from the Dirt report it sounds more like she rode into the car.

your linky no worky
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12000

that looks like it’d wobble about a bit, does it?
also from my experience with my previous HID set-up the light being mounted raised exadurates the feeling of the extra weight as you move your head around

Had an HID mounted via the Dual lock before which was heavier with a far higher centre of gravity. – don’t even notice the P7 in comparison

To be fair I worked in a bike shop that bought and sold S/H bikes for a fair few years and just couldn’t say no to a bargain. most of them I eventually sold on for more than I paid. Back then I rode a stupid amount.

Colnago kid, Who cares how far you rode, did you enjoy it? Coz that’s all that matters ot me.

Oh. forgot to add, currently have 7 of my own and 11 kids bikes

I’ve had well over 100 bikes since 1992ish plus about another 10 or so when I was a kid.
no way I’m listing them all tho.
most I ever had at one time was 14 all stored in my bedroom in a Tenement flat.

lightman, Thanks for the suggestions. I can now whack it pretty hard and it doesn’t flinch. before I tightened the emitter it changed mode if I shook it really hard

Drillski – You STAR!!! :0D

Thanks!!

the emitter wasn’t screwed in at all, now it is, it’s fine. – it’s only screwed in about a single turn, eh?

I’m not too worried about it happening on the bars TBH, I’d just quite like to make sure it can’t happen on my head.

I’ll only ever be using the bar mount on the Roadbike.

Ta Snaps.

I’ll read that later.

off out on the bike now while it’s sunny :O)

without the "scaremongering" can anyone explain what happens to these Batteries when they "vent"?

learn to read MrNutt. ;oP
the charger went bang! not the battery.
ambiguously titled to get noticed and hopefully replies ;o)

oh, will the battery have died too?

smoke def came from charger, opened it up and the circuit board’s black (burnt) all over the mains plug socket end

a Ti frame isn’t going to suddenly make you a man!!

tips for rock gardens on hardtails, pick a line that allows you to pump, manual & jump your way through, also the faster you hit it the smoother it will be. oh, and Stand TFU.

He still has part of my childhood, sent him my best picture ever! they never even showed it in the Gallery, should have lied about my age ;o)

RIP Tony, morph will continue the legacy :o)

or go straight on instead of taking the first right hander on the Blue and take the slighly more natural way to Deliverance ;o)

for a Vaguely described random MTB race, F*** all!!
for a race I actually wanted to do, upto around £200.

Wouldn’t be interested in freebies either especially pint glasses since they are free anyway. ;oP

Ice on the fireroad up was indeed mental this weekend, I could hardly stand on parts of it, the road was closed and there was a worry about how anyone could be rescued if an accident happened. we rode mainly natural trails rather than the manmade stuff and on the climbs pushed up a lot more than rode. anything above the buzzards (freeride) car park was a skating rink

Wallride being closed is probably more to do with ice on the trail rather than people going over the top. a couple of weeks ago we were at it and it was total carnage, not so much from people "getting off" on the wall ride as from decking it trying to pedal on the berms – I hit the deck on the run in to the step-up next to the second wallride from my wheels simply slipping out on the iced over camber.

if it’s icy, go to inners and ride the proper DH tracks (not make or brake/caddonbank etc.), they’re always ridable no matter how cold, icy, snowwy, wet it is.

;o)

outer, where would the inner edge be? :o/

I can’t ride without one – although my injury wasn’t my ankle it was my foot (smashed). – nearly a year in plaster, couple of years of physio and still gives me greif. it’s luck that the 661 brace works so well TBH (combined with Ibuprofen) – think the strapping sounds far more appropriate for your injury too.

you’ll find it in a fish shop (the live one’s in tanks rather than the deep fried or freshly caught varieties)

BTW – forgot to add, that powder coat cost me £20 IIRC.

No way I’d ever pay Argos prices for paint

Sorry, I’ll re-word that ;o)

would it be possible for us to drill a hole in the adapter to mount a suitable QR handlebar mount?

could you not just drill a hole in the adapter to bolt it to an existing QR Handle bar mount like this?:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=6091

thought the powder coat was stove enamelled

Powder coating (done well) is very very tough. I had a DH bike frame done back in 1999 and although I’ve long since sold it, I still regularly see it at races (with it’s 3rd owner), there are deep gouges on the frame from uplifts and a few dents from crashes but none of the damage goes through to the metal, when I sold it, it must have been on 500+ uplift trucks/lorries/trailers and the guy I sold it to raced the entire NPS, SDA etc on it for around 3 years so must have done at least a similar amount of uplifts with it as I did.

Steveh – that’s a light Sunday, what’s your build spec?

only bike I Have under 30lb is my roadbike.

Roadbike 23
BMX 30
Hardtail 31
Mini DH 37
DH 42
other DH 49

only weighed on bathroom scales so dunno how accurate they are

a sub 30lb Heckler with strong rims sounds entirely feasable to me

Any £10 Casio will last way longer than 13years

Coffeeking – if you still fancy one (Tallifer) a mate has one sat doing nothing I’m pretty sure he’d part with

one mans “thrill” is another mans “comfort zone”.

plenty riders can pull amazing shit on bikes virtually effortlessly and it’s not often to “wow others” IME

I HATE “mountain bike rambling”! it’s a lot of effort for absolutely zero fun! – sitting around on bikes chilling out and talking shit is good though.

They sound perfect then!
Why would you want lots of free movement at the lever before the pads make contact?
simply move the lever adjust screw until the bite point is where is comfortable for your hands.

I take it your juicy’s are pretty new? – after a while they all develop (annoying) slop/play at the pivot and in the lever piston rod – it causes no real problem and most folk just put up with it so rather than getting a new lever bushing kit just leave them and it will give you more lever throw before they contact. (did that make sense? :?)

junkyard – that will make them pretty inconsistent and prone to overheating problems.

just set the levers closer to your bars and learn to pull gently on them. (What size rotors do you have? – sounds like your brakes may be more powerful than you really need TBH)

I only payed £140 last year for a set of 2008 7s (203mm rotors) from Merlin.
So personally I wouldn’t spend over £100 for a S/H set.

if someone wants them in 203mm (F&R) I’d be interested in one 185mm rotor and rear adapter to go with it.

just use this mount.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15642

Fairy muff!!

What I’m getting at is more.. er.. what sort of level of dirtjumping are you talking about, your riding style/traits and what you weigh would be helpful too (even your height for that matter).
you’re a beginner so I’m guessing small stuff to start with but being a beginner you may be pretty harsh on kit until you become smooth and even once you do get to a decent standard if you are riding decent sized trails you may need something that’s gonna be able to survive multiple bails.
for instance a lot of DJ riders perfer steel bars to Alloy.
tyres depend on the trail surface but generally something with a smoothish tread for proper ‘dirt’
I’d get a strong seat and a post with a reliable clamp (actual post strength is not majorly important as it’ll be slammed into the frame)
strong cranks (especially if you are harsh/heavy)
single speed is a good idea if you ride the same spots a lot and will cost you a lot less in repair bills in the long run.
What frame, fork and wheels have you gone for?

Would it not make more sense to ask your mates?
afterall they know the trails/you

that’s a sh1t load to spend for “deciding to have a go”.

8O

This is a hardtail you’re on about, aye?

run a larger front tyre than rear
run less sag in the fork. (stiffer spring/higher air perssure rather than more pre-load)
use a taller stack lower headset cup.

if it’s a full sus, running more rear Sag would lower your BB and slack it out too.