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  • UCI Confirms 2025 MTB World Series Changes
  • huckersneck
    Free Member

    @mert, I mis-typed “all if the liner…”

    No progress but I’ll try to remember to update when there is. I really do appreciate the help of all those giving the ideas above.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Many thanks all for the thoughts on how this might be approached. Application of heat and the pressing up the nut is an interesting idea, as is rotating it to slide out of the slots. All of the liner will debond, naturally. Sadly the second set of threaded holes in the cleat nut are no good; far too corroded to bother with, as might be expected with this age and use.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    My understanding with the cheap digital verniers munching batteries is that they have significant power consumption when off. Removing the battery from my cheap set after each use and the battery is still seemingly fine a number of years later. there might be an AvE video on this.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Does anyone else have any feedback on this? Just found myself int he position to be sholling for 5.5yo @ 21kg & 1.5yo @ 12kg. @muddyjames, what did you go with?

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    All the spacers and 38mm bars on my full sus enduro bike, all the spacers and 60mm bars on the hardtail. As said ^ much better for me as well on steep trails.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    N47

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Well, the filler used on post-topper-nail-holes didn’t change colour with the clear varnish used and looked rubbish. Installer saw them and offered to swap them out before I asked, as his guy had finished the day putting them on and wasn’t supposed to nail through a visual element like this (no surprises there!). New toppers and therefore a small amount of additional varnishing needed.

    Otherwise the plan worked well, with no staining from plaster. The plasterers were sympathetic as well as being swift and efficient with their plaster application (read: they didn’t splash it everywhere!). Left sheeted for painting the space and then any small flecks from doing the stairs themselves washed off no problem.

    I like the varnish. Low colour change, very low odour.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    I’ve become aware of DualSun combined solar leccy and water heating panels. Their own website doesn’t suggest a large deployment in the UK (French company) but does anyone have any knowledge or experience of them? A forum search didn’t return anything to me but I’m bound to have missed something. The marketing fluff seems logical but the reality may be a long way from ideal.

    https://dualsun.com/en/

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Thanks for the feedback all

    Handrail is the wrong term I’m sure. This is a bannister rail? Bannister? The bit joined to the stringer via spindles. I can’t remove and refit it.

    Spooky, tha ks for sharing your experience. I won’t be staining the oak in question so am hoping that I won’t have the colouration issues you did. Could maybe apply the filler with something v. small like a dentist fills a cavity, to avoid the surrounding area forever being a different colour. As I’m working eith solid post toppers there will be ample material to sand back but also the areas in question are quite visible. Swings and roundabouts I guess.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    I suppose I’m quite concerned about plaster, water or adhesive damage to the wood, which will then be visible forever more. A floor varnish I’d have thought quite tough and resistant to pull-off from low-tack tape but also resistant to all of the potential spoilers to the wood.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    @walowiz, via live chat an agent just confirmed with me:

    “Product 2364123 has a transparent back and is 42mm in diameter.”

    Similar but with a different face:

    “Product 2364072 doesn’t have a transparent back but has the same diameter of 42mm”

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Got the wheel yesterday after ordering late Tuesday, following some swiftly-answered emails. I like dealing with Merlin.

    Observations:
    – The spokes are seemingly plain gauge and J-bend, not aero straight-pull as in the spec
    – The rim seems on the small side, in that my tyres were petty baggy when fitted. I needed to use an inner tube to seat the tyre before I could unmount one side to de-tube and then inflate tubeless to re-pop that side. Previous rim was a nice snug hand-fit with the tyre and I could track-pump up tubeless from 0psi
    – The gap in the rim at the join isn’t the best I’ve seen and did leak a significant amount of air and some sealant before it got tubeless ‘fixed’
    – The ratchet is very quiet when freewheeling along, almost imperceptible. V. lightly greased from the factory, as expected.
    – I did not die riding to work today

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    @whatyadoinsucka, thanks for the details. I didn’t realise this had been posted before.

    full Weight: Rear 1125g

    Err, lol. What a chonk. That is excellent. More weight, more gainz…


    @hatter
    , thanks for the note. I’ve read about the thickness being important for the reasons you mention and a small tube of special stuff lasting for eternity, but it’d good to hear this from (I assume) a user and on this site.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    I’m not sure but that would be nice if it were. Where did you find that info? All I managed to Google led me to stuff about Canyon bikes, with DT’s sites listing only GR 1400, 1600 & 1800 gravel wheels.

    EDIT: Found the LN blurb now. Thanks for the pointer. Is the special grease specified actually special?

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Thanks @thebunk, I am thankful for that shot of positivity after work today

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    SPL is only a 2014 thing. Approx 2% of fathers take SPL currently, I believe.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    @TheLittlestHobo
    Ah, yes, I wasn’t asking for help with a plot to deceive the employer! I could have noted this in the OP.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Thanks all

    I think I’m asking about this to see if there is a positive that I’ve not considered, as I’d like to leave my current job and this would be a compatible role, but really I can’t see how entering this process would work out in retention and this is disappointing. I’ve have no idea why an employer looking for a new starter would have me in for a couple of months at most before letting my go until nearly the next tax year!

    Revealing my intentions at interview, offer, or really any when before employment would no doubt stop the process, and revealing on day 1 may lead me to being cast aside immediately or shortly thereafter and with no onward security or, at best(?), being labelled a complete beller by anyone and everyone there.

    Resigning myself to this just being interview practise is probably the thing to do.

    *sigh*

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    @scotroutes
    I think I’m a good candidate for the role.
    SPL is protected, as maternity leave. It is the ability to split what would otherwise only be ML between the mother and a.n.other


    @trail_rat

    That isn’t quite correct but the point still remains valid; I will be outside the pre-qualification period that protects my right to the leave.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    I have Bosch Pro 18v cordless stuff, drill, driver, circ saw, recip. multi tool, etc. I can’t fault the performance, it has all be absolutely fantastic going through 1 and now starting another house renovation with no complaints at all. The oldest batteries are still seemingly healthy 8 years later.

    I wish I’d gone Makita though, only as their garden stuff uses the same batteries as the rest of the tools and I now have a jungle at the ‘new’ place to tame. Bosch garden stuff has different batteries and I don’t understand a non-commercial reason for this. For shame, Bosch!

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    My colleague? Nob

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    I had a lot of fun riding the WC DH track a few years ago. Bought a day pass once there no bother. The ticket office was open quite early. Splash about in the lake afterwards was excellent also. Lac Blanc or La Bresse are ‘on the way’ if you’re driving out and want to break up the journey.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Leave the door open for a bit to introduce some initial heat to the system? Place a candle in there for a bit for the same effect?

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Get a downdraught extractor, that either has a pop up bit or some sort of grilled area that a fan sucks through? Ducting through the floor to the outside.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    why?

    An old house where joists were all relatively irregularly spaced and not always parallel to their neighbours, exactly, mean that a 12.5mm gap all the way around made the whole situation workable. I started trying to be ‘ideal’ with my approach but this soon changed. Undersize, wedge, foam, de-wedge, foam, tape.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    When I was placing Kingspan between joists at a previous house I used spacers to hold the boards, which I undersized by ~25mm on each dimension, before foaming the boards in, removing spacers and then foaming up those little gaps remaining. Joints were all foil taped to span the joists with really wide foil tape of ~75mm.

    The spacers were the below. Totally indispensable to me whilst dong this job!

    spacers

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Get something in 12.9 grade steel?

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    @prettygreenparrot, @freeagent, this is bonkers! ~£40k+ as a fresh graduate? Where are all these jobs?!

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Between Super Trail and Super Gravity there is 1 carcass layer of difference, 3 for the former and 4 for the latter.

    Super Trail

    Super Gravity

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    My Bikehut light seems to have defaulted to a single brightness setting and flashing green battery indicator. Does anyone know why this is or what it is symptomatic of?

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Our ID.3 is, on balance, good. Being able to charge at home makes going to a filling station seem somewhat archaic. We only have a (bought separately) 3 pin adapter and that is fine. Ours has the 150kW motor, with 58kWh battery.

    The interior quality doesn’t seem befitting of a ~£30k car. Most surfaces feel as cheap as the absolutely-the-most-basic 2005 polo the ID.3 replaced. The mid-console tablet screen is flimsy and does not respond like a modern smartphone. The steering wheel controls feel better than the rest though. It seem obvious that the money has been spent on the power/drive-train rather than interior.

    Ride is a bit jiggly. Possibly the springs are quite stiff to cope with the battery weight.

    Range is nothing like advertised and is getting worse as the temperature is now dropping. I think we get ~<180 motorway miles, or about 3 day’s worth of commuting. This is a week’s worth so is OK but our other car does ~650 miles/tank, or 1 fill/month. The convenience of charging at home helps here.

    As has been mentioned the lane keeping assist is quite aggressive. It can be turned off but comes on again after the car is power-cycled.

    The immediate power and quietness of drive makes it a pleasure to move around in though, although it is not a ‘driver’s car’. Light steering with oodles of lock thanks to RWD seems to make for good manoeuvrability. Radar cruise with full stop-start ability is good in heavy traffic, although it does occasionally slam on the brakes for a parked car being driven around.

    Some grumbles above but really we enjoy using it. I’d maybe go for leather upholstery next time, if available, due to toddler stickiness.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Maxxis ReFuse – Way tougher than slick Gravelkings, in my experience. Perfectly capable on the grav too.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    I manage a Sour Service testing laboratory in Manchester, for a consultancy that primarily consults on materials (read corrosion) issues for Oil & Gas industry. I have a MEng Materials Science degree.

    All of the above is super advice.

    Some awareness of the existence of industry standards such as ISO15156, NACE TM0284/TM0177 might be useful but I would not expect any graduate to know any of the detail within, how they’re applied, etc.
    Materials selection and corrosion testing is quite niche, even within the industry. I spend much time speaking with people who know they want some sort of test doing to qualify their material but nothing about what that testing actually is, how it is done, etc.

    jonba’s general interview advice is top.
    They know you’re qualified on paper so want to see who you are, how you carry yourself, and so on. Whether you are someone they could work with.

    As far as my current role goes it is now management, albeit with a large portion of project work at the moment due to business needs, so not that applicable.
    Previously when I was exclusively managing testing projects there was a lot of wearing routine. Most of the interest was in managing resourcing, liaising with clients, etc. The juggling, as it were. The consultancy side of the business always seemed more interesting to me, less routine and more engaging. Try to get some sort of rotation in your role, as grad schemes often have, so you can find out about yourself what you actually like to do.
    Be prepared to work hard to understand what you’re doing and what you need to do.

    Feel free to send me a PM if you wish.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    hopkinsgm, you’re spot on; I’ve RS505 levers & RS785 calipers.
    The calipers are straight-in hoses and them + my frame post mount.
    Thanks for the detail on the hose routing switching sides. I’d forgot to account for the banjo/straight in fitting issue though, so cheers for the reminder.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Pearce offer this service. I sent them some really mullered XT’s once that were properly ovalised when the thread went. They coudn’t do the job but sent the cracks back FoC.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    @ahsat, what is the folding aspect of this AF rack like? I’ll soon have a garage but the floor is a bit rougher than yours I think, so some vertical play when the folding would be needed.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    @pealy I use an exposure Go-Pro adapter screwed in in place of the standard bar mount for mine, with some Loctite on the threads.


    @flatpat
    Some friction compound, such as might be used to stop a dropper post slipping down, worked to stop mine rotating. Also using a different bolt with an allen fitting instead of a plastic finger-tightening head to get a bit more torque worked well.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    Is there an in-tank, sock-like filter before the fuel pump?

    Corrosion caused by previous water-in-tank episode may have caused flakes/particles of rust to develop and accumulate. It may be a gradual process but has now got to the stage that these flakes/particles are causing the engine to fuel starve and stop, due to the pre-pump filter becoming clad in these flakes/particles when drawing fuel. When the engine dies the pump stops and the particles drop again, meaning that the pump can function once more. The process then repeats.

    Think I saw this on an episode of ‘The Skid Factory’, with a tank that had supposedly been cleaned. A replacement tank was the answer.

    huckersneck
    Free Member

    .

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 125 total)