Yes.

I’ve just got 2 sets of deore 4 pots and an entire 12spd groupset from riding_is_life eBay – all genuine. They have 11spd too I think. Takes a couple weeks to come but in stock

Bump me daddy

Does anyone have any recommendations for insuring bikes without proof of ownership? Most of ours are built with 2nd hand parts accumulated over time so not really any substantive proof. Bikmo apparently accept photos of the bikes but the costs are eyewatering and I’m only really fussed about insuring them from home break ins (seem all too common here in Sheffield)

The zip tie replacement of pro 2 springs – pictures included

Quicker fix than waiting for springs…

I tried that but the end cap seemed too fat to get out of the lockring.

I’ll see if I can find a different lockring and try that instead. Thanks for your help

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-Shimano-GRX-BR-810-BR-RX400-L03A-Sintered-Disc-Brake-Pads

Provided the rotors can take sintered pads. I used these on some RT56 rotors and cooked them very quickly, upgraded to rt66 rotors and it’s been fine.

These pads seem to be the only ones I can find in stock

Following this up, I went ahead and bought some deore brakes, as the page had nearly 1000 positive feedback reviews and figured eBay would help out if they were fake. Arrived today after ordering around 2 weeks ago, and if they’re fake then they’re very good fakes. I’ll fit them tomorrow and see how they are on the bike, but an option to others wanting parts now. As far as customs are aware there was only 1 rotor inside the box they sent me though so maybe a gamble there?

A quick Google shows that trek Roscoe’s and Voodoo zobops do the same thing…

Yeah it’s not very common, until this thread I actually thought it was only Marin who did it on a bike packing/touring thing they released a while back, Sonder Frontiers might be made in the same factory or be rebadged versions of them?

Not sure if that explains it very well. A 141 Qr hub is what you get when you put qr end caps on a boost hub, like when you put QR End caps on a 142×12 hub it becomes 135xQR – reduces hub spacing by 7mm and spindle diameter from 12mm axle to 9mm Qr

Unfortunately it doesn’t quite work like that. If you tried to use the 142mm kit on your non boost hub the 12mm diameter axle would be too wide for the QR dropouts on the frame (hub axle diameter needs to be 9mm)

You’d need a boost hope hub that was 148mmx12 then put QRend caps on to reduce it in to 141xqr, like how putting qr end caps on a 142×12 non boost hub changes the spacing to 135xqr. You could probably space out a non boost hub with a boostinator kit but I think hope only do one for making a non boost hub fit 148×12 thru axle frames.

So it is workable but it would be easier to get a new boost pro4 rather than use the non boost one you already have.

Deore, slx and xt chains in stock at that last one, worthy of a PSA in itself!

£3 max selling fees on eBay this weekend, as if by magic…

Thanks for the tips Yak, may go and do that tonight then!

Interesting insight spoon, might be that if I drop the price a little bit then it’ll be gone quick

You say that there’s a covid tax on 26 bits but the bike I’m trying to sell is 26 and I’m not having much action! The brand’s well loved too…

Maybe I’m being impatient, it might get a bit more attention at the weekend, we’ll see.

Thanks for the advice guys. On 14 FB groups already apparently, maybe I just need to be a bit more patient! Will lower asking price in a few days if nothing coming through I guess

As per the Singletrack tradition of “recommend what you have” I would seriously recommend the RocketMax. Just got it around a month ago and it’s such an amazing bike. Descends better, jumps better, climbs better than the bike it’s replacing, I’m able to keep up with mates I never thought I would be able to now, so it’s objectively quicker if that’s what you’re in to.

Won’t fit the 230×65 I assume you have (out by 2.5mm on the stroke volume), but I’m really impressed by the DB Kitsuma, you’d get a fair chunk for the shock selling it on I’m sure?

They have stock of L and XL in both colours right now so you would def have it by July. I’ve bought a rocketmax full bike and Bfe frame off them recently and they’ve been such lovely people to deal with that in the unlikely event something did go wrong they’d sort you out quickly no bother.

Also you mentioned the weight of the privateer as a con – rocketmax was the lightest of the test bikes in bikeradars bike of the year test as well

You can get brand-x from start fitness cheaper than CRC/wiggle, use code EXTRA10 at checkout for 10% off

Resurrecting this thread to say shoutout to @singlespeedstu – just had a very tough air cap removal from my 36’s but remembered seeing this a while ago, saved me a lot of hassle!

Merlin has SLX 4 pots in stock but for £310. Unless you find some MT501/MT520’s (Merlin had them last week but think I nabbed the last pair) you’ll struggle to find shimano brakes for that budget.

Ok, thanks for the tips, I’ll try this when oil gets here

Awesome, thanks for the reassurance!

Bumping to make this show in the main forum

Sorry if unhelpful but if it’s new with receipts I’d be looking at warranty. Not great if they’re gonna make you wait for a replacement though

Thanks!

What difference would not screwing out the free stroke adjuster make to Marshy’s method in terms of removing wandering bite point? My MT501 levers don’t have them.

I studied in Belfast and was posting bikes to/from Bristol up until a couple of years ago – always went with parcelforce and never had any issues – wrap bike up well with bubble wrap in the box and you’ll be fine

No it was a 100mm shell if I remember correctly so an even longer spacer in the middle, but the theories the same, the only thing that differs between BBS of different lengths taking 24mm spindles is the plastic sleeve in between the cups.

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/gears-drivetrain-and-cables/truvativ-bottom-bracket-gxp-team-cups-english-907642.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=xxrpta&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:868555867|agid:49387669572|tid:aud-297219197969:pla-330673605721|crid:203456299116|nw:g|rnd:16613427846092903228|dvc:m|adp:|mt:|loc:9046363&gclid=CjwKCAjwx6WDBhBQEiwA_dP8rdKmbXXA3yiUCvbhcqKEbdyBTDUmNuy440hTAD9RBzubtX5qUTp_ARoC9EwQAvD_BwE

Top search on Google. Doesn’t specify shell length but you can reuse the old sleeve.

Yes. I’ve used fatbike ones in a 68mm shell by just reusing the middle plastic tube.

Wharncliffe was just a standard weekend, fair few about but by no means congested. Surprising considering how dry it is right now.

Well they arrived, they’re in OEM packaging, and only 1 olive and barb supplied and no yellow blocks for chopping down, but a 180-203mm post to post mount included which I didn’t think was standard?

Now just waiting for the fork to reach supplier so the rest of the bike can be built up…

The light pattern seems to change through those photos, makes me think there’s no scoring and it’s just a spotlight that’s causing it to look odd. The matte look right at the bottom of the stanchions could be a sign of worn bushings or could be nothing. Could ask for photos taken in daylight outside or you’ll have to see them in person to assess if you’re near Eastbourne.

They sent me a dispatch link and a tracking number already, so seems like they do have them

Sram butter is exactly the same thing as slick honey but half the price – quick google finds it for £10 off ebay. You can use other types of grease but Slickoleum (Sram butter/Slick Honey) is really low friction and designed specifically for this – forks probably won’t feel as plush if you use standard/normal grease. Little tub of it will last you forever and makes it easier to service forks in the future, I still think mine’s a worthy investment.

As I understand it the pull ratios on new tiagra 10 speed are the same as 11 speed above it so the new brifters won’t shift properly with your current mechs unfortunately – I’m happy to be corrected though. Might have to be an entire new group set if you’re set on the frame.

My partner’s got NX and Guide T’s on her bike, as for the NX it’s been fine so far aside from the ISIS BB being a bugger to get out when I had to reroute the dropper cable. Annoying for taking off cranks that you need a crank puller, but you can get a crank puller and an ISIS BB tool together for less than a tenner.

The brakes seem ok for her, she’s not the hardest rider and probably only weighs about 50 kilos so she’s never gonna be testing brakes to their limits. They felt crap out the box – they would pull to the bars when she got the bike but that was fixed by just pushing the pistons all the way into the calipers then pumping them back out to the discs. Now they only feel a little bit worse than my Code R/Guide RSC combo.

It does the job but you can notice it’s less refined than GX etc.

Jeeeees, all of these look amazing! Thanks for the inspiration.

Has anyone any GPX files they could throw my way of these sorts of routes? Tbh I’m interested in anything munrobiker has posted up here as it all looks insane!

Thanks for all the input

Scaredypants – it’s quite corroded unfortunately!