?! Thank you goodgrief, but I need you to clarify that please. Exactly how do I do that, step by step?

GBR.

OK, thanks for the ideas everyone. I have tried most of them, including cleaning with MUC OFF disc clean I use it after every few rides anyway), although cleaning discs again with meth spirits sounds like a good idea.

Cleaning my removed pads again, and this time also using a bit of sandpaper sounds worth a try too.

Someone (a bike shop that should know better!) suggested that I dab a bit of copper paste on the back face of the pads, to prevent mechanical resonance. I will never do that, because although it sounds like a good idea, such paste will contaminate everything and slowly creep everywhere! (Someone I know did this and learn from the mistake).

Softer Resin pads, yes I have used those before and yes both performance and quietness was very good, except I really do need to keep running sintered pads because: I am slightly big/heavy, plus often carry a modest weight on my back, plus it is winter, plus they last alot longer generally anyway. And also because: I have used Hope sintered pads before, without ANY problems.

Meth spirits and sandpaper it is then guys… thanks!
GBR.

What is my understanding of how these schemes work?
Simply that when you register your bike with them, and purchase an electronic chip card pack (which you then fit internally to the bike somewhere…. presumably a difficult to reach spot inside the frame), that in the event of a theft, this will enable it to be traced with the assistance of “your local police force”. In other words, in much the same way as tracing a stolen mobile phone/sim card etc.

Please don’t shoot the messenger!!! This is exactly what I have directly been told ‘should’ be the case, and the whole point, of using these schemes.

Yet police have directly told me, words to the effect of we do not trace bicycles ever, so don’t bother with such schemes.

Personally, I have lost interest in such schemes, and will prefer using simple old fashion methods… high quality gold level lock, and chase the buggers away if I catch them tempering with my machine!!
(as has happened twice recently!)

Sorry for the delay in replying back guys…

Somerset & Avon police officers have now told me, that they DO NOT actively track or trace any bicycles registered with these schemes. Completely to the contrary of what the antitheft schemes claim!!

It now seems to me, that such schemes are a complete waste of time and money, as at the end of the day, what matters is that your local police force can GUARENTEE that they will trace and return your stolen bike. If police will not even bother to try and trace, as has been suggested to me, what is the point of such schemes? THeives are intelligent and ruthless… they will not be detered just because a sticker ‘claims’ a bike is chip protected!

What a very disappointing chame that yet again, police officers simply do not even bother to co-operate with antitheft schemes!!

Does nobody in power care about actually combatting cycle theft?

So, no experiances or opinions folks?

What a disgusting thing for a school teacher to suggest!! I agree with most long term cyclists here, who say this is yet more typically innaccurate pro-car establishment propaganda! Well done for bringing this to our attention, though I think you should also notify the CTC who are hot on this matter.

Putting all self serving pro-motorist fairy tales to one side, Mr Ried’s writing is correct, to suggest that there is actually no such thing as “Road Tax”. Indeed, actual “Road Tax” was abolished by Winston Churchill about 60 years ago!! Motor vehicle owners today pay a Duty, called Vehicle Excise Duty, which is very rightfully charged and rated proportional to the maximum quantity of air pollution and toxins any one vehicle emits. Therefore cyclists, who pollute zero diddly squat, should never be charged such a duty.

As for the issue of ‘road ownership/upkeep/maintainance/priority users’ blah blah, that issue is very simple too, though motorists find it hard to accept the truth! Since all public highways and roads are maintained from REGULAR TAXES, and not one specific tax pot or fund (a common myth!), all legit british taxpayers equally contribute, and therefore there is NO motorist priority on our roads! The Highway Code (only) is the law that decides who has priority over what, and not who pays VED, or is travelling faster or in larger volumes on roads!

The simple truths of these issues seem to irritate motorists year in year out, but the fact is that many of them simply do not get their technical and legal facts correct. Indeed, if anything, The Highway Code states that cyclists are in general terms, higher priority road users that others must give way to (except for even higher priority users such as horses, emergancy blue light vehicles, or pedestrians).

Contact the cTC about all this, they will be very interested in what this teacher is trying to suggest. Even IF it is designed to provoke challenging questions from the pupils, it is still badly suggestive in the first place, that cyclists ‘dont matter’ on roads.

GBR.

You are right ninfan.

In my native Netherlands they are actually permitted on many mandatory cyclepaths, but not here in the UK! I think mopeds with under 200w are quite unusual, with most ‘small mopeds’ exceeding this output, and thus being illegal on cyclepaths. In the UK, the police do nto seem to care much about them, but you are right to say they are a big problem. They often attract troublemaking chavs with no respect for other people or roadusers. I saw one in Bristol recently hit an old lady on her shopper bike, knocking her off with a minor injury. (The moped got away).

GBR.

The Orange 5 – one of the greatest MTB’s of all time??

I can’t imagine anyone would want to sell one! Off road geometry is perfect!

GBR.

PS: A quick tip for any tourists visiting dutch cities with expensive/quality bikes: ALWAYS use the large security guarded bike parking, found by train stations or large libraries. A nice quality machine will otherwise stand out by a mile, and be stolen no matter how well locked it may be! Esp mountain bikes!

Some bike parking is FREE, some you pay a small fee for, but even if you pay, it is WELL WORTH IT! Theft is quite high there.

GBR.

Ha, well said Graham!
As someone who is living in the UK and UK born, but half dutch (and a frequent visitor to my other motherland), it never failed to amaze me just how many highly automated and car obsessed Brits completely fail to understand the far more healthy culture of the Netherlands, one of their nearest neighbours (and a neighbour with good historical links too)! The bikes shown above are quite typical in larger dutch cities, especially outside train stations and schools, as part of a nation where it is estimated that virtually all of the 18 million dutch population own and use a bike. In the Netherlands, we have plenty of quality recreational bikes around, but yes most are quite cheap and humble commuter bikes for simple commuting around the very high quality cycling infrastructure we have, that every other wealthy nation in the world is trying to copy (yet fail)! There is also alot of bike theft and crime in larger cities, including Amsterdam, Utrecht etc, which is why many everyday people only use “cheap” commutor bikes to get around. Most Dutch young children cycle better than most adults do around europe. Many light goods and children are transported in efficient cargo bikes and bike trailers. The Netherlands government spends approx 15 times more per year every year, than the UK, and even Germany, putting people, their health, and their cultural link with the bicycle, first, before commercial gain from any motor trade!

If only the entire population of the UK owned and used a bike regularly, as the dutch do, it would transform the nation into a far more pleasent, healthy and cost effective nation.

I recently read in two seperate british newspapers, that “the average/most frequent car journey in the UK, is less than 1 mile, and involves carrying children”. I think that is a disgrace on many levels as well as a great shame.

So to answer the original question asked here, No the dutch are not “obsessed” with bikes. They simply practice common sense by the million.

By the way, the motor obsessed UK and Germany feature often in the dutch press!

Tot Zeins!
GBR.

As I said in my first question, I am not concerned with cosmetic looks (I can respray paint). I am concerned with structure and mechanical fatigue developing..?

Does anyone know how thick such 7005 top tubes are? I can’t find any info about them.

GBR.

I often cycle commute, using trains (in South West England).
As a cyclist who has used trains in every european nation except three in eastern europe, I’m sorry to say that our British trains are almost THE worst for cyclists in europe!! I think the UK government has a real nerve to suggest that it is backing the needs of british commuting cyclists, who often need to take bikes on trains. And it would be so easy for most trains to provide one whole bike coach to carry say 30 or 40 bikes, like they used to in the old days before privatisation. There’s plenty of old disused rolling stock still in good condition up to the job! Sorry to moan here, but I know ALOT of local people who would all commute with bikes on trains, encouraging more everyday cycling, if only facilities were much much better with more space.

British commuting cyclists deserve better!!

(this has been a non-political broadcast for the sick-of-suffering-like-sardines-commuting-cyclists-of-bristol-party!!)

I’m not sure about tough as old boots! A steel frame yes, but a softer 7005 frame? A pic will not do what I’m describing justice, as it is the DEPTH into the frame I am concerned about. It’s dug well beyond the paintwork exposing bare metal.

I’m surprised that such a relativaly gentle tap and scrape against an iron post, scraped so deep and so easily!

(My next frame will be definatly steel!)

GBR.

After a tough day, I really hate commuting home on a nice bike, only to then cross paths with some smug envious youngster who blurts out “Eer mate, ‘ow much did that thing costya then?”

Answer too low a price, you will be branded a cheapskate!
Answer too high a price, you will be branded an upperty bike snob!
Fail to answer at all, you might be branded ‘rude’!

The joys of cycling home from a hard days work earning a modest wage…
Tusk! :o)

GBR.

As well as the above tips, new pads time is also a good time to check your pistons are lubed slightly to prevent them ‘sticking’. With pads removed, gently expose about 2-3mm depth of piston by holding back an opposing piston with a blunt/plastic tool. Then gently apply a small amount of a silicon lube (eg, Fork Juice) and let it seep around piston edges. Repeat for other piston. Then ‘reset’ pistons equally by using same tool to ‘push’ them back, before fitting new pads.

Then centre calipers as suggested above. By having lubed pistons at same time with fresh pads, this helps to ensure that new pads will bed in equally and not suffer sticking pistons.

When?
When there is no longer any mechanical or practical benefit in upgrading any one component. In other words, upgrading just for the sake of having yet another brand new product, or higher spec part, that you are not going to benefit from using!

I used to know someone who spent £2600 on a custom build La Pierre hardtail, only to then use it for shopping trips and sunday pub rides only! Whatsthepointinthat?!?!

With that said, one of my personal rules is: buy the highest quality components that you can ‘comfortably’ afford, then make them last.

GBR.

I measure the hole to be 5mm dia. In a 7005 alum frame, at a nasty place where rear wheel water and crud will collect up.

I’m now wondering if a pair of small rubber plugs would be better?? As I say, two good shops advised silicon as “the best way”…

GBR.

By the way… do tools like the one in the picture shown, really work?

GBR.

My rear rotor has always been slightly kinked in one spot. My pistons are centred, my pads brand new, my rotor never hit or ‘knocked’, but have tried several times to straighten the kink with no luck. It always comes back!

Is it possible to simply have a rotor with a manufacturing fault? A poor pressing? For me, it’s only a slight kink, and slackening off the bite point a little works well enough.

GBR.

I’m guessing that pedal grease will not work for long, simply because it will not last in place more than a ride or two?

I’ve bought a small tube of silicon adhesive, but just want to be careful with using it.

Any tips folks?

GBR.

Haha!!

I suppose this is a bit of a sore spot issue for some people, which is understandable! Wheely understandable. Sorry to be a spokes-man on the issue! :o)

My cousin needs no hi-vis clothing… you tend to hear him coming from a mile away with his motormouth! :o)

GBR.

My “ride of the year”? Hmmm let’s see now…

Now that I am approaching ‘old git’ status, I have not ridden as much on trails as I would like to. I did manage to complete a good number of laps at the Bristol Bikefest this summer before my knees started to make more noise than my disc rotors…! Not bad for a old git like me!And on a hardtail too! (For those of you not familiar with Ashton Court near Bristol, it is not hardtail friendly territory).

A favorate ride may not be due to just the route taken…. dare I suggest a beautiful days ride in May around The New Forest when 3 stunning dutch girls who crossed my path at a cafe stop, joined me for the rest of the days ride (being part dutch myself, we all got on very well!). I was beaming all the way around the trails!

One more that stands out for me, was all on tarmac lanes, but it was such great fun to downhill!! I visited East Devon in Sept, and discovered a great zigzagging route from Honiton golf club (summit) all the way to the coast at Beer. It was downhill all the way, with some sudden dips and stunning scenery, it was an eyeopener! Overheated my rotors twice, but it was worth it – especially as I got to do it twice, thanks to a farmer who gave me a lift back to the summit that evening (just for buying his mate a beer!)… it felt more exciting to do in twilight second time..!

GBR.

I will help my mate get a quality rebuild done.

As for my own rear wheel (simular to his), my drive side J bends look slightly scratched but not too bad. It’s a good quality build that has lasted me 6 years so far.

But is there anything I can do to my current J bends to further protect/strengthen them (ie, without rebuilding)?

Mavic EN521 rims, Hope Pro 2 evo hub, DT Swiss Revolution black spokes.
GBR.

Unovolo: Yes, getting all swarf is essential. But this raises my nagging doubt – can crap and grit get IN these bearings via a hole?
I suppose the solution to preventing that, is to fit a small rubber plug (which you can then occassionly remove to drain out the frame? A bit like an oil sump on a car?)

GBR.

Success!! I nearly did not bother to, but I tried your suggestion of swaping the bearings over. It worked! With the previous ‘top’ bearing swapped into the bottom/crown cup, it fitted perfectly, with only a very slight gap (less than 0.5mm? I can live with that!) resulting. The top race is a seal tight fit. It looks like the race that moved from top to crown was very slightly wrong size. Using digital calipers to measure, this race is very slightly too thick/high.

As a purchased (matching?) pair of bearings from Hope, I’m surprised they do not perfectly match exactly, but thankfully my lower/crown cup is slightly more roomy to accomodate.

My steering has never felt smoother and better :o)))

Greenbikerider.

Oh my!! I’ve been cycling for over 30 years, and I never realised mech barrel adjusters could be bought seperately!! DOH!
Thanks Rorschach, and yes the M771 XT is nice.

GBR.

DirtyDog: Great advice and description! Yes, zero play in the J bends is the key I think.

My friend has swarn in an oath to obey my ‘first commandment of cycling’ (as stated above)!

Thanks,

GBR & his mate Colin.

Yes, a 3mm hole sounds good to me too.

I still don’t understand why many manufacturers do not bother to drill such an important hole under the BB?! It’s such a good idea yet they don’t do it.

GBR.

Onzadog: All three washers are fitted just under the top cover. I never really thought about them! If I remove them all, they make little difference – still big gap.
Dave: Bearing is fitted correct way up.
I’ve also tried squeezing the split collar smaller, and even put it in my freezer for a while (in the hope *no pun* it would slightly contract smaller, in case it was not fully bedding down onto race).

I’ll show a local workshop to see what they think.
Simple yet odd problem, eh?
GBR.

Correct, his shifters have no adjusters. I understand he has inferior brand shifters but he says they work fine.

Any other suggestions?

He also says he would buy another used M761 but he can’t find any in good condition.

PS: It’s the combination of a quality top sprung mech WITH a barrel adjuster, that seems to be the rarity here…!

OK point taken :o)
Will drill much larger.
My BB is an external anyway!

GBR.

Thanks everyone for your comments :o)

I agree that my friend has an odd problem to need a third rebuild so soon!!!

By the way, he has NO rear mech probs, it’s limited perfectly.

The wheelbuilder each time is Evans Cycles, I am told. Wheels are not my area of expertise, but for a start, I suspect they are NOT using the good quality spokes they claim to be! I too, find it very odd they are advising my mate that it is “a common problem” that “just happens sometimes”. I suspect they are crap at building wheels, full stop! (I don’t mind admitting myself, that I am no fan of Evans. But until now, assumed their “wheelbuilder expert” is rather crap!)

I just pinged his drive spokes remaining – they are all pitched very differently, suggesting tension chaos has erupted!

My friends rims were brand new 18 months ago, with the first custom wheel build Evans did. I personally don’t think they are part of the problem, just poor building. By the way, I am told that Evans have been ‘checking’ the wheel every 3 months. I’m not clear what spoke tweeking they have done (badly?), but my friend has sworn on oath never to approach them (or Half**ds) again (this is my personal 1st holy ommandment of cycling!), and seek quality workshops instead.

Thanks good people!

Greenbikerider.

OK, so no obvious consequences to doing so?

Neil: I have other breathe holes drilled around my frame, to allow air pressure to ‘breathe’. Are you sure a 1mm hole will block? I’m a bit nervous about drilling too large.

GBR.

OK, thanks guys. Dave, I pretty sure I fitted the bearing right way up, but I will double check tonight.

Otherwise, I will email Hope with a pic. (although it took them 3 weeks to reply, the last time I did!)

GBR.