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  • A Spectator’s Guide To Red Bull Rampage
  • hyena
    Free Member

    Update* A big shout out to Silverfish who turned what I thought would be a nightmare experience with Tredz into the most pleasant one I’ve ever had.

    Sent my cranks Tuesday on a next day service, received new cranks from Silverfish Thursday morning. Very please with my overall experience with Silverfish, very prompt responding to emails along with the swiftest of replacements I’ve ever had with a warranty claim.

    Cheers Paddy

    hyena
    Free Member

    Well I doubt I’ll be buying from them again, cheers guys.

    hyena
    Free Member

    Same thing happened to me OP, I ended up having to cut the flange off the nut with a dremel and sanding it down so it all fitted through the hole in the lowers. I was then able clamp on to the damper rod and undo what remained of the bolt. The last few turns were really stiff and there was evidence of swarf when it came out. Ended up chasing the threads with a tap. I replaced the threadlock on the replacement with grease but I’ve not had the lowers off since so cant comment if its any better.

    Good luck

    hyena
    Free Member

    Cheers sam, I may needs some copper bush rods as well

    hyena
    Free Member

    Sam,

    Where did you get new roller bearing from? do you have a link?

    more important did it reduce the rotational play?

    hyena
    Free Member

    http://dualsportdiary.blogspot.dk/2014/06/how-to-replace-pivot-bearings-in-santa.html This guy prefers the blind puller method, and actually doesn’t rate the Santa Cruz tools at all.

    hyena
    Free Member

    I had this last year at Lee Quarry/Cockhill enduro practice. One of the transition stages had very claggy mud which got to the point where you couldn’t turn the wheels. When I washed the bike that night I noticed wear much the same as the picture above. I’ve since stuck some clear frame patches on and its not got any worse.

    Bike was a Bronson also

    hyena
    Free Member

    njee, looking to go down the same route myself. How are you finding the hybrid setup? did you need a long cage mech to handle the sram cassette.

    hyena
    Free Member

    you were right nicksee it is 1.25 thread checked today with a pitch gauge, glad I didn’t just go off my measurements.

    Just out of interest what do people put on the threads if not Loctite, bit of grease to stop thing seizing?

    hyena
    Free Member

    nicksee, I’m only measuring 1mm between threads with callipers but I’m going to double check with a pitch gauge hopefully tomorrow. Have you had any further problem since with your forks? just worried its going to happen again.

    hyena
    Free Member

    Sir HC, the outside of the shaft is ok with no marks, I covered it with some electrical tape first so I wouldn’t scratch it. The only thing wrong with it is the threads at the end are really stiff to thread a bolt on hence needing to chase the threads.

    Had the forks since Feb/March and I’ve had the lowers off a few times before with no problems, once when I first got them to make sure they had some in (I’ve had some fox in the past bone dry before now)and a couple of time since for a lower leg service.

    I’ve never used threadlock on them but from memory they had some white stuff on them already which I assume is some kind of threadlock.

    Just thinking maybe Im missing something from the bottom of the lowers which as allowed it to spin inside.

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)