Removing the old bearing

Tap out and in with a couple of appropriately sized sockets? (11sp speed in my case)

Yup and use some washers and a nut and bolt to press the new bearings in.

This size I believe

cant you replace the bearings on the original ones?

Yup, that’s what I did. The replacement bearings have been in for 2 years and I pick off the covers and clean/regrease them annually.

Have Sram Rival and a set of Force Hydo-R brakes. One set is over 4 years old and other than an annual bleed they’ve been maintenance free. If they do start rubbing (which is rare), I just reset the piston by forcing them back into the caliper with the wheel removed, replace the wheel and pump the brake a few times. Then check the rotor is straight.

Pinkbike test on rim widths

come on tom! chase him down !

👍👍👍

I purchased some Endura Pro SL shorts a couple of years ago for a cycling holiday. I bought 4 pears in total in a regular and long length. The design of the silicone leg grippers was different between the leg lengths and the glue used on the leng length failed on both pairs.

Sent back to wiggle and as told I’d washed them incorrectly and they wouldn’t replace them. I pushed back as teh regular length ones which had as much use hadn’t fallen apart and they provided a credit rather than replacements. Not impressed as I’ve had some mtn bike shorts fall apart too.

I’ll not be purchasing any Endura kit again in the future.

I don’t own much Rapha but the stuff I have fits well. I’ve only purchased items at the Archive store at a discounted price. I’m an XS so there are usually some items that fit me. I used to buy sportful kit but they seem to have removed XS from most of the men’s range in recent years so I’ve ended up looking for alternatives and with a pin chest of 33ish inches if I breathe in most brands don’t cater for me.

I’ll never buy Le Col, Pedaled or some of the even more expensive brands at retail price, but I would consider them in if it was on sale. Rapha have also managed to have pieces of kit that don’t stand out amongst the more garish stuff.

I never considered buying Rapha clothing until I visited the Archive store in Shepton Mallet and tried some of it on about 3 years ago and thought that they stuff was way overpriced and the cyclists that wore it were ‘****ts’, but I’ve been impressed with the items I own. Shame the store is closing. The staff have always been welcoming and super helpful.

I’ve become the Rapha ****t I used to laugh at. 😉

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@epicyclo I got the cranks chromed here. Not a cheap process!

@epicyclo. Thought it was a Flying Scot but the frame numbers don’t match up so gave up. Tried Classic rendezvous for identifying and some of the members were really helpful. More pics here of the bike before and after. The only parts I paid someone else to work on were the chroming of the cranks and the frame respray, everything else was done by me including the lug lining.

Renovate a really old one?

Took a tyre off last week that’s had the Finishline sealant in which claims to last the life of the tyre. It’s been in there about 6 months and it was completely dried up! Fortunately I hadn’t paid for it, my LBS gave me a bottle to try out as it was new to them. AVOID!
Was using Stans but have Orange Seal now. Seems to work well!

Concur, Finishline is rubbish. Turned into a blue gel in my tyres and didn’t seal a tiny hole until I added some more sealant. Binned the lot and moved back to Orange Seal Endurance which I’ve been using for years and has sealed numerous holes.

I can’t recall any sections that required a mountain bike. I ran 650×42 tyres with 26/28psi in my tyres. Was lots of fun and I’m planning to do it again with a bivi or tent and spend some more time riding the area. I’d personally wouldn’t choose a different bike other than my gravel bike.

I’d go as light a possible and wouldn’t bother with a full susser. There just isn’t enough truly rough stuff to justify the extra weigh in my opinion.

Did the SDW last Sept on a gravel bike with 650×42 tyres, I thought it was the perfect bike to ride it it on. It was dry but can see how it would be much tougher if the trails were wet.

Uberbike bottom brackets on all my bikes as they are relatively inexpensive. Buy the stainless steel ones as ceramic is just unnecessary in my opinion. I bought spare top hats and GXP adaptors on eBay for a few pounds. Bearings (6805) are readily available and easy to replace. Tools available on eBay to remove and then press in new bearings. I pack the bearings full of grease before fitting and get around 12 months of use before replacing. I ride in all conditions and so expect them to need replacing every year.

38×17 was a good compromise for riding in and around Bristol. I originally ran a 38×19 but it was too low on the roads. I was running 700×35 tyres. I would gear it down for super hilly rides, may try a 18t sprocket when I get my SS rebuilt.

If anyone happens to have a Sram right hand hydralic brake/shifter Force or Rival they don’t need then let me know! Shifter mechanism can be knackered as I won’t be using it.

I’ve been on training camps with my road bike and I’ve enjoyed riding gravel for a week far more. Drivers are more tolerant but I love the dirt more, I’ve ridden the major climbs and yes its fun but gravel riding is just more fun especially when you have some cheeky singletrack thrown in. I did ride up to Cap de Formentor as my friend was feeling a bit knackered its just more fun riding off road if you know where to find it.

Don’t hire a road bike! Leaving to head back to Bristol tomorrow. Lots of amazing gravel roads with some fun singletrack thrown in too. Contact Martin here and he’ll provide some excellent routes.

I’ve been here the past week and its been lots of fun.

I have the SS specific version of this frame. The Alfine version has some extra brazeons but is essentially the same.

How about this?

Video on YouTube

I’ve got one!

Not used for about 4 years and had it on my bike for about 12 months. Bearings are smooth, but one of the plastic top caps is damaged.

If you are interested drop me a DM. Based in Bristol if you want to see it.

£55 posted if you want it.

Here too.

Monday bump. If anyone knows eespark could they ask him to contact me?

Viewranger allows you to view multiple routes on an OS map. I use Android but assume its the same functionality on an iPhone.

Agreed, absolutely rubbish.

Crap, really crap. Wouldn’t seal the smallest holes. Lots of sealant inside the tyre when I checked. Trash, do not buy! Don’t believe the hype.

Back to Orange Seal Endurance which I’ve found works really well. LBS said they’d order me some a few weeks ago so called in today to pick some up. Was informed they didn’t order any because they had better options available. Pointed me towards the Finishline sealant and I had to tell the person in the store how shit it was several times. Oh well even less reasons to use my LBS.

Sounds amazing. I’ll hopefully be there.

More important that the spokes are tight (tensioned to within the limits of the rim) and evenly tensioned than getting it perfectly round.

Ran 700×40 for a couple of years then built some 650b wheels which I run 42mm tyres. They have a bit more air volume and in my opinion offer a bit more grip and cushioning than the 700c wheels I replaced when riding off road. Bit more rolling resistance but not much and stronger wheels which take a hammering on the rocky descents I regularly ride.

If your ride is mostly off road I’d recommend 650b with a larger tyre but if its mixed with less difficult terrain I’d go with the 700c wheels.

This is worth a read as well.

I’ve been running some Ritchey Evomax bars since May/ Not a huge amount of flare, but just enough in my opinion. Better shape when in the drops than the compacts I used previously and a bit more room for my handlebar bag.

Also titusrider all wheels will have some flex. I’ll leave you with the words of the great Jobst Brandt re wheel stiffness and his thoughts on ‘stiffness’

“Stiffness, in its various forms, is a subject often discussed by bicyclists with a regard to components as well as frames. Stiff wheels are often mentioned with approval. However, it should be noted that a bicycle wheel is so rigid that its elasticity is not discernible because the tires, handlebar, stem, frame and saddle have a much greater combined elasticity. Therefore, the differences between well constructed wheels are imperceptible to a rider. The “liveliness” attributed to “stiff” wheels is an acoustic phenomenon caused largely by lightweight tires at high pressure and tight spokes with a high resonant frequency. This mechanical resonance can be heard, and possibly felt in the handlebars, but it is not related to the wheel stiffness.”

Maybe the lack of ‘zip’ from your wheels could be down to another factor and just how are you measuring the lack of performance from your wheels?

Sorry but spoke tension does not affect wheel stiffness unless the spoke is completely slack. Much more likely down to the parts used or design such as a poor bracing angle from the hub to the rim.

Wow. What a finish.

Bought some yesterday. I’m planning to clean out the Orange Seal from my WTB resolutes next week and so how it goes.

I’ll try and download the maps. Thanks for the link alanw2007.