The way I see it there are two distinct types of Enduro eventist.

1) The racer – There to try and get a good result.

2) The event goer

I don’t really understand option 2. Not while £55 still gets you 2 cases of decent beer and a Kebab.

No doubt, but so what?

So it isn’t like worrying about Hamilton’s tyre pressures in your Mondeo.
It’s like choosing a RACE tyre to help you mince about on in slightly more control. Because that’s exactly what you are doing.

And as for the rest, he’s on a 650b modern geometry Mega C isn’t he?

Not as “modern geometry” as his 2005 bike was.

never used a soft compound tyre Greyspoke?
in here. That surprises me.

A mate’s selling a carbon Whyte 150mm 29er enduro bike for about that. couple of weeks old.
it’s a medium but longer than I’d want (I’m 5’11”)
I’ve no idea of any more details other than it’s fast as. he just wants to go back to smaller wheels.
I can pass on your details if you’re interested.
Scottish Borders/SE based.

Bikes come spec’d for Mr Average. finding ANY bike that’s spec’d exactly how you’d want it is nigh on impossible unless you go custom build.

it’s like worrying about what tyre pressures Lewis Hamilton uses

No it isn’t Northwind. you probably wouldn’t have ever ridden a DHF if it wasn’t for the likes of Sam Hill.
Talking of Sam. he’s pretty much singlwhandedly proven all the new new shit (wheel/tyre sizes, new geometry, XXL bikes for shortarses etc. etc). most #enduro wannabe mtbers crave to make them faster really isn’t.

and as for tyre pressures. Hill will be most likely be running higher pressures than you. As going fast requires it.

As NOT used by Jimmy Pratt

If you really must do another excercise. Dig!

but sometimes things other than riding a bike can make riding a bike more fun and better.

Measuring
weighing
calculating
Buying
Worrying
Measuring
weighing
calculating
Buying
Worrying
Measuring
weighing
calculating
Buying
Worrying
Measuring
weighing
calculating
Buying
Worrying…

Just ride your bike a bit more mate. 😉

Don’t be one of those guys

I’d like to try one. Shame they’re so expensive!

No. it’s a good thing they’re so expensive. It’s an idiot tax. Much like middle aged Sportive no hopers and powermeters.
Just ride your bike.
Slam the saddle and don’t raise it again until you’re no longer weak and can manage a decent length manual.

older 105

Rockshox website has good service videos

Ah… Cheers. I’ll take a swatch at somepoint. maybe while GT7 is on to save *£50 😛

* plus not spoiling it obvz.

The saggy post thing is dead easy to sort frinstance, anyone that can service a fork can do it.

you don’t happen to have a link to a guide or video of this do you?

Nah… Sorry. Don’t get it.

Don’t get any of these cycling “events” if I’m honest.

PSN exclusives worth playing

RAIN
The unfinished swan
Dishonoured
GRID
Little Big Planet
Uncharted
Killzone 2
Infamous 2

The Last of us is the greatest console game ever made BTW. Good choice.

ok. give them to the poor then

keep wearing them?

I was a huge davidtaylforth fan. Went to various BMX spots and Hamsterly forest hoping to meet him. Had almost given up hope then one day he turned up in the local pub. turned out he was only in to get his waterbottle filled and rode off into the distance on a touring bicycle.

😥

I guess auto correct is predicting what it thinks you should be saying. almost seems rude not to crack open a few now, eh?

🙂

And NEVER EVER remove your feet in the air on purpose or table/whip your bicycles, eh Tazzy?
We’re all special but we’re not all the same so let’s not make fun of each others little differences, eh? 😉

I’ve just got back from spending an hour on my hardtail, with my toddler on his balance bike, playing on the little jumps etc on the derelict grit pitch near my house.

cool. Glad to hear it. similar sort of scedule for me except I rode for work those 3 days too.
You can learn a lot from riding with kids (and I’m not taking the piss here at all)

I have lots of kids so know very well what it can be like trying cram bike riding in around work and a family too.

Calm down Wrecker and stop looking for stuff to be offended by.

Despie the experience I have. The reason I am so non-committal on giving out advice on the subject of bar height is because it is massively subjective and as seen here it’s very very easy to give out poor advice. Especially if you are partial to listening to fashion media, rumour and blind information regurgitation.

to paraphrase Cookea:

There is no CORRECT height

Same as Jameso – polished just the outside faces of a good few sets of Saint cranks but couldn’t ever be bothered re buffing them. Life’s too short. I’m a bike rider not a cleaner 😉 They are all now oxidised apart from heel scuffs (which remain shiny). But still look better than just heel scuffed wear on the dark grey/black anodising IMO.

Polishing attachments for your dremmel and autosol (or equiv) make it a lot less tedious job.

Does look well nice if you’re more of an instagram type of rider 😉

Definitely! Beer and bongs 😉

BMX puts all the mtb geometry scientists data on here into perspective somewhat, eh?

Should be awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Not interested in collecting DVDs now that everything is so instantly available but do miss Props on VHS.

Futon – The accuracy of that statement is so true it’s creepy.
And talking of creepiness. Seems a few of you need to get out a little more.
and talking about not getting out. You managed to ride a bike since this thread started yet Chief?

Ok. This just got a little bit too weird

I think you’ll find what you actually said was “high was great for manualling” Something you cannot actually do.
But ok. have it your way.

“But that was my point – it’s a bit easier to lift the front wheel with the bars a bit higher.”

Which If you could actually hold a manual. You’d know. has very little to do with whether a bike is easy to hold a manual on or not.

My point here is simply that you are overthinking pretty much everything. (possibly because of your limited skills and time to gain them).

I can set my bars to MY optimum height very very quickly and accurately. Because I do have a ton of experience in both setting up bikes and riding them and know exactly how I like my bars set up on every type of bike I ride. infact I’m incredibly particular about bar set up.
However. none of your theories on bar height would get any of my bar heights on any of my bikes close. Why? because you’ve never actually met me and have no idea how I like my bikes set up.
For an experienced rider this subject really is that simple.

Wrecker. I apologise if you felt I was insulting you. I should have chosen my words more carefully.

How far can you manual Chief?

Because. other than raising the front wheel with slightly less effort.

high was great for manualling

Simply isn’t true.

but is the COG on a motorbike not vastly different…?

Yes. It is. and so it should be.

This thread started off naively ignorant and has evolved into utterly idiotic by a few contributors who have gone so far into overthinking and geeking out they seem to have forgotten that the fundamental skills required to ride a bike well still plays the greatest part. (ie. the rider)

prices are ridiculous though

🙁

If you believe Chris Porter…

I’ve also had a few rides on my mates Stanton Sherpa and that feels like a big wheeled BMX.

I just got off my 20″ BMX.
Thanks for the lols. Especially you Bungel.
😆

Rather obviously. Yes.
The exact same thing in a larger size generally is.

Sounds like this information could save you a lot of time. 😉

mark the a line on the centre of your headtube to align the cups to. it doesn’t matter if it’s not absolutely perfect.
human beings aren’t either.

As in Dual Ply. ie. DH casings? They allow you to run low pressures (25-28psi on a 2.4) and actually corner hard without the sidewall squirming or folding.

they were never really meant for allowing spods to run 12psi over rocks but they might do that too. Hence the abundance of thicker sidewall tyres used these days.

TomTom look at Sports direct for huge savings.

From memory from when I was looking at such things I seem to remember the Giant frames were the lightest alu ‘duro frames around.

Seems to me that all the ancillary shit that we bolt onto our #Enduro frames these days has gone up in weight- wider bars, bigger wider wheels, bigger, wider, stronger tyres, dropper posts, dinner plate sized cassettes, chain guards,Tubes, Co2, pumps/tools, bottles, gels, mudguards all adds a lot of weight very easily.

Single ring, big cassette and a minimalist guide is still a bit lighter than an extra chainring, shifter and front mech. Fashionably wide rims are often a little lighter than I’d personally want and now that most folk run tubeless running Exo tyres doesn’t have such a big weight penalty either.

*sigh*
When one does not know the definition of a word it’s probably best practise not to use that word to describe oneself. Nevermind defend others use of it.

Oh. Ok. Sorry Matt. Wasn’t entirely clear from your question.

Firstly ignore anyone you’ve never met who says “definitely No.” They’re wrong.
Have you ridden the FSR previously?
did you find the BB a little high?
Would you like it a little lower?
How about 19mm lower? (wiassuming similar width tyres)

Answer that and you have your “virtual” answer.

Assuming you’re buying a 29er fork of suitable axle to crown height it’ll steer/turn a little differently than stock due to the axle offset/smaller wheels. You may or may not notice this. it’s a fairly subtle change. (more noticable the slacker/lower the bike is IME).

Well… if you

1. had a cheap bike.
2. were any good at being a dick
3. ever beat people.

1 out of 4 isn’t too bad I suppose.