Sounds like courier company are at fault. One up sent it !

It’s the old thing about the buyer having no contract with the courier company whereas the seller does. Buyer cannot resolve this with courier – OneUp potentially could (or send another).

Do OneUp have a UK distributor or do they do it direct from the US? Noting the dates, I wonder if this is stuck in some kind of customs/import hell hole waiting for clearance and/or payment?

Surprised they never replaced raggatip’s with the SL2

Well played sir…

It’s an oldie, but… Rocky Mountain Instinct?
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/wade-simmons-samples-the-rocky-mountain-instinct-video-2013.html

I’ll stick with my Genesis Tour de Fer thanks.

As an aside though, nice to see a few more of these fully kitted bikes becoming available – it’s surprising how much a set of mudguards, pannier racks and dynamo lighting can add. Not to mention how much hassle running the cables to a rear dynamo light can be.

Hammer – Dremel – angle grinder – blowtorch – fists/forehead.

You are Harry Main and I claim my… ;)

I’ll be swapping the group set and the contact points and want to save them any work that’s unnecessary.

Are *you* planning to do the groupset swap, or wanting *them* to assemble with alternative components? If the former, then if they’re selling a complete bike, they generally need to put the thing together to be able to complete a PDI. If the latter, expect to pay going labour rates, and don’t be surprised if you also get charged for any additional sundries, consumables and general bits & bobs

Once upon a time, quite a lot – particularly with stuff like Santa Cruz, you were effectively ordering a bare frame plus one of the build kits offered by the UK importer and that was exactly as it would turn up at the bike shop. Bike shop assembled the whole thing.

In recent times, much less assembly required – fit the bars in the stem, install seatpost, install front wheel, air in tyres, PDI check and jobs a good ‘un.

What does he do, spend all night every night sitting at the window staring at his van?

I’m going to guess probably not, but not impossible he has a CCTV camera aimed at a specific spot outside his house. Though that’s a guess at best, and absolutely no justification for him acting like a dick.

Are they likely to need access through the garage to do the job? Possibly concerned about damage to your pride and joy as they carry tools, materials, ladders, scaffold, etc. through the garage? Possibly also thinking about security if they may be needing to go into or through the garage a few times over the course of the working day?

RS505’s were the non-series 105 level levers I think? Usually come with RS505 calipers attached (which are flat mount), though I can recall seeing them available with RS785 calipers which are post mount, and are a non-series Ultegra level road version of the M785 XT caliper. So probably, yes, assuming your frame and fork are post mount. The hose routing may differ – historically, Shimano MTB calipers have brought the hose to the outboard caliper half, whereas the road calipers generally take the hose to the inboard caliper half. Note also that there may be some hose compatibility issues if switching from a compression fitting to a banjo fitting

@stumpy01
re: Ikea Brekant corner desk – the 110cm refers to the deepest bit at the corner end, and tapers down to 60cm at the narrow end, but it’s a gradual taper from the middle of the curve of the corner – I’m currently sat at one, 2 24″ monitors, laptop, keyboard and mouse at the deeper “corner” end, printer down at the narrow end, still space for mugs, notepads and general desktop clutter etc.

Yes. #prayforelizabeth

Do you mean #sprayforelizabeth ?

Irony…?

“We don’t feel comfortable taking something with nothing in return”? Chinny reckon…

shit or not?

I wouldn’t class myself as a coffee snob but I do like a nice espresso. We have one of those Delonghi Magnifica machines at home that has done a fine job of keeping us caffeinated for the last couple of years. Mostly we drink black so don’t need the milk frothing gubbins, but we’ve had no complaints when it’s been pressed it into action to cater for guests. I can’t believe all of them were just being polite.

In more normal times, I regularly use a similar machine (slightly older model) at work that has coped admirably with an office of 100+. I’m sure not all of my colleagues are espresso drinkers, but the poor machine certainly deals with far more than a domestic grade machine should reasonably be expected to cope with.

Expect to spend a little time getting it set – I would suggest doing this over the course of a week or so, though going through many iterations in a day could be amusing for onlookers…

If you get one of these like wot we has, you can have the triangular pockets of joy or the flat slabs of pleasure, your choice:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/7065684

I know there’s a lot of bad stuff going on in the world, but seriously, what a time to be alive…

Daisy : In the end, our relationship was just like a sandwich toaster. You know, you just forget you’ve got one. And it just sits there on the top of the cupboard collecting a layer of greasy fudge. And even if you do see it you just assume it’s broken, you think if it’s working I’d be using it all the time, but you don’t and it just sits there. Then one day, you get an overwhelming desire for toasted sandwiches, you know? And you get it down and it works, and you can’t believe it, you know? And then you make every kind of toasted sandwich there is, you have toasted sandwich parties. You make Marmite and cheese, chocolate and…

Tim : Pilchards.

Daisy : Banana and…

Bilbo : Acorns.

Daisy : Acorns. And then as quickly as the desire comes, it just goes. And then you put the toaster sandwich maker away. And, you know what?

Tim : What?

Daisy : You don’t miss it.

Bilbo : So what you’re saying is ‘Don’t hide the toasted sandwich maker away, use him regularly and you’ll get the most out of him’.

Tim : No, she’s saying ‘Chuck your boyfriend, have a sandwich’.

Handy wee infographic in this Q&A article from Cycling UK: https://www.cyclinguk.org/article/coronavirus-qa-cycling-guidance

*edit*
I got a pic to work!
*endedit*

Shimano’s groupset lineup for M4100 says to use the RD-M5120 for 1×10:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-m4100.html

I think he’s referring just to the Tyne Tunnels

Indeed, perhaps could have been clearer that I was referring to first vehicular Tyne Tunnel and second vehicular Tyne Tunnel – the oddity being that the first vehicular Tyne Tunnel was opened as bidirectional with a single lane in each direction, and reconfigured to run as unidirectional only after the second vehicular Tyne Tunnel had been completed 40-odd years later. One of the main arguments for constructing the second vehicle tunnel was to be able to operate one tunnel northbound, one tunnel southbound – obviously, the additional capacity is useful, but having all the traffic moving in the same direction in a tunnel makes all sorts of other things a whole lot safer – and makes stuff like incident management and tunnel ventilation a lot more straightforward.

Got thrown by the fact that the tunnel near me was opened in 2011

A3 Hindhead by any chance?

Damn… beaten to mentioning the Tyne Tunnels

Incidentally, pedestrian and cycle tunnels were completed and opened in 1951, quite a few years before the first vehicle tunnel (1967), and 60 years before the second vehicle tunnel was completed (2011).

LBA = Letter Before Action

…same as trucks are 56mph which is 90kph…

Except they’re not – well, not in the UK anyway:
https://www.gov.uk/speed-limits

Hopkinsgm are you referring to the panda or clio about getting your pace in

Clio – I had a 182 Cup. I was just making the point that anyone ruling a Panda out on grounds of fitting bikes in the back should also rule out a Clio 172/182 for the same reason. At least the Panda has height on it’s side – I used to get bikes in the back of a Yeti upright with just the front wheel off. Dunno whether a Panda would fit a bike in upside down (i.e. stood on its’ saddle and bars) with wheels off. Never bothered trying it when I had the Clio, but can’t see it fitting.

Note also that the Clio 182 also suffered from most of the same issues you mentioned about Suzuki Swifts:
– spoilers ruled out a tailgate mounted rack at the rear (admittedly, being a Cup mine had a bigger tailgate spoiler, but then many 182’s were specified with “Cup Kit” spoilers)
– exhaust arrangement ruled exhaust towbar out

you’d just need the leverage ratio graph and plot it out..
Find out the 25% wheel travel point,and work out the shaft compression from there.
But.. i actually can’t be bothered !

Bingo – answered your own question :)

Can you get a bike in the back of a panda 100hp.guess youd need to take both the wheels off.as regards to the clio 182…

…you’ll still need to take both wheels off. I was riding a medium Pace RC405 when I had mine and frankly that was a bit of a squeeze without taking the rear seat base out completely. And bikes haven’t been getting shorter, or wheel sizes any smaller over the intervening 10 years or so. Depending on the nature of the commute, a 182 may not be a great plan anyway. The nimble handling that makes them great fun to chuck around on a track day or on twisty roads with good sight lines, makes then a bit nervous and fidgety for motorway mileage, and the gearing is pretty short too so they’re a bit of a buzz box.

Thanks for the PSA – the USB port on my 810 has started getting a bit erratic, so been looking to change to something newer – have ordered and will see how we get on when it lands. Looks like it’ll do most of what I want a bike computer to do without all the fancy performance metrics that I’ve never used on my 810. I assume elevation/ascent/descent are interpolated from contour lines as no barometric pressure sensor?

Does this help?
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/i-spec.html

For tyre pressures, you could probably do worse than start here:
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/pressureprof
I find it tends to recommend a slightly higher pressure than I prefer, but not by a lot – I’d reckon it’ll get you to within +/- 10%.

For suspension – Rockshox/SRAM Trailhead app should get you a reasonable starting point.

But remember, there isn’t necessarily a single “right” answer – it’s all a bit subjective, and you may find you like the spring a bit firmer or a bit softer, or a bit more (or less) rebound damping… The apps and websites will get you to a safe and sensible setup that should be somewhere in the general ballpark, but don’t be afraid to fiddle with a little more of this, or a little less of that. Just try to remember to only change one thing at a time, and make notes so you can go back if you decide you liked it better the way it was.

Enjoy!

I had one that came on a Genesis Tour de Fer. Liked the amount of light output, liked the beam pattern, wasn’t a massive fan of the pushbutton switch on the back – without checking the lamp, could never be quite certain if it had switched or not, but being dynamo powered I wasn’t overly fussed about turning off when not required. And then it died.

Replaced with a Lyt – the higher lux rated one, the exact combination of letters escapes me. For what the bike gets used for, the lower light output isn’t a major issue – it’s bright enough where I want light, though admittedly doesn’t light up as far ahead.

G/f has an IQ-X on her tourer which seems to be fine for now – we’ll see if hers lasts longer than mine did.

I guess it depends on the hub shell you’re starting from, basically whether you’ve got a boost hub or a not boost hub. I guess the same adapters will convert a QR135 to 142×12, or QR141 to 148×12, but not QR135 to 148×12.

I lay the wheel on its side on the hub end and firmly press the rim, rotate about 1/8th turn and press again until I’ve gone right round, flip it over and do the other side. Don’t be too shy about the pressure and do it maybe half way through tensioning and again at the end.

That’s my preferred method too – Musson mentions it too, though states he prefers the spoke pinch method. He does note”If you use the pushing down technique, then be very careful not to apply so much force that the wheel collapses, this is easily done on lightweight wheels because (spoked) wheels are not designed to handle high forces in this direction”

Don’t know about chipping easily but as others have commented, recent Cotic’s do tend to scuff up pretty easily – which is a real shame given how nice the finishes have been in the last couple of years. That said, my SolarisMax (Dark Metal) was invisiframe-ed from new and still looking decent after 18 months or so. My girlfriend’s SolarisMax (Cosmic Black) wasn’t invisiframed, and got more than it’s fair share of scuffs and scrapes over its’ first few outings. Spent a few hours polishing up with cutting wax which improved matters somewhat before invisiframe-ing so at least it’s not getting worse.

Overall – it seems to be the price you pay for a nice glossy high sheen wet paint finish rather than a duller (but generally tougher/harder wearing) powder coat.

Ben at WeRide is worth a look – https://www.weride.co.uk/

There are ways of doing that much more cheaply.

Much more cheaply than “free”? Have I misunderstood something here?

Just because you’re not being charged directly to upgrade to a new smart meter doesn’t make it free. We’ve all been paying levies on our bills for years that have been paying towards the roll out programme – including the phenomenal amount of wastage arising from SMETS1 meters – whether you’ve had one installed or not. Consider it a benefit you’ve probably already paid for, but not yet received.

@antigee – good to hear you’ve got it sorted. Some hubs the end caps push on, some hubs the end caps thread on to the axle tube. TBH, the penny only dropped when I came to change the end caps to convert from 135QR to 142×12 to swap the wheels onto another bike…

I’ve got some Crosslight HDs (32 spoke version of the v4’s). A while back, the bike they were fitted on developed an annoying creak under pedalling load – checked crank bolts, chainring bolts, bottom bracket, headset, stem, etc… ended up being the rear wheel end caps which thread onto the axle and had rattled a little loose – nipped then up and the creak went away. Worth checking if you haven’t already…

If going Santa Cruz 29er, would a Hightower fit the remit better than a Tallboy?

Buy the house a donner kebab per room, and leave them in place for a week or so. The stale cigarette stench will then be the least of your worries :)

…They embody “Jack of all trades master of none” so much that if schwable made them they’d be called the Jiggly Jack…

Being German, they’d be more likely to call a decent all-rounder that was a “Jack of all trades” something crazy like, er, “Hans Dampf”…

As nice as the Enigma undoubtedly is, for the price of an Enigma frameset you could have a complete Planet X Tempest, and still have a bit of wiggle room for upgrades. Admittedly, the Fulcrum 900’s and Panaracer Comets are a weighty combo, and I’ve improved my Ultegra spec bike by swapping in a set of Crosslight HD’s I already had, that were already running WTB Cross Bosses. Wheels aside though, the specs are generally pretty good.