couldn’t find any tech help on the KS website except the exploded diagram which confirmed this.
Turns out you have to hammer the inner post and keys up to knock the seal out the top of the outer post, which is pretty minging as disassembly procedures go. In short:
– Remove lower mechanism from outer sleeve and inner shaft (circlip then unscrew)
– Slide something (ideally a tube of some sort over the protruding shaft) up inside the outer sleeve to push against the bottom of the inner post
– A few sharp taps with a hammer to drive the seal and bushing out the top of the outer post
– Try not to drop all of the little keys.

There is a video on YouTube but it took some finding, it’s not hard but doesn’t feel great.

Nice one, thanks OP. Even with postage these work out about 50% of the price elsewhere, and with the added bonus of feeling like I’ve robbed Mike Ashley (I’ve not, but don’t burst my bubble)

Yup that’s the one
In in doubt compare it against the ones on he TF tuned site, they usually have a fair bit of information on there. Well done for finding 140mm in stock!

I’m not going to add much that hasn’t already been said but I’m a sufferfest turned systm faithful. Tried Zwift and the workouts are dull as ****, you get to chase a number and a glowing gate 🥱. Races were kind of fun but never got that into it and anything else felt like unproductive noodling about. Turbo time isn’t your classic type of fun so it needs to have a point, and I like how the sufferfest draws you along with it. Like when the minions add another 10s to your last interval because of some shenanigans, you know what’s happening but just grin, think ‘you bastards’ and dig in.
Having said all of that I’ve been liking the on location rides as stand ins for my early morning ‘commute’ when it’s too wet/icy to head out.

And I checked, it’s 3 taps to open the app and get a list of the sufferfest videos. I can cope with that

Sneaky edit: just found that you can do it in 3 taps rather than my previous 5! Open – Library – scroll down and select Sufferfest. 🥴

How do they come up size wise? I’m bang in the middle of a medium on the chart but I’ve been bitten by Madison’s wonky sizing before. Mostly on baggy shorts though, are these fairly true to the chart?

IMO you’re over thinking it. Sure there are (much) better dampers put there than Motion Control but I found it far from a joke and it was plenty rideable in my yari. Upgrading the air spring was night and day difference for me and only cost £40 and about 40 mins to fit with a lower service, upgrading the damper was appreciable too but less bang for buck.

For £500 I think the choice is between a yari/rev or a 2nd hand pike/lyric. Whichever, make sure is has a B1 or C1 air shaft

@iainc and others, thanks for the feedback 👍

@iainc, what’s your take on instinct Vs instinct solar then? Considering you’re just using it for sports rather than a daily watch, worth paying the extra? I know that there are other changes beyond just adding solar PV cells but less sure if they are worth the £50ish difference

I actually did need (I mean want) a new GPS watch.

On the flip side, I’ll actually look at the options now than just going… “ooh bargain” not sure I even looked at the Instinct beyond “**** it, that’ll do”

Same here, my old forerunner stopped charging a few months ago and this seemed just the job. The discount code gets me to 185 which is still decent but I really ought to look around to see if other models would be more suitable. I sense a bit of time scouring DC rainmaker’s comparison tool

Yup, bloody great PSA. Thanks

Evening, apologes if this has been asked many times but google kicks up too many conflicting opinions on various sites and forums, do you prime before airbrushing? and if so, with what?

I’ve used halfords grey plastic primer before brush painting with ok enough results but airbrushing is a new one for me. Thanks for any help or tips!

If you’re not going to bleed it there’s no reason to release the air pressure, I only suggested that so you could cycle the fork easily.

re. the high speed damping, I think that you can only adjust it by playing with the shim stack. external adjustments are medium and LSC. Interesing that Fast say that the medium speed compression controls the fork dive, low speed controls the comfort. I’m not sure if something is lost in translation but I find that that have quite a cross over. Thinking about it I’ve not looked at what the two different dials adjust in the damper? but it shoule be fairly evident. Changing the oil weight will shift all types of damping, but if it moves to the middle of the adjustment thats a win.

First off you don’t need to do the bleed. I didn’t for the first year or so and it still worked great, a proper step up from the old moco. Pre soak the foam bits and some of the oil will overflow as you pop the damper in.
I started bleeding it after a couple of services and it feels great but then a fork usually does after a proper service. If you don’t want too drop the lowers off maybe release all pressure in the air spring and take the cap off or valve core out? I’ve never done it like that though.

As aboveI’ve used them and all fine. I think that they ship stuff from Germany to their UK base and then on to customers, all legit but takes about 5 days/ weekish to arrive

Providing the correct stroke coil is used it will not go coilbound when the shock is bottomed out, as mentioned above this would cause big issues.

Preload is used widely throughout the engineering world in this context and it’s best thought of as the force that you need to overcome before the coil starts compressing. Once this force has been overcome the coil will compress at its usual ‘x’ Newtons per mm spring rate. I.E. (plucking convenient numbers out of the air here):
0 turns of preload shock will move as soon as force is applied. If rate = 10N/mm, 1kg would compress roughly 1mm.
1 turn of preload, say 1mm compression, the first kilogram would not move the shock, 2 kg would move the shock 1mm.

Often people say that adding preload makes your shock less effective, which is sort of true if you add too much. If you only add a little bit then you should (almost) always be past the point where the spring is not moving.

Sprindex looks interesting for a bit more adjustment, I’d love to have a play.

That feedzone portables book is great and has loads of good ideas and tips.

Tortilla wraps are better than sarnies in my opinion as you can fill them with anything, go sloppier and easier to eat than a sarnie and they fit in back pockets more easily.

I’ve also had the same problem so will try soaking the head for a while, thanks for the tip.

On a related note how are you finding them? I love the idea but the cleaner only seems ok-ish and the degreaser appeared to be hopeless. I’m open to it being user error though, do you need to let it soak longer or something?

Got out for a long overdue evening ride on my local trails, even managed to get a last minute riding buddy along and squeezed in a pub stop. Bliss

Also interested in this, most of the suggested shoes are within a few notes of the 5:10s so do they last any longer? Obviously it’s a bit early to tell with the specialized 2FO v2

Replying to the tangent (sorry OP), I recently rang round the usual places and found that dotty rubber re-soles are off the menu due to Adidas. Real shame as I have about three pairs of five tens with nicely broken in uppers and wrecked soles but I’m buggered if I’m going to wreck them with vibram teflon grip.

I wouldn’t worry too much about the difference between the B1 and C1 upgrades. I already had the B1 in my yari which was a vast improvement, changed to a C1 out of curiosity when I last serviced and the difference is fairly small. I sort of go along with the comments you’ll find on mtbr etc. that the C1 is a wee bit harsher on small bumps but has more support, however it’s all within a few psi and a couple of clicks of compression imo.
The step change was upgrading to the B1 in the first place.

molgrips
Full Member
I haven’t seen the first film yet

This deserved more

The main player is wear rather than stretching of the chain links, but its not quite as simple as it seems as the wear occurs at a number of interfaces. This shows it well:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html

I’ve never really thought about it too much, I replace about 70% of my chains when they get noticeably sloppy then the rest when they read 0.75.

@Pieface
That’s ace, thanks for your thoughts on them. Sounds like the Roclite 290 is the one to try and you’re not the first to suggest that route. My main concern was that they’d be too much shoe for my local trails and paths, but if the 290 is a bit more nimble then its worth a pop.
this is getting as bad as the “what tire…” threads!

Bloody great conditions out there today, planned a 6 miler or so but it was so good that we kept adding bits on and ended up at 11. Love it.
The dry and tacky going reminded me that I’m in need of some regular trail shoes once my x-talons get put back in the cupboard for the summer. Does anyone have thoughts on inov8 trailtalon 290 vs roclite 235? Or any variation of the above. Trailtalons would be my gut feel for my local mixed paths and woody rocky singletrack + small sections of roads, however (all being well) I have a long race in the brecon beacons in the summer and I’m wondering if the extra protection (ie. Rockplate) in the roclites would be a benefit? Thoughts and or experiences are most welcome

I’ve had no reliability issues with mine after 2 years however it does seem to loosen and slip down loads more than my old garmin one used to, particularly when running. Still, I suppose it gives my neighbours a laugh watching me legging along the road whilst hoiking up my bra

I’m in a similar situation with my bro so watching this with intrest. We’ve gone down a slightly different route and been playing RTS games either on the same side or vs each other, absolutely loving Company of Heroes.
We’ve dabbled in a few shooters but found that most ones with coop are deathmatch style rather than playing through a storyline. There must be some out there though! Counterstrike Global Offensive is free and you can set a game up with just you and bots.
As a curveball Raft is a nice casual time sink, a world to live in whilst chatting rubbish.

Nice one, thanks for the reply. The bike is a Trek Marlin with a Bontrager Arvada saddle and people aren’t exactly singing it’s (the saddle’s) praises online. I’m maybe swaying towards finding him a more widely loved perch, Charge spoon or the like could be spot on

Nice one thanks for the tips and information, I feel a bit less stupid now! I’ll get back in contact with him about getting the PayPal address changed, that should flush him out if it is a scam. Cheers all

Oh.
My.
Word.

Haven’t felt like that for ages, it truly is autumn now.
Ace fun though! Loved it. Shame about the laptop Robbo

Thabks for taking the time for this @robbo1234biking . I’m not sure why the PM didn’t come through, though i did have pretty ropey signal when I sent it. Anyhow my deets:

68kg
285w FTP

Cheers!

I’ll get in on this please!
PM’d you my deets

Coming with all the usual planet x cautions, but this seems like a good price if you want boost and a regular (old) shimano freehub:
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPI29FBW/wtb-i29-29er-on-formula-boost-6-bolt-wheelset

I have the yari up and all I can say by way of comparison is that its significantly better than the original moco damper, however I can give some other chat.
The up kit includes some squishy foam to reduce the oil foaming and air mixing that you get with typical open bath dampers, I imagine it must help.

I used to run 2 tokens into stock yari but the fitting instructions said to remove them all and use the medium speed compression to control the drive. I was a little dubious but thought I’d give it a go so I started with with none dialled on and went for a few rides. In the end I wound up the MSC until it was standing up nicely in a set of brake jabby switchbacks and haven’t touched it since. I haven’t even thought of adding a token as the fork is lurrvely and smooth and doesn’t bottom out harshly, I’m pleased with it.