You’ve got Superstar rotors & pads & wondering why they’re not right? 🙄

Very family friendly, loads of fire roads, blue trails etc.
The red route is flat & relatively tame, as it’s not the most mountainous area you’ll ever visit, but they’ve done well with whats there.
Some really good fun tight & twisty bits off piste if you know where to look.
Best on a proper xc bike if you’ve got one or a cx bike, no point taking a big trail bike.

They’ll need to chase it, or if it’s the forks I’m thinking of, the dealer can log into the B2B account & check progress & tell you instantly.

B screw is my bet, adjust it so the mech is as close the cassette as is physically possible-it’s something I see a lot of & experienced on my own bike until I worked out what was causing it!

Sadly quite common on XT’s of a certain age, the later ones were much better.
Warranty replacement is the usual fix.

Shropshire Hills?
Stunning countryside, some amazing proper ale (if you’re into that sort of thing)
Happy to show you a route or two if that helps?
Pretty quiet around here as well now the schools have gone back

How many other dropper posts can be fully stripped & rebuilt same day?
Seal kit £9.99 + a bit of time & it’s as good if not better than new.
Yes they have their issues, but show me a dropper that doesn’t & it’s the only one that can be brought back from the dead without having to send it back as it’s not a factory sealed cartridge.
There isn’t another post out there that I’d put on my own bike.

I’d say it’s a bit of a marmite bike, like most Orange’s can be, but personally I love it.
Wasn’t something I’d even given a second thought until I spent some time on it making the film & when I’m looking at my next trail bike, I’ll seriously consider one.
This is the film I mention:

Yes you’ll need a crank puller-about the only one still on modern bikes that do!

Novatec if you’re after something cheaper? I’m just sorting mine out now for next weekend

Circlip out, knock bearing out, spacer will fall out then see if the 2nd bearing has a circlip or not ( it’s getting a bit hazy with the wine this evening..)

More brute force required. Once the end caps & circlip are off, there’s nothing holding it on.
Have you got a spare axel for it, as it’ll most likely be snapped when you get it out anyway!

What year 36’s? As the 14 onwards travel reducing does reduce A-C

If you buy a double chainset, you won’t need extra bolts, as those supplied are single ring for the outer anyway-the inner is a different BCD & has separate bolts.
However, a triple generally gives a slightly better chain line.

We charge £40 + basic seal kit (£6.99) IF thats all it needs.
Depends how much work its had, if its been serviced before & what’s actually happened once you open it up.
Not rocket science to do, but you do need to know how to set the IFP correctly or it won’t work.

LBS/J-Tech/Sram Tech should all be able to sort it, but might not be cheap if it needs the new top collar as well if its worn.
Might end up cheaper buying a new one

I’ve heard not, as they’re not the same construction, but I probably would because i’m a born worrier & want my investment to last!

Dugast or FMB if you want the best performance ( I personally prefer the FMB feel) but not as a training/general riding tub-they’re a bit too fragile for that IMO.
Seal them as others have mentioned, or run a 2nd set of wheels with Clinchers-I’ve got Challenge Grifo’s for playing on budget wheels & spares at races.
Don’t discount the likes of Schwalbe, they’re a bit more solid & you don’t have to treat the sidewalls, or Vitoria’s as you can pick them up really cheap.
Glue every time & plenty of layers (I use 3 on the rim, 2 on the tub) tape alone won’t be enough to stop a cx tub rolling in a race at low pressures.

I must have been asleep, but what’s Gnarmac?

I’m assuming it’s some crap STW special/latest craze word for a CX bike being used amazingly ‘off road’ i.e. what it’s designed for..

Not a photo, but a little video

You don’t bleed the post with the syringes, only the hose & remote.

West Mids league for me along with a few Notts & Derby when I go visiting my parents & the odd NT round.
First year for me I’ll be running a matching pair of bikes-just hope I can do the kit justice!

Try cleaning & lubricating the cam on the skewer, if that fails, then buy a better quality clamp.

The Golfie. You don’t need to know any more!

I’ve just bought a set of Novatec CXD & they look great for the cash to be fair.
Light, easy to work on & from what I’ve heard reliable, but this season will tell, although I know the hubs are great going by last season.
I’ve built Pro2’s on Stans & Open Pro’s with excellent reliability too however, just a touch heavier.
Don’t discount Pacenti rims either-really nice to build with & seem nice & stiff.

I’d personally run a small hydration pack, much easier & solves all your problems.
The likes of the new Shimano ones barely move either.

Listen to Mr Invisi (I was with him this morning)
He knows his stuff & doesn’t want the kit to look crap-if he’s says Matte, go for Matte.

I could tell you, as I’m in the film, but I won’t.
That is all 😉

Novatec for me too-I ran a set all last season & finally killed the bearings after 17 races & jet washed after every one.
I’ve ordered a set of the CXD wheels for my 2nd bike yesterday with the same hubs.

Try winding it out a few turns, then pump the lever with the funnel attached, as it can quite often trap some air.
Failing that, I’m out of ideas as they’re usually really easy & straight forward to bleed.
It could be that one of the skirt seals has failed in the master cylinder, in which case they’re not officially repairable, so it’s new lever time (unless you’ve got a spare lever to scavenge the bits from)

I’m a fan, just don’t post a huge amount @bikeshopdave

Did you pump the lever with the funnel attached & wind out the free stroke adjuster?

Rapha? Mine’s shallower than some of my others, only cost £10 too, so the only piece of Rapha I own!

To throw another one into the mix, we use the Wheepro spoke calc at work when we’re not doing it manually & find that excellent.
You’ll also find that not all spokes are equal-DT’s usually come up slightly short on the claimed length (aournd .5mm) whereas Halo are often slightly long for the same given length-just something to consider if you can’t get the exact sizes you’re after, or how critical exact lengths are to you.

It’s not just WTB, there’s a tyre supply issue industry wide at the moment 🙁

Follow this map & you’ll have some fun
http://www.mtb-shropshire.co.uk/trails/
It includes the one ‘down from the gliding club’ (Minton Batch)

36’s? If you want stiffer, then there isn’t really anything much better .

Talk to them, send it back-get it fixed very cheaply/free, refit & carry on riding.

If you’re doing it properly, nipple length doesn’t really affect the spoke length, as you’d try & get the spoken to correct point in correlation to the ERD of the rim, so the spoke will come halfway through the slot at the top of the nipple for maximum support.
*edit*
I’d double check the calcs if you can, there’s usually around a 2mm difference in rear lengths unless it’s crazy flange diameters or it’s an offset rim.

But with Di2, 10 can be programmed to run 11 & XTR Di2 will run off a road shifter, so I don’t see why an 11 speed mech can’t run 10. Although I haven’t tried that yet as haven’t had chance.