Put the DHR2 on the front and something faster on the rear.

cheers nick – it was your post that made me try again

Was mine too straight to the point?

Not sure why you’d want to see ANY of your “friends” excercise data.
You were either there in which case you wouldn’t need to see it.
Or you weren’t there and there’s even less need to see it.

If an actual mate in the pub starts telling you about an activity they did and then went on to include stage names, times, HR data etc. You’d laugh at them and probably tell them to STFU. No?

What H/A does a park BMX have Jim?
And what gradient is the first part your wheels roll down as you drop in to vert ramp?

Those of us who learned as kids to ride vert on a BMX have no trouble riding a nice steep short travel dirt jump hardtail down what you ‘on trend’ #Enduro boys seem to consider steep.

When it gets rough suspension is handy.
When it gets faster slacker Head angles (are just one way to) help keep things stable.

Better mud clearance. lower BB. slightly faster steering (assuming you are switching to a 27.5 fork with greater offset.). Stronger lighter wheels. Cheaper tyres.

pretty much win win win win win win in my book*.

If you’re planning on just using your 26″ fork. You might want to try and use a tall stack lower headset cup or run the fork 10-15mm longer. (Depending on your geometry preferences)

BB height should be a fairly noticable difference. Coves had fairly high BBs. cotics BB height is lower but not really low or anything.
Low BBs are ace once you get your head round it.

*Available in antique book shops under A for AWESOME in the free thinking section.

I refer you to the 5th sentence in my last post Matts.

Otherwise race.

No mtb mudguard can keep ALL the mud and water off your face.
As a general rule. the longer the mudguard and greater tyre coverage the more it’ll keep off. the downside of this is the uglier your bike will look.
Still… better that than wearing an XC helmet with motocross goggles.

Whenever I see that look I think this:

but apparently Enduro is cool. So it’s ok.

Strava has self appointed judges? ^^ 😯

Shouldn’t really surprise me. 😕

Those looking for alternatives. There’s no need to quit strava. Just stop taking it so seriously. It’s free and it’s up to you how much importance you put on your stats. Caring about other peoples’ is just weird.

haha…

You have no idea how hard I go in the comfort of my own home. 😉
I don’t turbo train at all. And have no interest in doing so.
Just curious as to why you need a £750 computer to run a game with graphics that wouldn’t look out of place on a PS2.

It’s the graphics card that matters most with Zwift so that means gaming laptop which unfortunately means expensive.

If this is the case. Can anyone explain why Zwifts graphics look like they were nicked from Midtown Madness from 20 years ago?

Post modernism? Nah.
I simply prefer to have a coil spring in my suspension in certain situations whereas air is preferable for others. My preference. Not yours.
The sooner you get over yourself as a coil spring evangelist the better. For us all. 😉

Whooooosh

Having coil springs in your dandy horse makes you no better than other men. You’ve simply made a choice based on what you perceive to be “better”.
This perception doesn’t actually make it so.

Be more careful putting it in the car?

This whole “gravel” thing seems to be made up by american roadies afraid to ride bicycles on a road.

But, it could be ridden on steeper more technical stuff if they came slacker?

What are you even talking about?
You don’t need a slack head angle to ride down steep inclines. or to ride technical trails.
Slack head angles are more stable at speed. That’s it.

It’s a ‘what if’ thread, why do I need to explain myself?

You don’t! Not if you don’t want to. Might seem a bit odd being your thread though. 😛
My interest in why you want the things you stated only comes from having many “unsuitable” (mainly 4X, dirtjump and slopestyle) bikes over the years myself. and set them up to be able to do everything from all day XC, ride up DH to DJ/4X/Stunting on without compromise.
Rorschach has it pretty spot on in his summary of what you said you want. let go of the eccentric BB and Steel fettish and you could be onto something pretty wonderful though. 😉

ha ha

unhappy hour?

😉

I asked Kayla the question. Hence the “@Kayla1” before said question.

I think I see now why you’re so attached to sookin’ a bottle. Amedias. I’m not in the slightest interested in what bike you’d like or why.

Stronger, cheaper, lighterer init?

😉

Standing starts are where the torque spike comes from on my bike.
I’m heavy.
it’s heavy.
a big ol’ swingarm compressing, extending and altering chaingrowth/tension probably doesn’t help.
No idea how we could quantify those differences.
be interesting to find out how much power you’re puting in bouncing up a climb in comparison to me sprinting from a standstill though.

Errr! It’s £43.99 delivered

er..
The bike I linked to has an Aluminium frame and as a complete bike is a similar price to a steel Cotic full sus frame.

😕

This isn’t news.
A decent rider can adapt to the shortfallings of either spring type. So doesn’t really care*.

*except Minnaar

Sounds like we need some sort of GCN/MBUK style challenge?

😆

If only I had a free and enjoyable way of getting to and from my local Smyths store tomorrow.

oh… wait 😆

The shimano (DX) sprockets I use are five quid each. (I have 3 for different DH tracks). Chain was about a tenner. (SRAM 9 speed IIRC) chosen as it’s a tight fit on the DX sprocket teeth but also works well with the NW chainring teeth.
a slipping chain under power on a DH bike is not something I ever want to be dealing with.
Dunno if any of this info helps you or not.

So Luke. you’re disappointed with a product you’ve been looking forward to for years. Don’t own and have no actual no experience of? That’s pretty good going. Even for here. 😆
There’s actually going to be loads of single player content in this one.
it’s £39.85 at shopto.net I don’t think you’ll find it much cheaper anytime soon. Not this year anyway.

I’m using one of these on a singlespeeded 200mm travel DH bike.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XLC-A04-SINGLE-SPEED-KETTENSPANNER-2-MTB-SINGLESPEED-FIXIE-BMX-CHAIN-TENSIONER-/230833062094?hash=item35beb900ce
It’s sprung (adjustable tension) and the arm can be rotated upwards to the chainstay to give greater chain engagement on the rear sprocket. As you can imagine. with a 200mm DW link rear end the chain growth is pretty big and this just works brilliantly with a NW ring and no other chain retention needed.
I almost went for a copy of the tensile one you’ve linked to but mud shedding and adjustability are even better with this more minamalist version.
The whole bike now stays much cleaner/lighter and picks up way less mud than a cassette/mech/Chaindevice ever could.
I’m guessing this may be a bonus for a fatbike too?

@kayla1

https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/products/bikes/mtb/dirt/the-jester/

Why would you want steel? it’s always heavier. No stronger really. but repairable I suppose. do you break a lot of frames?
And why would you need waterbottle mounts on a bike you won’t climb (much) or do long rides on?
Just drink a pint of water before you ride. and have another at the end.

Been playing the open beta of GT Sport this week and swithering over whether to buy it myself. It is very good but being a racing sim maybe not so much fun for an 11yr old.

Plenty older (v.cheap) open world driving games available for PS4 too.
eg. The crew. Burnout paradise. Need for speed Most wanted/Rivals.

The ultimate open world driving around/racing game on both consoles is GTAV by a mile though. Played online with the sound muted it’s actually fairly harmless for an 11yr old. (Single player not so much) But play it yourself and make that decision based on your experience rather than some noddy off the internet.

Choice of console is more a choice between whether it’s for you or your boy.
kids tend to have X-box. Adults PS4.
many households have both.

Cool runnings is a fast but uninspiring pedally trail with 5 bermed corners a bit more pedalling then two more at the end. it’s only 30sec long.
You missed nothing special really. (unless you prefer climbing to descending).

So why bother quoting ..?
Are you all the same weight?

There’s far more to tyre pressures than simply quoting rider weight against tyre pressure/Volume.
These riders who go around quoting low pressures like it’s something to brag about?. Now let’s be honest here. Do these riders ever even hit corners fast? No. Of course not. No one who’s happy using plus tyres ever does. All that grip plus tyre fans rave about is actually pointless as their big oversized super grippy low pressure tyres lack support in corners.

Well. If you really have to ask… 😛

Whenever I read threads like this I tend to think most of the contributers must either be posh or stupid. possibly both.

It’s just riding a bike. If you’re not very good at it. It really won’t matter what footwear or pedals you do it with.

Maxtorque can’t manual.

I can. video it if you like. but I want payed.

😯

Why is every skills thread on here full of advice from people who can’t actaully perform said skill? 😕

TOP tip: down THEN back! (not down&back)

For instance. The above is not a top tip at all. it’s a beginner strategy taught by skills coaches and regurgetated by beginners.
I don’t ever do the “L” shape skills coaches teach. Never have.

The solution is actually really simple. Type less. ride more.

But here are a few pointers:

If you can comfortably manage to get the front wheel up to the balance point you’re already halfway there.
Teach yourself how to step off the back safely.
Don’t practice on grass. it’s too draggy. (by all means practice wheelies on grass – that extra resistance actually helps beginners with wheelying).
The fear of looping out will go eventually.
Assuming you’re doing everything else properly (straight arms/low CoG etc.):
When you are about to go past the balance point bend your legs bringing your pelvis towards the saddle. When the front end is getting too low extend your legs pushing your pelvis away from the saddle. It’s really that simple.
Make sure your saddle is as slammed as you can get it. the higher it is the less room you have to hold the balance point.

How incredibly selfish and inconsiderate of YOU.

Not speaking to other riders on the trail.
and
Setting off too close behind obviously slower riders on every descent rather than leaving a decent gap.

what’s your excuse?

self entitlement?

Slight hijack but anyone any tips on how to remain in the attack position for longer than 5-10 minutes without acute cramp in the quads setting in?

10 minutes?
Wow!
Try not being weak.