No, I’m just jealous!

What on earth I’d do with a CX bike is another thing although I do like the ring of the word “embrocation”.

How much for a 29er with cable discs?!

Hmm, fair point. The dog’s a good idea!

Flippin ‘eck! I used to make longboard decks and have a vacuum bag/compressor I no longer use. I never got beyond prototyping but made some decent decks which I still have. I used my vac bag for pressing the wood on the mould, glassed it(a touch of carbon in the tail if I was feeling fancy) then shaped them. One of my favourites was a template I glassed out of curiosity :D It looks a bit rough as I used cheap glass bandage but it’s strong as a really strong thing.

I have a “pro 4” 0.4m^3 kit with a pretty hefty vacuum bag (missing one seal strip which costs about £13 from Bagpress):

http://www.bagpress.com/Materials_and_Accessories.html

If you’re interested you can have mine for £150ish +post, they’re over £600 new. Are you near Brighton? I also have a basic mould to get you started.

My email’s shameer AT gmx DOT co .uk

I just keep telling myself “one day”.

I just stumbled upon this and found the thread from searching in Google. My mind is blown, but then I wondered if this is “DWR coating” but available to the consumer market? However reading a bit more suggests there’s some nano magic going on.

It would be great on so many things; 90% of the bike (I wouldn’t want it on my tyres, braking surfaces or drivetrain), tents, hard household surfaces, outside of the car, windows, etc

I think the friction to drivetrain surfaces from shifting etc. would wear it off, also they kind of need the oil to stay lubed/not rust. Sidewalls would be good but I think treads need to be left to do their thing, also again the wear would strip the coating immediately.

OP, have you taken the plunge?

vix I reckon it depends on price and purpose. DD is more robust, I think the point behind sidewall only is that it is more supple/grippy so snakeskin has it’s place too.

As for width that’s very subjective. IIRC Spesh tyres come up large with Schwalbe being fairly accurate (don’t quote me on this!). Narrow suits mud due to clearance and pressure to find grip in the soup, mud clearance and lighter weight. Larger volume can be treated more roughly but rim width becomes a concern for 2.3+ as the profile can be too round if the rim is on the narrow side:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday–Wider-Rims-Are-Better-and-Why-Tubeless-Tires-Burp-.html

A low pressure big tyre offers lots of grip on different things and a bit more cush.

For a point of reference I use low volume 2.0 Mud XR at the moment and was on 2.25 ADvantages in the fairer months (large for their size, taller than some 2.5 WTB I have!). I don’t fancy much in the way of jumps and drops on my weeny little Muds but they are great for getting through the slop. I’ll probably be after some folding ADvantages/Nics in summer in a large volume 2.2

Anyway, enough about me. If you ride somewhere where your tyres get slashed (slatey/rocky etc) go for DD. If you don’t need that much protection go snake. I prefer 2.25 to 2.1 personally, you could do 2.25 front and 2.1 rear to make the most of the larger front patch and save a smidge of weight in the back?

Sometimes googling the topic with singletrackworld in the terms is more effective than the search box. As for “what tyres” threads people roll their eyes a bit but a lot of folk chip in. Explain what you’ve got, where you ride, budget and the tubelessing of them. It can help to have a starting point. It’s (hopefully) the only bit of your bike touching the ground so it’s worth getting right!

Check out this thread:

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/going-tubeless-9

There’s some useful stuff there, squizz through for my post/link on the ghetto inflator, you’ll probably need it for the rear. Go for a rubber rim strip (I use Joe’s No Flats, cheap from CRC) on the rear rather than yellow tape if you’re unsure of your tyres sealing ability. You can probably do this with your existing tyres if they’re folding and in good condition, wire probably won’t be rubbery enough at the bead to seal. Additionally if they’re full of holes from the punctures you’ve had it’s not the best start. Tubeless ready vs full on UST is discussed in the link too. Ready appears to be the winner.

Read up and give it a go :D

I’m enjoying the transition to tubeless, I’ve got Bonty Mud-XR on 719 rims using Joe’s No-Flats rubber rim strips and Stan’s sealant.

A ghetto inflater has been essential to setting them up! The best 9p you’ll ever spend.

Mine was a bit leaky, blu-tak inside the cap seemed to fix this. I also used something to pinch the hose while building pressure (a spare QR dropout) to let me pump with both hands.

Check out tubeless repair kits, sometimes referred to as ‘anchovies’, LINKY.

I find I need to top up the air between rides more but I imagine the tyre will seal more over time. It’s no biggy and the move to tubeless Mud-XR over wire ADvantages with a cheap tube is much lighter. IIRC full UST tyres weigh more than an equivalent tubeless ready tyre, but tubeless ready tyres may be a bit more porous/leaky over time.

I’ve got about 28psi in mine, the tyres aren’t large volume so I wouldn’t want less. You wouldn’t want an unexpected rimming in the woods now would you?

Old Boy. Weak.

Isn’t swapping kids for bikes illegal?

I think he’s going for the El Guapo. The spec’s damn good for the cash and I think they fall in the right gap between climby and burly for him.

Cheers for the replies.

A red taped moustache bar would go well, as would a 26″ front wheel.

LoProFoSho :wink:

Try moving your cleats back a touch (millimetres make a big difference here), this should be more supportive. Stiff shoes are good, if you stay on SPDs you’ll be looking for this in your future shoes and probably pay extra for it! Stiffer soles let your foot relax a bit as well as providing a more efficient pedal stroke. I’m back on flats but my carbon Shimano shoes (ebay bargain) were in another league to my nylon Spesh/Shimano MTB shoes.

Read up a bit on cleat placement, incorrect location can lead to injury. As you probably know a good starting point is central, so the axle is under the ball of the foot. Cushioned insoles relieve pressure to the sole and shock through the foot, aching arches are a more structural muscular thing.

I find the hardest thing is initiating, once I’m doing something then I get quite into it. On the rollers I’m more motivated watching a riding video as I feel connected to the purpose/outcome. Getting out at this time of year will pay dividends when the dust comes back, recognise the effort when it’s made.

Maybe a performance or process goal would help? Something objective like a faster time in a race/segment, better cornering etc. Apply the old SMART process to it, having something to work for which you gain at the end can feel pretty good as long as it’s planned properly.

Don’t be too hard on yourself, it looks horrible outside. But when you’re out there it’s still fun, you just need to be prepared a bit differently. Sometimes a new bit of kit helps to get excited about riding, you can never have too many tyres or comfy things to wear when it’s fierce outside.

By the way, while you have a cold focus on a bit of recovery and figure out an indoor training routine (in the week I do rollers for 5 days with yoga before bed, plank pose exercises at the weekends as my easy days). Write it down and set it around your week ahead. A training diary can help keep track of what works so you can adapt/increase load/focus on specifics as needed.

I’d be erked by creepy train tracks in the dark, that plan to ride with your mate sounds like a great idea :-)

Ugly bars, you’d at least expect them to be anodised in line with the other components rather than the LOOKATMYHOPEBARS colour scheme. The bulges at the rise look like Truvativ bars, they have the same shrugging “I dunno” look about them.

Deuter uni panniers, well made as with Deuter kit. £33 at Wiggle for a pair!

HERE

I have some, they’re a steal at the full price let alone this. Bung some drybags in there (Alpkit?) and you’re golden.

In my brief experience on a mate’s 456 the rear is duller than a PA (1 or 2). I currently have a Blue Pig X, better than the PA in numerous ways one of which is it that it’s quite twangy; strongly recommended!

Souls have a very loyal following but would be a step down in gnar from a PA. If this doesn’t matter that bargain up there may be worth a peek ^.

I think some steels are just a bit more real :wink:

There are lots of variables, as you mentioned steeper bikes (well, modern ones anyway) tend to have less travel than their slack chums. Slacker, longer travel bikes require a bit more body language to do what you want but this is a good thing when it comes to cornering and the like. Once you adapt to being more dominant and dynamic on the bike you can deal with the thing in more awkward situations. Equally the same can be said for riding a steep, short travel bike on steep terrain as you have to keep it in contact and absorb deflection.

I think the added oomf you need to give the longer travel bike is equal to a broader range of control as you have more degrees of subtlety to achieve the same thing. Rather than a twitchy ride with a narrow range of response which invites smaller inputs, like a track bike for example. A twitchy bike on deflective terrain (rocky/rooty etc descent) will be harder to control, it doesn’t help that bars are often narrower on these bikes!

I can’t put my preferences down to HA or BB height alone. I ride a Blue Pig X and like it’s slackness without a low BB (medium I’d say). Slack feels good to me, but I’m sure there’s a tipping point where it becomes unwieldy. Having a 150/130mm Rev means I can steepen and lower for climbs, it rides well like this too.

Valves out of line with tyre logos?

There’s something quite Jeremy Kyle about this thread.

I’ve got an RCT3 Rev and quite like the ‘threshold’ setting. If you didn’t know it’s like Propedal so is firmer but with a bit of give, I use this with the lower position for climbing and plainer flat sections.

I think dual position is a good choice on a long forked trail bike, it’s better than U-turn as you just flick the knob and bounce on the fork rather than wind the thing in/out. All the fun of 150mm with the occasional practicality of 120mm when you want it.

Triple with 11-36, stick a bash where the big is if she gets a bit more gnarly which adds protection (to her and the chainset) and makes it easier to wallop over things as you probably know. The double shape won’t take a bash due to the spidery bit:

The 24-32 granny and mid will be more comfy to use, she can access more of the gears more of the time without having to stay in the lower cogs with something like a 26-38. Single ring bolts are an option instead of a bash too but the lower gear combinations are only available on the triple. Unless she’ll be riding much on roads I don’t think the big/larger middle ring will be missed.

As long as the dog doesn’t figure out the source and cut out the middleman you’ll be fine.

You should have made a latte, or an expresso :wink:

Sorted, identical purple freeriders for £49.49 at Leisure Lakes :D With the new freeriders coming in soon I think they’re shedding old stock. You can even go via topcashback to increase the bargainosity of it all.

Get a 2nd hand Hope front wheel and a Superstar 9mm thru axle. The ‘wanted’ section is great for a cheap upgrade. IIRC the RWS is expensive and plasticky.

Have you figured out the settings yet? I got an RCT in December and it took a bit of reading/riding to sort it out. I think I’ve got it set now. I’ve been using the middle ‘threshold’ setting more than expected but the low speed compression needs to be set right to get the most from it otherwise it can feel like lockout.

I can see a short crank benefiting a BMX racer as there are short sprints between rollers, doubles and other things. A tighter circle to spin takes less time so more can be squeezed in between obstacles/features. I guess pedal technique is a big part of it. It’s a big jump at 180-170, on an mtb I would have assumed 170 to be on the smaller side for you unless you have a low BB or slick pedal stroke, although pedals and the geometry of your set-up are bound to contribute too. So many variables!

globalti, I think that trumps the transplant. Really trying to stop my brain attempting to grasp the idea. Some people should never have watched Jackass.

scaredypants :lol:

The ice topped mud pies are a bit interesting, they make me wince a little.

Settled on 175 for both. IME of 170, 172.5 and 175 they all feel fine but I prefer the wider stance and leverage of the longer cranks. I did notice whacking my pedals more when enlarging on the MTB, but soon adapted my technique to be more conscious.

I’ve read that the clearance and high cadence of shorter cranks is favoured by the 700c crowd. Apparently the dead centre is reduced as well as a more open angle at the hip (think thighs banging in you chest). Also there’s less chance of pedal strike if you keep spinning through a corner. However, longer cranks have been more associated with MTB, climbing and added leverage therefore torque but power was measured as the same. As well as the clearance issue already mentioned the platform you have to stand on is affected, I feel more stable with a wider base. Height and crank length are often associated, but obviously preference affects this too. OP how tall are you?

You also need to adjust your seatpost if you want to be precise about leg extension when tinkering with crank length as 6 o’clock will be lower/higher depending.

Hmm, sounds like a slippery slope towards fatness.

I hate it. Use levers, start at the valve and push the bead toward the centre of the rim for extra slack. Don’t show any frustration, tyres appear able to detect it and behave worse. A little air in the tube helps resist the pinch and check by squidging the bead and looking all the way round before inflating.

Edit: distracted by water bears, too slow.

I get paid a car allowance as part of my salary package.

My heart bleeds. Sell the bimmer, buy another car.

Reading it is one thing, taking it seriously is another. By switching off you shrug and let it get worse. Don’t try and change him, do engage in discussion and introduce a bit of counter argument and logic.

It’s not hard to pick flaws in the story, maybe show him the contrast of the same article reported in different styles?

The DM provides an easy way for yer man on the street to quickly update themselves and feel a sense of definitive opinion on the matter with the accompaniment of a strong sense of moral distinction. Unfortunately it’s very clever in how this is done. We are frighteningly easy to manipulate!

Was 8 (scores have been much lower lately), porridge is just too hot to eat so 7.5.

Why the 4/10?

My lesson has been; whatever you choose, do what you genuinely want to do, not what you think you should. We can convince ourselves quite strongly and fixate on a narrow goal, but I think a broader direction close to your real interests has more mileage.

You’ll only end up making the preferred choice after the wasted time, it’s the life equivalent of buying the cheap bike part, realising it’s a bit crap and having to get the thing you originally wanted anyway!

Study something you love with options, not something you like a bit with a specific goal. Hopefully as you learn you’ll find out new things (that’s the whole point right?) and there will be new opportunities available you are not currently aware of. Your grades suggest you have the potential and discipline for further study, learn as much as you can.

Take a gap year, gain some additional life experience, contact the sort of people you’d like to work for and ask them directly what they would want.

A strong sentiment in your first post is one of autonomy, working with others who are independently strong at what they do and the capacity to be creative with your problem solving. This will come when you are in the minority of holding knowledge about something and once you’ve found you’re specialism. This is unlikely to be clarified soon, but is a good thing to keep in mind.

Maybe ask Hope if you can do a work placement? Go and stay in/near Barnoldswick for a bit, ride your legs off and play with CNC milling machines :-)

A slack 953 frame like an LTHT but with 2″ of fairly stiff single pivot travel to go with a 140-150mm fork. Just a little give for flexing into corners and a smidge for landings; but by no means a compensator. Single pivot for a single piece back end and low maintenance & no weird bearing sizes! CNCd tapered headtube, or maybe a machined hourglass 44mm? Offset insert thingybobies at the pivot for more tweakery of the geometry to match fork choices/preferences.

Polished or brushed, straight-ish tubes, swap-outs for fettling potential. Simple, stainless and with options. The bastard son of a softtail, 4x bike and a LTHT.

I was in a similar position. You need a Hope pick n mix “2” upper and “H” lower with their reducer crown race.

HOPE BROCHURE

It could be extra convenient to buy a spare tapered crown race to fit one to each fork (on top of the reducer for the standard fork) to make swapsies easier. They are split so not too hard to remove but the less gouging/fiddling/levering on the crown the better eh? I wouldn’t bother with the cup above, the tapered cup has a nice big bearing and looks pretty good.

Hope :wink:

[/quote]decaf tea

*shudders*

I’ll take an unwanted Porlex off someone’s hands if it’s a burden, my email’s shameer AT gmx.co dot uk

I see myself grinding small batches, the effort doesn’t bother me so much. The lack of plastcky bits, replaceable parts and small size appeals.

I don’t see myself buying an electric mill, I’d probably continue to buy ground coffee if it didn’t work out between me and the moulin. The portability is enticing for big tent camping with the Mrs.

Free post at Rosebikes temporarily and a discount code on Facebook if you do some Googling.

I think you can get SLX for £55ish an end there, the free postage is £100+.