You can ship batteries, but it’s not cheap and you generally need to use a specialist freight company. There’s a bunch of documents you need and there are strict rules on packaging and labelling them. Last time I did it you were limited when you could ship too, and it was theoretically possible a pilot might refuse the load so it’d need to wait.

I can’t remember the exact details, it was for work a few years back. Was similar capacities though, 8 batteries or so at 250Wh each. I do know unless you really have something specialist it was cheaper/more straightforward to just buy in the destination country. I don’t think an e-bike battery would be specialist/expensive enough to tip in favour of shipping.

The wifi cards are normally in the base of the laptop, with wires to antenna in the screen.

I’ll go with one or both of those wires being damaged in the hinge area, or if you’re lucky just pulled out of the card end.

Find the service manual for your laptop and have a look, or post a link here.

presenting in powerpoint while having presenter view etc like a traditional dual screen and couldn’t find any that worked well.

Getting off topic here, but spend £10 on a cheap USB HDMI grabber from ebay/amazon.

Then connect it to video out and USB in to your laptop. Your laptop thinks it has a second screen, but the screen is actually a window on the laptop (use e.g. VLC, windows photo app, OBS, whatever – the grabber appears to the OS Like another camera). Then share this window, which behaves exactly like a connector projector.

Also handy for other stuff, e.g. I present like this but using an iPad to drive the presentation through the display output. It appears as a camera, so you can use it instead of your camera if you’re in something that doesn’t screen share video well, or you can use an app like Airmix Solo (free, iOS) to use your phone camera as a webcam (so you can e.g. point it at some paper/a whiteboard as a document camera to share).

If you want a nice UK made short stem, I’ve put a Unite Co one on a new build and it’s lovely.

https://uniteco.bike/product-category/stems/

Random suggestion – Ikea do tall completely mirror faced wardrobe doors. Shallow wardrobes with mirror doors on the wall in question then you also have some hidden storage?

If it’s niche I’d have thought you need to widen the net not narrow it.

Does she actually want to sell, or just feels she needs to try and sell? Cos it’s going to be hard to sell I imagine if like you say it’s niche, and hardly advertised. Slightly delicate question I guess, but I also understand people not wanting to move out of long term homes whilst feeling they should…

just get a real world improvement in pedalling uphill

You’re doing the wheels, so other than tyres you’re gonna save a max of about 1 or 2kg(unlikely) of static weight if you throw money at it, which won’t make a real world difference to how fast you climb, sorry.

Faster tyres will.

Post the spec – but scienceofficer speaks the truth.

Fast tyres will make the biggest difference if you want it to go faster, but you’ll probably compromise something (you might not mind though, and it’s a cheap reversible change). What’s your usual riding?

If you just want to bulk pre-pay data rather than a contract, have a look at: https://shkspr.mobi/blog/2021/08/best-bulk-data-payg-sims-in-the-uk/

I don’t really know what it’s meant to be like

Buttery smooth, it’s a merc. I’d expect it to be like my 5 series, you don’t notice it shift unless you really pay attention.

Silly question – locked out?

It looks very like my BLE in that area – probably same parts.

Which seems to work well, in that there’s good clearance for big tyres etc.

Edit: can’t be exactly the same parts if it’s stainless but you know what I mean…

I’ve a steel full sus as I wanted something unusual due to my height and fondness for singlespeeds. And there aren’t many custom full sus options out there, let alone SS. Plus I got to support a local builder, which is nice.

It also rides lovely, which the material will be a factor in.

Pretty poor for what has always been regarded as one of the best companies for support old products.

I got put off Hope for this reason a while back when they went through a phase of discontinuing headset models and not selling replacement bearings etc.

Yes, as cougar says there’s negotiation before current delivery with usb-c PD. Which includes selecting voltage which can be 5,9,15 or 20v (at a variety of amperages). Add in 12v for some android stuff too…

You can get usb c current/voltage monitors pretty cheap on eBay or Amazon. Maybe try one of them for the first step?

5 series touring (estates) do it.

10 minutes?

Whatever trousers you want, they’ll be fine. Don’t cane it, and roll the bottom of the legs up to stop them getting caught and getting splashed (do both legs).

(source: nearly a decade of riding 15 mins or so each way in work smart trousers, wool blend or otherwise)

and relocated, new sensor to shut the alarm going off throughout the night upsetting the neighborhood

Was gonna mention that one too. If you lock it, then again in 10s to put it in ferry/towing mode it disables the problematic sensor and it won’t go off in the night as the car cools.

I’m 6’4” and I’d want something longer than the XL, by quite a bit. I could ride an XL tho.

L looks small on the numbers.

Wonder if the mech hanger is misaligned

You said you checked it with the tool – how could it be misaligned?

Did you check in both axes?

there’s not much else to go wrong with these

Checked the roof motor drains? And rear springs (if they’ve not been done already). The less said about the abs computer the better but not a lot you can do about that.

Also pro tip – keep the door latches well greased. Spray stuff works nicely. Otherwise they get a touch sticky and cause central locking oddness and then you can’t get the filler open (emergency release in boot tho).

BLE is gorgeous! How does it ride with air shock? I was reading Starling site yesterday- lots of talk about how cool better for their design.

The BLE is quite different suspension to the others. A coil would be no good.

Concentric BB pivot so you run very little sag, think “hardtail with a little give”, but when you hit something harder and it starts to move the rate is regressive so it moves more.

They probably write it better themselves https://www.starlingcycles.com/bikes/beady-little-eye/

Doesn’t even look like the enormous gate it is. Longer than most XL enduro bikes, but just right for me. Nice to finally have a bike that’s a proper size for my height so I can run a nice short stem.

Right let’s see if this works:

BLE by the accidental martini[/url], on Flickr

If anyone has got an old XL frame with horizontal dropouts gathering dust at home, i’d be very keen to take it off your hands for cold hard cash!

@callmebryce do you need horizontal or will sliders do? I’ve just retired my old voodoo Bokor in XL (I’m 6’4”) that I ran SS for 9 years. Sliders so the brake mount moves with the wheel, which is nice. Best SS dropouts I’ve ever used. In Bristol if it’s any use, only thing wrong with it is tatty paint and the downtube bottle bosses are a bit loose and I’ve already had to nip the rivnuts up once and don’t think they’d go again.

Replaced with something rather special I’ll post a pic of if I can host somewhere, tho meantime have an Instagram link

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRt8tSIBvDj/?utm_medium=copy_link

but cant fix on one bolt

I used to have that issue if I reused crush washers, fresh ones made it much much easier.

Topeak ninja pouch, comes in two sizes.

Yeah IME they’ll shift on forecourt price, but not the online price (which is probably lower).

They know everyone can search online now and will/can travel, if they’re not priced market rate people won’t even come look at the car. Flip side of this, is the price is driven by the stuff they can show online, so you might get a good deal if it’s better than the online overview might suggest in subtle ways (good service history, condition underneath as above etc).

ESI extra chunky is what you want.

https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/esi-extra-chunky-grips-3565-p.asp

34mm but slightly asymmetric so make sure you get them on right. Comfiest grips I’ve used and help a lot when my previously broken hand aches.

Or they do bar tape too if you want to go down that route.

EDIT: misread OP but leaving the above in case it helps. Don’t thing ESI will go over the revgrips but their bar tape would

It was also the first “small” van that came to min when you said Partner/Connect size.

The e-Partner/berlingo is nearly out, specs up on the citroen site etc…

Eufy one here.

– No wifi, so works anywhere, when travelling etc.
– Handy to check in on them, you can use as audio only if you want.
– camera end and parent end power/charge from standard micro-usb. So you generally can scare up an adapter if you forget/misplace one, or want them in several places. Or want to power off a USB batter pack etc.

Plusnet/BT routers are tripe.

Only 2? I got through 5 in a year before getting a third party one that’s been totally fine.

Are they reasonably tough? I need to get window covering on our roomster and it may have bikes leant against it so interested in their robustness.

Not sure they’d take that. The issue is less how tough they are and more snagging. They’re like a mesh material, and I think bars etc would catch and tear it.

If carshades.co.uk do them for your model they’re good.

Got a set for my car (not a new Berlingo though), as well as factory tint on the windows and it really helps.

I have a composite design with which I am happy,

Ah, is it a scan to print a mould to form composites? That’s a nice idea.

Though maybe there’s something you could use to just take a mould of the structure directly then use that? Or just wrap the structure directly and bond to it.

Well at the moment nothing, between roles – I was CTO of a subsea robotics technology company doing real-time 3D from vision (rather than post processed like photogrammetry, but there’s a lot in common and sometimes you want to do both).

Reverse engineering not really my thing – more of a downstream use case for the data so no recommendations there.

Also, Epic games bought Reality Capture so I’m really hoping they’re going to push something out to the hobbyist end of the market

Maybe, but this is really a play to support Nanite in UE5 and production workflows for content. That said, UE has always been cheap/free for hobbyist use to maybe RC will become more accessible. Metashape still the one to beat IMO though.

Yeah, I’m aware of some of the guis etc, tho less relevant for me. I’m into 3D professionally not as a hobby, so I’m either writing my own stuff or using pro stuff.

Also, what are you printing in that will be strong enough to take BB loads?!

If you’re doing titanium or something I can see it, but if you’ve got that money what are you doing bodying a patriot…

Anyways, if you have time and can learn, photogrammetry could do it cost free. Read up, practice with e.g. MVE for free then do final thing with free trial of metashape pro. You’ll need access to a decent PC, tho I think you’d get away with 16/32gb ram for something this small.

If you want an easy way to try it, I have a talk I have a few years back where I provided scripts to go from folder of images to model with MVE.

https://iainwallace.co.uk/2018/04/01/bristech-talk-april-2018/

I don’t cover scaling there though.

TBH your best bet is to just measure and model it.

You could do a decent job with photogrammetry but it really requires expert knowledge to get the precision you’d need to make parts mate well. That said, if your design clamps up/has some adjustment in it might be ok.

If you go a visual route, you want to matt out the finish somehow, make sure there are good features to capture. You can do this by dusting flour on it quite effectively.

Laser methods probably better for this application but unless you know someone with the kit it’s not gonna be cost effective.