The Titus Roadrunner from PX looks really good and has a lifetime frame warranty, the tyre clearance you want and the ability to run proper mudguards.

It was on special recently at around £1700 with SRAM Force 1x. If the stack was higher I’d have bought one and rebuilt it 2x, selling most (nearly all actually) of the new bits attached to the titanium frame. Some swapping around of bits and a little eBay action would have yielded a really good value Ti all-season rough roadie.

Road disc is silly for a fair weather only bike IMHO, but yeah for winter/all seasons use it’s worth the extra weight, complexity, spoke offset issues…

I currently ride an Equilibrium Disc on old MTB 29er QR disc wheels with 28mm tyres and proper mudguards and it’s pretty great actually. It’s heavy but rides sweetly. It fits me better than a Roadrunner would, otherwise I’d definitely have gone for one.

My summer bike is a Domane SLR rim brake and it’s superb. Older Roubaix’s are excellent too, SL3/SL4 era, they ride better than the newer ones IME and bikes don’t actually get significantly better than that. But if you do a lot of dirty wet weather riding it’s worth getting discs, and Ti will brush off shitty conditions better than any other material.

I have a similar chainset on a 113mm BB on my Genesis Equilibrium. Still plenty of chainring clearance. You may be ok with a 104mm axle, but depends on how wide your chainstays are.

IME, chain line doesn’t really matter as long as you’re in the ballpark since you generally use the larger half of the cassette with the inner ring and vice versa.

All sorted, big thanks to DrP and all of you other top Sussex dudes ✌️

Absolutely top peeps on here.

Haha thank you all of you STW legends. Much appreciated. DrP is helping me out but can’t thank you all enough for wanting to help. Great community 🙂

Fantastic bro!! Thanks! Can I pop over tomorrow and grab it? Do you like beer?

Thanks 👍

Camelbak.

And if more storage needed, either an old bottle or a bottle cage case thingy (planetx sell EVA ones for like 99p).

They’ll give similar results, with the voice memo using way less battery obviously.

I’m a musician and have had mixed results from iPhone recording… it kinda takes an average of everything it hears and compresses it. Much like a human ear, it works pretty darn well when the live volume levels aren’t ridiculously loud and there isn’t much ambient noise. Listening through earphones is essential to hear what you captured.

Remember to use the same gauge for some consistency as 35psi on your gauge may well be 40psi on mine.

It very much depends on tire/rim width/volume and riding style but if you’re ever feeling the tyre bottom out and the rim get a impact you’re running too low.

Start at something like 40psi, monitor how it rides and then adjust from there to suit. I honestly find a fair bit above the “bottoming” pressure works best as you have nice cushioning, good grip and minimised squirming.

Yo mboy! How’s the ride? And how’s the sizing? Is there cable guides for a front mech? I’m thinking about doing much like what you’ve done and swapping a load of bits around…

It looks like a sweet frame for sure.

Happy new year! 🙂

Twonks – exactly, that’s part of my case too. But so far the council just avoid the fact that it must have been reclassified as dangerous so repaired straight away, they just stick to the fact that it was arranged to be repaired within 5 days and it duly was.

The loss of Ralph really puts how serious this is into perspective, something really needs to be done on a consistent and national level 😥

Ti Red… I’m so sorry 😢 Literally crying now for Ralph, his family, you and his friends. My sincere condolences 😥

Hey thanks again all for your replies!

Jakester that’s exactly what I need, thanks.

I’ve already claimed and have been rejected. Council say they identified the pothole the day before I hit it, and assessed it as not dangerous so marked it for repair within 5 days as per their policy so aren’t liable.

My argument is that the size and location of the hole renders it dangerous to cyclists, so they should’ve repaired it same day or at least put an advance warning sign up.

The policeman attending considered the hole a threat to life and put a warning sign in place and ordered an immediate repair, which the council carried out… although if the council acted sensibly the day before with a sign or a repair, the incident wouldn’t have happened. So stupid to delay a repair to a dangerous defect. I’m lucky to not have been thrown off the bike in to traffic. They really don’t care about us kids! 🙁

MoreCash – thanks I’ll check out BC too

Hey guys thanks for the replies 🙂

Willard – I’m fine, sore wrists from the impact through the bars but I managed to stay on, using my MTB skills on the roadie. Frame got a HUGE crack from the impact, fork too, wheels dinged/tyres blown. I’ll check your link, thank you.

addy – thanks I’ll check it out!

rbs365 – sounds like you have the experience to assess! I’m knee deep in the law and the councils policy etc and am fine with all that, I just need a pros description on the condition, potential for worsening and wether it’d be considered dangerous or not. Can I email you some pictures? My dimensions are in centimetres by the way, 15cm deep, not 15mm :-/

Thank you! 🙂

It’s also often worth replacing the spring kit too as they play a significant part in alignment/efficiency and can lose tension over the years.

But it looks very much like a case of bad adjustment here, so as has been said, back the cable tension right off, adjust the shoes manually in the drum to almost touching, then adjust the cables to touch and back off a bit so you get good lever travel and a rock solid hold at the drum.

Personally I’d replace the shoes and springs while in there and resurface the drums if there’s any glazing. Obviously brake cleaner on all contact surfaces.

Also worth checking cables aren’t sticking and allowing full pull travel.

Good luck!

I’ve had a keter plastic shed for about 10 years and it’s still good, zero maintenance done, really easy to build etc.

Wood probably better but needs maintenance to keep it good and make it last.

As I said, it’s first world problems, yeah it’s only a bottle, but maybe there’ll be some info on this thread that’ll help someone with a bigger ticket item.

It’s not been left in the sun or window sill, just had normal use in all seasons (mainly summer though), and way less use than my £1 Trek bottle that is over 15 years old and still fine.

My point is it’s either a design fault in speccing that plastic or a fault with the plastic itself (possible bad batch). It should last 15 years, my £1 Trek one has? Same conditions, same user. And using the term lifetime is misleading, especially as CRC have now quantified that as 2 years. Just say 2 years in the first place.

Contacted distributor, they said go to retailer. Contacted CRC, they said it’s 2 years sorry bye.

Still living/riding ok, drinking from my Trek and Elite bottles.

Cheers guys.

I think there’s a case, especially as they’ve now actually quantified it and my 15+ year old “inferior” bottles that cost a fraction of the price are still fine in comparison.

The cycling community should be looking out for each other, not duping. Especially at Camelbak’s relative prices! If it’s 2 years, say so, don’t say lifetime. It’s stupid and misleading.

Collection sales are protected by eBay for the seller… the buyer has the chance to inspect before paying so has no comeback.

BUT

Paypal is awful… if the buyer makes a chargeback through his credit card, Paypal will take your money back.

Legally, you’d still be in the right to your money as item is sold as seen and collected etc but you’d have to take him to court to try and get any chargebacked money back.

Though you’d probably be fine, I’d prefer cash/bank transfer myself. Paypal can often be a source of silly problems.

Cheers Andy, not much on there I can use bar the small new customer ones, will keep looking/searching 🙂

I’ve used them, very good bar some damage from careless packaging which they duly sorted out. I’d recommend!

Thanks for the replies guys, better play it safe and get axle and caps I think

Thanks, looks like I need an axle and end caps.

Anyone got a 135mm QR Pro II axle with end caps for sale?

Cheers 🙂

You can buy stick on cable “bosses”, they work great for a dropper cable or brake line

Damn! Should’ve handed it in to the bank and bagged a potential tenner, will remember that for next time 🙂

I resisted in case it was a fellow MTBer. If I could be sure it was a rambler I’d have bought him a bike!

Re-united 🙂

That’s terrible! Not what I’d expect from a “local” traditional firm like Hope 🙁

Mine is 36 teeth.

Will try ison, cheers 🙂

Hey swirly

That novatec one looks very similar but not sure if the Stans/Halo/Planet X Rattlesnake hubs are novatecs?

As for your quandary what did hope say? Surely they’d help you out or supply one – buying one off the shelf would surely be less than machining a one off.

Best of luck with yours mate and I’ll keep looking/asking! 🙂

Thanks dude! 🙂

I think the grip is supposed to be a bit like CTD but infinitely adjustable between open and closed

Evolutionary improvement with each revision?

I’ve used later spesh defrosters and older NW arctics and both very good with warm sockage. Spesh better for wide feet, NW stiffer and less cumbersome

I’d heli tape the cable rub areas and the chainstay if I were you… Titanium is not invincible against a steel chain and steel cables!

Onyx hubs are excellent though if any consolation

Listen to scotroutes.

If I had 1 x 10 I’d upgrade to 3 x 9

Haha cheers guys, martyn – sounds bad!!

So sorry to hear man, so many scumbags about

Zntrx – I logged in and it worked, thanks!!! 🙂