If you’re quite technical, and can or do run Ethernet, I’d recommend a Unifi setup*. Can provide more tips there if needed. But if you just want WiFi mesh then wait for others to chime in..

Bear in mind it’s hard to get 100s of megabits reliably over WiFi, due to signal strength, shared bandwidth etc. Good mesh systems will backhaul on a separate radio but even then there’s limited spectrum to go around.

*i have 3 UAP-AC-Lite and the controller on an always on system I have, though you can do without one. Good for about 550Mbps in real life, and practically I can get 200+ around my house. Kit that doesn’t move much and desks have wired connections too.

Logitech K380

Plus one for this.

Ok I’ve not read all the stuff in between…but looking at your first post you don’t need hardware, just software KVM e.g. I use Barrier:

https://github.com/debauchee/barrier/

My setup – imac in front of me, one laptop to the left, another to the right. One keyboard and mouse in front of me. When I move the mouse off the right of the imac it moves onto the laptop, similarly the other way. The keyboard types into whichever one the mouse cursor is on.

I also sometimes remote (with windows remote desktop) onto either laptop to use the big screen in front of me if I’m using it any length of time.

If you’re prepared to spend, you want a Unifi UAP in wall:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-IW-UniFi-AP-AC-IW-Access/dp/B01MS4KOM9/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=unify+in+wall&m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&qid=1585938261&refinements=p_6%3AA3P5ROKL5A1OLE&rnid=419151031&s=computers&sr=1-1

About £100.

It replaces the front plate of your ethernet socket (check clearance, it’s bigger) and is an access point. You power it from a POE injector wherever you feed the ethernet from. It’s then got a pair of ethernet sockets on it too if you need them.

They are better with a controller running somewhere but you don’t need one, you can “adopt” it with the ios/android app and set it up that way.

Look at settings, mobile data, scroll aaaalllll the way down and toggle WiFi assist off then test again.

Somewhere in the process it might have decided the AP WiFi is crap and be trying to use mobile data.

How are you testing the speed?

Calls and texts aren’t related to an Apple ID

Not true. Settings, messages “text message forwarding” and same setting for calls.

Oh and vs a Ralph I find they roll as fast but grip much nicer. Especially when it gets damp a Ralph goes to hell much faster.

Ikon is a great front XC bike tyre, goes well with a cross mark out back.

They’re actually ok in the wet, they clear the mud ok so better than you’d think but grading on a curve for sure. Wet but not too muddy it’s ok.

You ask about issue price but that’s irrelevant other than maybe the difference between sale price and issue for tax reasons. Do you mean issued shares, or options?

If it’s issued shares and there are leaver provisions in the paperwork then that will probably also define the valuation? E.g. could be anything from last round value, half round, cost they were acquired at (E.g. clauses to claw back shares from bad leavers) etc etc.

If there‘S nothing in the paperwork forcing sale/buyback, or restricting sale, then the employee can sell as many or few shares as they like for whatever price someone will pay.

I was thinking of a large shower tray (1800mm max) running across the width of the bathroom

I removed a wet room and did this. Then nice nearly-frameless glass door across it. So i’ve got a big shower area, the water all stays inside the tray. I don’t see any advantage to a wet room unless you really need a stepless entry to the showering area (the reason there was one in my house before).

The answer to the OP is it depends on what your insurance co think.

If you list them at S/h price and they get nicked, they might not pay out as you were understating the risk to them – they were more attractive to thieves as they were expensive bikes.

I found this out asking about insuring an old DH bike. It was worth about £600 (cost me about that) but they wanted to know new value (and in this case I eventually ended up with a claim and they paid out nearly new value. Which was unexpected but nice). Their point was a full sus DH bike is more nickable than a new £600 hardtail, you’re not insuring the same risk. That said, I also wasn’t paying the premiums of a brand new full value bike. So they did account for it.

I’ve put ssds in some terrible places (I’m a roboticist) and they tend to fail completely as above, rather than go dodgy. Exception being dodgy cables or cables fitting.

Sounds like ram or failing that a bad data connection. I’d be reseating everything then memtest overnight and a long disk test too.

Some BT hubs will make new machines connecting go to a welcome page you need to click through then you can connect ok. It can be turned off in the hub settings.

Try clicking through or anything, or failing that post a picture / describe the page you see more.

If you’re the interviewer:

Is there anything I’ve not asked you about on your CV or past work that you’d expected me to, or you’d like to talk about?

(sometimes you miss something good, or the candidate hasn’t put something on the CV that turns out to be relevant once they know more about the role).

If you’re the candidate:

Are there any areas you’re thinking I’m weak on, or reasons you’ll be not sure about me as a candidate? I’d like a chance to talk about them now whilst I’m here, so you can make the right decision.

(give them a chance to say “we’re not sure you could do X” and you can convince them, or explain how you know that but you’d be good at the rest of the job and learn X).

Normally:

Item cost + shipping
* Duty (rate depends on item)
* VAT (20%)
+ courier handling fee (normally about £8)

Hmm Chinese carbon is an interesting option – do you have a link to what you have, or where you got it?

I get the attraction of SS cassette hubs, if I need to go boost I’d try find one. If I can stay 135 I’ll keep with my american classics – nice and light and I find them very reliable. I think the big flanges build a nice stiff/strong wheel too, especially on a 29er.

I’ve had SS bikes about 16 years or so now, so I have tried most of the tensioning options (though admittedly not the EBB in a PF30 shell, so I’d consider it).

As above, you get m.2 sata drives and m.2 NVMe drives. Different interfaces and different key types on the slot.

PF30 frames – good idea, but hard to search by BB standard, any recommendations here? Some sort of spanky XC race thing might float my boat.

Boost etc – my preferred SS setup is normal free hub and spacers, I have some very nice wheels on american classics, normal spacing, so ideally I’ll keep using those. That said, if I need to go boost then just means new hub(s). Sadly you can’t get ACs any more, would probably go for some 240s or something.

That’ll be cos flat is the most annoying terrain for SS.

Going downhill you spin out then can cruise, going up hill you crank harder, get up faster – it’s fine. Long flat stretches you either go real slow (and fall behind on group rides) or maintain a punishing high cadence that kills you.

Dropouts are probably the one thing I don’t want to shift on!

The juice looks good.

So far I think the list looks like:
– Soma Juice
– Brother Big Bro
– Pivot Les

If you don’t care about the image it’s a great bike.

For sure, my current frame is a voodoo, but it’s had a lot of use over many years and is getting pretty tired. Already had the bottle bosses come loose three times and next stage will require drilling them out to attempt to replace them which might end in tears, hence looking at options.

, I suspect the Chameleon might actually be quite a fun option

They come in big enough sizes, but it’s not an XC bike really. I’m sure I’d like how it rides well enough but it’s not what I want for my SS. I like something a bit fast and dangerous that feels like it might have me if I’m not paying attention. Doesn’t need to be “capable” for big rough stuff etc, it’s for hacking round the woods.

What you want is s Stooge

Nah, i want spanky fast rather than “capable” and also “one size fits all” will never be right for me – I’m in the 99th percentile for height. From a quick look at the geo chart I’d be on a stem the wrong side of 100mm to make that fit right I reckon, and suspect end up sat somewhere odd with a long enough post.

Slotted dropouts are a PITA.

I agree, I don’t want those!

I get there are some tensioners that are probably ok, but better than a tensioner is no tensioner. Current frame (voodoo Bokor from 8 years ago) has sliders that also move the disk mount, never any bother at all ever. Easy to remove the wheel, takes about 20 seconds to tweak the tension to adjust for chain wear when needed, and 10 of those are flipping the bike.

Stantons are horizontal dropouts not sliders. I think some people are misunderstanding the distinction. I want nuts and tensioning screw not just a slot.

Shand is not a bad shout if I’m feeling spendy. Though once I’m up near custom frame money my problem’s a different one, it’s one of choice isn’t it?

I’d discounted the various PF to EBB type adapters as a bodge, but maybe I should reconsider? Might open up the possibility of something quite light & spanky and properly XC…

Size wise, XL or XXL in most stuff (I’m 6’4” and like bikes that fit. 23” seat tube on my current SS). A large rooster is too small.

I’ve had SS with tensioners in the past, and run bikes with various front rollers/guides. All at some point cause issues, proper sliders never have for me in years. I have horizontal with tugs on the commuter, and that’s more of a faff.

The Brother Big Bro is looking the best option so far. Annoyingly looks like thru axle only but they used to be QR so can maybe get some dropouts. Or I can convert my hubs (some nice american classics).

To address some replies:

– tensioner. Nope. I want a SS not an unreliable bodge. They just don’t work as well as proper dropouts. It’s not a puncture issue either, I should be easy to tension, align brakes correctly without adjustment and never slip.
– modern geo/1x/dropper post. Got one of those thanks. And my SS is 1×1 with a dropper post ;-)
– singular always had the head tube issue, really needs to take a taper steerer to fit most 100mm forks.

I’ll look at some of the options above. Custom is always an option but pretty spendy!

12 years since visual voicemail was introduced, they’ve not done it yet so doubt they’re going to.

Who’s leaving voicemail anyway?!

OSX / MacOS is basically Linux

I mean this could be a trap for pedants, but they say technically correct is the best type of correct so..

… it’s Darwin not Linux kernel based – a BSD derivative.

Oh and if 16gb isn’t enough for work down the line, well it’s work – sell it on buy a new one. Do you think you’ll be worse off than if you’d spend the +400 now and kept it a bit longer before doing the same. Probably about evens… (i.e. compare depreciation cost against up front).

On the RAM – I think 16Gb is generally fine unless you know why you need more. If you have almost any specific reason at all to think you might need more ram, go for it.

On the mac vs pc – I could make the same argument the opposite way round. My argument would be macs are no good because they only make cheap low end ones*… depends what you’re doing with a computer!

*before someone comes back with “mac pro” that’s mid range in the scheme of desktop workstations. Only 1 socket, limited PCIE expansion, only up to 1.5Tb…

I’m not saying I bodge it, I do try, but my wrapping has been described as a “crime against humanity” by one recipient so perhaps needs some work…

We’re considering winter tyres

Depending where you live… drove my 5 in a bit of snow last year. It’s not as good as my old FWD car but it’s not as terrible as you might think. You do have to drive with a bit of care though, and think about where the front and rear wheels are, rather than just the fronts say, if that makes sense? E.g. consider coming out from being parked and crossing a band of snow to the carriageway – you have to think about when the steering wheels have grip and when the driving wheels do separately.

Its isn’t the biggest estate in the world

I realise this is two very specific points but…

For me, I can’t get my bikes flat between the wheel arches on a 3, cos the gap at 92cm is too narrow even with the dropper post down, cos I’m real tall and have big bikes. 5s have considerably wider, and longer boots. I can get our buggy longways in a 5 boot but not in a 3, which makes for a lot more space.

3s seem to drive a lot more “sporty” in general than the 5s, 5s hide their size well, but it’s still a barvarian land yacht. That said, had a loaner m-sport trim 3 the other weekend and compared to my 5 it felt like the suspension had been needlessly ruined to make it feel sporty. But maybe I’m getting old*

*i hope not.

Didn’t cover running costs. Previous owner paid for the 5 yr service plan (one of the last before they stopped offering that) so I’ve not hit servicing costs yet. Main dealer ain’t cheap though, but find a decent independent (had a z4 before) and it was comparable to say main dealer on an old Citroen /ford I’ve had. Occasional things can be big money (air rear sus bag replacement on 5s) but not really that bad relative to car cost.

Biggest unexpected (but predictable) expense is insurance. Triple what the z4 cost, though got it down this year.

2017 is when the new shape G31 came in replacing the F11 (I have a 66 plate f11, one of the last ones). Not a huge amount of differences, easiest way to spot them is integrated screen in dash (f11) vs stick up style (g31).

Petrols seem like hens teeth in the big wagons mind, as are low miles 5 series of that age – most do mega miles. All that said, a year ago I picked up my 66 plate on 15k miles so it can be done. Literally the only one with that few miles we saw though (and a diesel).

As above, you want the auto. Manual 5s exist, but no idea why! Even base spec is real nice, like a higher end 3. Been a great car, so not a mad plan of yours. Only things I’d change about mine would be I’d prefer a petrol (540 as above would be lovely…), electric folding mirrors and memory position seats would be handy. Oh and I recommend one with the smallest wheels they do (17s), no silly low pro tyres. More comfy, less kerb risk.

Look at Goodreader. Designed for PDF but I’ve used it for years (pre-Files) to store/transfer files on ios to/from servers etc.

I drove a GTD, then bought a 190bhp petrol Leon, manual, which was nice. But my local Seat garage were…not good fixing an issue. Basically I ended up threatening court action and they took the car back and refunded all my money after 6 weeks. I now have a 520d touring, and it’s nicer in nearly every way. Also more expensive mind… (but was golf R money, so if you’re looking at those…)

Most will work – the amazon basics USB3 one is well supported in most kernels so i would _expect_ to work but I’ve not actually tried it with an ipad. Cheap and easy to return if it doesn’t work.

Two problems you might encounter – ipad is very picky about how much power it’ll provide, so you may find you need to hook up power as well. Which brings me to the second issue – if you have the older lightning to USB that doesn’t have the lightning input for power, not only do you have power issues but it’s also only USB2 compared to USB3 on the newer one, so you’ll be limited in bandwidth to ~400Mbps.

FF you really do need to try on, as I think shape matters much more as well as size. I find the largest troy lee lids to fit my bonce best, where 661 don’t.