They should do it like a lot of DH axles:

One end has a hole drilled thru the cross section, so you can slide any old allen key into it to hold it steady, then the other end can be an allen bolt.

A 9mm wouldn’t even need to be QR. They could just make a nutted (at one end) thru axle in alu like you get at the back end of DH bikes. Nice and light and would do the job.

Normally the dip beam’s a separate element in the same bulb. Take the bulb out and have a real close look.

In my car (mondeo) it’s always one goes with out the other, so either dip or full will be fine, the other’s not.

I asked hope. They don’t make them, but said they’d consider it if there’s enough demand.

So send them an email, let them know the demand is out there.

You’d need a lathe to drill them out properly, if it’s not perfectly concentric you’ll get disc wear issues.

Also, there’s not much (5mm each side) left to support the wheel on the skewer, so with bigger discs at least you end up with some wear on the skewer (from pics I’ve seen). If/when I get around to making some, I’d also turn some spacers on a lathe to spread the load better.

Go to an uplift day or two first, get the hang of the DHing then enter a race. From notts you’ll have to travel a bit – one of the pearce cycles events might not be too far?

Or you could head north to hamsterley.

This aint the first set of durins i’ve heard this happened to.

Seen the crazy low torque spec on the post mounts?

Why not use toeclips?

Just flats will be “interesting”.

Can I add to the Extra love-in with the fact they’re currently being very helpful with a warranty issue on my intense.

Aye is how I ran mine. Which is incidentally still for sale, with the shorter or longer shock option (or both if you prefer).

You can get cups. There are some in mine.

Or use a reducer headset, there are loads about. Just make sure that a) they’re not too deep insertion, and b) you have knob clearance on the downtube for your forks.

Senditnow use parcelforce, so you have a girth + length limit of 3m. Which means a complete bike won’t go.

They *might* take it, but they shouldn’t…

Err no – new bushings is a send-it-off job, and will cost you £.

New uppers is a lot of cash too. Chances are if they’ve started to wear, they’ll get worse.

What’s caused it? Chances are you’ve not serviced them in a while? People seem to think this is just a fox issue, but I’ve seen more worn RS than Fox…

I’d call up TFT, sure they’ll give you good advice and be able to advise you on costs etc…

12mm standard’s common on the rear for DH bikes…

Problem is hope don’t make pro2 adapters for 9mm. They told me they might if there was demand though. But I have a Cunning Plan to machine some QR ones into 9mm ones, and see how that goes.

Though it may be for a lot of folk new lowers aren’t much more expensive, really, when you consider to get the same with dt is £42 skewer + £15 on some seals (cos you’d get them too with new lowers..) that’s you at ~£60. So a bit more to have new lowers (possibly in a better colour than what you have?) not too bad…

Tried different air valve caps? Some are taller/smaller than others. Raid an inner tube!

File down a plastic cap off a tube a bit?

If you leave it off, what about just a wee strip of gaffer tape over the end of the valve then wrapped round itself to keep the crap out?

IIRC the cart can be taken apart, once you have it out it’s a reverse thread though to get it in bits. I might be making that up though, so I’d check :P Memory’s a bit hazy on it (never bothered doing it myself)

Zippy – email me when you’re buying, I might not have sold by then.

I’ve had a few offers for less than what I’m asking, but I’m in no rush to sell, and as the price increases filter through and new kit is more expensive/less deals on older (new) kit, then s/h kit prices will go up. So it’s not like my frame’s going to depreciate sat in a box, so I’m aswell to hold out for what I’m after. So if anyone on this thread is after a prophet frame, get in touch…

There are some sweet XC loops round there, big climbs, big descents etc. If you want to know more let me know..

E.g. here’s some (poor footage):

Got some other stuff on there too…

What about a prophet? I can even sell you a nice one in large cheap ;)

MMA don’t import the advantage UST.

So chances are no shop will have them, unless they don’t get them through the official importer.

You can still see parts of where it went on google:

The “hard” top section.
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=2580184

The easy one:
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=2580187

Some more of it:
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=2580191

Ahh, them were the days. I remember an awful crash into the gorse, and someone on a (cool at the time, full sus!) RTS folding their front wheel in half on the first corner in the race.

Yeah you used to be able to get uplift there and there were 2 tracks (well more like 2 top sections, 1 bottom section). First time I rode a full sus was there, one of the first speshy FSRs, dual crown 100mm judys :-)

Went up a few times, I always thought they stopped it because the uplift system was rubbish. They had to stop the chair to load each pair of bikes on.

You can see roughly where the old track went if you look on the hill. Look to your left going up the chair.

That £130 include the axle too? (sounds a silly question, but I could seem them charging extra).

Tempted for my 08 F100s. Gone from pikes to the QR, and noticing the flex. Though I may just get used to it.

I’ve used a few layers of gaffer in the past, more than a few times. Worked fine.

Nickegg, how much did 15mm lowers cost you?

What front mech did you have on the trance that didn’t fit? The one off the marin fitted the trance fine.

EDIT: hang on, that’s cos it was dual pull.

I don’t know anything about eggs, but the frame looks good with those white cables. Hope it rides good too – after reading reviews I did consider keeping it, but then I really wanted to stick with the full sus. And the trance I have is even bigger than the marin..

FSA OS-150 stems (and the XC-115s for std bars) have a 35mm stack height. That’s 5mm shorter than a thomson or easton, and 15mm shorter than a lot of other stuff.

NIce stems too.

Yeah, it’s a bodgetastic game of headset-lego, though actually works pretty well.

In edinburgh I’m afraid.

The 2mm is what I have, and isn’t ideal. It’s to space out a bearing cap, not for the usual use. I need to create enough of a gap for it not to jam, but little enough I can fit an o-ring to seal it.

Hard to explain, but trust me it wants to be 1mm.

Don’t have much plumbing kit about.

Anyone after a large prophet, get in touch…

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-prophet-frame-large-350

It’s not new, but it’s in great condition, and it is a good 5″ frame http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-prophet-frame-large-350

Mojo. http://www.mojo.co.uk for info, or TFT.

elma, where in the country are you?

I’ve got one from protective that’s great. Think it only comes in fluro green tho if that’s an issue…

I’m 6’4″ and ride an XL, fits perfect. Giants aren’t very long for their size. The sticker on it say 6’1″-6’4″.

This is how much post I run out of it:

So I’d say you’re borderline between the two. Depends how short a bike you like.

Note I have the stem right down, it would be high if I ran the huge conical spacer giant supply.

I’m not up for a swap, but if you want to buy: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-prophet-frame-large-350

Cheers all!

pasta salad

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=B709&daddr=55.619588,-3.018837&hl=en&geocode=FRqLUAMdn1zR_w%3B&mra=mi&mrsp=1,0&sz=15&sll=55.616268,-3.015275&sspn=0.019098,0.032358&ie=UTF8&ll=55.61239,-3.034887&spn=0.038199,0.064716&t=h&z=14

1.8 miles.

Also, the pedal is tiring, when you’re on your 8th or 9th time along the road, on supertacky tyres at 20PSI on a bike with the saddle round your knees. Plus it wears the tyres out.

I’ve ridden a DH bike (proper DH bike mind, nothing I could get the saddle up to a decent pedalling height on) all the way to the top of minch moor round the XC loop. Just cos I can do it, doesn’t mean I want to, especially when racing, wearing armour etc.

Having said that – I’m not one of the folk that moans particularly when I have to ride along the road, but I’d prefer not to.

You can convert them, but you’ll have the same problem. I converted mine the other way.

Why do you think coil would solve the problem that they’re knackered?

You could strip the DA parts out, sell those?