Everything I say here has some merit.

This thread is absolutely **** retarded

V. possibly the best bald tyre 100mm hardtail vets DH rider in the country.
Confident and know my shit when it comes to riding.
If something’s giving me trouble I will work out why and work on it until I’m happy I’ve sorted out the issue.
Unphased by steepness, technical descents, cambers, jumps, wet roots etc.
Am not afraid to push it too far and crash my brains out.
I can confidently ride switch.
Am fairly smooth and stylish for my age.

Am currently the most unfit I have ever been in my life.
Fairly shit at slow speed shore and know it.(there’s not really any round here) .
I don’t trust wet woodwork.
Won’t drop to flat if it’s avoidable and I’ll often ride round puddles on dry days.

Look up dyspraxia adhd and add

24 fully functional bikes.
9 are mine, one is my GFs and 14 are the kids’ (I bought/built all of them so I suppose they all kinda belong to me)

Which Michelins’ are you talking about? Michelin do more than a few DH tyre treads?

No worries 8)

Emmanuel – I did read your post properly and you didn’t actually say any of that ^^ at all! If you read my reply properly you’ll find I was actually agreeing with you but making your easily misinterpereted description a little clearer by explaining why moving your weight helps. You might as well tell him to do the “hokey-cokey” if you’re not going to bother saying the reasoning behind it ;)

Chief – DHRs do indeed brake pretty well in a straight line but that’s about all they do well.. there’s a very good reason no decent riders really use them

Only the one reply that’s even vaguely attempted to answer the question.?

Contrary to mboy’s stab at answering (well done for having the courage to take a guess tho ;) ) a minion is not actually all that great a braking tyre, it does however brake very predictably.
For a tyre to have good braking characteristics the first thing it needs is good braking edges, which a minion doesn’t particularly.
A Highroller has better centre braking edges but unfortunately it has weird braking characteristics when braking while cornering or leant over making it want to push outwards.
The Newer Highroller II would offer a far better combination of straightline and cornering braking performance than the old HR or Minion out of the Maxxis DH range.

DO NOT EVER SIT DOWN WHILE BRAKING. the second you sit down you lose proper control of the tyres traction. instead, if you are only able to brake with the rear, shift your weight rearwards and lower as you brake to allow you to get more traction without locking up.. moving your body weight is equally as important as actual brake lever control and power.

I do agree with mboy in that your best bet is to run a very powerful front brake preferably with a short lever throw that can be set-up to bite v. close to the bars. (without knowing more about your particular condition) generally speaking we have more strength in our braking fingers the less stretched out they are at the brakes bite point. this also allows the non-braking fingers to hold onto the grips better while braking giving less hand fatigue.

Sweet! I’m going to ask my neighbour when this is gonna be ready.

What makes you think it’s nipples?

Mavic rims used to always have the insert that’s used to align the rim for welding come loose inside and rattle around.

Gary would have won Senior on pretty much any bike.

mildly interesting, fairly confusing and wildly irrelevant!
Just in from the pub, aye?

chipps, how did you get on at the No Fuss DH endurance event? is there a write up somewhere online?

most people were at the scottish crit champs today i suspect.

:lol:

i ride from home with no helmet or drinks or spares, all the time.
i just take my mobile, just in case i have to phone my mrs to rescue me.and some money for the pub

+1
lucky enough to have at least 40miles of singletrack within a 3mile radius.

plenty reasons shaley

weight
price
reliability
durability
chain length requirement
gear range (1x 10 = not enough, 2x 10 = too much)
maintenance frequency

being just some of them

it’s always worth taking your bike. ;)

You haven’t said what types of biking you prefer.

2.5 dual ply DH tyres?
try 28psi front, 30 rear (if you can feel either tyre fold in turns up the pressure 2psi at a time til you’re happy).

I’d recommend right around the same pressures for her. (narrower tyres with lighter sidewalls require higher pressures)

what size tyres?

40psi sounds about right for a 2″ wide rear tyre at your weight but you can almost always get away with slightly less pressure in the front.

that’s a copy and paste from another forum.

I personally wouldn’t touch 10 speed for an mtb

how does a brand new product hold up? you might want to wait a little longer to get a better idea

” uk prices and weights for both saint and zee

Saint:
Brakes, £195 (302g, rear hose, calliper and lever)
Rotors, £65 (203mm splined only. 173g)
Chainset £230-£240 (68.73 or 83mm. 919g or 931g)
MX-80 Pedal, £60
Rear mech, £140 (280g)
Shifter, £50 (123g, 114g i-spec)
Front hub, £70 (32 or 36h, 20mm. 216g)
Rear hub, £120 (32 or 36, 150×12, 142×12, 135×12 or 135×10. 355g for 135×10)

Zee:
Rear mech, £70 (no adjustable angle and no bump stop. 250g)
Rear shifter, £35 (no multi-release)
Chainset, £110 (68/73 or 83mm, with 38tooth ring. 906 or 938g)
Brakes, £145 (311g front, hose, calliper, lever, pads)
Front hub, £45 (32 or 36h, 20mm. 228g)
Rear hub, £55 (32 or 36, 150×12. 363g) – £50 (32 or 36, 142×12, 135×12 or 135×10. 350g)”

crazy idea but you could always ask around at your local park

Well it’s clear to me that he has an absolutely massive set of marriage tackle

That’s a load of balls

8)

If you’re riding very steep ups and downs it can make sense as well

:? –

you can get further onto the nose for the climbs

No you can’t!

and the angle’s irrelevant when you’re descending as you’re standing up.

No it isn’t! there’s a very good reason why almost every DH bike’s saddle is angled nose up?

Huge tackle seems the only sensible answer so far

wouldn’t have thought venting would do much at indoor skatepark speeds.
prob be a better bet to ask on a BMX forum.

if you’re just wanting one for looks don’t wear one, helmetless BMX always looks better.

hmm.. cheers, will need to get round to trying it one day (the gondola is just too distracting ;) )

never even seen Nessie in the flesh. looks like one of those pretty easy features mincers love to clip clop down in their disco slippers in vids/pics. 8)

Yes, perhaps. I’m just interested in why tho Ian.

I wouldn’t! Flows are noticably flexy compared to 721s (especially on a hardtail) lighter weight but construction with similar material can do that.
it’s good we’re not all the same, eh? ;)

Cheers!

I’d just rip all the signs down and replace them with a massive one at the entrance that said
“use common sense or **** off!”

Ps. never ever ridden the graded XC routes at Nevis, are they any good? how do they compare to other trail centres?

Genuinely wondered who grades trails, and how. You seem the best qualiied person to ask (on this thread) ;)

so one bearing has play so def on it’s way out but you can’t detect play checking by hand but you can’t understand how it creaks with the weight of a grown man standing on the pedals? :?

if the creak bothers you stop fannying around and fit a new BB cup.

Thanks gee.
can you explain what’s not daft about them to me now please?

chainline – what’s with the daft nose down saddle angles?

narrower rims will change a larger tyres profile to a more rounded shape. and you run a higher risk of folding the sidewalls or rolling the tyre off the rim if running lower pressures.

The red’s not supposed to be a dh track though,

fair enough, it’s shite on a DH bike.

it’s graded as a red XC track that just happens to have a lift.

Who graded it red? :?

the DH track is pretty much one line for decent DH rider/racers. try to learn the track (especially from the end of the last boardwalk to the woods.). there are a few sections you need to commit to your line so for these it is worth stopping and picking the lines you think suit your ability and speed, learning where the turns and drops are will allow you to brake drag way less and the less you brake on your first run the less arm pump you’ll suffer for the whole day. also try to brake less if it’s wet if you can, the DH track’s actually quite a bit grippier and slightly slower rolling when damp.
You get a good view of the track from the gondola to see what you’re in for but to really learn it I’d recommend walking the track first if you have time. (same goes for any DH track TBF)

Personally I don’t think DH tracks should be graded at all.

but I’m a grumpy old ****.

you don’t need BIG tyres but dual plys are a good idea

I hate tubeless and drill my flows out to take normal tube valves.

719s are prob a better width for larger tyre widths than 717s either wll work tho.

I agree with your sentiment Hora, actual content, not so much

gloves are pointless and uncomfortable.

paying £150 for an XC helmet is for nothing more than to make a statement. it still looks bloody stupid as all bike helmets do.

if you really must wear a polystyrene box on your head go to ASDA or TECO with a tenner and get something which still passes all the safety standards the POC does.. if you are worried about looking poor tape 15 tenners to it.