I’m also going to eurobike but don’t have anywhere to sleep. Have you found any solutions ?

go for Deore, much better compared to Acera.
not sure about the bolts on the Acera

Went from a 50t+34t setup on my Croix de Fer to 46t+36t, same chain length.
When it’s a 1x setup I would take out 1-2links depending on the current length of chain and cage..

Continental too.
Which rims and tape do you have ?
I’ve found the ideal tape amount to be:
Orange Seal: 2-3 layers
Stans: 1, 2 at a stretch as it’s so expensive
Gorillatape: 1-2 layers
DT Swiss: 2-3 layers

One thing in the jamming when getting it on/off but if the grooves get long enough the loose cogs can move around resulting in terrible noise and in the end it’ll rip it through. I’ve seen it both on DT Swiss and Hope alloy.
The steel will solve this 8/10 times.

https://goo.gl/photos/r5mNxYfY97FnpgeYA
When strapping the drybags to the rack and 2 extra straps at each end it becomes a decent setup.
Also used a Wolftooth B-rad 2-slot for the bottle cage but have to tinker a bit more with the setup.

my colleague confirmed, Fox shocks and forks do not have the same pull ratio, hence the configuration of the upper and lower plate of the Twinloc.
The best solution is to talk with a scott dealer and get them to order the right spare remote.

Panaracer Gravel King

been out riding the last 2 weekends with a buddy who’s got those, punctured twice and quite noisy ? nonetheless he likes the grip and roll. -I’m not impressed though

Clement 700c X’plor USH and MSO

I was riding the USH on those very same rides. Because of the centerline of the USH it rolls great on straights but can lack grip on high speed bends/curves(20+mph), off chamber. not a puncture yet(60tpi). I’d have a MSO in the shed I might fit on the front.

The twinloc is definitely the best lock out lever I’ve used by a long way.

yes!, forgot it was called twinloc, thank you ! 😀

Lenzyne Super GPS is great!
Does that one have any mapping?

Nope. Just tracking your ride.
I have the Year 9 and not the new Year 10 Enhanced Super GPS but still no mapping as such

Pro riders use a gripshift or trigger as they have the right leverage.
IMO the best remote I’ve tried is the Syncros 3-position(open-trail-lock) remote they fit on Scott fullys. Any Scott dealer can order a spare for you. They’re £45-60 RRP last time I checked.
-If you’re totally out of luck with the Syncros, drop me a email.

IMO the Fox CTD remote is utter sh*t.
Sram triggers are easier to mod than Shimano but remember the pull ratio is different.

Having read the OP.. still, carrying 6 AAs shouldn’t be an issue

I travel with a smartphone, ipod and at times a tablet. So carrying 2 powerbanks (4000mAh & 10000mAh) in hand luggage seems reasonable. never been stopped.

In late June I’ll be riding from Oslo to Copenhagen, ~780km.
I’ll be using a pannier rack with 3x Alpkit Airlock Dual 13L strapped to it.
In addition I’ll use a Fuel Pod M, Stem Cell and borrow a Possum-like tangle bag. Without the borrowed Possum I have 40L. -Still unsure if a handlebar bag is needed though.
I’ll report back after the trip with pictures

If you have a gearshifter for front mech in the man cave try taking it apart, remove the index plate and put it back together for your dropper.
It’s bulky but it works. The shifter will not work with front mech after this.

we use these in the basement of the shop for customers with long term repairs and demo bikes.
2,5″ and carbon wheels no problem, I’ even bought 4 myself
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/dk/en/bbb-parking-hook-storage-hook-btl26/rp-prod60754

When you’re experienced, taping the bars should be a 15mins job you can do just before going out for a sunday ride with mates with fresh tape.
I usually buy £12-18 tape and change more often.

-from the bottom
-don’t stretch it much if it’s gel/silicone (the comfort is gone if stretched)
-wrap closer in the drops and just after the shifters (more comfort)
-figure of 8 around the shifters (bin the small piece)
-stop it when the bar tapers to 31,8mm –> electrical tape.
combine these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCD_LZRu_ZY

Try get a CNC machined hanger next time, that won’t bend. (A consequence to this is sharper gear shifting and eventually the mech taking the beating if the hanger doesn’t crack).

as mentioned multiple times; right type of mech for the cassette(GS, SGS, GoatLink)? chain length vs. chain growth? has the hanger been replaced or just bent back each time ?

Is this for equipping the man-cave ?
If you buy a kit in a nice box and end up hanging the tools on the wall at your worktable then the nice box won’t be in use anyway. The box won’t have space for when you buy extra tools.
Advice: buy tools individually – A decent set of hex keys(no ball end), torx set, BB & cassette tool for ½” ratchet, rotor straightener etc.
It might not be cheapest but you get to choose the tools.
Unior, Wera, X-tools, Pedros, Shimano, Sram is the brands I often choose.

the Pro gel tape is okay, if you don’t stretch you can re-wrap.
Cannondale makes some decent gel tape too, will try that next.

Bike messengers carry their D-lock on their bags or in their belt.

the frame-bracket let the lock rattle A LOT, but extra o-rings between the lock and the U might do the trick ?

I’ve found RaceFace chainrings to wear down quicker than any other due to the ‘toothpick’ design..
If you go Shimano (M7000/M8000) cranks choose the M7000 chainring as they should be more durable. HT2 BBs are cheap these days.

A customer left the shop after a repair and got the whole thing in the car with only front wheel off. You’ll be fine

– Specialized Epic 29″ large, in a Toyota Aygo.
not sure if the bike needed a repair after though.

on tv. -but really, do you wanna see bridleway CX or pavé sprint ?

Last friday I was fitting a new set of disc brakes on my townbike.
Cut the hose at the lever to fit the hose through the guides, fitted olive&insert and on to the lever and was about to bleed the brake when I realised I haven’t even shorten the hose. Did that twice with front and rear.

When the sales guy decided to mess with us. edit: sorry that is ocd, but still!

M7000, M8000, M9000, M820, M980, M985 run a different hose, hence the bigger insert & olive.
I ran a M666 lever with M665 caliper with the small insert – it end up leaking from the reservoir.
The point: use the new insert & olive and you should be fine with newer style brakes

drain pipe in plastic.
I have ParkTool, Unior and Pedros at hand but they all mark the crownrace -square steel to tapered alloy..

otherwise drill a hole in a piece of wood and use it with a hammer.

I’ve changed levers before and might do it again.
The handlebar clamp on the SLX M665 cracked and had a huge dead lever throw, changed to M666 levers (same looks as M675). Used them until the bike was split up.
I still have the brakes in the shed but the M666 levers are leaking between the cover and the base. -I have new M8000 levers ready to replace them. Couldn’t be bothered to warranty them

I went down to i19mm for a cheap hardtail build with 2.2 tyres and that felt squirmy compared to my other bikes with i29mm rims with 2.4 – I wouldn’t dare to put a knard or chronicle on a Crest or Arch rim, maybe only for fun.

Last week I set my spare wheel, Halo Vapour 35 (i30mm), up with a spare Conti Cyclocross 35mm tyre just for fun and to please my curiosity. The tyre ended up measuring 37mm 😕 😯

I found this like an hour ago as I was searching for a rack myself for the Croix de Fer.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/carriers-racks/black-mpart-fmp-mountain-front-rack/
It seems to be a bit overbuilt for the purpose of providing a ‘platform’ for your drybags etc.

I got the mk1 Super GPS, not enchanced. No navigation unless the latest update will change that.
Be aware that the Lezyne mounts are a tat pricey compared to the Garmin mounts available.

relating to the topic; will a wider non-flared drop, ex. 46cm, substitute a narrower 44cm cowbell ?
is the flare just superior ?

Half the staff at one workplace get precooked meals from the canteen, everyone get the same meal, ex. always fish on wednesday. The other half bring something from home.
As I bring whatever I have in the fridge I would be annoyed if someone was being nosey everyday on what I had for lunch.
-the only acceptable comment is on the fish as the canteen either over or under cook it.
‘How’s the fish Erik?’ ‘Good thing you had wednesday off, the fish wasn’t worth it’

Get a Shimano SLX/XT HT2 BB and get a converter for GXP from Sram, in that way you get a good BB and still able to run your GXP crankset.
The GXP system itself isn’t all that great, a colleague changed GXP BB every third month (ended up selling the whole bike in november)

on the topic; if a lbs fitted the BB try make a warranty claim, if you fitted yourself the chances are they claim you fitted it wrong.

He might have fitted the Woltfooth mtb-road tanpan somewhere.

watch out for mud clearance with 2.4″ 2.3″ tires.
edit: if it’s boost then it might be solved.

I’m amazed that you’ve had your Reverb untouched in 2+ years considering the faulty percentage of Reverbs on the market..

Have you tried riding it with the clamp slackened? might start to ease it on its way?

This might be a solution, it works on pedals and crankarms. -think brakebumps+not standing up/lowering post.

ended up buying a eTrex 35 today.
Does anybody make a decent/usable mount for it ?
-an eTrex-to-GoPro-fitting would be great as GoPro mounts are highly available. K-edge needs to step up their game

Working in a bikeshop as well and have a big demo fleet. I got M820 and M675 on my own bikes (+ M8000 levers with M665 calipers)
From what I’ve experienced these are my suggestions, in that order:
Hope(depending on money), M820/M980/M9000/M9020, Zee/Guide RS, SLX/M8000/Level TL
What to avoid imo:
M785, Magura, Formula, Avid(Sram brakes are different!), XX