Continued… Swinley/wales/surrey(mostly)/Chilterns. Not one puncture. So I would only go tubeless if the ride quality at the same pressures was better…. Is it? Having come from road I know that tubs ‘feel’ better than clinchers, is it a similar difference? Otherwise I don’t see the point. At all.

So my earlier post was tongue in cheek, but here’s my two cents worth:
I have always used tubes, and although curious I probably always will. I have had zero punctures (kiss of death) in 10 years. 63kgs. Always run 25/28psi, normally a magic Mary front/chunky monkey in the summer and a nobby nic rear. I ride hard, most of the time

So my earlier post was tongue in cheek, but here’s my two cents worth:
I have always used tubes, and although curious I probably always will. I have had zero punctures (kiss of death) in 10 years. 63kgs. Always run 25/28psi, normally a magic Mary front/chunky monkey in the summer and a nobby nic rear. I ride hard, most of the time

Tubeless. Another solution to a problem that didn’t exist.

dannyh

You may well be right. I swore never to ride a FS bike again after riding the 456EVO at BPW and feeling faster than I ever did on my mondraker foxy.. With twice the fun. Shame as I could never replicate that feeling on the 650b.

So basically exactly what dannyh said..

Just retired my 45650b after a year. Liked it but never loved it, always felt high on it. I got one as I had some of my best ever runs on a 456evo2 26inch, that was amazing. I built the 650b exactly the same with 150mm revs but it wasn’t half the bike. Couldn’t ever put my finger on it but the evo just felt better in every aspect. Wheel size ain’t everything obviously..

Haha 3 answers, all of them different. Great! :D

OK thanks for the info. Will leave it alone. Shame

Go on strava segment explorer and zoom in to headley lane.. You’ll find all the good stuff above it

Some great trails in the woods the other side of headley lane. Then up to top of box from the car park on the lane. At the top you can go left away from cafe and ride along about a mile. Cut off road right some more naughty trails on back of box overlooking Dorking. Back up to cafe, bomb down the fast grassy hill to the bottom of the zig zags then over to ranmore via the vineyard. Sawmill etc. Loads of good up there

Continuity.. Well said.

Sorry mickr but I’m not sure I get your drift. Just because some people have bought disc brake equipped road bikes doesn’t mean they should be allowed by BC.

All will stop you adequately. Therefore lightest weight wins.

Crosshair exactly, no valid reason to use them in racing situations (which is what this thread is about), but lots of reasons not to (albeit anecdotal). Don’t get me wrong I ride slx discs on my trail bike and think they’re amazing, just no need on a race bike.

Having been a 2nd cat the past few years and therefore competed in my fair share of road/circuit/crit races I’m saying no need whatsoever for discs on a road bike. Ever. Better braking performance equals increased danger in racing. Solo/training rides fine. Don’t believe me?.. Go to Hillingdon/palace and race.. You’ll soon work it out

You might not die, but your chances are increased.. From personal experience one broken spoke gives about 20 minutes of riding before wheel implosion.. Quickly becomes way out of true and brake pads rubbing etc. Get it sorted there’s a reason the spokes are equally distributed

Thanks all, very helpful!

Great, thank you all. Looks like brechfa and CYB are a go. Cheers

For what it’s worth.. I have used bitex road hubs laces to h plus son archetype for training in all weathers, and another set to carbon rims for crit/road racing for two seasons. 20000km in all and they are faultless. Smooth, well sealed and easily maintained; not that it has been needed. Top quality gear, although I have no experience of MTB hubs I would imagine good things.

Hi all, thanks for the help. I managed to find the correct race from two seperate suppliers today. FSA themselves were very helpful. I didnt think it would be so complicated, but apparently the tolerances between races and bearings are very fine?!

cheers

nice one, I have emailed them. based on the diagram of the lower bearing and crown race below, is it 36 degrees or 45? I’m confused

thanks for trying, but I need a race to fit 36 degree bearings, otherwise would have gone with hope. Headset only came oem with the reducer race, hence changing the forks has led me to needing a new race.

I have this headset – FSA orbit 1.5 ZS (No 57)
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/290/Orbit-15-ZS—NO-57
• 1.5″ / 1-1/8″ Steerer
• 36°/ 45° ACB
• For tapered 50mm /62mm OD headtube
• Alloy top cap
• Upper: Forged alloy cup with Angular Contact Bearings
• Lower: 1.5″ CNC machined alloy cup with Angular Contact Bearings
• Stack Height 16.9+2.9=19.8mm

On the tech sheet it tells me what crown race i need, but No one seems to have it.

The reason for needing is that I am changing from a reducer crown race to a 1.5″ as I have new tapered forks

Hi all, thanks for the replies. Im going to go 160, but having some issues with the headset. I want a tapered steerer, but the current headset is a 11/8 – 1.5 reducer crown race jobbie to fit straight forks. Any ideas? Ive asked and the answer seems to be as simple as a new crown race. Will any 45 degree bearing crown race fit?

thanks!

Ok thanks mate, I thought this might work. I suppose I can try. Superstar have a similar thing (as bikestore are out of stock), I wonder if this might do the job

Thanks again all. Got a tenner tool and 2 bushings from ebay.. fixed in today and all smooth again! Nice one

Great, thanks for your help. Steve, To be honest I am guessing with regards to the play. Ids there any easy way to check where it is coming from?
LoCo, how do I know what type of bushes to get?!! TFtuned say my shock (ario RL) and frame = 12.7mm bushings, will these fit? What are top hats? Help?!