http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/151/bsdcvn/dia-compe-v-noodle–boot-stainless-steel.html

So why are noodles so poorly plated?

Saving pennies.

I have a CM on 719 up front and it’s a bit round, I wouldn’t put one on anything smaller. Don’t put a Smorg there either, not enough shoulder.

I’d look at 2.2 and smaller, toward the lower volume end of things for a nice quick setup. Like an XC High Roller or the smaller Nobby Nic.

Maybe pop an ad in the wanted section?

Post is the right size, I ride all year round and the inside of the frame is a little rusty (dusty rust, not furry).

I think I’ll try the soft clamp/vice twist thing but I’m concerned about mashing the keyway that stops the stanchion from twisting in the seatpost.

I’ve read coke will eat through both metals, plusgas sounds good though.

Thanks all for the replies so far :-)

Chiefgrooveguru, we’re in Sheffield now. The riding is much harsher and not quite as convenient to squeeze in. I miss the ability to quickly blast a loop around Stanmer, but the rocky stuff here is refreshing. Sometimes it’s like climbing on scree with big square blocks chucked in for fun and the descents don’t have much in terms of corners (apart from the built stuff). It’s making me consider FS again :oops:

I pummelled a bar end cap right into my inner thigh, no riding for a while…

How’s life? Which FS did you settle on? Solaris?

In the past year the Marin Attack Trail has become a Blue Pig X;

Fork upgraded from Pike to 150mm RCT3 Rev.
Tubes lessened (tubes to rimstrips, now duct tape and crossed fingers),
Mud XR, then ADvantages, now On-One combo,
Brakes upgraded from previous to current XT,
ODI Crosstrainers replacing Ruffians,

Erm… and now rolling around the Peak instead of Brighton/South Downs!

Mech hanger most likely, easy and cheap to fix. Contact LBS, get one ordered in.

A good look at each dropout should show the drive side as a tear-drop (apt, no?) shape rather than parallel sided. The frame is unlikely to be in the pinched bit with that sort of impact.

Chunk/smorg here too, on 719s. I wouldn’t fancy a smorg on the front, quite a round tyre. Folding went up tubeless easy as and the ‘eckso’ gives me peace of mind in’t Peak.

Great value, a little draggy but grippy when it counts. Weight is a little tubby but fine when compared to other reinforced tyres of a generous size.

Would be nice if they a more defined shoulder, but I guess they’re not in that family of treads. Cheap n cheerful.

:wink:

Don’t repress and binge, just eat when you want to. Distracted eating (watching TV etc) makes it much harder to keep track of portions and feel satisfied from what you’ve consumed.

At least the nuts will help you shift the load :wink:

I really like my Blue Pig X and it feels nicer than the 2 PAs I had (more stable in the front, slacker, more give in the back, headtube/seattube size, mud clearance etc). Being able to fit a tapered fork, 30.9 dropper and route the cable/hose to do so is handy.

If you can grab a 2nd hand BPX then do, the newer non-X frames are £315 here: http://www.justmountainbikes.co.uk/delivery_pricing and at CRC.

Be aware that the mk1 frames had slimmer tubes for the head and seat tube.

It’s hard to describe but the BPX feels stiffer than the PAs, 456 and Latitude I’ve tried but yet with more compliance in the rear end in a good way. I think it’s something to do with the mumbo jumbo that’s been done to the stays as well as the odd butting in the front triangle.

I have an ’03 1.4 HDi. My first car :-)

It’s had issues with the head gasket, fuel return, floppy indicators over correcting (comms unit), rear axle, track end rod thingy, exhaust falling off. But, £30 tax due to low emissions and economical fuel consumption a plus.

The parts are common, I can get 2 bikes in the back (just) and park in most gaps.

I’d like the estate version of the same. Mine’s even girlier in metallic eyeshadow blue :wink:

200mm is a safe bet, headsets and stem stack vary as do headtube height so allow some slack. I’ve got 15mm below and 10mm above the stem.

As said Rons are great for milder environments but tubeless tyres in rougher terrain need a bit of protection, often in the sidewall. Schwalbe’s snakeskin is meant to answer this if you want to stay with the tread. IIRC there have been numerous issues with Schwalbe and tubeless to the point of delamination! I read something on here about Stan’s pulling support of Schwalbe tyres, which is odd as they make their sealant :|

Maxxis with Exo or On-Ones with ‘eckso’ should seal up fine and be fairly tough. My On-Ones are surviving well amid the Peak gritstone.

I have 719 on Pro 2 hubs and they’re great but I’d like more capacity for a larger tyre to square things off a bit. When I have the funds I’ll be looking to get some Flow Ex on Pro 2 Evo.

Before you commit to the 719s consider the restriction to tyre choice. They’re fantastic rims but the Arch Ex may offer more flexibility in terms of tyre width being 21mm and also have the bead socket thingy bob should you shun the tube. They also weigh less which is a bonus.

Wiggle has Arch Ex Hoops at £290, being the Evo you’d get stainless bearings and an easy peasy axle swappability for the rear. 719 on Pro 2 at Merlin would be over £300, arch ex would be getting close to £320.

The Endura Spectrum glasses are great. I use a yellow set for everything, it’s fine at night and brightens up any overcast day into something much nicer… I mean it adds crucial contrast so I can shred with greater accuracy.

They seem to be about £14 most places, have antifog and both a hard and soft case. A wash every now and then restores the antifog and I’m not too precious about them. For the price you could get a clear and tinted set and have money left over.

Wot he said ^ Deore On-One’s are a great deal.

Next year’s a fair bit of time away, don’t buy the daft bargain and get the right thing for the job. It needn’t cost an arm and a leg but riding a DJ bike in Morzine just might!

Loads of rotational weight for a kind of, but not fat bike. Looks like when someone puts DH tyres on a trail bike to be more gnar. No ta.

I guess you could call it a moob-bike, not quite fat but carrying a bit extra :wink:

Frames will continue to have 1 1/8″ for a few years yet and fork spares support will outlast that by even more. I reckon you’ll naturally upgrade within that time.

Chunk & Smorg here. Went up very easily with the track pump alone on my duct taped 719s. I would not put a CM on anything narrower, it’s fairly round and looks to suit a wider rim.

In my summery use it’s been going ok. Doesn’t feel like it has a click into the the shoulder lugs as there is a bit of a groove. When it has let go it has been progressive. The Smorg lets go quite easily, I would not put one in the front. Briefly had a little mud fun and it cleared ok but I think it will take a bit of getting used to trusting them at a lean. But I have that with any new tyre!

I think the compound helps, I’m running them at 27/29 psi on a Blue Pig X. They did feel a bit draggy when softer but would suit being softer for someone who was just descending.

I got the pair for £32.50 in foldy dual comp. I’m not expecting much of them when it turns to slop, but I’ve got Mud XRs for that. Give ’em a go.

Locally there’s someone with their motorbike chained to a length of fat chain cast in a big block of concrete. They used a big container/planter and filled that up.

You could set a steel ring into this too and you wouldn’t need to drill into the ground or nuffink.

They will wear in a bit. My Vaults didn’t spin freely by hand, but now they are a tad looser, the left one moreso for some reason? If they feel fine to ride but don’t spin much that’s ok. If you can feel it pedalling then maybe get inside them to back off the bearing compression nut.

Did you get the 5tens?

A Soul would probably have been enough, but it depends on which trail centres and how you ride them. The more hardcore, the less comfy it is with extra reinforcement to cart about all the time. If you ride more gnarly stuff then the BFe is meant to be excellent but it is specifically designed for a beating. Can you change your mind with the order?

If you’re gouges are from chainsuck this needs addressing too as you may just ruin the next frame!

Suck it up, you’ll only buy them in the end anyway! They’re awesome, I bought a second pair as a back up when mine were looking tired but they’re happily chugging along and look to have a fair while left yet. Just make sure you clean and dry them after a clagfest and they’ll look after you.

I’m converted, it’s an indulgent mark up but they’re worth it.

Carry a cheap mech if you’re worried! Ask for a Deore/X5 in the wanteds and keep it in the pack for such an occasion.

Simple, easy and gives you the ratios to carry on without compromise.

Although I didn’t like the ODI snapcaps at first I see that they’re actually quite clever. Bar ends accumulate knocks and bumps and tatty anodising looks crap.

ODI FTW!

24″ jump bike?

Google “seat clamp rack mount” there are lots out there for not much which will give you a fixing point.

This one looks good:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bontrager/eyeleted-seatpost-clamp-ec032907?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=froogle&utm_content=mkwid__pcrid_17321847296_kword__match__plid_

In malt we trust. I was walking in the Cairngorms with friends in winter and these were like gifts from the gods. Schmeared with some butter they really help replenish the day’s beasting.

I like flattening it, rolling it up and eating it in a little stick shape. Like a malty blunt.

Some cheap tools are frustratingly poor, some work fine. I found my cheap Icetoolz chainwhip to be perfectly fine. The Icetoolz HT2 bb tool was good for most cups, but it relies on an 8mm allen key which is bendy when freeing up a stubborn cup. Superstars 1/2″ drive bb tool is far better (you need a 1/2″ ratchet handle) but doesn’t have the tension bolt tool…which the Icetoolz one does so I keep both. Cyclo long handled (ball on the long end, flat on the short) allen keys from Halfrauds have been pretty good for a few years now and were about £10.

I got cable/hose cutters from Decathlon which are great. If you need to use a spanner on anything it’s really worth getting a proper dedicated size tool rather than using an adjustable. They slip open and round the bolt you really needed not to round! Park’s chain brute is the only one that I haven’t broken and is small enough to carry on rides. Oh, and a peg spanner for the back of chainring bolts is really handy too.

I just had a squizz on bikeradar and found this:

There’s reasonable tyre space, clean cable routing and conventional bottle placement. The dropped driveside chainstay can cause chainsuck though, so keep the chain lubed and loved.

Hmm. I wonder if adding tension at the rear mech via the B-screw would help? Worth a go before alignment fettling as it’s so easy to do, just keep track of how many turns you add!

Do it!

Wot he sed ^

150/120 in the front, good steel in the middle and an uppy downy thing on top.

It’s half scalpel, half mallet.

I think it may come from motorbikes, where many have 2 separate bars. Hence a set of bars. Or it’s just inaccuracy.

Some are still one piece like ours:

Not so sure of their conversational value, but I’d still like to breed with them. Or certainly just practice breeding.

:lol:

Back to the troll question in hand: Consider car wheel sizes, motorbike wheel sizes, kayak shape/size, surfboard shape/size, etc etc. And anyway, I thought 27.5 was replacing 26″?

I have done, but for mincecore not thrashing. Look for indicators of how the bike’s been treated and ask where it’s been used.

I bought a MET crossover on a budgetty whim and I’m really chuffed with it; 255g, under £35 and even has a red LED blinky on the dial.

Looks fairly inoffensive in matt black and it’s comfy enough not to notice once I’m riding. POCs are heavy and expensive.

I was speculating about the yellow tape not taking to the rim properly, hence keying. If there are any voids at the tape then air will escape, regardless of the bead seal. Electrical tape may work but the rim strip/yellow tape and the choice between the two is defined by Notubes as relative to the rubber used.

FWIW I use duct tape :wink:

Patch the tyre, the sealant won’t manage that on it’s own. Park tyre boot?

In case you go for Shimano again, the plastic tophats can be popped off and more grease smeared around inside ’em. Lots of people seem to go for XTR from Rose, however they have lightweight race seals. I thought I needed to replace mine (probably Deore, came with a Hone chainset from Merlin last year) as my non drive side was seizing, greased it up and it’s fine now! Probably won’t get beyond winter but I reckon greasing it in advance would have prolonged it’s life further.

The tension bolt thingy can very easily be overdone which will definitely kill the bearings.

Saw this about popping stainless cartridges into HTII cups: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1137096