Just used hugin myself…

I admire how much thought you’ve put into this 🙂
I’d just put the single chainring on the outside of the cranks (if using without a bashguard), or on the inside if with … as it looks best that way!

Aren’t you putting a roughly equal amount of force into each gear (unless you’ve got bad habits like grinding uphill in a too-high gear)

Just got the 15pc off from Wiggle. (2hrs ago got the CRC one)
I love competition in the marketplace…

I’d definitely recommend changing the bars. I have some Nitto bars with a more traditional shape – the ones on that bike have a small s-bend below the lever clamp, which actually moves your hand further away from the levers. I can’t get on with those at all… And I don’t have “small” hands…
There’s a big selection of “compact” road bars that you might like also, which means that the distance down into to the drops isn’t as dramatic…

lol@mogrim 🙂

You almost had me going there for a second…

I have the above for sale if you like – bought it and it didn’t work well on a bike that needed a 30mm clamp 😮
While the .2mm isn’t much, in this case it meant that it wouldn’t tighten properly – as far as I remember…

I’d recommend avoiding Inbreds and such – they’re long in the top tube.
Also, try to keep it quite light – it really does make a difference for iccle people.

Tyre could even be seated badly – let all the air out and unseat the tyre from the rim, and blow it up again…

Google maps is completely web based, and will always be…
I’d suggest trying something OpenStreetMap based, that allows you to download and cache the maps
Check out MapDroyd
http://www.mapdroyd.com/

Could they perhaps be saving money by ordering millions of boxes the same size – all the exact dimensions of royal mail’s “small parcel” limit?
(This doesn’t justify posting two washers in a huge box)

The o-ring that rockshox supply is slightly too small – if you contact TFTuned they can send you a new pack of o-rings, including a non-standard one for the u-turn dial. You can tear them down and replace the lot! Which is a good thing to do occasionally anyway.
LoCo tuning can probably supply the same…

Hairychested – I’ve mail’d ya 🙂

The iPod will probably be formatted with a mac filesystem – unless they specified otherwise. Does it show up in the filesystem at all?

If it’s formatted with a mac filesystem (hfs+?) then your best bet is to ask a mate with a mac nicely (use Senuti) – otherwise you’ll have to buy software to read it (MacOpener?)

That’s my best (mac user) guess 🙂

Any wider and you’ll need a “Wide Load” convoy…

Attention to detail that reminds me a little of American Psycho…

How do you know the MB is dead? Sure it’s not the power or something?

I might be able to help you out with getting the data off, I’ve to do the very same myself…

Ironically, the sponsored ad that appeared on that page for me was for “Laser Eye Treatment”, I might need it after seeing that bike *tries to unsee*

Still, you need something that people won’t nick in London…

Customising?
No this is customising.

I hope that guy has his rear wheel bolted in tightly…

OH NO! Why did you post a picture of that rubbish bike! I’d HATE to have a steel-hub-geared-700ccwheeled-discbraked-commuter-with-drops 🙁

Me! I’m not much of a “regular poster”, I’m a regular time waster…

Also got a Mk1 PA that I love to bits. I think thebikechain has it spot on tho – both good bikes, different price range. You could get a second hand PA either and save yourself even more! (I’ve the mk1 running 130mm revs)

It’s not really a good time to buy a MBP, they’re due to update it soon. The Macbook Air has just been updated though, so that’s a good buy…

From what I’ve seen , it looks quite a bit more difficult than screen replacement! (I’m not great at soldering though)
I only know about it because I’m considering doing the same repair on our old laptop with a cracked DC jack. I’ll probably do the disassembly and reassembly, and get a mate to desolder/solder it for me.

Haha. Trust me, it IS 50quid’s labour. Take the entire thing apart, (everything apart, screen off and everything), desolder the part, and resolder the new one on, reassemble everything, wonder where all these extra parts that don’t fit in go?

There are youtube videos of it done – they’re long and very speeded up…. Watch one carefully and think about whether you really trust yourself to do it all properly 🙂

PS. It’s called a “DC Jack/Socket” if you want to googlize it.

I have never got free sweets with a wiggle order. 🙁
Is it only to UK deliveries they give free sweets?

@bumbly1 Do you still have the old ones? I might be interested in some of the parts …

Both sides of the story? A reasonable explanation? That doesn’t leave much room for us to speculate? How are we going to get another few pages out of this thread now?

Have you got it as low as possible (should clear the outer ring by 1-2mm when shifting)? Have you got it roughly parallel with the centreline of the frame?
Have you seen park tool’s site? parktool.com/repair

You shouldn’t use the big/big combination anyway 😛 OR the small/small for that matter – chain is at too much of an angle.

Interesting that people are saying not to bother riding switch!
I’ve always seen people teaching that technique, but it never felt natural to me…

I use Teflon based lube – in my case Finish Line Dry. (I believe that’s what TFT recommend too).
Drop it all around the wiper seal, cycle up and down a few times, wipe, repeat.

I don’t know if you’re still reading, but what you describe is possible – but it might not have been budgeted for in the original spec.
When you say you want to put in bullet points – do you mean in the body of the text that is edited within the wysiwyg editor? That text is stored in the database, after being imported by your techy guys. If there are something simliar to bulletpoints in the original data that you import, you might be able to persuade the techies to use a search and replace type thing on the data before it gets put into the database – or you could even do this after it’s been put into the database. With 10,000 I’d definitely recommend automating it. It should be a simple enough script – 3hrs work, including testing maybe?

I had Northwave winter boots, and my feet would still get cold. One thing that did help was plugging all of the little screwholes around the cleat (I used chewing gum – it was an emergency!)

I’d love to get some sugru – put that on before mounting the cleat, another layer of sugru on top of the cleat (under the sole), and tinfoil and big insoles, or whatever it takes
(but for now I just use cleat-less shoes on all bikes in the depths of winter)

Don’t wear shoes with cleats on them! They’re like little heatsinks. In the depths of winter I wear hiking boots, even on a road bike (this was particularly when I was couriering)

I don’t think that Langster could be described as “too big” for anyone! I would have guessed it was the dark green Langster, but you can’t tell from the pic…
Good to see someone’s on the lookout!

My fave is the guy at 4:50, who seems to have snapped his handlebars. Possibly when the bike fell on his head, either the first or the second time… He still got up and tried to ride away! Mental.

@Mike the 5wt(which was blue) is definitely supposed to be in the upper of the right leg, and 15wt(which was yellow) in the lower, but the greeny blue mix of 5wt and 15wt that came out of the leg had me a bit worried…

I should have realised when there wasn’t much oil in the moco when I tried this service recently.

At least they’re an old set of forks and not worth much…

Thanks a million guys. I am kicking myself that I didn’t just send it to LoCo, but postage from here is 30eur, before getting anything serviced!
I am a bit more relieved at least…

I think if I *do* manage to get this fork back in PWO I might even treat it to a powdercoat 🙂

They’re not all shite. How tight is your chain? I notice one of your other thread titles is “SS Chain Tension – How tight is too tight?” – tight SS chains will eat BBs.

only 10 quid from chain reaction, just buy them.