A2Z make a disk brake adapter that bolts to the V brake mount and drop outs, although it only fits flat drop outs i think.

only ever been to the Les Arcs with Trial Addiction. Thought it was amazing.

Loads of singletrack with a day around the dh track and trails.

perfect as it is.

may take a few goes to get used to it maybe, but then you may get faster and more accurate.

could you use some sort of colour code to ease the reference points and improve clarity?

Was hoping it was going to be good. lol warpcow.

Hecklers are ace bikes. I am just pleased such simple and effective designs are still so well received.

With regards to the Pinkbike consumer hype that apparently is occuring over larger wheels, it would appear the opposite is also occuring with the gravity ones. People who’ve invested in high end dh / fr bikes, probably after much saving, only to feel that the industry now is maybe moving towards regarding their bikes as obsolete in this area.

edit…

I have no problem with 29ers as I can see the benefits for some types of riding. I can understand that some may want an in between size.( whether this is marketing led, or an evolution). If people like them then fair enough.

Interesting that not so long ago Spesh designed, produced and sold ( in large volumes ) a downhill bike with a 24 inch rear wheel.That’s two inches smaller than normal. Only issue seemed to be less of a tyre choice.

I just hope 26 inch stuff doesn’t become obsolete.

fair point, if it’s just a simple issue, except he’d need to get the required tools, and maybe put marks on the torx bolts. But then again having the tools is good anyway.

Like you say there’s postage too..

i should add that i have haven’t used rosebikes yet – so it’s only my opinion, or what i’d do.

shouldn’t do that from new, uless they’ve been rebled at some point and are faulty, or the seal has not seated correctly. I suppose needing a rebleed is one thing. Leakages from new would concern me tbh, unless it’s simple. I’d get in contact with them first before they become used goods. They should replace them, as long as you do not start trying to fix them.

call the dvla??

Probably not worth getting for that sort of price.

at cwmcarn dh on a ht dual ply tyres and dh tubes about 15 to 20 psi iirc.

brilliant. Just in case your in any doubt, I would say he likes it!!

used to do all my shopping by bike at uni, just using a huge rucksack.
Still get local stuff and food, go into town and do errands by bike.Much less faff than parking, traffic and walking miles.

my camo shorts order was cancelled – guy had a look out the back and came back with a pair of XL ones for £3.00. Got the jacket too, which is really nice. Shorts are nice and baggy ( well big)in that size which is fine by me and have decent length. I’m happy.

Thanks L Ache for finding the jackets.

There’s also bargain ROYAL SIGNATURE gloves on the site for £8 in various sizes. Saw them last night.

keep it as it is, maybe sourcing some parts as they turn up, maybe in the classifieds. I think part of the charm of useble retro bikes ( as opposed to ( mint restored used ones )is the fact they have a character and an assortment of odd bits, that just work well.If they don’t work well maybe replace bits.

Jedi, consider these . They are an ok weight, roll amazingly offroad and on hardpack, clear mud, grip well in the summer and I feel as confident on the downhill sections as with High Rollers. They’re tough too and wear really well. Only downside is they have a raised knobbles around the edge and I’ve found the leaning the bike right over on wet concrete can cause them to get loose.

halo

No chance of a hose at all. Thanks think I’ve solved it now.

yeah could do thanks. Gonna be using a product though I think it needs to have cold water run through without pressure. Also at this stage not sure if it’s just the rad or the whole system that I use the product in.
Just looking into things at the moment and trying to generate some ideas.

Thanks though worth considering.

also look at the seattube angle. Mine is about 21 inches, and is a short equivalent I guess, however if used for any other type of riding with the seat higher it soon becomes quite a bit longer. Mine is fine with the seat slammed or slightly higher for me, as it was for the my friend who’s 1 foot taller than me, for xc rides, with the seat raised some.

stumpy trek, search >saddle >price low to high.

There’s a childs saddle for 80 pence too.

just to add..

also try unbolting the caliper ( on deores )and tapping this as well as moving it to around at various different angles at the same time.

oops.. new pads, clean rotors with proper cleaner or meths then sandpaper / then more meths/ cleaner and clean calipers. Clean both sides of the rotor.

It’s still worth opening up the top covers if and tapping hoses etc anyway. Just bed in as normal, sharp braking with a little speed.

If the lever doesn’t feel right or feels spongey, or pulls back to the bars then there’s air in the system. Might be worth ( with the brakes assembled . attached as normal ) opening the covers at the brake levers , tie wrapping or using a lace or something to keep the levers pulled in, and tapping the hoses. Leqve the levers like this for some time. Then retop up at the lever if required. Some air bubbles may rise throught the system. You can also carefully tap the caliper a bit with the handle of a screwdriver. ( providing you do not spill the fuild )

For the deores I’d try cleaning the pads and rotors with some sandpaper. Soaking the pads in meths for 30 minutes, ( if contamination is suspected ) and then ( carefully !!) setting them alight somewhere safe ie on concrete – making sure you do not have any meths etc on your hands ). Then clean rotors with cleaner / meths. Rebed pads in as described above.

Check the calipers beforehand for any signs of fluid. If you suspect they maybe leaking as mentioned above I’d be tempted as a last ditch attempt to clean them up and apply something like silicon sealant to the joins, maybe braking hard a few times before the sealant has fully set.

I’d only do the second part if their was evidence of leaking though and you were considering binning them.

Also you could try adding a bit of brake fluid on the piston shafts and moving them in and out a bit as they could be dry if not used for a while.

May be worth trying new pads too.

I’ve got some of the very low end deores. I found my pads didn’t want to bed in at all, squealed and didn’t stop me despite a number of hard braking efforts.

Found a different than usual way to bed them in – and have brilliant power now.

However the front bedded in eventually just by braking normally on a hill, although it still wasn’t as good as the rear ( which it’d used the new method on) This method worked for me and they are now both brilliant.

Find a hill. Drag brake for say 20 seconds or so and then do a few on and off’s maybe at the bottom.
Push back up hill, dragging brake.
Descent again and keep braking on and off hard.

Then just use your judgement as weather to drag a bit more ( i had to do it for about 4 runs up and down ) or just pump the lever.

So in essence, drag the brake a fair amount at first ( to get really hot), pump the level lots, drag brake a bit more.

The other thing i did was to use some fine sandpaper beforehand on the rotors and clean the rotors up with cleaner( as i’d used these with other brakes)

The idea is the get the pads and rotor hot, and then apply sharp braking. After about 10 runs of a hill mine bed in brillianty and the squealing stopped completely (although it was present though the bedding in process)

I’d expect aftermarket pads to bed in much easier.

fluid present / contaminated pads / rotors?
sticking pistons
wrong spacing on set up, thus pistons not working well

glad you’ve got it sorted.

just fitted the non braided option to some brakes. Excellent value and work well. I’d hazzard a guess that they are much better than standard hoses too. ime uprated hoses are better on full sussers due to the continual rear end sus movement which can cause damage. Also the fittings are generally alot tougher.

the nastiest hairspray ( usually the cheapest ) you can find. Think 1980’s top of the pops haircuts. Just make sure you dont have any cuts on yours hands when you use it. Strings a bit to say the least.

However mine sometimes still move a bit. Going to try combining the tape method too. Tbh I really do think lock on’s a brilliant sometimes.

childrens ( as factor 50 ) water resistant Superdrug own brand.

our little jack russell, scottie type rescue mugruel dog used to headbutt open my closed bedroom door when i was asleep , jump in my bed and then proceed to use this legs to lever as much room in the bed as possible, sometimes I would wake to find myself just about to fall out of bed!! LOL. Miss that dog so much now..he was amazing 🙂

yep. Yellow ball of light whilst out on a ride. a couple fo years ago. Hovering back and forth locally one evening, low down, moving between two points, back and forth quickly then to the left and right a little.

Only saw it as 3 men were at the side of the road gauping and looking into the sky. I stopped to see what they were looking at. Previous sightings had made the front page of the local papers and been featured for a few weeks before hand.

One man just turned to me and said ‘what is it?’. I mentioned the local papers sightings and pictures and we watched it for maybe 5 to 7 minutes. The whole experience was very surreal.

As I said it moved back and forth between two points.I used a map when I got home and recon it was hovering over two large wooded areas, kind of scanning, about a mile a part. Rough calculation suggests 454.5 miles per hour between points.

Anyway it slowly then went into the distance winding and staying low.

tamiya thread. Excellent. Happy memories.

think this is probably my favourite looking early tamiya racing buggy.

wild one[/url]

Had a Kyosho Beetle.Pile of junk – the chassis rails kept bending. The gearbox kept self destructing, had a die cast diff, with was made of cheese, the suspension arms were also die cast and kept snapping. When it cornered the rear rear would lift. I got it second hand and it was all I could afford – it was old. So hardly anyone stocked spares for it!!

Then an Optima Mid. Amazing cars. Then a carbon fibre chassis and belt upgrade for the Optima to transform it into a long wheelbase version. Got a cool body shell for it and sprayed it 3 tone fluo, each colour fading into each other. Used to have a Massive rear wing for it too, which was left clear, so unpainted.

Used run matched cells etc and I think demon 17 doubles, 15 doubles and 13 double motors. Had a basic Novak speed controller too.

Then I had a 2wd RC10 ( some newer version, not the old classic ones – never got on with it to be honest – did not like it at all – stopped racing and sold it )

Used to race weekly on carpet and offroad tracks sometimes too. Got quite good. Really loved it 🙂

i wouldn’t use plastic pedals in Morzine. Your more likely to slip a pedal anyway or crack the pedal body on a rock unless they are maybe expense MTB specific plastic pedals. Just get some welgo V8 copies, or something like that and use shin pads in Morzine if you must, where’s there a good chance of slipping a pedal. If your on a strick budget these maybe be worth using maybe…

shin protectors maybe??

forgot to say that I spotted it whilst looking ahead with a helmet mounted lumicycle light. The road itself has fields either side with no lighting at all. What stuck me as odd was why someone was on that side of the road when the pavement from the previous lit section of road continues as a wide path on the other side to the figure and would have had to have been walked down to get to this point. Also thinking about it , most people would also look back if a bright helmet light was being pointed towards them, on a road with no other lighting.