Ta, all done, thought I had geo turned off.

Thanks for your well thought out and strongly evidenced response.

Retailer has stated they don’t think it’s an issue but have said they will collect and return to Orange for inspection if I like. I’ve also emailed Orange direct for their opinion.

It’s a 2020 Orange crush about 3 weeks old.

If that is the case is it still an issue?

My fork came with bottomless tokens and it says on the RS Website;

Dark red bottomless tokens are compatible with the following Dual Position Air forks: Pike, Lyrik, Yari.

Ta muchly, look at those prices! Ah well what you gonna do.

It’s not a huge problem as the clamp will fit where the bars start to taper but it’d be nice to get the clamp up against the stem so I could get the light centered

Used for anything/everything

Used at all other times

FS – 7.9%
HT – 3.8%

That’s at RRP, both been added to since.

They have a 1k limit if you don’t list the bike separately. If you declare it as a separate item they cover up to a fair bit more than 1k, can’t remember the exact amount.

I had some decent offs when I was younger and have broken collarbones 3 times, wrists twice and my leg. Don’t think I’ve come close to a serious back injury so not sure how I’d feel at that point. After the crashes I’ve had I can’t say I was overly mentally affected, it did take me a while each time to get back up to the sort of speeds I was achieving pre accident.

I have slowed down as I get older but it’s more down to a feeling of responsibility towards my GF and son more than worrying about physical damage itself.

Nowadays I generally ride within myself, which doesn’t always mean slowly and whenever I’m riding blind I go steady until I know the place. I think you should just sit on any insurance payout and leave any decision until you are much further into recovery, no point making rash decisions. If you really love the sport you won’t give it up, you can just engage with it in a less risky way. And the longer you wait to buy the more mooching time you have and the better deal you’ll get.

@ thestabiliser

Spot on, I used to get out two/three times every week, used to enjoy riding no matter where I was. Junior came along and I get out once a week now and every time is amazing. I get the anticipation prepping everything the night before, up early and off, no matter the weather or location it’s always great. Then spend the rest of the week tinkering with the bikes and getting stuff ready for the next one.

OPs mate didn’t breach any of the ‘unwritten rules of biking dos and dont’s’ he breached the almost universally accepted life rule of how not to be a skanky, wee Ned.

Did you see that geezer with the hammer in the Guy Martin film? That = 146.

Not Orange bashing, love the bikes.

It does look wider, when I was pulling my wheel up the hub contacted the inside of the dropouts on both sides. Still this was a 2014 Alpine, your pics may well be normal for a 29er 5. Contact Orange with the pics.

I remember my Alpine and the hub fitted perfectly into the little cut outs that help you to position it. There was no gap.

It’s probably got something to do with Orange’s tooling resources and a result of a ‘unique’ solution to changing standards. Ultimately its142 so just treat it as such.

This seems to be the same as the 2014 Alpine I used to have. I noticed when I bought it the website said;

Swing Arm Maxle 135x12mm, 142mm Hub Spacing

I just assumed it would operate as a normal 142×12 and it seemed to.

As above, I’ve found overly aggressive washing and over/under tightening to be the biggest causes of creaks. I only clean the drivetrain after every couple of rides and everything else gets cleaned with a damp cloth every 2 to 5 rides depending on conditions.

The bike gets stripped down every 2-3 months and I grease everything as it goes back on.

You can get inserts which allow for this. My Cannondale has a BB30 with an insert that allows for Hollowtech II threaded BBs.

Yup warranty job. Mine was replaced by bike discount. Send it back to Rose, it’s a well known problem.

@^

That’s a bit pedantic. Anyhoo an auction is a competition and we generally refer to those who triumph in competition as winners, so yup he could say he won.

I recently sold one of these to upgrade to a 27″ panel;

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/computing/monitors-and-projectors/pc-monitors/philips-234e5qhaw-full-hd-23-ips-led-monitor-with-mhl-21853517-pdt.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwz6KtBRDwgq-LsKjMk9kBEiQAuaxWUvlMC3CNjVLsr4RkvYHz6J-fpzP28k7_poQTHAya7G8aAmlb8P8HAQ&srcid=198&cmpid=ppc~gg~~~Exact&mctag=gg_goog_7904&s_kwcid=AL!3391!3!48502131379!!!g!81083647579!&ef_id=UkyYkAAAAXCABRq0:20150717074126:s

I did my research at the time and it seemed to be one of the better 23″ IPS panels in this price range. You could probably pick it up cheaper on Amazon/EBay.

A well configured TN panel comes closer to IPS than they used to but for brightness, colour accuracy, good blacks etc IPS is still the way to go especially if any sort of image editing is being done. I’ve got an AOC 144hz TN (one of their high end gaming panels) sat next to my IPS and the IPS pic quality is still noticeably better (was the same when I still had the Phillips panel).

It should also be fairly obvious if there is crash damage on other parts of the frame, you’d expect a fair bit of marking especially around the fault, if there isn’t any the shop really don’t have much of an argument to make. As said above stay calm, take bike to shop, quote SOGA at them and don’t accept any fob off. Depending on how long he’s owned the bike he will likely have to give ‘reasonable’ time for repair/replace (replace in this case). If the wait time becomes ‘unreasonable’ then refunds come into the equation (these can be reduced from full retail depending on amount of use before fault).

It’s very simple to shorten. Just set up the post the way you want, adjust return barrel to slowest setting, remove the remote from the cable and route it, attach remote where you want it then measure the cable and mark where to cut, remove remote from bar. Get a good sharp craft knife and cut the hose, screw the remote back on and attach to bar again.

That was how I did the non stealth version but i imagine it’s the same. There are s couple of excellent vids on youtube taking you through it.

You will loose a little oil when you cut, probably/hopefully from the bit of cable you will discard. When you initially remove the remote just be careful with the cable keep its movements to a minimum and stick a bit of blue tack over the end to stop oil coming out while you route/measure etc. also don’t press the remote button at any point during the process.

I lost a wee bit of oil during the cut but didn’t need to bleed once it was all back together

Last thing the SRAM video online shows a barb inside the cable itself that you have to cut out at the start of the process. Other vids didn’t have this and my reverb didn’t have it either the remote just screwed straight into the cabke, I just assumed this was for older models, worth checking the cable once you’ve removed the remote though just to make sure.

Ta muchly all, will get it sorted this evening.

My son is now 19 months. My riding went from 3 or 4 days a week to one and has remained at that. For most of the time I was going early Sunday mornings, up at 5 back by 10. Things are getting a bit easier now and I’ve recently snuck in a couple of all day Peaks visits. I just take junior away from his mum for a day to give her a rest and make up for it.

The older they get and the more you can do with them the easier it gets. But everything cycling will take a back seat for years to come 🙂

Get junior a decent balance bike around a year and a half, my plan is to get him on a bike and out for rides with me ASAP, that’ll increase saddle time 🙂

I’ve got the 10l fr team lite. Perfect for a days riding, got all the tools you’d need, sarnies, energy gels, snickers, bananas, first aid kit, 2 litre hydration pack, 2 tubes, can fit the waterproofs on the back if needed. Keys, wallet, phone, spare gloves, buff, wooly hat. Sure I’m missing a thing or two, but can’t imagine what more you’d need for a day.

All the roadies I know carry about 4% body fat max and have calves like a bag o spuds. The people I MTB with are fit but not as fit but they are just as dedicated, it’s just a different scene, with different expectations. MTBing for me is the whole experience, the day, scenery, weather, banter food etc. If you’re touring on the roads it’s like this but the Lycra mob ain’t like this. Suppose it’s the same for the Lycra XC folks. But with MTB Lycra isnt as prominent and with roadies it dominates.

When I was last due an eye test I went for the 2 for one from spec savers. Took a pair of wrap around standard sunglasses as my 2nd pair, got my lenses fitted, jobs done. I have owned prescription sports glasses in the past and they are horrendously expensive. The pair I’ve got look the part, not branded and were free! Cheap to replace if/when they get trashed.

They fit well and I bought some anti mist spray which I apply after a clean, they work as well as my last pair which cost about £190 and got mashed when the side of my face hit a tree.

After having loads of these over the years the honest answer is, it could be almost anything. When I get one I can’t pinpoint I always schedule a full strip down, clean, check and regrease. That usually either pinpoints the problem or (more likely) resolves it without you ever finding out what it was.

+1 Troy Lee

Best lightweight pads I’ve used for comfort, fit, quality and protection. As said the lighter you go the more you will trade protection but these are perfect for trail centre, XC, pootling etc.

Old favourite for me M&S, paying about £4 more per month to add a 2k bike.

Evoc FR team lite,10l. That’s my all day pack can’t see why anyone would need more than 10l for an all day job. Get 2litre bladder in there, spare gloves, buff, tools, tape, cable ties, pump, repair kit, first aid kit, hat, energy gel, snickers, bananas, sarnie,2 spare tubes. Can get waterproofs in and attached to it if needed. Previously had various no name cheapos and camelbaks, last one was a mule and one before blow fish.

For visits to trail centres I’ve just got a couple of cheapo £10 hydration jobbies from Tesco and Amazon.

Got a Slide 9HD, loving it so far. Good geo, great climber feels nimble. Top spec for the cash. Only had one problem so far, the drive side bearings on the BB got all grimy after only 2 rides. Contacted Bike discount and they mailed out a new BB and said they’d cover installation costs up to 20 Euros.

My previous all mountain bikes have been a Nerve AM, Five and Alpine and Spesh Enduro. The Slide beats them all and in terms of how the bike rides only my Spesh comes close, but the kit on the Slide edges it clear of anything else I’ve ridden.

I’m up to about 300 miles on mine now and it’s handled trail centre, bike park, Peak District and general all day pootling very well.

I did get a chance to ride a Slide and swoop last year while in Germany, and the bikes get a lot more coverage over there, there’s little mention of em in the UK press.

you see this argument a lot. You see lots of beginners actually pulling with their arms only, bending their arms and actually using just the arms to try and get the front end up, this ain’t right and will lead to instability. It’s the transfer of weight of the whole body from the initial front end pump to straight arms and pushing through with the feet. I would say the majority of the work is done with the push through from the legs, your shift of body weight backwards will be transferred through to the bars with straight arms.

You are pulling but it actually doesn’t feel like a pull to me, I’m just moving my weight back and pushing feet forward, the straight arms will have a pulling impact as the body goes back but overall it feels much more like a pushing motion with the feet.

I’m not much at manualing, can keep the front end up for a short while, long enough to clear stuff on the trail. Most of the effort is in my legs, compress front end, weight transfer back and push through with your legs. Not much pulling or you tend to tip to one side or t’other.

Jumping, again I’m no master but as has been said I just compress with legs into the lip, the bike comes up nice and smooth with almost no effort. When timing is spot on its very effortless.

I’ve seen plenty of folks on CX bikes on the Dog and Monkey.

Cannock is my local trail centre, you read loads of people slagging it but it’s one of my fav places to ride. Best English trail centre IMO. It’ll never compete with the Welsh and Scottish centres but they do a good job with the geography they have at Cannock. As the place is so rocky and stoney it dries fairly quickly too.

Best specialist I’ve used is ETA. But still expensive and too much small print. Just last month I did what I’ve seen suggested on here loads………….changed contents insurance to M&S and stuck me bike on there.

Chepeast ive seen are cycle guard (that I’d trust). You can go cheaper Bicy/ProtBubble but I wouldn’t touch either of these, particularly Bicy, I’ve had dealings, stay away.