Mine are on a DJ bike I use as an allrounder so lots of jumping, am about 14st and use 155 pos, slightly less neg. Quickish rebound, FG off.
They use the full 100mm but never bottom harshly

Forward (riding) foot is NOT always the same as your left/right handedness.

If you can’t cope with being WRONG maybe try to refrain from typing out stuff you have no clue about?
😉

Njee is wrong.

Kudos, how so?
your rearward foot is generally slightly lower than the leading one (or should be) and dropping your rear foot is always quicker (because of the freewheel mechanism)

Nothing to do with being left or right handed. You ‘should’ turn away from your natural leading foot better than the other way brcause your hips ate already facing that way.
as for spins, your trailing foot pushes you dictating whether clockwise or anti is eadier.
there are exceptions to these rules but they’re freakishly uncommon.

Islabike pride is a wonderfull thing. 😀
I have a ten quid wooden balancebike here that is 9 years old has been used by about 12 kids and lived it’s entire life outside in all weathers. The original wheel bearings are almost seized now but bang some new ones in and it’ll be good to go for another few years

Agree with ads. Anything that fits will do just fine.

No such thing as a strong & light tyre really I’m affraid.
Spesh tyres are a reasonable weight, fairly tough and reasonably priced IMO

Ps. might help if you actually said what bike you have

wanna buy a DH bike? I’ll throw in some armour and a full face/goggles

why not leave the steerer long enough to fit another (shorter) stem above the roadie one and fit some flat/low riser bars.
Best of both worlds 😉

All rims are disposable items IMO
729s weigh shit loads and are not massively stronger than 721s, infact I always thought they dinged easier and were no stronger when it came to flatspotting and cracking (my spare DH wheels were often 729s)

Haven’t looked at WTB rims in a while but they used to have a rim in the same category/size/weight as pretty much everything Mavic did (other than tubeless) in use I always found WTBs Speed disc (DH and FR) rims to be similar to their Mavic equivalent for durability in both dent resistance and bending (Mavics crack easier tho).

721s
– been using them since they were called 521s and used their predecessor the 121 before that.
I do use a Flow on the rear of my hardtail but drilled it out to run shrader tubes as I can’t get away with tubeless on the rear (don’t really get away with it on the front either if I’m honest, I can’t run less than 32psi on the front tubeless with an 823 on the DH bike with a 3C dual ply without burping and running the risk of rolling the tyre off and even at that pressure I still occasionally burp it).
I’m happy with the weight to strength of 721s even for XC and notice the difference in striffness between Flows and 721s instantly.

My comment about them not being worth the money is because there’s nothing special about the manufacturing process compared to any other non tubeless rim. With mavic tubeless rims I can understand the higher price

Is that Keiths excuse for most Bontrager kit being weak and shit.? ^^

flows are no way worth 60 quid, are they no longer cheaper if bought pre-built into hope hoops? I’d go that route or S/H irf you really want them.

She could have simply called the series “shit art”

No worries.

You can simply play around with the spacers on the steerer to find what bar height suits you. Tall crowns can be run low just make sure you protect tthe top tube from damage from it. An old set of grips stretched over the crown should help. You can allways pick up a SH flat crown later.

Boxxers aren’t an overly tall fork and you’re not short yourself so you should’t need to follow the flat bar fashion of a few seasons back in DH

Is the 8 seater Tally’s car? If so it has 8 seats ie. Can uplift 7 passengers, no?

Ironhorse SGS DH with 888s – complete but been in storage for years and needs rebuilt

Eh? Is this just for noobs?
I must’ve quite litetally had thousands of crashes over the years. Lots of broken and dislocated bones, surgery, more scars than I can counnt and broken every part of a bike at some point, trashed thousands of pounds worth of clothing along the way, astonishingly I’ve only been off work once due to a biking accident but it was for 8mths and even then I worked a full shift before dtiving myself to hospital.

Yeah, I do
I’m also 5’11 and have springs for a lighter rider,

Do you have an Email addy?4

Though it was aright, wouldn’t be in any hurry to watch it again myself

What height are you HS?

Why can’t he simply wind the Uturn down so it matches the length of a rev spring assembly? Granted it might not give as much travel if the new spring bottoms earlier.

Nope, it’s a wee bit over 4. It is still a DJ frame afterall.

Rickos – STPs came in 2 sizes, (I ride the smaller as I like shory DJ style bikes) the larger of the two is an inch longer with a 15″seat tube.
@5’11” and 32″ inside leg (never worn M&S tho) I just manage full pedalling ext (for flats) woith a 410 post. I do however run it slammed mist of the time with the saddle tilted back DJ style – thus actually helps with climbing too as at full ext I can perch on the nose to ge better ext and weight forward ffor steeper climbs without having to stand up. I will always put up with a compromised set-up for XC to allow my bike to jump well and descend nicely tho.

How tall are you and what inside leg?

Measuring unsagged makes much more sense to me.

As soon as I read a geometry chart of a sagged bike my brain automatically converts the fork lenght to compensate. Ie. 160 @ 25% = 120 and it’s a PITA if I’m honest.
While riding, sag is not a static measurement (or even an accurate average measurement) and I don’t run anywhere near 25% sag so I have to work with static unsagged numbers before the rest makes sense.

Would you measure full sus geometry sagged too?
That would be a massive headache for me as I run around 15-20% sag front and 35-45% rear but know what static geometry I like/suits me.

When were you up?Sorry, been kicked off here for a break quite a bit recently. 😳 did you rride both sides of the valley?

Dunno when I’ll get a chance to get to your neck of the world again tbh but I’d be well up for being shown teh gnar when I do.

Will check out yer vid later 😉

You measure BB height sagged? May I ask why?

Just one?

Carerra blasts are pretty decent and great vfm but have you emailed Orange before you make the mistake of excluding your own kids from the sweary club vids/rides?

Spesh and Scott do v good kids bikes if you wanna spend more.
I’d prob avoid Isla if they take after dad 😉

😆 Cheers for pointing that out SM2, BBs lower on an STP too

Hmmmm…

intrigued by your response, care to elaborate?

HO… there is a HUGE difference between a hardtai frame to which you can INSTALL a long travel fork, and a hardtail frame which is a hardtail frame which is DESIGNED for a long travel fork. DESIGNED for a long trave DESIGNED for a long trave fork.

Funny you should use a Bfe to justify your statement messiah. An XS Bfe has *very close geometry to my small STP when fitted with a 100mm fork. Both frames ride shit with a long fork IMHO

*Bfe’s stays being half inch longer

I do have experience but nothing I’d share here, sorry.

Totally agree with Al
Do you know any other single parents/divorcees who may be able to recomend someone with experience in similar messed up custody cases?

Bone dry here as usual

“If you wanna faaakin paaass..”

Couldn’t agree more 😉

Now that IS unacceptable 😯