That’s kinda along the lines of what i’m saying here Chief.
BB – Steerer axis is the most important measurement for frame fit, reach and stack is just a much more complicated way of tieing these two parts of the frame together. I’d like to see anyone make it work accurately with a tape measure to their bike in the real world let alone a bare frame.

eff (or imaginary) measurements are useless in anything other than brochures/magazines and drawings.. Who are they even marketted towards? fairly clueless folk I’d imagine.

Never stray from Shimano QR skewers.. they’re still the only ones around that actually do the job well..
And certainly never use Ti

M1 here too.. sounded like a cowbell over the slightest chatter.. (oranges are pretty bad but not in the same league) having said that Dirt Jumping on a borrowed Orange Missile was the probably scariest tho, the amplification through that downtube from a loose headset cup moving around every pump and landing made me give it back pretty quick.

I could sell you a complete DH bike ready to ride for not a lot of cash

I purposely didn’t mention any measurement involving saddle position as it is massively adjustable (a good few inches fore and aft and over a foot and up and down) on any bike so that measurement doesn’t actually have a great deal to do with how the bike handles..
A bike’s saddle is only there to help with comfort, efficiency (it’s more tiring to stand) and for a third contact point with which to control the bike through weight shift (ie. fine tuning stability and grip) take the most technically skillful areas of cycling as an example and the saddle’s as low and out the way as possible.

Other than tradition, can you explain the meaningfulness of an imaginary horizontal measurement from the (top) centre of the headtube to an imaginary line through the centre of where a straight seatpost would be?

Oh.. and the reason your “rear axle to bars” measurement isn’t very useful is that the riders feet are supported somewhere between the two and exactly where that point is makes all the difference to how the bike handles.

Yes. Reckon I could still podium at a national without training at all.

D – grab a 160mm rotor, bolt it on without asking advice.
I have loads of rotors kicking about tho

A brand new one’ll cost you about a tenner, S/H a fiver

For My road use, yes!

Baaaaaaaaaa… njee

Reading rules makes no difference to how I make choices..
blindly following rules is for folk like njee and al. I prefer reasoned assesment

Funny thing is that contact patch vertically below your rear axle constantly changes as soon as you leave a flat smooth surface, pump, compress or manual. Downtube length doesn’t

Any eff measurement is bollox IMO for this reason.

Downtube length is an accurate constant measurement which ties the two main control points together (steerer axis and BB spindle axis) this one measurement determines where the rider is positioned. Chainstay length, bb height, wheelbase and head angle/fork A-C, together determine how a frame rides before we even think about bar/stem and saddle positions.

compliant with what?

They protect your frame from hose slap I believe. .

Nah, just branding
Google “jagwire tubetops” for what you’re talking about.

I’m using these on my roadbike at present

I don’t think many people workout their wheelbase or their bar position relative to the rear axle or indeed their bar height relative to the ground, but there could well be some value in doing so…

I measure all my bikes by downtube as bar position relative to BB position is the important one..
rear axle to BB (chainstay length) dictates how stable/manouverable the bike is when pivoted around the rear axle so we should all have a preference for this or each style of bike/riding and choose accordingly.
BB height is a similar story and should be a much more important consideration when choosing a frame than it seems to be to most.
rear axle to bar height on it’s own wouldn’t help you much setting up controls between diferent frames. neither will wheelbase (on it’s own)

not fit enough and don’t really see the point in racing when I’d no longer be in with a shout at winning.
don’t really understand paying to ride at events that aren’t races.

I could sort this out easily yuki but in the interest of levelling out karma between us won’t intervene here.
as you were.. 😉

Renton – the answer to my original question to you is “no” then 😉

Max

42 5’11”
like a 22″ TT on a hardtail, 20.75-21 BMX
loads of bikes to choose from, wouldn’t really recommend anything without knowing more details.

Ooooft! 🙁

good to hear he’s recovering well

Yeah, I know what’s littered amongst the heather/peat up there fairly well 😳 .. just meant I couldn’t see the exact point he’d have been lying

if I see someone down and there are already several people helping I’m not sure if more people stopping really adds anything to the situation.

So you’d just ride past without even asking? 🙁

Don’t see the rocks you mean at 2:36 but there’s no way you could have missed a rider down anywhere around there.

legend – Member

You’re right to call him a prick though Shhhh…. he thinks it’s a “persona” 8)

😆

No need for such rudeness!!
I was there yesterday too Bob (and No, I’ve never ever ridden past an injured rider without asking/seeing if they were alright and offering help)

You read the form? 😯

Good to hear you’re enjoying it.

last “what bike/tyres for?” threads I read were started by you BTW 😉

s’pose we can’t all have a nice tight scrotum. 😉

lol

he lost his front wheel both times because he was riding outwith his limits.

totally disagree with Cynic-Al’s preposterous question tho. Where would the fun be in riding within your limits all the time?

a 6 day stay in hospital for a cut face and slight concussion? 😯
how badly did he cut his face?

head out now instead of worrying about de-greasing your chain 8)

To be fair, the OPs original question was utterly pointless too. I’d wager anyone who’s replled to this thread has only done so through boredom.

GW- sounds fairly different then tbh

Why? because of the BB height raise I mentioned from fitting a longer fork?
there are plenty DJ frames around with sub 12″ BB heights, a DJ frame with a low BB would work out fairly similar.

I CBA finding one for you tho

(a single 5mm spacer between headset and stem)

This helpful gem means absolutely nothing on it’s own.
ie. we have no idea of fork length, headtube length, headset stack, bar/stem rise or BB height. or more importantly rider size..

Renton – you’re the guy who put up loads of posts of your new Bfe with a rather pointless XC build aren’t you? think you need to decide what kind of riding you actually want to do before you ask advice on setting it up..

independently of each other, unless we’re talking about my roadbike.

Bars and levers set to the optimum height, width, angle for riding while stood up.
saddle height is adjusted for the terrain/gradient but run at a dirtjump angle as that’s what I want all mtbs to handle like, it also allows me to perch on the nose higher wile climbing and get off the back easier on the odd occasion it’s still up on anything interesting/fun.

NW – check out almost any cheap cromo DJ frame (pay attn to TT lengths tho), stick a silly long fork on it and other than a higher BB it will actually be fairly similar in Geom.

So should I be looking for something aluminium with 100mm forks and the saddle slammed? On second thoughts I couldn’t handle something like that.

😆
How bored were you when you started this thread?

Moon on a stick indeed

Luckily I have a rather long stick 😉

I happen to have a stash of brand new 2.35 Dual Ply Maxxis Bing Blings in 60a compound – the fastest rolling dual plys worth having, not quite a semi slick but very low centre tread knobs, hook up great in a straight line, never clog with mud due to their low centre knob height and spacing, drift better than any other but have the same side knobs as a minion DHF so rail corners brilliantly once leant over.
a Bling Bling was the tyre Gwin won the Petermaritzburg WC (with the mega flat long pedalling section in the middle) on last year

Maxxis decided to discontinue these tyres a few years back and I love them so much I bought as many as I could find.. I’d be prepared to part with a set, but only for somewhere close to full RRP

you’re other option may be to try finding a Highroller semi slick dual ply (not quite so moon on a stick, but not anywere near as nice characteristics as an all-rounder)
or go with a rounder profile Dual ply Larsen TT or Crossmax (both still available AFAIK but neither quite so good when conditions get damper)

Now hitting the ‘rebellious’ bit:
Bike in hallway: check.
Chilli & nice beers for tea: check.
Not done washing up or made bed: check.
Growing beard (it is going well for 3 days growth): check.
Downloading America’s Armies for some online gaming fun: check.

What else to do?*
.Crazy !!!

Maybe stay up past 11, it is Friday night after all

Was that designed by Cotic or Charge? ^^