Yes, not expecting miracles, just whether a bike shop expects a customer to ask for a straight swap out on a stem particularly if its an off the peg jobby.

If it’s just trail centres and no mud I’d go fo Maxxis Ignitor Exceptions.

If you’re going to come across a bit of muddy stuff go for Advantage Exceptions.

The 2.1″ Advantage is fractionally smaller than the 2.35″ Ignitor.

Which one measures up correctly then ? Is the Advantage really big or the Ignitor small ?

Good call I suppose, but they just have very very shallow tread, perhaps I am wrong to judge without trying,

How do the Maxxis advantage size up ? and also how do the Ardents size up ?

Really intrigued myself. Its on my shortlist of new bikes.

I will sell you the grips if you want they will be £2395 per pair :D

Factory wheels are pretty good nowadays and mostly very well built. You could go for the best of both worlds. Easton EA90 SLX’s very light (sub 1400 grms) lovely looking and not machine built. So technically a very quick factory wheelset which are trued and tensioned by hand. Mine have been ace and pretty bombpfoof so far, (although I am only 64 kgs) and the R4 hubs are the smoothest I have ever used.

Blimey, I was hoping for some basic help advice, got to say thanks for a Haynes manual type walk through. Gotta love Mountain bikers for advice. I ride road and come from a roadie background, if i asked such a question on a roadie forum I guess I would have got “Dont you know how to remove the bearings, snigger”

Not sure about the green crocs though :wink:

Yep, I do, they are sized on the small side for sure, particularly the inner shorts. I am 64 kgs and wear either 28’s or 30’s in normal trousers (most 30 in kecks are a bit big for me) I wear medium Hummvees and they are snug !!
Otherwise they are pretty good, loads of pockets and reasonably well made. I’d reccommend them

Sorry to join the bandwagon. But I was going to ask a similar question.
You mention the conical covers, how do they come out, are they threaded or just press fit.
Also if you develop play in the stout hub bearings, is there anyway to take up the play, like in a cup and cone system, or are they on a fixed setting ?

Go with TF Tuned, cant remember when I had better or more reliable service. Stendec is based near me in North Wales and whilst I am sure the work is good the time scales and communication is very hit and miss, I just sent my shock to TF, and every aspect of the work from receiving the delivery to the work log was documented and return delivery was bang on time. 3 days from dispatch to receiving back. I even had a chat with the guy who did the work to talk it through. Cant recommend tham more highly