Sorry, I meant the 685’s! the 785 are Di2

I bought a Croix de Fer with the 505’s on. the hoods, like gonetothehills point out, are quite long and doesn’t have the commonly known ‘stop’ you can rest you hands against.
They’d have both reach and free stroke adjustment which are real nice, though I still went ahead and bought some 785 replacements which feel great!
Worth mentioning I have RS785 calipers which use the commonly available pads
my 505 are in the drawer in case I make a frankenbike with cowbell bars or sell them

The only other alternative to getting the odd bits myself is buying the complete thing to take it apart. SJS is great, mostly got it in stock, reasonable delivery time, fair prices. will buy from them again.

The best before on my Chorizo is 28.09.16. seemed fine in october and november. And honestly forgot it in december being fed up with christmas food. thank you for starting this discussion, I should eat my Chorizo 😕 😯

I got both a Genesis Croix de Fer 2016 and Cotic Roadrat mk1.
The Roadrat is very soft but also very comfy on bridle road and over potholes, 37c tyres+fender and 2×10 Tiagra flatbar(rimbrakes) but I don’t use it for longer journeys – I just don’t feel comfy enough on it, loaded or not.
The Croix de Fer is stiffer, faster and fully trust it for longer journeys. But not as forgiving(I’m okay with that though), BB is lower, 2×11 105 dropbar (hydraulic discs). You’ll get toe overlap with fenders on the Croix de Fer!
I work in a bikeshop where we have Straggler, RLT9 steel, CaadX, SuperX (no Genesis or Cotic though). My recommendation: Croix de Fer, RLT9, Straggler in that order

They do go tubeless but it’s not worth it. As DHdave write, the sidewalls are very thin.
Sure the low weight is a big plus but it won’t outlast the bitterness of going flat just as fast. I ran mine with Conti light tubes while I had them to save some weight.

Impressed you actually tried, I would have waited till march for that distance. -I only have 28km to work

not meant as an ad but I have 2 spare Sti RS505 levers, barely used, if you want a cheap replacement for your bike, write me an email.

Pedros, Unior, Lezyne Power Lever XL
Pedros/Lezyne: In the workshop it’s nice to have for those Stans Crest+Schwalbe combos and everyday bikes with tight rims+tyres
Unior: it has never let me down

planing to rebuild and true multiple wheelsets next christmas to keep me occupied. nuff said

tuboflard – Member
Singular Rooster.

Nice!

Which one?

the new frame/bike ?
not at all sure, but curious about the new Singular we see pictures of.
-You got a SS ?

FFF – Fatties Fit Fine. go nuts and use the tape if you’re unsure.
My colleague fitted some fatboy/Kojak on Wide Lightning on his Straggler

widge34
if you had the tool to take it apart then it’s an easy job but otherwise you simply can’t. from the outside it looks easy but the second part is where you need the special tool.

the pressure will equalize to 50/50, but at the wrong position

well no. it’s designed to only equalize when fully extended. That’s why there have been a recall/upgrade of the equalair spring before the new 2,0 spring module.

Maybe https://www.sprungsuspension.com is closer to you ?

Still got a Marzocchi 4X 2012 ltd. red edition fork waiting to be apart of a new build.

for now it’s been the best fork I’ve tried apart from my 2 Mrp Loop Tr forks.

This issue is travel getting less and less as I ride. I then have to stop and manually pull fork back out. Sounds like too much air getting in negative chamber.

Too much grease on the neg/pos air chamber valve. It won’t equalize to 50/50.

take it back to your LBS and let them take it apart and wipe off some of the grease. after you should get the fork setup from scratch with sag and rebound to be sure.
-I’m a Lefty mechanic at 29’er Bike Shop, denmark.

well, I’m the Dane on STW.. living 20mins by S-tog (train) outside copenhagen.
no one uses the visitcopenhagen except tourists (explains why the same 10 restuarants are crowded..) I recommend (use the google translate):
Burgers/steaks: https://cocksandcows.dk http://xoburgersandsteaks.dk http://warpigs.dk
Delicious stuff: http://torvehallernekbh.dk http://koedbyensmadogmarked.dk
Cake/café/tea: http://laurasbakery.com/torvehallerne/
Concert venue: http://vega.dk http://pumpehuset.dk
Going out: The Meatpacking District! https://www.facebook.com/JoleneBar/
Bike shops: http://29erbikeshop.dk https://www.facebook.com/benbencykler/

Oh and the phrases “Ja tak”=Yes please, “Nej tak”=No thank you. are obligated..
And you would always prefer a Tuborg over Carlsberg as a rule.

You’re screwed if an Aeropress is too much fuss, it’s the least fussy way of making proper coffee I’ve ever come across short of the Smart Cafe mug.

I have to compare it to a press containing about 5 mugs in one brewing. Otherwise I would own an Areopress already 😀

The Shimano R650 and the cheaper version are just fine.
Stock pads are Tiagra/105 class which works ok in the wet, plenty of power in the dry.

Croix de Fer owners (including myself) have the same problem.
straight 1 1/8″ steer, disc tabs (post/IS don’t care), room for 35-40c, qr/15mm axle.

Right now the only option that suits the purpose is the pricey Ritchey
http://ritcheylogic.com/wcs-carbon-disc-cross-bike-fork

@Dick Barton
I’m riding the Lezyne Super GPS MK1 and it’s been just fine. Been riding a couple of races besides the normal rides in the woods and the road.
It’s not the enhanced version but it does just fine. Takes ANT+, Bluetooth and micro-usb for charging.
I know it’s the wrong section but it’s for sale if you’re interested ?
you can email me in the acc info.
Basically need the money and my seasons ends soon(my excuse for not training)

the Torx bits T25 and T10.
T25 is normally always on the ratchet and bit screwdriver but changed whenever I need the T10 for Sram/Avid tasks. Bought 10 pieces of T25 and T10 but only got 2 left after 6 months. They don’t wear down since they get lost..

In my opinion the best ‘standard’ qr-axle is Shimano.

I’d upgrade every axle to DT Swiss RWS. no brainer, more torque at hand, never slips, it’s swiss, simple and light, it’s swiss.
If I want something fancy I’d go for Salsa as the anodizing is way better and the shape and ergonomics nicer when applying force.

British Columbia for sure, but it had to include BC bike race.
If europe, I would say the alps, Italy, roadtrip

we’re all cyclists so get the tattoo somewhere you won’t scratch it when crashing. I got a tattoo just above my ankle/sock line and nothing has touched it yet. The shoulder is known to take the hit you don’t reach out with your hands first

just a normal keyring, then a attach a magnet with a wire – baam, they won’t make a noise (unless you got those cheap alloy keys)

my colleague fitted 29×2.1 tyres in a Surly Straggler on AC Wide lightning. (Fatties Fit Fine). it did rub a bit of paint off on occasions though

Fill your backpack with the excuse of always carrying tubes, pumps and tools for others.
When they wait for you at the destination you being late just say you took a poo half way.

I was tempted to buy a pair of fancy Oakley(still am) but knowing I would scratch or loose them that thing was of the table. (pun not intended)
I bought a pair of Endura Gabbro glasses http://www.endurasport.com/products/?ProductID=326&InitCode=E1012BK
Fits me fine, doesn’t feel or look like cheap plastic and comes with a hard case – I haven’t lost them yet and not replacing them any time soon.

I bought this a few years ago to commute over the winter. got it for sale ever since because the colour is..like that. It hasn’t gotten stolen, obviously, in the 3 years I’ve used it in copenhagen.
Thomson stem, nice Tiagra 10s groupset, just got a new crankset, anti-puncture tyres – the thieves knows it but it is brown..

Haven’t managed to scratch/chip the paint to have an excuse to paint it over – Cotic simply use a good paint.

Shimano replacements for newer(not the new 11s though) SLX/XT + spacers from the hardware store if needed. they got loctite, plenty strong, bite to the chainring when tightened.
Dot NOT buy alloy chainring bolts, they crack, goes loose, rip the hex/torx and the edges/threads.
-Mechanic

I once had to let go of my metal tyrelevers in the security. (simply forgot to empty my everyday messenger bag when packing at home).
I wouldn’t take the chance with clipless shoes though, the chance of having to walk barefoot because the staff has a bad day.

I have used an Evoc cc 10L the last few years. 2L bladder included.
I carry the following in the front room:
spare 29″ tube, Lezyne medium HV pump, 4 zipties, tyrelevers, Lezyne multitool, small roll of 3M electric tape, 3 chain links+2KMC quick links, small plastic bag, tiny hand sanitiser gel, 2 bars, 1 gel, keys, wallet.
The top room:
smartphone in plastic bag+Lezyne GPS when not in use.
The main room:
bladder, extra jersey or windproof l/s jersey, emergency rainjacket.

I find my bag on the small side and have to fold the jersey the right way to make it fit. Would like a bigger so I can bring a first aid kit, not having to fold the jersey and maybe carry a thicker layer or a pair of G-form(thin) kneepads.
I’ve looked into the Mavic Crossmax 15L with 3L bladder. just my thoughts

my mate is even mixing SLX levers with Zee calipers. – go for it !
(he then sold the Zee levers with the old SLX calipers with old bike)

I was in the same place 3 months back. Croix de Fer, Niner RLT or RLT Reynolds steel.
Ended up with the heavier Croix de Fer. huge amount of eyelets for racks and mudguards, good tyre clearance(45mm fenders, 35c stock tyres atm and room to fit 37c/40c no problem), and nice colour scheme without asking to get stolen when you’re in for a coffee. And it rides amazing!
Despite working in a bikeshop with Niner RLT, Niner BSB, Santa Cruz Stigmata, Surly Straggler and several Cannondale and Scott CX bikes I’ve gone for a Genesis.

after being a mechanic at several 12h races and everyday repairs it has shown me that the threaded BSA BB is still the easiest/fastest to replace full stop.
replacing bearings or cups being pressed in a BB shell(both raw carbon and alu) is quite a different matter.
The most reliable pressfit ‘solution’ is Shimano products. the second place goes to BB30 with the bearings pressed directly in the BB shell. everything else is a bummer to work with(epoxy-fastened, plastic cups, GXP, multiple odd spacers, internal routing…!)

I got the 820 Saints. bought secondhand but new of a bike but needed to shorten the hoses.
I followed the dealer manual on Shimano Techdocs to bleeding them and they felt great after my second ride in the woods(bedding them in).
this guy roughly shows the way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1WT5EkJ9Qs
I got minimal lever throw even after riding the Beskidy race.

my mate got Zee calipers+SLX levers and his are quite fast to bleed, not sure if the combination does something though.

Had my Alpine back in 2012-2014. lovely bike, amazing fast descents I’ve taken on it and a 24h race too.
Now converted to 29″ hardtail though.

Right now I own a Niner Ros9 (not the plus) but I have been through the process of choosing a new frame and the headache.
Niner Sir9, Singular Swift/Rooster, Ritchey P29, TransAM 29(because I could get 40% off).
The Stanton bikes were off the table early as the weldings, cable mounts and finish wasn’t near Singular and Niner.
Check the Sir9 out.

cappuccino coloured(read brown) Roadrat. not fancy with the colour but super comfortable on asphalt and gravel.
been upgraded over time and now fitted with Hartje Otis tires and full fenders for asphalt commuting. (for sale)

Niner Sir9
in that way you can keep the Rebas.
my colleague has one and has never been happier(setup with a Lefty/Lauf/Travers Prong fork depending on the mood). I was on the verge to buy a frame myself!
Niner just changed the colour scheme to gray but you might be able to get a 2015 version in red, green-yellow or white.