I've used covers on my car before and they're only really suitable for putting on a clean dry car. This was with a 400 quid breathable cover too.

The time you spend faffing with a cover several times a week would be better spent washing it once a week in my opinion. The battery conditioner could be kept dry under the bonnet etc.

You can change them. I removed a bearing last night and there's no evidence of any bonding. I tapped the bearing out with a punch and hammer and pressed the new bearing in with the correct sized drift that can be bought from hope.

I found it easier to remove the cup from the frame first.

Done it several times this way without any problems.

Epicyclo’s Morris Minor:

Hate it. My car defaults to traction control on, and it gets turned off as soon as the engine is started. Riding a GSX-R 1000 teaches a bit of throttle control.

The Eos probably has ESP though which is much more than traction control and will use yaw sensors and steering sensors to brake individual wheels and other funky stuff.

Just got an online quote of £300 from M&S. Thanks to all posters so far.

Any other options?

Any idea if that’s £4k per bike or £4k total for bikes?

Ton, you did the right thing.

I’m genuinely shocked by the responses of some people on here.

Tony, I’ll take the 2nd bearing if you only want the one. I assume they’re unused?

Subaru wheel bearings are notoriously week. Had one fail on my Impreza at 25k miles that was silent except when leaned on very hard at over 100mph.

Rear wheel bearings tend to rumble (but quietly) on the subarus, fronts tend to be quiet but can give you a lot of pad knock off.

Propshaft would be the next thing I checked, followed by rear diff mounts.

I believe the Foresters share a lot with the Impreza, so it may be worth asking on scoobynet.com, and for really clever people try bbs.22b.com.

Don’t bother. 140mm is perfect on the front of my 5. Another 20mm travel is really not worth the bother and expense of 2 set of forks.

Aracer – 40psi seems to accelerate wear slightly. Although fancy apex seals (ie horrendously expensive) have improved this on the new engine.

Samuri – Not sure about the VAG dump valve to be honest. Road going diesels are not my strong point, and have advanced so much in recent years that it could well be possible.

Not quite. It’s a Mazda 13B rotary in an RX-2 chassis.

Coffeeking, don’t have any pics of the current turbo here. A lot has changed but the pic below will give you a rough idea.

This was the old turbo, which ran similar pipe work, but including a dump valve that is no longer used, flat foot shifting has negated the need.
Throttle body in the pic split which gave a good reason to go to a bigger turbo and more fuel. There is enough capacity on the fuel system to reach 50psi in the near future. Although it is already making approx 900HP at the wheels!

This turbo in conjunction with 5 others produced 70psi boost. Whistles like **** when they get going, although the spool is a little slow. Again no dump valve, but it is a Diesel!

Nearly all diesels have no need for a dump valve as they don’t use a throttle butterfly.

Infact not all petrol engines ‘need’ them. Currently running over 40psi boost with no dump valve with good results on a car I’m playing with.

Kinda666 – That’s not a chav-mobile. That’s a classic car!

Burns and McRae did not use dump valves as they had proper Anti-Lag.

Nearly all road-going turbocharged petrol engines will use a dump valve of some sort.

It’s only the Tesco car park numpty brigade that feel the need for a noisy dump valve. The funny thing is the car normally drives worse when they are fitted, compared to the standard re-circ valve.

Two of the lads in my office have had these for a few weeks now. Both are chuffed to bits with them and both are fussy buggers with fairly impressive home entertainment setups.

Not sure where they purchased from, could find out in the morning though.

That’s very poor on Hope’s behalf.

As Joe said, if you do try a bearing supplier make sure you take the bearing out of the cup and take it with you. I seem to remember one side of the inner race is chamfered. This will make it twice as expensive and a pain to get hold of.

Good luck!

I got the bearings from Hope, via the LBS and fitted them in the existing cups. Came to less than £20 from memory, but it was a while ago now!

Any Hope stockist should be able to get the bearings in.

Treated myself to this at Xmas, and a box of Yoshimura goodies has appeared on my desk this morning.

Was going to wait for the weather to improve but couldn’t resist it, so it’s now filthy.